iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 and 2210 Inverter Replacement

Use this guide to replace your inverter.

Edit Step 1 Access Door  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Access Door  ¶ 

  • Loosen the single Phillips screw in the center of the access door.

  • This screw is captive in the access door.

  • Remove the access door from your iMac.

Edit Step 2 Glass Panel  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2 Glass Panel  ¶ 

  • The glass panel is fixed onto the front bezel with fourteen magnets around its perimeter.

  • Stick two suction cups to opposing corners of the glass panel.

  • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

  • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent such as Windex.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Gently pull the glass panel straight up off the iMac.

  • The glass panel has several positioning pins around its perimeter. To avoid shearing these pins off the glass panel, be sure to only pull straight up during removal.

  • Be meticulous about cleaning the LCD and the inside face of the glass panel before reinstallation, as any fingerprints or dust trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the display is on. Placing the glass flat, inside face down, on a fresh aluminum-foil surface is a good way to keep it clean.

Edit Step 4 Front Bezel  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4 Front Bezel  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 12 screws securing the front bezel to the rear case:

    • Eight 13 mm T8 Torx.

    • Four 25 mm T8 Torx.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the microphone cable connector, removing tape as necessary.

  • For the front bezel to sit properly, be sure to tuck the microphone cable and connector into the void next to the camera board.

Edit Step 6 Display Panel  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6 Display Panel  ¶ 

  • Pull the LCD temperature sensor connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • If necessary, de-route the LCD temperature sensor cable from behind the logic board.

  • When you remove the LCD, check the routing of the LCD temperature display cable. On reinstalling the display, be sure this cable does not block one of the bottom screws for the front bezel.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the data display cable to the logic board.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Use the attached black tab to pull the data display cable connector away from the logic board.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the eight 12 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display panel to the rear case.

  • Lift the display panel from its left edge and rotate it toward the right edge of the iMac.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • With the display panel still lifted, disconnect the four inverter cables.

  • During reinstallation, place the four inverter cable connectors in voids between components attached to the rear panel so the display panel will sit flush.

  • During reassembly, the order of the inverter cables is interchangeable within each socket.

  • If you are replacing a hard drive and have an extra set of hands, it is possible to reach in and remove the drive without disconnecting anything but the LCD temp and display connector in the previous step with the LCD in its propped position.

Edit Step 11 Optical Drive  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11 Optical Drive  ¶ 

  • If necessary, remove the pieces of tape securing the hard drive/optical drive thermal sensor cables to your iMac.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the logic board by pulling its connector toward the top of your iMac.

  • When removing this connector, it is helpful use your thumbnails to push the ears on either side of the connector toward the top of your iMac.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the two fine-thread 7 mm T10 Torx screws securing the optical drive to the rear case.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Lift the free end of the optical drive slightly out of the rear case.

  • Remove the two 3.5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the optical drive connector to the optical drive.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the optical drive connector and the body of the optical drive.

  • Twist the spudger to separate the connector from the optical drive.

  • It may be necessary to work from alternating sides of the connector until it is disconnected.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Lift the optical drive out of the rear case and pull it away from the side of the rear case to release the strip of EMI tape attached to its surface.

  • The optical drive thermal sensor is still attached to the underside of the optical drive.

Edit Step 17 Inverter  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17 Inverter  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 13 mm T10 Torx screws securing the inverter to the rear case.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Pull the inverter away from the chassis and lift it slightly out of the rear case.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the inverter cable by simultaneously squeezing the locking mechanism and pulling the connector away from its socket.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Lift the metal case off the inverter.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 and 2210 device page.

Required Tools

TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

T6 Torx Screwdriver

$9.95 · 10 In stock

Phillips #1 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

isn't it actually pc2-5300s ?

grze, · Reply

At this stage and later handling the LCD I found thin cotton gloves helped to reduce smudges

john31, · Reply

My GPS unit's car mount suction cup worked nicely here - couldn't find any at the store and didn't want to wait for mail order!

Two cups would make it easier but one is fine if you place it in the center and are careful to pull the panel straight out.

Mathew Hendry, · Reply

Why use suction cups when some finger nails will do the job nicely, though a plastic spudger might work too. Start at a top corner. Prize the glass away from the case and leave finger nails in. Move the other hand along the top edge and then with finger spread peel the screen cover away. Be careful not to twist plastic I suppose, but I've had no difficulties.

damianwise, · Reply

3M Command Strip hooks in opposite corners is another fabulous option when suction cups are not available!

Adam McCombs, · Reply

Tape works fine, here. Search for a YouTube video for a simple look-see.

Richard, · Reply

I didn't have any suction cups, but my pencil sharpener (the kind that suctions to the table) worked great. I put it on the middle and lifted straight up.

Lisa Mac, · Reply

For a quick 'n' dirty alternative "tool" for this step, take a look at IKEA's Stugvik suction hooks: they provide an excellent adjustable grip. Just used it to take apart an EMC2133. Cheers!

hadderakk, · Reply

In order to avoid unnecessary smudges and what not I covered the LCD itself with some plastic wrap while doing the hard drive upgrade. When I reinstalled it all I needed to do was blow off a few dust particles.

robgendreau, · Reply

While you are at it, it is worth cleaning out dust within the case to help with cooling - particularly around the fans and vents.

For the screen I used a lens cleaner from my camera bag. These have very fine fibers and won't leave detritus.

Mathew Hendry, · Reply

Note that the front glass panel is quite light. When reassembling I found it impossible to get the LCD free of dust with the computer lying on its back. I had success with standing the computer up, tilting the LCD down as far as it goes, holding the glass panel upright in front of the computer (about 1 foot away), lightly spraying both the LCD and the back side of the glass panel with compressed air, and then attaching the glass panel (with the computer upright). It took me 5 tries before it was completely clean of dust once the front glass was on.

axel, · Reply

On the 24" EMC2134 there are 3 screw sizes: 6x13, 4x20 & 2x30mm, particular note should be made of their location.

john31, · Reply

Note for the less experienced.. the case is plastic and the metal coarse thread screws will easily cut a new thread in the hole if you don't line up the screw in the original thread. Do this a few times and the hole will be stripped and the screw no longer tightens.

TIP:- place the screw in the hole and rotate BACKWARDS/counter clockwise (for RH threads) until you hear/feel it click/drop into the original thread then tighten the screw down. rotate it a couple times to get the feel of things. If there is any significant resistance you probably don't have the original thread.

This trick also works on the fine metal thread screws and can help avoid cross threading them.

HIH

Richdave, · Reply

On the 24 inch iMac Model A1225 EMC #2134, the two T8 Torx screws in the middle are the longer of the four total bottom 25 mm screws. Just a note for reassembly.

bhoffs, · Reply

This step is not really explained here with pictures. But you can check this same step in another guide to help you : https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iMac+Intel+...

thibault, · Reply

I'll echo Thibault's comment. This guide does not actually tell you when and/or how to remove the bezel! Click on the other guide he linked to see the photo and instructions.

steven, · Reply

I avoided this step by just flipping the housing over and having it lay flat on the table. The tape on mine was on really tight, and I risking ripping the wires out of the connector if I messed with it (I didn't have some really small scissors which might have helped removing it). I would suggest either securing the body of the iMac and the housing to the table you're working on, or somehow securing the housing to the body, so that it doesn't move around accidentally, since it's only hanging on by a very thin wire at that point.

robgendreau, · Reply

Make sure you do not pull this apart by the wires. Have a firm grasp on the plastic parts. Do not force back together. It only goes back together one way. Also, it is crucial when placing the aluminum bezel back in place that this wire is out of the way. It often gets in the way and is easily damaged.

Kyle Freeman, · Reply

CAUTION - To disconnect the cable, you'll need to support the bezel while you carefully extract slack microphone cable which is tightly tucked within the iMac. (I didn't have this guide's 'notes on' and missed robgendreau's warning - then inadvertently shifted the bezel and busted my microphone cable in this step.)

dagnew, · Reply

Don't forget to pull the microphone cord out before you put the panel back on. Otherwise you will have to go back and remove screws to find that microphone cord

Melvin Hines, · Reply

As robgendreau says, avoid this whole step by opening the bezel and laying it upside down above the iMac, still connected by the mic cord, just carefully. Then replace the battery, suck/blow out your dust, and carefully rotate the front bezel back over the iMac from where you removed it. No cord manipulation or damage at all!

recmsoj, · Reply

This was the most confusing step, because the video shows MJ just tilting the monitor open, and I had a ribbon cable hooked up to it. Finally figured out that the ribbon cable was connected to the LCD temp sensor cable, and it was neatly tucked under the adjacent fan. Had to pull it pretty hard to get it out from under the fan, and then could tilt the LCD. Instructions are not completely clear about this, only that you may have to reroute the cable around the motherboard.

d3nn151950, · Reply

I agree, there is no sign of how to remove the bezel (it took me several minutes to understand it was even the bezel that came off here) in these steps (in all the guides for this model, in fact). On step 4 says remove the LCD screws, and suddenly step 6 shows innards and fans etc - !! - What about showing the bezel being removed here - super confusing and not up to usual ifixit high standards.

hutchwilco, · Reply

My Torx 6 driver purchased from ifixit didn't fit the screws well and potentially would strip them. Had to purchase a better driver to fit better in order to loosen these screws.

kakisback, · Reply

reinstalling these screws requires extra care to be sure you don't drop it and loose it under any of the other components.

kakisback, · Reply

Make sure not to drop the screws.

ulan, · Reply

Removing these screws was the most difficult part of the whole job. They were tight and felt as if the heads were about to chew up. I had to press really hard and jerk the screwdriver counter clockwise to loosen them. Despite others' warnings, I managed to drop a screw when reinserting.

kevinp, · Reply

The only tool I needed to buy was the T6 Star Bit - the first auto store I went to had it. These screws are tiny so you have to be careful not to drop them!

James Miles, · Reply

When reinstalling these tiny screws, consider placing the iMac upright. That way when you (inevitably) drop these tiny screws, you don't lose them in the guts of the computer where they are likely to fall into a fan.

stown1211, · Reply

Yes, this step is very difficult. I finally used a magnet to magnetize the torx driver, and that helped immensely...however, that was AFTER I lost the right one inside the computer. You really only need one screw to reattach the monitor connector, however.

d3nn151950, · Reply

Argh! I dropped my right screw into the bowels of the iMac. I can't find it anywhere and am loath to leave it rattling around as well as to tear down the machine any further.

steven macfarlane, · Reply

Well, I followed the instructions for right-speaker removal and optical drive fan removal and still couldn't find the right screw. I couldn't hear it rattle either so figured it was wedged somewhere. Using an inspection mirror and flashlight, I finally found it. It had fallen down and wedged between the PCB and the plastic housing (below the ports). I was able to slide it toward the right until it came to the void left by the right speaker where it fell out into my hand.

steven macfarlane,

It's true, these were super tight. I only had a T5 which worked on the first screw, but the second wouldn't budge. Ended up filing the tip off the T5 bit - presto! - instant T6.

marcintosh, · Reply

I Think the real screw size is 3.5 mm T6 Torx, not 5.3 mm

raul, · Reply

Dropped those little bastards like 2-3 times into the deeps of my iMac. The right one is really tricky. If you drop it: better get yourself very thin tweezers and gently shake your mac. :(

Popelnase, · Reply

Note that just below where you are working is the PRAM battery. If you have never replaced this, now is a good time so you won't have to open the machine up again in the near future. The battery is a CR2032.

mattgauntt, · Reply

Taking all the warnings into account about losing these tiny screws, during removal and replacement I held onto the screws tightly with a very fine needle nose tweezer. Fortunately I managed not to lose them either out or in. I highly recommend using a small gripper during this step.

recmsoj, · Reply

This step together with step 8 can be avoided. Leave this cable alone. You will have plenty of space to lift the LCD and rest it against a wall or any other object. Again...

1) don't waste your time if you know what you are doing

2) don't complicate things and remove unecessary cables.

Scorps, · Reply

This is true. There's plenty of space to work without taking the whole LCD out, either by resting it on your head, having someone hold it, or propping it on something. This makes steps 7, 8, and 10 unnecessary.

hillman,

I was able to disconnect the two connectors to the front easily. With those off, I just rotated the LCD out of the way to expose the hard drive. Again, make sure it's stabilized if you do this so that when you yank on something else you don't send it flying.

robgendreau, · Reply

I did a HD replacement on my 24 inch iMac. It's basically the same, but it does not have disconnectable invertercables. Instead, there's just one cable that's can't be disconnected. It sits too tight to rotate the display to the degree that you can lean it against something, so the only way to get the job done was to call in an extra set of hands to hold the display while I took out the hard drive.

Marijn, · Reply

On the 2134 model, I found that the LCD must be lifted from the RIGHT (not the left as per the 2133 guide) - the connector wires are covered in nylon housing and it's way easier just having someone hold the LCD vertical whilst you replace the HDD, unless you have small fingers and feel like disconnecting completely ...

simon, · Reply

During reassembly, make sure that the data and temperature cables will reach their sockets before inserting the eight screws.

kevinp, · Reply

Make sure to not squeeze the inverter-cables between the superdrive and the display when putting the display back on !

epzzky, · Reply

This was the only step different for my 2134 - it is just one cable that connects to the monitor - disconnect the monitor end rather than the motherboard side.

Jim Laredo, · Reply

There is no need to discnnect the inverter cables if display is positioned against a wall or something of the sort. Make sure it doesn't tumble over !!!

info5825, · Reply

For 24" iMacs, a single power cable is attached on the left side of the screen. To remove the cable, lift the screen from the right side and rotate it to the left. Remove the black plastic protector on the back of the screen and disconnect the cable.

Matt Stichnoth, · Reply

Make sure you squeeze the two ends of the inverter cable together firmly - if not you will get yellow areas on your screen. One of my cables had not quite been clicked together, and I had to unscrew everything all over again.

Philip, · Reply

So does it matter which ones are connected to which?

That is, at each end there are two connectors (one pink/black the other light blue/dark blue on the "male" side). The "female side appear identical. Does it matter if the pink/black "male" one is connected to the wrong "female" one?

Mark Gibson, · Reply

Mark, did you ever get an answer about the connectors?

Mike,

Managed to avoid this step just lifting the lcd panel and holding it with my... head ;)

Antonio Bernardini, · Reply

I'm trying to find some information on replacing the power supply temperature sensor cable. Mine broke during removal of a bad power supply.

Mike Overholt, · Reply

found out that taking the 2 inverter cables (top right corner underneath LCD) and mixing them will not work. I got beeping sound. So...you really need to mark the 2 white sockets with P (pink) and B (for light blue-gray color). Then everything will come out smoothly. Again... inserting the 2 inverter cable sets into the right socket DOES MATTER.

Scorps, · Reply

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