iMac Intel 17" Front Bezel Replacement

Prerequisite Only

Prerequisite Only

Please note that this guide is only a prerequisite for other guides.

Remove the front bezel to gain access to your iMac's innards.

4 Edit Step 1 Access Door  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Remove the access door from the iMac.

4 Edit Step 1 Access Door  ¶ 

  • Loosen the two captive Phillips screws securing the access door to the iMac.

  • Remove the access door from the iMac.

  • Before beginning the repair, unplug the computer and press and hold the power switch for 20-30 seconds, to discharge internal capacitors.

2 Edit Step 2 Front Bezel  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Three 6 mm T8 Torx.

2 Edit Step 2 Front Bezel  ¶ 

  • Remove the following four screws:

    • Three 6 mm T8 Torx.

    • One 8 mm T8 Torx.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

Image 1/2: To lift the front bezel off the iMac, simultaneously:

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Flip your iMac over and lay it stand-side down on a flat surface.

  • To lift the front bezel off the iMac, simultaneously:

    • Use your thumbs to press in the RAM arms and hold the iMac down.

    • Use your index fingers to pull the small bridge of material on the front bezel toward yourself.

    • Pull the Front bezel up with your index fingers.

  • Once the small bridge of material has cleared the RAM arms, lift the front bezel by its lower edge just enough to clear the bottom edge of the rear case.

5 Edit Step 4  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot near the top of the rear case.

5 Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Re-orient your iMac so it sits upright on the stand.

  • Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot near the top of the rear case.

  • Push the card toward the top of the iMac to release the front bezel latch.

  • Pull the front bezel away from the rear case.

  • Repeat this process for the other side of the front bezel.

  • It may be necessary to apply several layers of duct tape to the top of the access card to aid in releasing the latches.

  • If the bezel refuses to release, try pressing the lower edge back onto the rear case and repeat this opening process.

1 Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Lift the front bezel from its lower edge and rotate it away from the rest of your iMac, minding the RAM arms that may get caught.

1 Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Lay your iMac stand-side down on a table.

  • Lift the front bezel from its lower edge and rotate it away from the rest of your iMac, minding the RAM arms that may get caught.

  • Lay the front bezel above the rest of the iMac.

2 Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

2 Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • If necessary, remove the piece of kapton tape(it is ok to toss this) wrapped around the microphone and camera cables.

2 Edit Step 7  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

2 Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Disconnect both the camera and microphone cables.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Now that you've finished, share your repair story with others.

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16 Comments

That is a really, really unnecessarily complex way of fitting a new hard drive. Thanks, but no thanks...

annax - Reply

Quote from annax:

That is a really, really unnecessarily complex way of fitting a new hard drive. Thanks, but no thanks...

annax, if you can suggest a simpler way we're all ears!

Jake Simmonds - Reply

I found this guide to be very useful. The installation was super easy, especially since I've never opened my iMac before. I was able to skip steps 6, 7, 9, 10 and 14. Wish I had one of those long skinny magnetic torx screwdriver's though. I had to use duct tape to hold the screws on the end of the bit for step 12.

I used this opportunity to vacuum out the dust with mini attachments. Much needed after 3 years ;0)

Awesome site!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and saving me time and $$$!

Eric Patten - Reply

Yes I did it! thanks for this very good manual

Philippe d Anfray - Reply

T8's on the MA590LL 17" iMac.

Endareth - Reply

8mm screw is 2nd from left - useful when reassembly

Stefano Speriani - Reply

Apple uses a powerful magnet to release these latches, but the official tool is not available. If you have access to a few failed hard drives, you can take out the magnets from those, and stack them up to have a magnet strong enough to easily open these latches.

Simply place the magnet on an upper corner of the machine, and when you hear a click, gently pull the corner of the front case forward. Repeat the process for the other upper corner. Use care not to pull on the iSight cables.

Note: Use care when handling the hard drive magnets, they are powerful, and you don't want them to snap together on your fingers. OUCH!

Zaphod - Reply

You can use a credit card. Mine survived, though it did get a little bent.

David Bendory - Reply

I used two credit cards for extra thickness and the latches released very easily.

James French - Reply

The magnetic latches are about 2-3 cm from the left and right edges right at the top edge of the case. I just ran a rare-earth magnet over the from of the bezel in this area. You can hear it click when it disengages. RadioShack has these kind of magnets for $3, the call them "super magnets".

James - Reply

This was a nuisance. Had to really move the card around to get it to finally release.

Tim Dougherty - Reply

I found that it is much easier if you remove the top of the case first, then lay computer back on the stand & remove the bottom as directed.

G A Long - Reply

I was able to skip Steps 6 & 7 entirely. The microphone and camera cables had enough slack to flip the front cover off and lie it flat above the rest of the computer.

Carly Hobeef - Reply

Step 4 is completely unnessecary. Just lift the bezel up and wiggle it until the metal clips let go. Then lift the bezel straight up.

Cloudsurfer - Reply

Make sure the white wire is on the same side of both parts of the connector before reconnecting.

It is possible to reconnect the microphone cable in the wrong/reversed orientation with the connector. The microphone will still work but will be muted and result in a "tinny" sound on the receiver's end.

creecher - Reply

Can anyone ID these connectors (at least the camera connector) so that I may make an extension (to move the camera out and re-house it myself). I probably have the gear to do the mic already.

Is the camera connector some standard I can order M & F versions online to terminate to an extension cable?

hutchwilco - Reply