Danger
Potentially Dangerous
Injury may result if this procedure is not followed properly. Use caution and follow all warnings.
Danger

Introduction

Use this guide to replace a faulty logic board.

When reassembling your iMac, follow our thermal paste application guide to reapply the thermal paste.

  • With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs are fast and easy with an iMac service wedge, but can be completed without one.

  • Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

  • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

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Image 1/2: The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage. Image 2/2: The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.
  • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear enclosure.

  • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

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Image 1/3: Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle. Image 2/3: Run the tool up along the left side of the display. Image 3/3: Run the tool up along the left side of the display.
  • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

  • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

  • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

Erreur de traduction: "de bas en haut" et non de" haut en bas" sur le côté gauche de l'écran

Moreau - Reply

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Continue running the tool up around the top left corner.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

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Image 1/2: You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible. Image 2/2: You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.
  • Continue along the top of the display.

  • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

In this step can I cut along the display without make any damage to the front camera?

arisnordico - Reply

Hi! Actually - there is no need to cut the tape around the camera area - there is no tape to cut at all! And so, the way go is easy - just pass 10 mm to the left and to the right from camera and start cutting!

P.S. Just did the whole procedure to replace a RAM and to add SSD on PSIe an hour ago! Seems to be different reading the instructions... you know - 2/10 and so on. But it's really not that hard, trust me. I'll give it 5/10.

P.P.S. By the way there is one trick to pass the difficult steps. Any action which requires pulling smth (motherboard, speaker, power supply unit) from the narrow crack (or should i say - slit?) at the bottom of your Imac is really not so easy.

And the trick is to first remove a thin metal stripe with some kind of insulation on it which held by 5 small (very small!!) screws at the bottom of your Imac. After you done it - it's easy to pull everything! Pay attention to the fact that one of this 5 screws at the center are more shortly than others.

dv1977 - Reply

After doing the replacement the adhesive still sticks quite good enough to hold the screen in place. Maybe this isn't rock-solid, but enough for me.

Mirko - Reply

I did all steps like this manuell but now the Display wont work only some colered strips are to see! Whats happend??

Can anybody help me ? Maybe the connector cable is broken?

djfanta - Reply

Check both connectors, probably one of them not seated well

pzhivulin -

You can add a SATA SSD if you already have a PCIe SSD Factory?

kaserlik - Reply

If you're changing cracked EMC 2638 display to new assembly, there's two more steps:

Step 24: Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the display assembly.

Step 25: Use the tip of a spudger to unplug bracket of the thermal sensor small cable near display data cable.

Carefully remove scotch tape covering thermal sensor. Using iSesamo or flat tip of the spudger carefully peel the thermal sensor away.

pzhivulin - Reply

omg - forgot to switch the termal sensor from the old display...

now fan runs like crazy...

Andrei Balotescu -

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

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Image 1/2: At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible. Image 2/2: At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.
  • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

  • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

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Image 1/3: Set the iMac face-up on a table. Image 2/3: Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, wedge a plastic card between the display and frame. Image 3/3: Be careful '''not''' to insert the plastic card more than 3/8", or you may damage internal components.
  • While the opening tool cut most of the adhesive, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

  • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

  • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, wedge a plastic card between the display and frame.

  • Be careful not to insert the plastic card more than 3/8", or you may damage internal components.

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Image 1/2: Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4". Image 2/2: Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".
  • Gently twist the plastic card sideways to create a gap between the display and frame.

  • Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".

This part must be done very carefully or you can damage the flat cable from display, despite it was under a iron cover.

Cassio Machado - Reply

Image 1/3: Be sure to '''stop''' before the iSight camera, or you may damage it. Image 2/3: Be sure to '''stop''' before the iSight camera, or you may damage it. Image 3/3: Be sure to '''stop''' before the iSight camera, or you may damage it.
  • Slide the card toward the center of the display to cut any of the remaining adhesive along the top right corner of the iMac.

  • Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac.

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Image 1/2: As with the other side, twist slowly to allow the adhesive time to separate, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass. Image 2/2: As with the other side, twist slowly to allow the adhesive time to separate, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.
  • Gently twist the card upward, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

  • As with the other side, twist slowly to allow the adhesive time to separate, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner.

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Image 1/3: If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the remaining adhesive. Image 2/3: Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame. Image 3/3: Only lift the display a few inches—the display data and power cables are still connected to the logic board.
  • With both plastic cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards sideways to increase the gap between display and case.

  • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the remaining adhesive.

  • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

  • Only lift the display a few inches—the display data and power cables are still connected to the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connector, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8"). Image 2/2: Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connector, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").
  • While holding the display up with one hand, use the other hand to unplug the display power cable.

  • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connector, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

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Image 1/3: Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the logic board. Image 2/3: Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket. Image 3/3: Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

  • Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.

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Image 1/2: At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times. Image 2/2: At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.
  • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

  • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.

Cutting through this extra adhesive on the bottom took a bit more effort than the step and picture implied (to me). Unlike the other edges, here don't be afraid to really push the card in there to break the seal, there's nothing behind that adhesive that is breakable.

phil - Reply

cutting through the adhesive is unnecessary if it's not been opened before (outside of an apple store) there will be a tab at the end of each VHB strip that you can use to simply pull the vhb strips off.

Rory McKenna - Reply

Image 1/3: It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive. Image 2/3: Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass. Image 3/3: Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.
  • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac.

  • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

  • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.

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Image 1/2: Four 3.2 mm screws Image 2/2: One 1.7 mm screw
  • Remove the following five Phillips screws holding the lower support bracket in place:

    • Four 3.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

  • You may need to peel up the display adhesive lining the bottom edge of the iMac enclosure to access the screws.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the lower support bracket from the iMac enclosure.

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Image 1/2: It is useful to push downward on both short sides of the connector to ''walk'' it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, as they can be easily broken off. Image 2/2: Pull the connector downwards to remove it from its socket.
  • Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to push downward on both short sides of the connector to walk it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, as they can be easily broken off.

  • Pull the connector downwards to remove it from its socket.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 10.0 mm T10 screws securing the right speaker to the rear enclosure.

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Image 1/2: Run the spudger down along the right side of the speaker to pry the antenna cable from its channel in the right speaker. Image 2/2: Run the spudger down along the right side of the speaker to pry the antenna cable from its channel in the right speaker.
  • Insert the tip of a spudger between the right speaker and the antenna cable that is routed into the speaker's right side.

  • Run the spudger down along the right side of the speaker to pry the antenna cable from its channel in the right speaker.

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Image 1/3: The speaker is tightly wedged into the rear enclosure, therefore it may be helpful to tilt the speaker side to side while pulling upward. Image 2/3: The speaker is tightly wedged into the rear enclosure, therefore it may be helpful to tilt the speaker side to side while pulling upward. Image 3/3: The speaker is tightly wedged into the rear enclosure, therefore it may be helpful to tilt the speaker side to side while pulling upward.
  • Lift the right speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

  • The speaker is tightly wedged into the rear enclosure, therefore it may be helpful to tilt the speaker side to side while pulling upward.

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Image 1/1: Two 21 mm T10 Torx screws from the left-hand hard drive bracket.
  • Remove the following screws securing the hard drive bracket to the rear enclosure:

    • Two 21 mm T10 Torx screws from the left-hand hard drive bracket.

    • One 9mm T10 Torx screw.

    • One 27 mm T10 Torx screw.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac.

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Image 1/3: Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power button cable connector and gently ''walk'' it out of its socket. Image 2/3: Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power button cable connector and gently ''walk'' it out of its socket. Image 3/3: Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power button cable connector and gently ''walk'' it out of its socket.
  • The next few steps bring your hands close to the exposed face of the power supply. Do not touch the face of the power supply or any of the exposed solder. Touching it risks a high voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power button cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket.

I would advise that before removing the PSU unit and all other components from the bottom of the case that you remove the 5 screws at the bottom of the display which hold an insulation strip in place.

The guide shows this piece removed, but does not tell you how to remove it.

There will be 5, small J1000 screws. The middle one, which goes over Apple Logo is the shorter one of the 5, all others are the same length. Once this piece is gone removing the components is much easier, and chance of damage lessened.

Jeffrey Gelinas - Reply

Added to the guide. Thanks for the tip!

Jeff Suovanen -

No need to remove power board and logic board and all other components, just remove the fan and it is quite "easily" accessable to change the RAM. Just need to use the tools to remove the old RAM and carefully install the new RAM.

I just did it without removing the logic or power board

Oleksandr Trokhymchuk - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the tip of a spudger to push each side of the power supply control cable connector and gently walk it out of its socket.

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Image 1/1: In newer model iMacs these are 7.2 mm T8 or T9 Torx screws.
  • Remove the two 7.2 mm T10 Torx screws securing the power supply to the rear enclosure.

    • In newer model iMacs these are 7.2 mm T8 or T9 Torx screws.

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Image 1/2: Tilt the power supply forward. Image 2/2: Tilt the power supply forward.
  • When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

  • Tilt the power supply forward.

When replacing the PSU (on the re-build) take care not to trap the power button cable behind it - I did...

Dave Hallett - Reply

Image 1/3: Rotate the power supply counterclockwise, lifting the right side up about an inch higher than the left. Image 2/3: Rotate the power supply counterclockwise, lifting the right side up about an inch higher than the left. Image 3/3: Rotate the power supply counterclockwise, lifting the right side up about an inch higher than the left.
  • Pull the power supply slightly up and out from the rear enclosure.

  • Rotate the power supply counterclockwise, lifting the right side up about an inch higher than the left.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Slide the power supply to the right to clear the screw posts on the rear enclosure.

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Image 1/3: '''Do not''' try to completely remove the power supply from the iMac yet—it is still connected to the logic board. Image 2/3: '''Do not''' try to completely remove the power supply from the iMac yet—it is still connected to the logic board. Image 3/3: '''Do not''' try to completely remove the power supply from the iMac yet—it is still connected to the logic board.
  • Rock the power supply forward and remove it from its recess in the rear enclosure.

  • Do not try to completely remove the power supply from the iMac yet—it is still connected to the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Flip the power supply over to access the DC power cable connection behind the logic board. Image 2/2: Squeeze the DC power cable connector tab and pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.
  • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

  • Flip the power supply over to access the DC power cable connection behind the logic board.

  • Squeeze the DC power cable connector tab and pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.

when pulled the cable, even slightly, the actual female piece that connects to the logic board came off. am i screwed?

Racheal Major - Reply

Image 1/3: Use the flat end of a spudger to press the clip on the side of the AC inlet cable connector inward. Image 2/3: While pressing on the release clip with the spudger, grasp the AC inlet cable, and pull the connector straight out of its socket. Image 3/3: While pressing on the release clip with the spudger, grasp the AC inlet cable, and pull the connector straight out of its socket.
  • You may find it helpful to set the iMac down on its back for the next couple of steps.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to press the clip on the side of the AC inlet cable connector inward.

  • While pressing on the release clip with the spudger, grasp the AC inlet cable, and pull the connector straight out of its socket.

I didn't disconnect the input cable to the power supply. Because I had the machine lying on its back throughout, I placed it on to the metal bit at the bottom of the machine instead (with a cloth to stop the metal getting scratched). The AC inlet cable was pretty tricky to get un-locked, and the PSU sat on the case fine. It didn't hinder anything else throughout the guide.

Dave Hallett - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the power supply from the iMac.

erreur: retirer "la carte d'alimentation" et non" le disque dur" !!!!!

Moreau - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Gently pull the fan cable connector straight away from its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the three 12.3 mm T10 shoulder screws securing the fan to the rear enclosure.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the fan from the iMac.

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Image 1/3: The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable—do '''not''' attempt to fully remove it from the iMac yet. Image 2/3: The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable—do '''not''' attempt to fully remove it from the iMac yet. Image 3/3: The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable—do '''not''' attempt to fully remove it from the iMac yet.
  • Lift the hard drive from the edge nearest the logic board and pull it slightly out of its recess.

  • The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable—do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac yet.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable by gently prying its large plastic connector away from the hard drive.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the hard drive assembly from the iMac.

When reassembling, I found it easier to loosen the HD tray screw from Step 48 and pull the tray outwards from the left side in order to plug the SATA cable in more easily.

KB1972 - Reply

Thanks! I, too, had a hard time reconnecting the SATA cable.

boboswell -

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the single 7.2 mm T10 screw securing the hard drive tray to the rear enclosure.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the hard drive tray from the rear enclosure.

You will have to reroute the sata cable beneath too. The drive tray will not simply lift out.

Keir Thomas - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Push on each side of the left speaker cable connector with the tip of a spudger and gently walk it out of its socket.

A step is entirely missing here – removing the right speaker cable connection from the logic board and also removing the right speaker casing (all the pictures below show it already having been removed). You actually don't need to entirely remove the right speaker to get the logic board out but you will need to remove its screws and lift it slightly. And you will need to remove its plug from the motherboard but that's not hard and it looks identical to the left speaker plug/socket.

Keir Thomas - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • If necessary, use a pair of tweezers to gently peel the tape securing the left speaker cable to the SATA data/power cable.

Actually i didn't get why should i unstick the tape which gum up left speaker cable to the SATA data/power cable. It's gonna be hard to bond the tape again cause it looses the clue ability. I can definetely claim that there is no need to touch the tape.

dv1977 - Reply

I too can say that there was no reason to remove the tape.

Jeffrey Gelinas -

Agreed. I completed the repair without removing the tape.

phil -

Image 1/3: In a similar fashion, lift the combo SATA data/power cable up out of the retaining clip. Image 2/3: In a similar fashion, lift the combo SATA data/power cable up out of the retaining clip. Image 3/3: In a similar fashion, lift the combo SATA data/power cable up out of the retaining clip.
  • De-route the left speaker cable by pulling it straight up out of the retaining clip in the back of the rear enclosure.

  • In a similar fashion, lift the combo SATA data/power cable up out of the retaining clip.

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Image 1/3: Pull the iSight camera cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Image 2/3: Do '''not''' use excessive force. This is a delicate connector that can be easily damaged. Image 3/3: Do '''not''' use excessive force. This is a delicate connector that can be easily damaged.
  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable connector.

  • Pull the iSight camera cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not use excessive force. This is a delicate connector that can be easily damaged.

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Image 1/3: Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables. Image 2/3: Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables. Image 3/3: Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables.
  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

  • Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables.

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Image 1/3: Push the cable slightly to the right to clear it for the removal of the logic board. Image 2/3: Push the cable slightly to the right to clear it for the removal of the logic board. Image 3/3: Push the cable slightly to the right to clear it for the removal of the logic board.
  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Push the cable slightly to the right to clear it for the removal of the logic board.

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Image 1/1: Two 6.3 mm T8 screws
  • Remove the following screws securing the exhaust duct to the rear enclosure:

    • Two 6.3 mm T8 screws

    • Two 4.7 mm T8 screws

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the four 7.2 mm T10 screws securing the logic board to the rear enclosure.

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Image 1/3: Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Image 2/3: Be careful '''not''' to snag the board on any of the rear case's screw posts. Image 3/3: The I/O boards at the bottom of the logic board will be the greatest challenge. It is recommended to pull gently to avoid any damage.
  • Tilt the top of the logic board away from the rear enclosure.

  • Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac.

  • Be careful not to snag the board on any of the rear case's screw posts.

  • The I/O boards at the bottom of the logic board will be the greatest challenge. It is recommended to pull gently to avoid any damage.

If you have a helper (or if you're very coordinated and careful), you can very likely lift up the logic board far enough to replace both RAM modules without pulling the logic board all the way out. Just be careful what you touch, of course.

phil - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Do '''not''' use excessive force to pull the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth Card away from its socket on the logic board. Doing so may damage the socket. Image 2/3: When reinstalling the card, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling the retaining screws. Image 3/3: When reinstalling the card, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling the retaining screws.
  • Slightly lift the AirPort/Bluetooth card and pull it straight out its socket.

  • Do not use excessive force to pull the end of the AirPort/Bluetooth Card away from its socket on the logic board. Doing so may damage the socket.

  • When reinstalling the card, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling the retaining screws.

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Image 1/3: The RAM module should pop up slightly from its socket. Image 2/3: Grab the top left and right corners of the RAM module and carefully pull it straight out of its socket. Image 3/3: Repeat the process to remove additional RAM modules as necessary.
  • Release the tabs on each side of the RAM module by simultaneously pushing each tab away.

  • The RAM module should pop up slightly from its socket.

  • Grab the top left and right corners of the RAM module and carefully pull it straight out of its socket.

  • Repeat the process to remove additional RAM modules as necessary.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Grasp the hard drive power connector and gently pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/3: While pressing on the clip with your thumb, lift and disconnect the SATA data connector from its socket on the logic board. Image 2/3: While pressing on the clip with your thumb, lift and disconnect the SATA data connector from its socket on the logic board. Image 3/3: While pressing on the clip with your thumb, lift and disconnect the SATA data connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • The SATA data connector has a clip that must be pressed to allow removal.

  • While pressing on the clip with your thumb, lift and disconnect the SATA data connector from its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/1: Remove the two T8 screws from the exhaust port end of the heat sink.
  • The following screws secure the heat sink to the logic board:

    • Remove the two T8 screws from the exhaust port end of the heat sink.

    • Loosen, but do not remove, the four captive T8 screws securing the CPU end of the heat sink.

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Image 1/2: When reassembling your iMac, follow our [guide|744|thermal paste application guide] to reapply the thermal paste. Image 2/2: Logic board remains.
  • Slowly lift and remove the heat sink from the logic board.

  • When reassembling your iMac, follow our thermal paste application guide to reapply the thermal paste.

  • Logic board remains.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

One other person completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

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