Introduction

Note: this is a complete guide for replacing a plain front panel. If you have a Front Panel Assembly replacement part, stop before removing the home button from your old front panel, and reverse the steps to install your new front panel assembly.

Image 1/2: Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

hello -

Image 1/1: Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

Image 1/1: The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.
  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

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Image 1/3: Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

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Image 1/1: Lay the iOpener flat on the right edge of the iPad, smoothing it out so that there is good contact between the surface of the iPad and the iOpener.
  • Again, as you may find yourself working with broken glass during this procedure, we strongly recommend wearing safety glasses for protection from flying shards.

  • Lay the iOpener flat on the right edge of the iPad, smoothing it out so that there is good contact between the surface of the iPad and the iOpener.

  • Let the bag sit on the iPad for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the front panel.

It is ver likely that the glass you are trying to replace is broken, and this is tempered glass therefore it will chatter in many small pieces while you are working on it. Take this safety advice very seriously and protect your eyes!!! The glass pieces fly everywhere. AGAIN: PROTECT YOUR EYES!!!! BE SAFE!!!

McGiord - Reply

This last statement cannot be underemphasized! I got two shards of very fine glass into my right eye, luckily got them out right away, before reaching for the safety goggles! Later on, I removed them again because working w/ the small parts was easier. Protect your eyes, people!

Lou Bomski -

Just use some scotch wide transparent tape and cover the broken screen BEFORE you start to taking it apart. It will hold all the shards together and nothing will fly around.

Vatevaaa -

I covered the screen in clear packing tape to control glass particles.

I placed the ipad outside in direct afternoon sunlight for an hour and all of the adhesive was softened quite well.....the screen was off in just a few minutes !

John - Reply

This is a very good idea John, I wish I'd seen this comment before I spent hours picking tiny bits of glass off the glue!

Tom Scott -

Thumbs up for this tip. I left it out in the sun for 15 min only and it worked a treat. I used a razor blade. The plastic tools are next to useless.

olafgoy -

I had some issues after replacing this cable.

Once I had it in and back together only the down volume was working, and shortly after the gyro gave out.

I ended up going to where the new cable connects to the board, removing it, then replacing it as gently as possible. Not too firm.

I also removed a foam spacer in that area because it was pushed out over the gyro board.

Now I'm back to full functionality!

clatekeen - Reply

me 2 my volumen up doesn't work and the switch sound/silent any fix?

Zadd -

Badly broken screen, taped and warmed about 15 minutes on heating pad set on high. Perfect, gentle, overall warming! Mark the front with Sharpie, ie WiFi, cable, etc. Used thin metal iSes... type tool and guitar pics. BUY NEW Plastic bezel!!! So super cheap. Rewarm on heating pad as necessary. Compressed air helpful to blow away tiny glass bits. Wear glasses! Take breaks! This is easy if you warm carefully and are patient!

Max - Reply

I am in the process of replacing a shattered screen on an iPad 3 wifi, and I literally was removing glass piece by piece! I do recommend having a roll of wide clear sealing tape at hand. Then, when you see loose glass shards, pull off about 4 to 5 inches, and stick the tape to pick up the loose glass, and once in a while, fold the tape onto itself (sticky to sticky side), and set it aside. This helps keep it from getting everywhere. Also, spread news paper under your work. Some people don't really think of these things, but the fact is, hardened glass will find its way into your skin very easily. Extremely sharp!

dbrown900 - Reply

This repair is a total disaster. The iOpener and the tools are utterly worthless. There will be glass everywhere no matter how much tape you use or how slowly & carefully you try to pry up the bezel. Save yourself the time, money and frustration and either pay for a service that replaces the front panel, or plunk down for a new iPad. I've done many great iFixit repairs but this one is horrible. The adhesive is too powerful and the tools they give you are too weak to do any good. Guaranteed you'll damage the LCD and destroy the internal components attempting to remove the panel. Save your time and money!

N B - Reply

Image 1/3: Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.
  • There is a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad, approximately 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top of the iPad. You are going to exploit this weakness.

  • Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.

  • It may require some force to get the wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Work patiently and carefully, wiggling the plastic opening tool back and forth as necessary.

there is the power flex cable near the top right side of the screen. It could be damaged is not careful.

ChiangFeng Li - Reply

Yes, I severed this one on my first attempt. Might note that you want to start prying open below the sound controls. Additionally I found that a razor was helpful in getting the first pic into the device. Obviously you want to be careful as a razor could cause some serious damage, but I just used the tip of the metal to get some space to fit a pick.

Nick Dresang - Reply

Maybe I was doing it wrong, but the plastic opening tool I was using kept bending before it was prying anything apart. Therefore I suggest using either a metal spudger or a razor blade to make the very first opening but being VERY careful. My assistant/wife later scratched the LCD going overboard with the metal tools.

Logan Kennedy - Reply

There is a way of making the Wifi/Bluetooth Antenna replacement much easier. If you have a steady hand and a soldering iron simply desolder the connecting cable from the bottom of the antenna and solder it back onto the new antenna. This means there is no need to dismantle the iPad and the repair is much faster. Hope this helps :-)

Richard - Reply

The process was pretty straightforward, you do need to be careful in a few spots (like the wifi antenna in the lower right) but overall I found it to be of medium level of difficulty.

It took me 2.5hrs to slowly dismantle and replace the broken screen.

Here are some tips I learned while doing it:

- instead of plastic spudger, better to use kit knife or razor blade. I found plastic to bend and malform quite easily.

- watch out for lower right corner where wifi antenna sits, it's easy to damage it

- if you have a cracked screen, use protective goggles - i used tape to secure broken glass pieces together, but that didn't quite work and lots of glass was flying as I was prying the screen off the ipad

- opening tool you put in the microwave sold here is not worth it - didn't do that great for me. I mostly used a hair drier and was very successful melting adhesive

- tools I'd only need again to do it again - guitar picks, kit knife, phillips screwdriver, hair drier :D

Overall, I found it to be quite interesting project!

michalmotykiewicz - Reply

Seconding the problem about plastic components. They just aren't strong / precise enough to fight this glass. Save them for the really nasty bits like the wifi cable, and use an X-Acto or equivalent everywhere else.

Golden Neckbeard -

Had much more success using the metal spudger versus the plastic opening tool that came with the front panel kit.

Paul Boyer - Reply

I had success using Paddle Pop sticks instead of guitar picks. (not sure what they are called in the US). The guitar picks tended to deform and melt with the heat of my hot gun. The glue used to attach the screen is just amazingly strong! It takes a lot of patience to remove all the fragments. I have done about 6 screens now and it is a turdful job!

Jack - Reply

I think we call those popsicle sticks. They seem kind of thick for this, at least a lot thicker than a guitar pick.

John -

It is not glue, they use a very strong double sided 3M tape

Odus182 -

Pay attention to the Power Button cable located in the upper right corner !!!

Nathan - Reply

Successful battery change but I did sever the cord/ribbon to the power/sleep button. As my iPad had been opened before at a repair shop, I think they put adhesive over the cord as the small section was stuck underneath the LCD, barely visible. So be careful not to put adhesive above that exposed ribbon/cord to the power/sleep button or the next time you open it up, it's severed.

Breadman - Reply

On the iPad 2 I repaired, the opening started at 1 inch and ended at 3mm.

Justin H - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Make sure you place the tool in the proper spot—between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.

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Image 1/2:
  • Keeping the tip of the plastic opening tool wedged between the front glass and plastic bezel, slide a plastic opening pick in the gap, right next to the plastic opening tool.

My screen was too broken for this "heat, cut with picks, and leave in place" method to work anywhere but the top, where it was essentially undamaged.

I wound up using a spudger through all the cracked sections to pry upwards just *inside* the perimeter of the adhesive, intentionally breaking the digitizer and the glass further, until I could remove the entire front panel except for the adhered portions - about half the perimeter in my case.

I then used tools to pry up the glass from the *opposite* direction, that is the broken interior edge I had earlier created, thus not having to fight the bezel and also having a clear line of sight to any interior components I might be damaging.

Of course, doing it this way made it much easier to drop tiny shards of glass all over the interior, but I found a little diligent cleaning much easier than trying to keep the glass intact while breaking the glue, as in this guide.

Golden Neckbeard - Reply

Image 1/2:
  • Remove the plastic opening tool from the iPad, and push the opening pick further underneath the front glass to a depth of ~0.5 inches.

It should be noted that the glass can be much more difficult to remove when it is cracked and shattered (as is usually the reason for replacement) . Depending on the location and severity of the cracks, the order and technique of removal requires modification.

I have found that putting a layer of clear packing tape over the entire screen is helpful, wether it's cracked or not. It will prevent the spraying of glass shards, should the glass break while separating the adhesive; with a broken screen, it should eliminate the risk of cutting yourself during removal, as well as hold all the pieces together. Unfortunately, it also makes the iOpener slightly less effective, so peel it back when applying it. Suction cups can also be helpful during final removal of the glass.

Having a hot air gun/pencil can be helpful in removing smaller pieces if broken glass that remain once the bulk of it is removed.

Nick V - Reply

Just trashed an I pad... Not an electronics person. Did an iphone 5 battery with no problems was following instructions and once I hit the next step I realized I had already screwed up the screen... Moving forward tring to unhook LCD pictures are not very clear on which direction to push or pull so broke that... Now writing a review on it... Take it to a pro if you aren't certain!

rondiedonelson - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • While you work on releasing the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, reheat the iOpener, and replace it on the bottom edge of the iPad.

I have found that its better to put more than one pick down the side of the screen to keep it open and prevent it from sticking back down.

Roberto Enrieu - Reply

Image 1/3: Slide the opening pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
  • While the bottom edge is being heated by the iOpener, begin releasing the adhesive from the right edge of the iPad.

  • Slide the opening pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  • The adhesive is very strong, and some serious force may be required. Work carefully.

  • If you can see the tip of the opening pick underneath the front glass, pull the pick out just a little bit. While using the opening pick this deep won't damage anything, it may get adhesive residue all over the LCD.

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Image 1/3: If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
  • It may be necessary to move the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad as you release the adhesive. This depends on how long the iPad has been able to cool while you were working on it.

  • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

The volume power button cable is really close to the edge and is frequently loose and non adherent to the frame. If your pick is deep into the iPad, you are almost sure to cut the cable. Be very cautious around the top right corner of the iPad.

silvain1038 - Reply

I absolutely severed this cable when loosening the adhesive around the volume button area. There is really no way of knowing if this cable somewhat elevated from the frame and therefore susceptible to being cut, and it happens to be right where one starts to remove the face with the guitar picks. The cable is directly in from the down volume button, so be extra careful not to put the guitar pick in too far in this area. I recommend buying a power/volume button cable just in case. Replacing this cable is also not easy, but doable. Just try to avoid doing it.

nickmalmquist - Reply

Image 1/2: Re-heat the iOpener, and move it to the top  edge of the iPad.
  • Before removing the first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, insert a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from re-adhering.

  • Re-heat the iOpener, and move it to the top edge of the iPad.

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Image 1/1: The Wi-Fi antenna is attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad via screws and a cable. Because of the orientation of the Wi-Fi antenna, it is imperative to proceed with caution otherwise irreversible damage to the Wi-Fi antenna may result.
  • The next few steps require extreme caution.

  • The Wi-Fi antenna is attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad via screws and a cable. Because of the orientation of the Wi-Fi antenna, it is imperative to proceed with caution otherwise irreversible damage to the Wi-Fi antenna may result.

  • You will have to release the adhesive securing the antenna to the front panel without damaging the delicate parts attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow the next steps carefully.

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Image 1/2: Do not slide the pick further than the bottom right corner. You may damage the Wi-Fi antenna by doing so.
  • Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.

  • Do not slide the pick further than the bottom right corner. You may damage the Wi-Fi antenna by doing so.

Be sure to have a replacement Bluetooth Wi-Fi antenna because it is very likely to get the cable broken at this step.

McGiord - Reply

Be extremely careful and patient at this step. Proceed slowly with only the tip ( 1/16th in. - 2mm max.) of the pick. There are two tinny screws that attach the bottom of the antenna to the iPad frame. This antenna part is easly severed if the pick goes too far.

Happenned to me and had to replace the antenna.

Marc Bouchard - Reply

Image 1/2: Do not completely remove the pick from under the front glass, but pull it out just a little bit so that ~1/8" of the tip is still under the front glass.
  • This step requires you to move the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is very close to the corner and is easily severed if the adhesive is released improperly.

  • Do not completely remove the pick from under the front glass, but pull it out just a little bit so that ~1/8" of the tip is still under the front glass.

  • Slide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna.

I nearly broke my wifi antenna because I didn't read this whole step clearly and didn't go backwards and release the antenna from the front panel. Admittedly, this is my own fault but I've edited the step to make this point more clear.

Logan Kennedy - Reply

My screen was way too shattered for me to be able to use the screen instructions as suggested, so I followed the general principal but ignored the order around, because that simply wouldn't have worked...and destroyed the antenna.

Maybe step one should be "BE CAREFUL IN THIS CORNER OR YOU WILL BREAK THE ANTENNA!" A diagram highlighting where all the cables (antenna, digitiser, volume, toggle switch) lie with the screen still attached would be helpful too.

HRB - Reply

Or maybe you should have read the entire thing before starting if you were not planing on following it step by step

Hawesg Garrett -

I Broke my antenna like many others. It is glued to the glass and has 1mm thick foam backing that is also glued to the inner case. Then there is a tiny grounding connector screwed at the lower edge of the case. Once you can get things loosened up around this antenna, you will need to detach this antenna from the glass. Work at it with your picks or spudger until you get it free, if you do not get it to release from the glass you will break the grounding ribbon. I bought a cheap aftermarket antenna on amazon for $3. turns out it has a bad cable coming from it. I was able to unsolder the cable from the one I broke and solder it to the new antenna.

chrisnewitt - Reply

This BEGS for an Archer "Just The Tip" reference.

Christian - Reply

It wasn't obvious to me at first that I'd broken the antenna. A picture of the antenna that works compared with one that is broken would be useful. Fortunately I'd ordered the replacement part just in case, as suggested.

I think using extra heat on this spot may make it easier to unstick without breaking the antenna?

A diagram of what the antenna looks like, from the side, would make it clearer what to do with the pick. You are trying to detach the antenna from the glass, without ripping it off where it's screwed into the bottom of the ipad. Since you can't see what you are doing, and the antenna is quite fragile, that's tricky.

I think once you've broken one you would know better how to do it. When you slide the pick to the right you need to be sure the pick is moving above the antenna and not snagging on it in any way, and you need to be sure the antenna is completely detached from the glass, so you don't tear it when you lift the glass up.

Chris Jordan - Reply

Can anybody give me a clue as to what the exact part is in step 57, As there are slightly different cables for the ipad 2, Mine is A1395, Thanks.

Jasper - Reply

Image 1/2: Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
  • Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna (approximately 3" from the right edge, or right next to the home button) re-insert the opening pick to its full depth.

  • Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

    • The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.

Be extremely cautious on this step! I did it wrong and my antenna went to !@#$.

Lars Lien Ankile - Reply

Image 1/3: If the adhesive has cooled too much along the bottom edge, reheat the iOpener to warm the adhesive where you are working.
  • Continue releasing the adhesive along the bottom of the iPad, pulling the opening pick out far enough to go around the home button, and re-inserting it to a depth of 1/2 inch once the pick is past the home button.

  • If the adhesive has cooled too much along the bottom edge, reheat the iOpener to warm the adhesive where you are working.

  • Do not heat the iOpener more than a minute at a time, and always allow at least two minutes before reheating it.

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Image 1/2: On iPad 4 models, insert the pick to a maximum depth of 1/2 inch in this area, to avoid damaging the home button ribbon cable.
  • Continue releasing the adhesive all the way along the bottom edge of the iPad.

    • On iPad 4 models, insert the pick to a maximum depth of 1/2 inch in this area, to avoid damaging the home button ribbon cable.

  • Leave the opening pick wedged underneath the front glass near the home button.

This should include details about the Home Button Ribbon Cable. Unlike an iPad 3 (which doesn't have this cable) the iPad 4 has a Home Button Ribbon Cable that runs along the left side of the Home Button and is adhered to the glass. If the guitar pick is inserted too far (more than 0.5") it is possible to damage or sever this cable.

robjpete - Reply

There is a reason this is an iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC-2560 repair guide. This guide isn't for iPad 3 or 4...

Christian -

I think the guides carry common steps between them. I'm reading this string of comments on multiple ipad 3/4 repair guides.

Anticept - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Reheat the iOpener in the microwave and set it on the left edge of the iPad to start warming the adhesive in that section.

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Image 1/3: The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.
  • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.

  • The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.

  • If the adhesive has cooled too much, replace the iOpener along the top edge and continue working. If the iOpener has cooled too much, reheat it.

  • If the opening pick is getting stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick as shown in step 9.

In my case I damaged the right GSM antenna which was somehow sticked to the front panel... Be really careful as I really didn't felt that I was damaging anything...

MattLise Gaillzik - Reply

+1 on the right 3g antenna - it is adhered to the glass and I cut right through it with the opening pick. The replacement included adhesive to re-stick it to the glass, so this is a definite feature of this antenna. This is a thin film similar to the wifi antenna, so maybe going around it at a shallow depth from the corner to the camera and then returning to the corner slightly deeper would allow you to separate the antenna from the glass without damaging it.

doog - Reply

Be very careful when going around the front camera, I cracked my screen by prying up too much and causing too much stress!

Rowdydtk - Reply

Image 1/2: If the adhesive is warm enough, remove the iOpener from the iPad for convenience. However, if the adhesive is still quite sticky, re-heat the iOpener and lay it on the left edge while you work.
  • Continue releasing the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and slide the opening pick around the top left corner.

  • If the adhesive is warm enough, remove the iOpener from the iPad for convenience. However, if the adhesive is still quite sticky, re-heat the iOpener and lay it on the left edge while you work.

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Image 1/3: The digitizer cable is located approximately  2" from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~2.25" from the bottom of the iPad.
  • Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is thin here due to the digitizer along the whole left side. Make sure the pick is not too deep (max 1/2 inch) to prevent damaging the digitizer.

  • The digitizer cable is located approximately 2" from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~2.25" from the bottom of the iPad.

The second photo does not show the iPad 4's Home Button Ribbon Cable.

robjpete - Reply

Because this is for an iPad 2

Odus182 -

This is the hardest part the digitizer cable runs the length of this side and u have to be very carefull with the pick . Only go in an 1/8 inch I severed it by going the half (recommended) luckily I had a new screen standing by . I used I opener for heating and it was slow but ok.

wperrin623 - Reply

Image 1/2: The bottom of the digitizer cable is only ~1" from the bottom of the iPad. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not sever this cable.
  • Using the opening pick that is still underneath the bottom edge of the iPad, release the adhesive along the bottom left corner.

  • The bottom of the digitizer cable is only ~1" from the bottom of the iPad. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not sever this cable.

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Image 1/2: Some of the adhesive along the perimeter of the iPad may have stuck back down again. If this is the case, slide a pick underneath the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck and "cut" the adhesive.
  • Using one of the opening picks, pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad and grab it with your fingers.

  • Some of the adhesive along the perimeter of the iPad may have stuck back down again. If this is the case, slide a pick underneath the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck and "cut" the adhesive.

Should be right-hand corner

longg - Reply

Be very careful when pushing the guitar pick around the corner of the power/volume buttons. The ribbon cable for these buttons may be stuck to the adhesive and break when lifting the screen or when sliding the pick along this area. I have done 4 iPad 2 repairs and at least one of the delicate components do not make it. I would recommend ordering a wi-fi/bluetooth antenna, bezel with strips, and a power/volume cable. It is nice to have a "just-in-case" part or two, they are very inexpensive. I noticed that the I tended to break one of these delicate components when the screen was shattered in the area of those components.

thetechandtutor - Reply

I absolutely severed this cable when loosening the adhesive around the volume button area. There is really no way of knowing if this cable somewhat elevated from the frame and therefore susceptible to being cut, and it happens to be right where one starts to remove the face with the guitar picks. The cable is directly in from the down volume button, so be extra careful not to put the guitar pick in too far in this area. I recommend buying a power/volume button cable just in case. Replacing this cable is also not easy, but doable. Just try to avoid doing it.

nickmalmquist - Reply

Image 1/2: Be careful of any adhesive that may still be attached, and use an opening pick to cut any adhesive that may still be holding the front panel down.
  • Holding the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, rotate the front glass away from the iPad.

  • Be careful of any adhesive that may still be attached, and use an opening pick to cut any adhesive that may still be holding the front panel down.

Check to the right of the Home button to see if the wifi/bluetooth antenna is still stuck to the glass side or has released. If it is still stuck to the glass use the guitar pick to carefully scrape it off. If your goal is to replace the antenna, then you needn't be so careful.

jerry81 - Reply

Be very careful not to touch the LCD. It's a pain to remove smudges. One thing that might help when you need to hold it while reattaching it during reassembly: attach a small suction cup to the metal side. That way you can avoid touching the sides where your hand might slip to the LCD side.

patjmccarthy - Reply

Do you need to use some adhesive strips to remount the plastic bezel? The bezel I ordered didn't come with any and the ones you can order only seem to have strips for mounting the glass and not the bezel.

James - Reply

You'd better. The original bezel is glued. You can find 3mm fine/double-sided (black) tape on Amazon. I use it when I replace the bezel because they fit perfectly under the bezel. I use for all sorts of repairs on iPhones, Samsungs, etc. Such as this [one|http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GIS...]

Rany -

In order to prevent touching the LCD screen with your finger(s), I use the thin plastic food wrapper to cover it. It will temporary stick to the LCD screen and provide excellent protection from fingerprints.

Th Th - Reply

you can use latex gloves to keep smudges and finger prints from the screen. I'm getting ready to repair mine, thanks for all the comments and tips. Btw, I wonder if a vacuum cleaner would work for removing small pieces of glass.

De Dios sept.10 2014

dediosjon - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

It would be good to see how reassembling.

Gabriel Ganga - Reply

Yes, or at least show where the adhesive parts go

Luke Barone - Reply

I'll second the request to see how to reassemble!

Maggie - Reply

Image 1/2: Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its display data cable will remain connected while it is rotated over.
  • The front panel ribbon cables are connected beneath the LCD. To access them, you'll need to temporarily flip the LCD over and out of the way.

    • Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its display data cable will remain connected while it is rotated over.

  • Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.

  • Set the LCD face down on the front panel.

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Image 1/2: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flaps, '''not''' the sockets themselves.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully flip up the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves.

  • The retaining flaps are highlighted in red in the second picture.

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Image 1/2: Carefully pull the digitizer cable off the adhesive securing it to the side of the rear case.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the digitizer cable off the shields on the logic board.

  • Carefully pull the digitizer cable off the adhesive securing it to the side of the rear case.

It is a really good idea to apply a bit of heat to this ribbon cable prior to removal. Ribbon cables that are held in place with adhesive can tear easily. Taking a moment to warm it up will help make the removal much easier.

Joshua - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its two sockets on the logic board.

After I replaced the digitizer only half the screen is working. Any reason for this problem ?

Pedro Trindade - Reply

Image 1/2: Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its cable will remain connected while it is rotated over.
  • In order to remove the front panel assembly, the ribbon cable needs to slide out between the case and the LCD. You'll need to move the LCD to make some room.

    • Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its cable will remain connected while it is rotated over.

  • Lift the LCD from its long edge farthest from the digitizer cable and gently flip it toward the rear case—like closing a book.

  • While holding the LCD up, gently slide the front panel away from the iPad. Be careful not to snag the digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD.

    • Set the LCD back into the body for safekeeping.

(Step 14 should be deleted.)

John Cain - Reply

why it should be deleted?

i think it's necessary to remove the digitizer cable before we lift up the logicboard

Can Han -

It should go without saying, but anytime you are handling the LCD, try to only touch the edges. Otherwise you'll be scrubbing fingerprints for 15 minutes. Not that I'm speaking from personal experience or anything.

Ed Chapman - Reply

random question...........1 problem i've ran into in the past is the digitizer cable is so long on aftermarket screens the adhesive isn't strong enough to hold the glass down around the digitizer area where it is folded.

would it help to have a 2nd person tilt glass straight up off table and tuck some extra cable under the lcd or will this cause a problem with the lcd itself?

Jason S - Reply

Image 1/1: Place the iOpener in the microwave and microwave it for '''thirty seconds''' on the highest power setting.
  • The home button assembly is attached to the front panel with some adhesive. The use of an iOpener to soften the adhesive is highly recommended.

  • Place the iOpener in the microwave and microwave it for thirty seconds on the highest power setting.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. We recommend waiting at least three minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener over the home button on the front edge of the display.

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Image 1/2:
  • Wedge the plastic opening tool under the right side of the home button assembly and pry upwards, releasing the adhesive on that side.

Note the distance of the home button mount from the bottom edge of the digitizer. Cut and pasted from the adhesive tutorial (thanks, John): Make sure the home button mounting bracket has a parallel gap of 1-2 mm from the bottom of the digitizer.

patjmccarthy - Reply

Position the home button and push the panel onto it. Remove the portion of film from the digitizer, adhesive from the home button, then push down in place the bottom of the screen so the home button sticks to the digitizer. If you position the home button on the digitizer it will be more trial and error.

asle -

I can see that there is no cut and dry method of positoning the home button assembly. The screen I am replacing was shattered around the home button, so when I was putting it back together, I had no reference for placement. So....I got it too far towards the edge of the frame, then it wouldn't fit in the opening, when trying to place the screen on the frame.

dbrown900 - Reply

Image 1/2: Lift the home button mount off of the front panel.
  • Using the technique above, release the adhesive on the left side of the home button.

  • Lift the home button mount off of the front panel.

When I got the home button it threw me off because mine (that I bought from a nearby store) had a ribbon cable attached to it. I was freaking out trying to find where it goes, but instead decided to swap the home button units.

Sean Cloughley - Reply

Image 1/3: Slide the plastic opening tool along the retaining spring bracket, releasing the adhesive.
  • Insert the edge of plastic opening tool underneath the edge of the home button mounting bracket.

  • Slide the plastic opening tool along the retaining spring bracket, releasing the adhesive.

  • Remove the home button with mounting bracket from the front panel.

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Image 1/1: Follow the iOpener heating instructions described in the iOpener heating section at the beginning of this guide.
  • The camera bracket is attached to the front panel by adhesive. The use of an iOpener to soften the adhesive is highly recommended.

  • Follow the iOpener heating instructions described in the iOpener heating section at the beginning of this guide.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. We recommend waiting at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener over the front facing camera on the front edge of the top of the display.

The only problem I found during this whole thing was reattaching the camera bracket to the new digitizer. iFixit's Adhesive pack, which comes with the front panel kit, does not have any adhesive for that part. Hopefully, yours will still have some glue that will be enough to glue it back, like mine.

ERICOLIVETREE - Reply

I have done 2 glass/digitizer replacements and none of the old glass had the camera bracket, so I put it back together without them. Anybody else find this?

Palomino - Reply

Image 1/2: The camera bracket will move about 2 mm to the right or left depending which way you push the camera bracket.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to push the camera bracket off the adhesive securing it to the front panel.

  • The camera bracket will move about 2 mm to the right or left depending which way you push the camera bracket.

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Image 1/1:
  • Lift and remove the camera bracket up off the front panel.

A good way to make sure the camera bracket sits correctly is to slip it into place on the camera with adhesive. Remove only a portion of the film at the top of the digitizer (where the camera bracket sits.) Then position the digitizer into place at the top and push down so the bracket sticks in correct position. I do the same for the home button. remove the portion of film from the digitizer, adhesive from the home button, then push down in place the bottom of the screen so the home button sticks to the digitizer. Check that the home button works properly before removing the adhesive covers and the final closing.

asle - Reply

Image 1/1: If you are replacing your panel with a new one, be aware that the new panel may have a protective film on the outside and/or inside of the frame. This needs to be removed.
  • Front panel remains.

  • If you are replacing your panel with a new one, be aware that the new panel may have a protective film on the outside and/or inside of the frame. This needs to be removed.

When closing the digitizer it is essential that you have tucked the digitizer cable into the opening between the frame and the LCD. Or else you can experience a small raise on the digitizer where the cable goes down.

- Be careful that the adhesive along the panel does not stick to the cable

- Position to close the side of the panel where the cable is

- Use the plastic opening tool to fold in the cable underneath the LCD. This cable is more robust than e.g. the iPad Mini digitizer cable. There is an opening between the frame and the LCD where the cable runs down to the logic board

- Make sure the cable is running downward into the iPad. There should be no folded cable on the frame but into the gap.

Close the side and adjust the panel to the other side and position it in place. This way you avoid any bulge on that side of the digitizer and it will sit perfectly.

asle - Reply

I didn't read the comment above from asle, and I had to take it back apart again and reroute the cable correctly. Read that comment carefully.

Chris Jordan - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these directions in reverse and use our iPad 2 Wi-Fi Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to reattach the front panel.

265 other people completed this guide.

16 Comments

Step11- I tore the antenna, still works though. Buy a new one for 2 bucks off amazon before repair just in case.

Dave Y - Reply

Correct! I tore my antenna also, but my wifi signal was so weak I had to replace the whole antenna, which required more time. The picture in Step 11 actually shows the antenna broken off the cable. That confused me a little. If your antenna looks like the one in step 11 you broke it! But I did complete the repair successfully. I also suggest you pick up a cheap antenna just in case.

mamos68 -

I would recommend that in cases of replacing shattered screens, that you tape the front panel glass with clear packing tape using overlapping strips, before you begin. This helps to ensure that the panel stays intact, and reduces the chances of puncturing the digitizing layer, and damaging the LCD upon removal.

You want to use clear tape so that you are able to see how any of the glass remnants are shifting during removal.

dcorsivo - Reply

This is a very good idea. I was replacing one with a shattered screen and it was a pain in the ##@ because it kept breaking again and again, not to mention the safety glasses I had to wear because tiny glass bits kept flying into my eyes.

Have you edited the guide to include a step about this?

Logan Kennedy -

After replacing the screen I noticed it looked horrible because the little plastic bezel was missing. I considered reusing the old one but it got pretty beat up in the removal process so it wasn't really an option.

I will be editing the guide to mention trying to keep the plastic bezel intact so it can be reused after the screen is replaced. If it cannot be reused, I feel like the parts kit that includes the new screen should include a new bezel.

Logan Kennedy - Reply

After looking closer, I see that it suggests prying between the glass and the bezel and leaving the bezel behind, once again my fault for not reading closely enough. I will say that this is quite difficult to do when the screen is already shattered...

Logan Kennedy -

The updated iOpener version of the guide references "a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad". This is incorrect, that applies to iPad 3/4 only. For iPad 2 you should still be starting to the right of the home button, taking care to avoid damaging the WiFi antenna.

DarrenG - Reply

You can use a hair dryer as a heating device to soften the glue.

The plastic tools are easy to break if you push too hard.

Have more than a couple guitar picks too.

Be safe with the broken glass, PROTECT YOUR EYES! GLASS PIECES FLY EVERYWHERE!

Have a way to manage the broken glass pieces.

McGiord - Reply

I found it helpful to tape the ipad to a heat proof kitchen cutting board with non slip bottom, by making loops of gaffer tape. This kept it from moving around and still allowed me to change the orientation of the ipad. I also premarked the areas of the wifi antenna and the sensor cable on the front of the ipad with a grease pen, then taped it over with packing tape. Helped me remember not to go too far and to be careful at those places. The isesame tool and an exacto blade worked well, with a heat gun set on low. Used the guitar picks as place holders. Fun and fulfilling!

garai1 - Reply

I think I broke the connectors for the digitizer cable. I can't get the locks back in and the touch screen isnt working properly. Anyone have any tips for putting the locks back in?

gary - Reply

This guide was very helpful, my repair was made difficult by the fact that the part off my screen that was most destroyed was the place where you're supposed to start removing the screen from. I did damage my Wi-Fi antenna and needed to replace it. Overall the repair went according to plan. Thank you ifixit!

christian81795 - Reply

The guide is very thorough and the pictures on each step very helpful. Was able to remove without damaging WiFi antenna. Be careful and try to not destroy the bezel on removal. Should be included as part of the front panel kit to be replaced.

mmmdawg91 - Reply

General

I used the kit from iFixit. It worked fine. But I killed the iOpener in my microwave. So I had to replace it by a cooling pad. This works as well. I would not recommend to heat it in the microwave. Heat the iOpener in boiling water. That way it gets as hot as it could, without overheating. Don't be afraid of water on the heated pad. Dry it on a towel after heating, but water on it evaporates fast, if it is really hot.

Step 31: Have a closer look on the digitiser ribbon. It is folded. When reassembling with replacement kit, fold its ribbon first. And it might be a good idea to remove the screen ribbon. It is attached to the board with a small bracket on the connector.

Before you remove the protection ribbons from the assembly kit, check whether it fits. In my case the screen broke as it fell on one of the edges. I had to bend it a little bit outwards so the new panel fetched in.

Have some spectacles cloth available for cleaning the screen if it might become necessary. Beware of dust

Bernhard Keim - Reply

I replaced the Front Panel which came with adhesive strips. I very carefully removed the original glue and carefully cleaned the adhesion surfaces on the rear case. The iPad worked perfect for a few days but then the Front Panel started lifting off on the left bottom corner near the home button. Is there something special that needs to be considered when putting together?

George Wonder - Reply

Step 29

When putting the new digitizer screen back in, does the cable fully insert into the gap between the frame and under the LCD, or does part of it pancake between the digitizer and above the LCD screen ?

Tom

gionpeters - Reply

When doing service like this one, how important is it to remove the leftover adhesive that still sits on the edges around the thing? Do I have to get rid of all or at least most of it or maybe it doesn't even matter at all?

skulasonarni - Reply

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