Introduction

Is your iMac dead to the world? A fried power supply could be the problem.

Image 1/1: Remove the two Phillips screws securing the access door to the bottom grille of your iMac.
  • Orient the iMac face-side down on a table with the bottom edge facing yourself.

  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the access door to the bottom grille of your iMac.

  • The screws are captive in the access door.

  • Before beginning the repair, unplug the computer and press and hold the power switch for 20-30 seconds, to discharge internal capacitors.

As you remove the screws during these steps, place them on a towel or a piece of cardboard. With a Sharpie label a piece of masking tape with the step number from which they were taken from. Then place the removed screws under the tape.

This ongoing step will aid in you having control on your reassembly without searching for and identifying the size and length all the screws that you are about to remove.

R51801 - Reply

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  • Remove the access door.

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  • Remove the three T8 Torx screws securing the front bezel to the rear case along the lower edge of the iMac.

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Image 1/2: Use your thumbs to press both RAM arms in past the front bezel for enough clearance to lift it off the rear case. Image 2/2: Use your thumbs to press both RAM arms in past the front bezel for enough clearance to lift it off the rear case.
  • Turn the computer over.

  • Use your thumbs to press both RAM arms in past the front bezel for enough clearance to lift it off the rear case.

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  • While holding the RAM arms in with your thumbs, lift the lower edge of the front bezel enough to clear the rear case.

you might have more luck by gently leveraging the stand up

Joseph A Borg - Reply

Image 1/3: Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot near the top of the rear case. Image 2/3: Push the card toward the top of the iMac to release the front bezel latch. Image 3/3: Pull the front bezel away from the rear case.
  • Re-orient your iMac so it sits upright on the stand.

  • Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot near the top of the rear case.

  • Push the card toward the top of the iMac to release the front bezel latch.

  • Pull the front bezel away from the rear case.

  • Repeat this process for the other side of the front bezel.

  • It may be necessary to apply several layers of duct tape to the top of the access card to aid in releasing the latches.

  • If the bezel refuses to release, try pressing the lower edge back onto the rear case and repeat this opening process.

  • Alternatively, you can use a strong magnet by holding it to the front top left/right corner of the display. You will hear a snapping sound when the hatch is released.

If it still does not release try pressing in and out (like an accordion) with the card in one hand and the screen bezel in the other until it pops loose.

rick - Reply

Image 1/1: Lift the front bezel from its lower edge and rotate it away from the rest of your iMac, minding the RAM arms that may get caught.
  • Lay your iMac stand-side down on a table.

  • Lift the front bezel from its lower edge and rotate it away from the rest of your iMac, minding the RAM arms that may get caught.

  • Lay the front bezel above the rest of the iMac.

My A1145 seems to be attached, somehow, on the top via some silver looking strips. It does not seems to want to come off. Is that the wireless?

Chris Arnold - Reply

NO they are clamps on each of the top inside corners of the outside bezel (frame ) if you use a Heavy Spudger Tool & pry not too hard just slightly between the bezel (side) and the display (side) this should pop each off usually by just popping one or the other sides the second will automatically pop as well.

Mark Meininger -

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  • If necessary, remove the piece of kapton tape wrapped around the microphone and camera connectors.

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  • Disconnect both the camera and microphone cables.

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Image 1/1: It is not necessary to peel the lower EMI shield off the display.
  • Peel the lower EMI shield off the lower edge of the iMac and off the two vertical 4" sections on either side of the iMac.

  • It is not necessary to peel the lower EMI shield off the display.

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  • Tape the lower EMI shield up against the face of the display to keep it out of the way while you work.

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  • Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable connector to the logic board.

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  • To disconnect the display data cable, grab its connector's black tab and pull it away from the face of the logic board.

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Image 1/1: During reassembly, it is helpful to use several small strips of tape to hold the EMI shielding along the left and right edges of the display footprint out of the way before lowering the display into the rear case of your iMac.
  • Peel back the two EMI tape strips from the left and right edges of the display.

  • During reassembly, it is helpful to use several small strips of tape to hold the EMI shielding along the left and right edges of the display footprint out of the way before lowering the display into the rear case of your iMac.

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Image 1/2: Bit drivers tend to be too short to reach these screws. Be sure to have a magnetic thin-shafted T10 Torx screwdriver on hand. Image 2/2: Bit drivers tend to be too short to reach these screws. Be sure to have a magnetic thin-shafted T10 Torx screwdriver on hand.
  • Remove the four recessed T10 Torx screws securing the display to the rear case.

  • Bit drivers tend to be too short to reach these screws. Be sure to have a magnetic thin-shafted T10 Torx screwdriver on hand.

When I removed the 4 screws, my bit wasn't magnetic enough to pick them out and they fell in. I could only retrieve 2 of them. Have a strong magnetic bit! Lucky for me, I was only using this guide to remove the hard drive so I could recycle my old computer.

Ruth - Reply

Image 1/1: Disconnect both inverter cables (shown in red) by pulling their connectors toward the bottom edge of your iMac.
  • Lift the lower edge of the display slightly out of the rear case.

  • Disconnect both inverter cables (shown in red) by pulling their connectors toward the bottom edge of your iMac.

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Image 1/1: Disconnect the remaining two inverter cables (shown in red) by pulling their connectors toward the top edge of your iMac.
  • Lift the display until it is nearly perpendicular to the rear case.

  • Disconnect the remaining two inverter cables (shown in red) by pulling their connectors toward the top edge of your iMac.

Steps 17 and 18 are not strictly necessary if one simply props up the LCD display into a vertical position while the hard drive is removed and replaced. It worked for me anyway!

I would like to send out a big thank you to Andrew Bookholt for submitting this extremely helpful guide!

Mark Orwoll

Mark Orwoll - Reply

Prop the screen with something soft (plastic or wood) so as not to scratch the screen coating.

Mark - Reply

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  • While holding the display perpendicular to the rear case, pull it upward to peel off the EMI shield stuck to its upper edge.

If you are changing the power supply - this is a good point to remove the screws to the old power supply to see if the connectors (both of them) are accessible. If you can gently (but firmly) pull the power connector out from under the chassis, you can install the new unit at this step - saving hours of work.

philaro - Reply

See note to step 44 to easyly remove the power supply without dismantling the whole computer (as also suggested by philaro).

danman - Reply

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  • Disconnect the IR board cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the IR board.

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  • Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the IR board bracket to the IR board.

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  • De-route the IR cable from under the aluminum heat sink and tuck it behind the optical drive to keep it out of the way.

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Image 1/2: The screw for the left speaker has coarse threads. Image 2/2: Lift the left speaker out of the rear case and de-route its cable across the logic board.
  • Remove the single T10 Torx screw securing the left speaker to the rear case.

  • The screw for the left speaker has coarse threads.

  • Lift the left speaker out of the rear case and de-route its cable across the logic board.

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Image 1/2: The right speaker screw has fine threads. Image 2/2: Lift the right speaker out of the rear case, minding the short cable between the speaker and its connector (located slightly above the right speaker).
  • Remove the single T10 Torx screw securing the right speaker to the rear case.

  • The right speaker screw has fine threads.

  • Lift the right speaker out of the rear case, minding the short cable between the speaker and its connector (located slightly above the right speaker).

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  • Disconnect the speakers from the logic board by pulling their connector toward the top edge of the iMac.

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  • Remove the two Phillips or two T6 Torx screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board to the logic board.

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Image 1/1: Lift the board from its left edge '''only'''.
  • Use your finger to lift the AirPort/Bluetooth board from its left edge, disconnecting it from the logic board.

  • Lift the board from its left edge only.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up off the AirPort/Bluetooth board.

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Image 1/2: After both locking arms pass their retaining tabs, it is helpful to push the arms toward the top edge of your iMac while wiggling the connector. Image 2/2: After both locking arms pass their retaining tabs, it is helpful to push the arms toward the top edge of your iMac while wiggling the connector.
  • Disconnect the DC-in cable by simultaneously depressing both locking arms and pulling its connector away from the socket on the logic board toward the top of your iMac.

  • After both locking arms pass their retaining tabs, it is helpful to push the arms toward the top edge of your iMac while wiggling the connector.

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  • Disconnect the ambient light sensor by pulling its connector away from the face of the logic board.

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Image 1/2: To aid in removal, it is helpful to use both of your thumbnails to push the ears on either side of the connector toward the top edge of the iMac. Image 2/2: To aid in removal, it is helpful to use both of your thumbnails to push the ears on either side of the connector toward the top edge of the iMac.
  • Disconnect the optical drive fan from the logic board.

  • To aid in removal, it is helpful to use both of your thumbnails to push the ears on either side of the connector toward the top edge of the iMac.

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Image 1/2: This connector is especially wide and prone to breakage. Image 2/2: To aid in removal, it is helpful to use one hand to pinch the cables against a spudger and pull up toward the top edge of the iMac while pulling up gently on the cables with your other hand.
  • Disconnect the IR/camera cable from the logic board.

  • This connector is especially wide and prone to breakage.

  • To aid in removal, it is helpful to use one hand to pinch the cables against a spudger and pull up toward the top edge of the iMac while pulling up gently on the cables with your other hand.

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  • Disconnect the optical drive thermal sensor cable from the logic board by pulling its connector toward the left edge of the iMac.

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  • Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the optical drive connector to the logic board.

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Image 1/1: It is helpful to insert the spudger under the top or bottom edge of the connector and twist to separate the connector from the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector up off the logic board.

  • It is helpful to insert the spudger under the top or bottom edge of the connector and twist to separate the connector from the logic board.

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  • Disconnect the CPU fan from the logic board by pulling its connector toward the top edge of the iMac.

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  • Disconnect the hard drive thermal sensor from the logic board by pulling its connector toward the top edge of the iMac.

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  • Disconnect the hard drive fan by pulling its connector away from the face of the logic board.

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  • Disconnect the power button cable by pulling its connector away from the face of the logic board.

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  • Remove the two T6 Torx screws near the top of the heat sinks.

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Image 1/1: Three coarse-thread T10 Torx.
  • Remove the following seven screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

    • Three coarse-thread T10 Torx.

    • Three fine-thread T10 Torx.

    • One long coarse-thread T10 Torx.

Two T10s are reversed. The bottom T10 to the right of the RAM should be fine-thread. The one directly above it should be coarse-thread.

mike - Reply

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  • Tuck the RAM arms into the iMac so they rest on the perforated metal grille along its lower edge.

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Image 1/1: Pull the right edge of the logic board toward yourself slightly to free the I/O ports from the rear case, being careful not to bend the board.
  • Rotate the top of the logic board toward yourself slightly.

  • Pull the right edge of the logic board toward yourself slightly to free the I/O ports from the rear case, being careful not to bend the board.

  • Continue rotating the board toward yourself until you have enough room to reach the SATA connector, shown in the next step.

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Image 1/2: Insert the blunt end of a metal spudger between the SATA connector and its socket. Twist the shaft of the metal spudger to separate the connector from its socket. Image 2/2: Disconnect the SATA cable from the logic board.
  • Continue rotating the board toward yourself until you have enough room to reach the SATA connector (shown in red).

  • Insert the blunt end of a metal spudger between the SATA connector and its socket. Twist the shaft of the metal spudger to separate the connector from its socket.

  • Disconnect the SATA cable from the logic board.

  • Lift the logic board out of the rear case by its edges, minding any cables that may get caught.

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Image 1/1: If necessary, remove the yellow kapton tape covering the AC-in cable.
  • The next few steps bring your hands close to the exposed face of the power supply. Do not touch the face of the power supply to avoid a high voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board.

  • If necessary, remove the yellow kapton tape covering the AC-in cable.

These pictures show the view with the large central heatsink removed. You don't actually have to remove this, but you will then have to remove the AC-in cable from the left of the chassis member, rather than from the right (as shown). You can do this by unscrewing the power supply board first (4 screws) and then moving it slightly to the left so that you can access the AC-in cable.

Peter Mullans - Reply

If you came here right from step 18 you may first jump to step 47 (the screws) and afterwards lift the power source a little to release the short AC-in cable (and then do steps 45, 46, 48, 49).

danman - Reply

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  • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the AC-in cable out from underneath the chassis.

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  • Disconnect the AC-in cable by depressing the lock mechanism while pulling the connector away from its socket.

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Image 1/1: The fine-thread screw belongs in the lower right corner of the power supply. When reinstalling the power supply, install the fine-threaded screw first.
  • Remove the four T10 Torx screws securing the power supply to the rear case.

  • The fine-thread screw belongs in the lower right corner of the power supply. When reinstalling the power supply, install the fine-threaded screw first.

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Image 1/1: Do not touch the face of the power supply board to avoid electric shock.
  • Lift the power supply out of the rear case, minding the AC-in cable that may get caught.

  • Do not touch the face of the power supply board to avoid electric shock.

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Image 1/2: Wiggling the connector while pulling it aids in removal. Image 2/2: Wiggling the connector while pulling it aids in removal.
  • While holding the power supply by its edges with one hand, use your other hand to disconnect the DC-DC cable connector near the left edge of the power supply.

  • Wiggling the connector while pulling it aids in removal.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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5 Comments

The images on this stage show the heat shield, cpu and associated pipework as removed but these steps are not included in the inbstructions

Andrew Stephens - Reply

Sorry about that, the guide should be fixed now.

Andrew Bookholt -

Thank you for this detailed an accurate manual! I would propose to change/shorten the manual with a jump from step 18 right to 44 (see the notes in this two steps).

danman - Reply

Step 40 Sorry, I didn't notice that someone had already commented. The fine threaded (orange) and course threaded (red) screws at the bottom of the machine are reversed. Just need to switch the circles on these two. Anybody know how to work with the images for the manual?

Scott - Reply

Thanks to you, my iMac G5 20" goes on living!

David - Reply

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