Installing iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415 Microphone

Step 1 Front Panel




• If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
• Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
• This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
• Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
• Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.
Step 2


Tool used on this step:
Safety Glasses
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• Again, as you may find yourself working with broken glass during this procedure, we strongly recommend wearing safety glasses for protection from flying shards.
• Lay the iOpener flat on the right edge of the iPad, smoothing it out so that there is good contact between the surface of the iPad and the iOpener.
• Let the bag sit on the iPad for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the front panel.
Step 3
• There is a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad, approximately 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top of the iPad. You are going to exploit this weakness.
• Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.
• It may require some force to get the wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Work patiently and carefully, wiggling the plastic opening tool back and forth as necessary.
Step 4
• Make sure you place the tool in the proper spot—between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.
Step 5
• Keeping the tip of the plastic opening tool wedged between the front glass and plastic bezel, slide a plastic opening pick in the gap, right next to the plastic opening tool.
Step 6
• Remove the plastic opening tool from the iPad, and push the opening pick further underneath the front glass to a depth of ~0.5 inches.
Step 7
• While you work on releasing the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, reheat the iOpener, and replace it on the bottom edge of the iPad.
Step 8
• While the bottom edge is being heated by the iOpener, begin releasing the adhesive from the right edge of the iPad.
• Slide the opening pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
• The adhesive is very strong, and some serious force may be required. Work carefully.
• If you can see the tip of the opening pick underneath the front glass, pull the pick out just a little bit. While using the opening pick this deep won't damage anything, it may get adhesive residue all over the LCD.
Step 9
• It may be necessary to move the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad as you release the adhesive. This depends on how long the iPad has been able to cool while you were working on it.
• If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
Step 10
• Before removing the first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, insert a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from re-adhering.
• Re-heat the iOpener, and move it to the top edge of the iPad.
Step 11
• The next few steps require extreme caution.
• The Wi-Fi antenna is attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad via screws and a cable. Because of the orientation of the Wi-Fi antenna, it is imperative to proceed with caution otherwise irreversible damage to the Wi-Fi antenna may result.
• You will have to release the adhesive securing the antenna to the front panel without damaging the delicate parts attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow the next steps carefully.
Step 12
• Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.
• Do not slide the pick further than the bottom right corner. You may damage the Wi-Fi antenna by doing so.
Step 13
• This step requires you to move the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is very close to the corner and is easily severed if the adhesive is released improperly.
• Do not completely remove the pick from under the front glass, but pull it out just a little bit so that ~1/8" (3 mm) of the tip is still under the front glass.
• Slide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna.
Step 14
• Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna (approximately 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button) re-insert the opening pick to its full depth.
• Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
• The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.
Step 15
• Continue releasing the adhesive along the bottom of the iPad, pulling the opening pick out far enough to go around the home button, and re-inserting it to a depth of 1/2 inch (10 mm) once the pick is past the home button.
• If the adhesive has cooled too much along the bottom edge, reheat the iOpener to warm the adhesive where you are working.
• Do not heat the iOpener more than a minute at a time, and always allow at least two minutes before reheating it.
Step 16
• Continue releasing the adhesive all the way along the bottom edge of the iPad.
• On iPad 4 models, insert the pick to a maximum depth of 1/2 inch (10 mm) in this area, to avoid damaging the home button ribbon cable.
• Leave the opening pick wedged underneath the front glass near the home button.
Step 17
• Reheat the iOpener in the microwave and set it on the left edge of the iPad to start warming the adhesive in that section.
Step 18
• Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.
• The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.
• If the adhesive has cooled too much, replace the iOpener along the top edge and continue working. If the iOpener has cooled too much, reheat it.
• If the opening pick is getting stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick as shown in step 9.
Step 19
• Continue releasing the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and slide the opening pick around the top left corner.
• If the adhesive is warm enough, remove the iOpener from the iPad for convenience. However, if the adhesive is still quite sticky, re-heat the iOpener and lay it on the left edge while you work.
Step 20
• Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is thin here due to the digitizer along the whole left side. Make sure the pick is not too deep (max 1/2 inch) 10 mm to prevent damaging the digitizer.
• The digitizer cable is located approximately 2" (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom of the iPad.
Step 21
• Using the opening pick that is still underneath the bottom edge of the iPad, release the adhesive along the bottom left corner.
• The bottom of the digitizer cable is only ~1" (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not sever this cable.
Step 22
• Using one of the opening picks, pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad and grab it with your fingers.
• Some of the adhesive along the perimeter of the iPad may have stuck back down again. If this is the case, slide a pick underneath the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck and "cut" the adhesive.
Step 23

Tool used on this step:
Microfiber Cleaning Cloths
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• Holding the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, rotate the front glass away from the iPad.
• Be careful of any adhesive that may still be attached, and use an opening pick to cut any adhesive that may still be holding the front panel down.
• During reassembly use a microfiber cloth and compressed air to clean any dust or fingerprints off the LCD before reinstalling the glass.
Step 24 LCD
• Remove the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD to the rear case.
Step 25
• The front panel ribbon cables are connected beneath the LCD. To access them, you'll need to temporarily flip the LCD over and out of the way.
• Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its display data cable will remain connected while it is rotated over.
• Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.
• Set the LCD face down on the front panel.
Step 26 Heaphone Jack & Front Camera Assembly
• Use the flat end of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable ZIF socket.
• Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
• Run a plastic opening tool underneath the headphone jack and front-facing camera cable to free it from the adhesive attaching the cable to the rear panel.
• Pull the headphone jack and front-facing camera ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
Step 27
• Remove the two 2.9 mm Phillips screws securing the headphone jack to the rear panel.
Step 28
• Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the tape and the adhesive securing the headphone jack & front camera cables to the rear panel.
Step 29
• Pull the headphone jack away from the top edge of the iPad.
• Don't try to remove the assembly just yet. The front camera is still stuck to the rear panel.
Step 30
• Lift the headphone jack & front camera cables slightly to access the microphone connector.
• Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to separate the microphone connector from its socket on the headphone jack & front camera cables.
Step 31
• Peel the front camera off the foam adhesive securing it to the rear panel.
• Remove the headphone jack & front camera assembly from the iPad.
Step 32
• Carefully remove the strip of tape covering the front camera cable connector.
Step 33
• Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front camera cable from the headphone jack cable.
Step 34 Microphone
• Peel the piece of foam up off the top of the microphone cable assembly.
Step 35
• Use a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the microphone cable assembly from its recess in the rear panel.
• Remove the microphone cable.

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Walter Galan

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