iPad 2 Wi-Fi Power/Mute/Volume Buttons Cable Replacement

Archived Guide

Archived Guide

This guide is retained solely for historical purposes. Use the updated version of the guide to perform your repair.

Member-Contributed Guide

Member-Contributed Guide

An awesome member of our community made this guide. It is not managed by iFixit staff.

Replace the cable for the power, mute, and volume up/down buttons on your iPad.

This guide has been updated by iFixit staff. See the official guide here.

Use this guide to replace a broken cable for the power, mute, and volume up/down buttons on the right side of the iPad 2.

This is a very difficult repair. To gain access to this cable, you must first remove the front panel, LCD, and the rear camera.

Edit Step 1 iOpener Heating  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 iOpener Heating  ¶ 

  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Edit Step 4 Front Panel  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4 Front Panel  ¶ 

  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Again, as you may find yourself working with broken glass during this procedure, we strongly recommend wearing safety glasses for protection from flying shards.

  • Lay the iOpener flat on the right edge of the iPad, smoothing it out so that there is good contact between the surface of the iPad and the iOpener.

  • Let the bag sit on the iPad for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the front panel.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • There is a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad, approximately 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top of the iPad. You are going to exploit this weakness.

  • Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.

  • It may require some force to get the wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Work patiently and carefully, wiggling the plastic opening tool back and forth as necessary.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Make sure you place the tool in the proper spot—between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Keeping the tip of the plastic opening tool wedged between the front glass and plastic bezel, slide a plastic opening pick in the gap, right next to the plastic opening tool.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the plastic opening tool from the iPad, and push the opening pick further underneath the front glass to a depth of ~0.5 inches.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • While you work on releasing the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, reheat the iOpener, and replace it on the bottom edge of the iPad.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • While the bottom edge is being heated by the iOpener, begin releasing the adhesive from the right edge of the iPad.

  • Slide the opening pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  • The adhesive is very strong, and some serious force may be required. Work carefully.

  • If you can see the tip of the opening pick underneath the front glass, pull the pick out just a little bit. While using the opening pick this deep won't damage anything, it may get adhesive residue all over the LCD.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • It may be necessary to move the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad as you release the adhesive. This depends on how long the iPad has been able to cool while you were working on it.

  • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Before removing the first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, insert a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from re-adhering.

  • Re-heat the iOpener, and move it to the top edge of the iPad.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • The next few steps require extreme caution.

  • The Wi-Fi antenna is attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad via screws and a cable. Because of the orientation of the Wi-Fi antenna, it is imperative to proceed with caution otherwise irreversible damage to the Wi-Fi antenna may result.

  • You will have to release the adhesive securing the antenna to the front panel without damaging the delicate parts attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow the next steps carefully.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.

  • Do not slide the pick further than the bottom right corner. You may damage the Wi-Fi antenna by doing so.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • This step requires you to move the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is very close to the corner and is easily severed if the adhesive is released improperly.

  • Do not completely remove the pick from under the front glass, but pull it out just a little bit so that ~1/8" of the tip is still under the front glass.

  • Slide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna (approximately 3" from the right edge, or right next to the home button) re-insert the opening pick to its full depth.

  • Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

    • The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Continue releasing the adhesive along the bottom of the iPad, pulling the opening pick out far enough to go around the home button, and re-inserting it once the pick is past the home button.

  • If the adhesive has cooled too much along the bottom edge, reheat the iOpener to warm the adhesive where you are working.

  • Do not heat the iOpener more than a minute at a time, and always allow at least two minutes before reheating it.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Continue releasing the adhesive all the way along the bottom edge of the iPad.

  • Leave the opening pick wedged underneath the front glass near the home button.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Reheat the iOpener in the microwave and set it on the left edge of the iPad to start warming the adhesive in that section.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.

  • The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.

  • If the adhesive has cooled too much, replace the iOpener along the top edge and continue working. If the iOpener has cooled too much, reheat it.

  • If the opening pick is getting stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick as shown in step 8.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Continue releasing the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and slide the opening pick around the top left corner.

  • If the adhesive is warm enough, remove the iOpener from the iPad for convenience. However, if the adhesive is still quite sticky, re-heat the iOpener and lay it on the left edge while you work.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  • The digitizer cable is located approximately 2" from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~2.25" from the bottom of the iPad.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Using the opening pick that is still underneath the bottom edge of the iPad, release the adhesive along the bottom left corner.

  • The bottom of the digitizer cable is only ~1" from the bottom of the iPad. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not sever this cable.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Using one of the opening picks, pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad and grab it with your fingers.

  • Some of the adhesive along the perimeter of the iPad may have stuck back down again. If this is the case, slide a pick underneath the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck and "cut" the adhesive.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Holding the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, rotate the front glass away from the iPad.

  • Be careful of any adhesive that may still be attached, and use an opening pick to cut any adhesive that may still be holding the front panel down.

Edit Step 27 LCD  ¶ 

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Edit Step 27 LCD  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and rotate it out of the rear case.

  • Lay the LCD on the front panel as seen in the second picture.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the metal retaining clip securing the display data cable to its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Pull the display data cable out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not lift upward on the display data cable connector as you disconnect it.

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Remove the LCD assembly from the iPad 2.

Edit Step 32 Rear Facing Camera  ¶ 

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Edit Step 32 Rear Facing Camera  ¶ 

  • Carefully peel the rubber cover off the metal camera retainer and remove it from the iPad 2.

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 3.3 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips screw

  • Lift the metal retainer clip straight up from its recess in the rear panel.

  • Be sure the small thermal pad is attached to the metal retaining clip as seen in the third picture when replacing the rear facing camera.

Edit Step 34  ¶ 

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Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the control board.

  • Remove the rear facing camera.

Edit Step 35 Power/Mute/Volume Buttons Cable  ¶ 

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Edit Step 35 Power/Mute/Volume Buttons Cable  ¶ 

  • Once the LCD panel and rear camera are removed, you can begin removing the Power, Mute, Volume cable (hereafter called the PMV cable for short).

  • The PMV cable starts near the end of the control board cable that runs between two of the battery units, and runs in a complicated path along the side and corner of the iPad. (see photos 1 and 2)

  • The end of the PMV cable is wrapped in tape. Begin by removing this tape to expose the silver rectangular connector on the end of the cable. (see photo 3)

  • Use a plastic opening tool or small screwdriver to lift free the rectangular connector.

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

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Edit Step 36  ¶ 

  • Now you must disassemble the side switches.

  • Remove the 2.1 mm Phillips screw from the volume switch mechanism.

  • Remove the two 5.0 mm Phillips screws from the mute slider mechanism.

  • If you have not already removed the rear camera, do so now.

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

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Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 2.5 mm Phillips screws from the back of the power switch mechanism.

  • You can then push in on the power switch (on the exterior of the iPad) to push the mechanism's internal metal plate loose.

  • You can then peel the PMV cable free from the iPad's case, working backwards from the power switch towards the mute switch.

  • Lift free the small metal frame piece supporting the mute and volume switches.

  • Note: The photo shows the mute and volume switch frame being removed before the rear camera and power switch; this is possible but it's probably best to start with the power switch first.

Edit Step 38  ¶ 

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Edit Step 38  ¶ 

  • The PMV cable itself is a complicated piece with three integrated buttons and a switch slider.

  • You will need to carefully peel off the old cable free from the ipad frame and the two metal supports (one for the power switch, one for the mute and volume switches).

  • Note that each button is held in place with a tiny bit of adhesive. Use a plastic opening tool or small screwdriver to lift them free.

Edit Step 39  ¶ 

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Edit Step 39  ¶ 

  • Now assemble the replacement PMV cable to the two metal brackets.

  • Each button has on its underside two tiny black plastic pegs which fit into holes in the metal frames, to ensure the proper fit. Make sure to line these up properly when attaching the cable to the metal frames. The reassembled cable should look as shown in the figures.

  • Install the new cable working from the power switch back towards the mute and volume switches and then to the cable connector, snaking the PMV cable along its complicated path.

  • The replacement part should have adhesive patches to hold the cable in place.

  • Attaching the rectangular cable connector is tricky as there is little clearance from the edge of the iPad case. It may be helpful to use a plastic opening tool to push it gently until it snaps into place.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415 device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Heat Gun

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

iFixit Opening Picks set of 6

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Successfully completed this guide. Thanks.

musstafaa, · Reply

Hi, we have an iPad 2 in for repair and needs a new power button assembly. Thing is the ribbon is different from a standard iPad 2. There are subtle differences in the inside too. It is definitely a genuine iPad, and has same model numbers. Anyone come across this before?

iPhoneSurgery, · Reply

Chris, I have the same problem with power ribbon cable it's not the one everyone is selling, did you manage to find a source who sold the correct part?

David,

Completed this guide thank you. Just want to point out that there are two cables for the iPad 2, making sure that you have the right one is very important. Be very careful around the camera area of the iPad too this is very tricky and there are no pictures of this part, wish I had done some now to upload for others, but I'm sure that I'll have another to do before to long and I will then. One main tip... Don't stick anything down till you've got everything secure as removing the the tape is very tricky once stuck and you don't want to be replacing this again...

Roberto Enrieu, · Reply

Beware of fake versions of this cable 821-1151-A from many suppliers. The Hall Effect magnetic switch will then not work because the printed circuit traces on the cable are incorrect. The fake cable can be identified by an ohmmeter showing the two contacts for the Hall chip farthest from the cable edge to be shorted together.

geoffrey, · Reply

Another way of identifying a fake cable is to examine the rectangular piece of the cable where the Hall chip is positioned; a properly working cable will have a total of 4 printed circuit traces visible (3 from the Hall chip and 1 from the tiny capacitor) but only 3 (2 from the Hall chip and 1 from the capacitor) on the fake.

geoffrey,

I'm sorry, but I started laughing uncontrollably at this point! It's like something out of a Conan or Fallon sketch for the all but non sequitur of microwave use, but it's clearly what needs to be done for the glue. I came from a 2007 MBP, and personally replaced the battery multiple times (one step). I was curious about how it was done with my new 2014 model. 32 steps might as well be a punch line...

JeffH, · Reply

Hey cut them some slack. There are some really stupid people out there and we don't want some one to end up with their dick caught in the ceiling fan.

logitechtaco,

It is ver likely that the glass you are trying to replace is broken, and this is tempered glass therefore it will chatter in many small pieces while you are working on it. Take this safety advice very seriously and protect your eyes!!! The glass pieces fly everywhere. AGAIN: PROTECT YOUR EYES!!!! BE SAFE!!!

McGiord, · Reply

This last statement cannot be underemphasized! I got two shards of very fine glass into my right eye, luckily got them out right away, before reaching for the safety goggles! Later on, I removed them again because working w/ the small parts was easier. Protect your eyes, people!

Lou Bomski,

I covered the screen in clear packing tape to control glass particles.

I placed the ipad outside in direct afternoon sunlight for an hour and all of the adhesive was softened quite well.....the screen was off in just a few minutes !

John, · Reply

This is a very good idea John, I wish I'd seen this comment before I spent hours picking tiny bits of glass off the glue!

Tom Scott,

I had some issues after replacing this cable.

Once I had it in and back together only the down volume was working, and shortly after the gyro gave out.

I ended up going to where the new cable connects to the board, removing it, then replacing it as gently as possible. Not too firm.

I also removed a foam spacer in that area because it was pushed out over the gyro board.

Now I'm back to full functionality!

clatekeen, · Reply

Badly broken screen, taped and warmed about 15 minutes on heating pad set on high. Perfect, gentle, overall warming! Mark the front with Sharpie, ie WiFi, cable, etc. Used thin metal iSes... type tool and guitar pics. BUY NEW Plastic bezel!!! So super cheap. Rewarm on heating pad as necessary. Compressed air helpful to blow away tiny glass bits. Wear glasses! Take breaks! This is easy if you warm carefully and are patient!

Max, · Reply

there is the power flex cable near the top right side of the screen. It could be damaged is not careful.

ChiangFeng Li, · Reply

Yes, I severed this one on my first attempt. Might note that you want to start prying open below the sound controls. Additionally I found that a razor was helpful in getting the first pic into the device. Obviously you want to be careful as a razor could cause some serious damage, but I just used the tip of the metal to get some space to fit a pick.

Nick Dresang, · Reply

Maybe I was doing it wrong, but the plastic opening tool I was using kept bending before it was prying anything apart. Therefore I suggest using either a metal spudger or a razor blade to make the very first opening but being VERY careful. My assistant/wife later scratched the LCD going overboard with the metal tools.

Logan Kennedy, · Reply

There is a way of making the Wifi/Bluetooth Antenna replacement much easier. If you have a steady hand and a soldering iron simply desolder the connecting cable from the bottom of the antenna and solder it back onto the new antenna. This means there is no need to dismantle the iPad and the repair is much faster. Hope this helps :-)

Richard, · Reply

The process was pretty straightforward, you do need to be careful in a few spots (like the wifi antenna in the lower right) but overall I found it to be of medium level of difficulty.

It took me 2.5hrs to slowly dismantle and replace the broken screen.

Here are some tips I learned while doing it:

- instead of plastic spudger, better to use kit knife or razor blade. I found plastic to bend and malform quite easily.

- watch out for lower right corner where wifi antenna sits, it's easy to damage it

- if you have a cracked screen, use protective goggles - i used tape to secure broken glass pieces together, but that didn't quite work and lots of glass was flying as I was prying the screen off the ipad

- opening tool you put in the microwave sold here is not worth it - didn't do that great for me. I mostly used a hair drier and was very successful melting adhesive

- tools I'd only need again to do it again - guitar picks, kit knife, phillips screwdriver, hair drier :D

Overall, I found it to be quite interesting project!

michalmotykiewicz, · Reply

Had much more success using the metal spudger versus the plastic opening tool that came with the front panel kit.

Paul Boyer, · Reply

I had success using Paddle Pop sticks instead of guitar picks. (not sure what they are called in the US). The guitar picks tended to deform and melt with the heat of my hot gun. The glue used to attach the screen is just amazingly strong! It takes a lot of patience to remove all the fragments. I have done about 6 screens now and it is a turdful job!

Jack, · Reply

Pay attention to the Power Button cable located in the upper right corner !!!

Nathan, · Reply

Successful battery change but I did sever the cord/ribbon to the power/sleep button. As my iPad had been opened before at a repair shop, I think they put adhesive over the cord as the small section was stuck underneath the LCD, barely visible. So be careful not to put adhesive above that exposed ribbon/cord to the power/sleep button or the next time you open it up, it's severed.

Breadman, · Reply

It should be noted that the glass can be much more difficult to remove when it is cracked and shattered (as is usually the reason for replacement) . Depending on the location and severity of the cracks, the order and technique of removal requires modification.

I have found that putting a layer of clear packing tape over the entire screen is helpful, wether it's cracked or not. It will prevent the spraying of glass shards, should the glass break while separating the adhesive; with a broken screen, it should eliminate the risk of cutting yourself during removal, as well as hold all the pieces together. Unfortunately, it also makes the iOpener slightly less effective, so peel it back when applying it. Suction cups can also be helpful during final removal of the glass.

Having a hot air gun/pencil can be helpful in removing smaller pieces if broken glass that remain once the bulk of it is removed.

Nick V, · Reply

Just trashed an I pad... Not an electronics person. Did an iphone 5 battery with no problems was following instructions and once I hit the next step I realized I had already screwed up the screen... Moving forward tring to unhook LCD pictures are not very clear on which direction to push or pull so broke that... Now writing a review on it... Take it to a pro if you aren't certain!

rondiedonelson, · Reply

Be sure to have a replacement Bluetooth Wi-Fi antenna because it is very likely to get the cable broken at this step.

McGiord, · Reply

Be extremely careful and patient at this step. Proceed slowly with only the tip ( 1/16th in. - 2mm max.) of the pick. There are two tinny screws that attach the bottom of the antenna to the iPad frame. This antenna part is easly severed if the pick goes too far.

Happenned to me and had to replace the antenna.

Marc Bouchard, · Reply

I nearly broke my wifi antenna because I didn't read this whole step clearly and didn't go backwards and release the antenna from the front panel. Admittedly, this is my own fault but I've edited the step to make this point more clear.

Logan Kennedy, · Reply

My screen was way too shattered for me to be able to use the screen instructions as suggested, so I followed the general principal but ignored the order around, because that simply wouldn't have worked...and destroyed the antenna.

Maybe step one should be "BE CAREFUL IN THIS CORNER OR YOU WILL BREAK THE ANTENNA!" A diagram highlighting where all the cables (antenna, digitiser, volume, toggle switch) lie with the screen still attached would be helpful too.

HRB, · Reply

I Broke my antenna like many others. It is glued to the glass and has 1mm thick foam backing that is also glued to the inner case. Then there is a tiny grounding connector screwed at the lower edge of the case. Once you can get things loosened up around this antenna, you will need to detach this antenna from the glass. Work at it with your picks or spudger until you get it free, if you do not get it to release from the glass you will break the grounding ribbon. I bought a cheap aftermarket antenna on amazon for $3. turns out it has a bad cable coming from it. I was able to unsolder the cable from the one I broke and solder it to the new antenna.

chrisnewitt, · Reply

This BEGS for an Archer "Just The Tip" reference.

Christian, · Reply

Be extremely cautious on this step! I did it wrong and my antenna went to !@#$.

Lars Lien Ankile, · Reply

This should include details about the Home Button Ribbon Cable. Unlike an iPad 3 (which doesn't have this cable) the iPad 4 has a Home Button Ribbon Cable that runs along the left side of the Home Button and is adhered to the glass. If the guitar pick is inserted too far (more than 0.5") it is possible to damage or sever this cable.

robjpete, · Reply

There is a reason this is an iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC-2560 repair guide. This guide isn't for iPad 3 or 4...

Christian,

In my case I damaged the right GSM antenna which was somehow sticked to the front panel... Be really careful as I really didn't felt that I was damaging anything...

MattLise Gaillzik, · Reply

+1 on the right 3g antenna - it is adhered to the glass and I cut right through it with the opening pick. The replacement included adhesive to re-stick it to the glass, so this is a definite feature of this antenna. This is a thin film similar to the wifi antenna, so maybe going around it at a shallow depth from the corner to the camera and then returning to the corner slightly deeper would allow you to separate the antenna from the glass without damaging it.

doog, · Reply

The second photo does not show the iPad 4's Home Button Ribbon Cable.

robjpete, · Reply

Should be right-hand corner

longg, · Reply

Be very careful when pushing the guitar pick around the corner of the power/volume buttons. The ribbon cable for these buttons may be stuck to the adhesive and break when lifting the screen or when sliding the pick along this area. I have done 4 iPad 2 repairs and at least one of the delicate components do not make it. I would recommend ordering a wi-fi/bluetooth antenna, bezel with strips, and a power/volume cable. It is nice to have a "just-in-case" part or two, they are very inexpensive. I noticed that the I tended to break one of these delicate components when the screen was shattered in the area of those components.

thetechandtutor, · Reply

Check to the right of the Home button to see if the wifi/bluetooth antenna is still stuck to the glass side or has released. If it is still stuck to the glass use the guitar pick to carefully scrape it off. If your goal is to replace the antenna, then you needn't be so careful.

jerry81, · Reply

Be very careful not to touch the LCD. It's a pain to remove smudges. One thing that might help when you need to hold it while reattaching it during reassembly: attach a small suction cup to the metal side. That way you can avoid touching the sides where your hand might slip to the LCD side.

patjmccarthy, · Reply

Do you need to use some adhesive strips to remount the plastic bezel? The bezel I ordered didn't come with any and the ones you can order only seem to have strips for mounting the glass and not the bezel.

James, · Reply

You'd better. The original bezel is glued. You can find 3mm fine/double-sided (black) tape on Amazon. I use it when I replace the bezel because they fit perfectly under the bezel. I use for all sorts of repairs on iPhones, Samsungs, etc. Such as this [one|http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GIS...]

Rany,

In order to prevent touching the LCD screen with your finger(s), I use the thin plastic food wrapper to cover it. It will temporary stick to the LCD screen and provide excellent protection from fingerprints.

Th Th, · Reply

you can use latex gloves to keep smudges and finger prints from the screen. I'm getting ready to repair mine, thanks for all the comments and tips. Btw, I wonder if a vacuum cleaner would work for removing small pieces of glass.

De Dios sept.10 2014

dediosjon, · Reply

Hi I successfully made this repair but I after finished everything just noticed I forgot to place back rubber cover from step 14, everything works on ipad, do you thing this will cause any possible issue on the future? I would not like to open ipad again as I just replaced also 3m adhesives and I think I would mess them when opening again

Francisco Romo, · Reply

Hi Jake, see the second picture attached to step 17, which has the path highlighted in red. You can click on it and select 'View Huge', which is the best closeup I took when I did this originally. Hope that helps.

Marshall in Baltimore, · Reply

Step 18:

The color code indicates that the 2 5.0 philips come out first. (red) then the single screw (orange). The are transposed in the guide.

Rory McLeod, · Reply

It would be really nice to have some close ups of this "complicated path."

jakethegamer, · Reply

I've noticed that nearly every "repair" guide on this site contains the same lie at the end: "Installation is the reverse of removal." This lie is never more apparent when you are replacing a flex cable with several bends and folds. Is there some reason everyone stops taking pictures once the bad part is removed from the device? I assume you had to actually install the new part, so some pictures of the installation process, especially with flex cables, would be appreciated.

geoff, · Reply

Let me add that I do appreciate all of the efforts of those submitting these guides. You all have saved me countless dollars in unnecessary part replacement and collateral damage to cables and the like during disassembly. Because of you nice people, I am able to readily spot poor workmanship from other shops and provide my customers with the best possible service. Kudos!

geoff, · Reply

I greatly appreciate this tutorial, however one thing really lacking was how to actually reassemble and install the new power button. Maybe I didn't see it, but the only thing I saw was a brief, vague description of how to do it, and no pictures. Except for what was lacking here, I think it was a great tutorial, and very helpful. Thank you

Andrew , · Reply

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