Introduction

Use this guide to replace a damaged clutch cover.

Image 1/2: Lift the battery out of the computer. Image 2/2: Lift the battery out of the computer.
  • Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

  • Lift the battery out of the computer.

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Image 1/1: If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw (shown in orange) 180 degrees in either direction and try again.
  • Pull the keyboard release tabs (shown in yellow) toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.

  • If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw (shown in orange) 180 degrees in either direction and try again.

  • Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.

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Image 1/1: These screws will not come out all the way. The screws are held captive to the RAM shield to prevent them from getting lost.
  • Loosen the four silver Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.

  • These screws will not come out all the way. The screws are held captive to the RAM shield to prevent them from getting lost.

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Image 1/1: The four captive screws will come out with the RAM shield.
  • Remove the RAM shield from the computer.

  • The four captive screws will come out with the RAM shield.

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Image 1/1: When reassembling your iBook, make sure that you reconnect the keyboard cable before replacing the RAM shield.
  • Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.

  • When reassembling your iBook, make sure that you reconnect the keyboard cable before replacing the RAM shield.

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Image 1/1: Remove the three hex screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.
  • Close the display and flip the computer over.

  • Remove the three hex screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.

  • The shorter screw is in the center.

Oop's sorry on my earlier note I meant to say in step 2

Keith - Reply

In my iBook G4 (Fr), there's no T8 Torx but nut driver.

boninj - Reply

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  • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

Be careful, the rubber feet tend to jump out and get lost.

Lakshmana - Reply

Image 1/1: One screw is underneath each bumper (three total).
  • Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.

  • One screw is underneath each bumper (three total).

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Image 1/1:
  • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.

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Image 1/1: Push in the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.
  • Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.

  • Push in the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

This part scared me, never in an iFixIt guide have I seen a warning like "trying times are ahead".

I used a plastic iPod opening tool and ran it around the seam in the same order pictured. I had the plastic off in less than a minute with almost no fuss.

PohTayToez - Reply

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  • There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

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Image 1/1:
  • Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

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Image 1/1:
  • Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.

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  • There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.

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Image 1/1: Turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free.
  • The front and sides of the lower case are now free.

  • Turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free.

  • It may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down.

I found it easier and "safer" to use a spudge at the back as well (two on each side of the hinge)

Paulix - Reply

Quote from Paulix:

I found it easier and "safer" to use a spudge at the back as well (two on each side of the hinge)

I did too. Thanks, Paulix.

Ryan Cabanas - Reply

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  • Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.

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Image 1/1: Six 3 mm Phillips
  • Remove the following 10 screws from the bottom shield:

    • Six 3 mm Phillips

    • Three 7.5 mm Phillips

    • One 14 mm Phillips

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Image 1/1:
  • Lift the bottom shield off.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the single Phillips screw securing the DC-In board.

You might not need to remove the entire DC-In board and cable. This is removed because the DC-In jack blocks the upper case from being lifted off. I just removed the screw and pushed the board slightly in when removing the upper case to provide clearance. You may want to tape the board loosely in place when the screw is out to prevent it from falling out.

georgie333 - Reply

Image 1/1: You may need to remove tape that secures the DC-In board cable to the case.
  • Angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.

  • You may need to remove tape that secures the DC-In board cable to the case.

You need to undo the adhesive halfway down the cable, so you can lift the DC board to angle it out correctly. beefybov

beefybov - Reply

Quote from beefybov:

You need to undo the adhesive halfway down the cable, so you can lift the DC board to angle it out correctly. beefybov

Good call, beefybov.

Ryan Cabanas - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Lift the DC-In cable from the adhesive attaching it to the logic board.

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Image 1/1: Wiggling the connector parallel to the surface of the logic board while applying slight tension may aid in removal.
  • Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board.

  • Wiggling the connector parallel to the surface of the logic board while applying slight tension may aid in removal.

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Image 1/1: Three 3 mm Phillips around the battery compartment.
  • Remove the following 11 screws from the bottom of the computer:

    • Three 3 mm Phillips around the battery compartment.

    • Three 4.5 mm Phillips along the optical drive bezel. (a magnetic screwdriver may help to lift these screws out)

    • One 12 mm Phillips in the lower right corner.

    • Four 14.5 mm Phillips.

On my model, both left-side screws are short and the (lower) right screw is the long one.

axel - Reply

Ditto

Paulix -

Sorry, this note should be for Step 25!

axel - Reply

Image 1/1: Turn over the computer and open it.
  • We recommend placing the computer on a soft cloth from this point on to prevent damaging the logic board.

  • Turn over the computer and open it.

  • Remove the 3 Phillips screws from the edges of the keyboard area.

  • The shorter screw goes in the lower left corner. The left corner is indicated by a blue "L" in the photograph and is on the right side.

A soft cloth like the one you use to clean your screen with. Not a towel because of the static that might be built up in heavier fabrics.

2myownbeat - Reply

The picture has the lower *right* screw marked as "L" -- but that's a mistake; the short screw is, as described, on the lower LEFT side.

Peter King - Reply

On my computer, the screw in lower right marked "L" (long?) in the picture is M3x6mm and the other two are M3x3mm.

donestabrook - Reply

Long screw goes into the right bottom corner - and the 3 mm on the left - at least at the computer I did.

zhp - Reply

Yes, the LONG screw goes into the bottom RIGHT corner if the screen is facing you as it does when you're using the computer.

Sugar Fish - Reply

Image 1/1: Lift the upper case and use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab.
  • Be especially careful while disconnecting the cables in the forthcoming steps. Never pull directly on the cables, but use a spudger to pry up the connector directly from its socket.

  • Lift the upper case and use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab.

  • Be careful while lifting the upper case, as its tabs are still hanging on the metal frame.

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Image 1/1: Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails, carefully pry the connector from its socket.
  • The sockets attached to the motherboards of most iBooks are very weak and easily broken. Use extreme caution when pulling connectors out of their sockets.

  • Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails, carefully pry the connector from its socket.

  • Carefully disconnect the multicolored speaker cable from the logic board in the same fashion.

use 2 tweezers instead: One with a fine tip to hold down the female socket and the other (or your fingernails) to pry up the male connector. That way you can better prevent the female socket to break off from the motherboard.

Christian - Reply

This is a very tough one. I did break both the power cable and speaker cable off the motherboard, and was unable to separate the motherboard-side connectors from the cable-side connectors even after that. Fortunately, this iBook was already bricked.

Sugar Fish - Reply

Image 1/1: Thirteen 3 mm Phillips.
  • Remove the following 16 screws:

    • Thirteen 3 mm Phillips.

    • One 3 mm Phillips.

    • Two 4 mm Phillips.

  • During reassembly, be sure to fit the screw near the left hinge through the loop in the display data cable, securing the cable to the upper case.

on my model, the upper yellow screw and the orange screw were 3mm as well (red colour). So only the one right yellow screw was 4 mm.

Paulix - Reply

On my computer there is only one 4mm screw. The leftmost bottom right. The others are 3 mm. It is actually written on the shield: M2X3 = 3 mm. M2X4 = 4 mm.

Paulix - Reply

The little tabs on the shield that are intended to contact the metal on the ports and the optical drive had been flattened out on my iBook and were no longer in contact. I didn't notice this until I had installed the shield. Make sure the tabs are bent down a bit as to contact the ports and optical drive. This system looks like it replaced the foil tape on earlier models. Just my own observation.

randy3833 - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner which may catch on the metal framework.

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Image 1/1: Remove the two Phillips screws at the corners of the modem.
  • Remove the two Phillips screws at the corners of the modem.

  • Remove the two Phillips screws at the corners of the modem.

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Image 1/2: Be sure to pry only against the heat sink or the metal framework. Image 2/2: Use your hands to seperate the modem from the modem shield.
  • Use a spudger to pry the modem up from the end nearest the AirPort card to separate its connector from a socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure to pry only against the heat sink or the metal framework.

  • Use your hands to seperate the modem from the modem shield.

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Image 1/1: When replacing the modem, first make sure that both the microphone and display data cables are routed beneath where the modem lies.
  • Disconnect the RJ-11 cable from the end of the modem.

  • When replacing the modem, first make sure that both the microphone and display data cables are routed beneath where the modem lies.

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Image 1/1: Lift the AirPort card bracket up and out of the computer.
  • Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws securing the AirPort card bracket to the framework.

  • Lift the AirPort card bracket up and out of the computer.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 3 mm Phillips screws securing the AirPort card to the logic board.

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Image 1/1: Be sure to pry only between the metal frame and the AirPort card.
  • Using a spudger, pry up on the AirPort card from the end nearest the hard drive to separate the connector from the logic board.

  • Be sure to pry only between the metal frame and the AirPort card.

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Image 1/1: Remove the AirPort card from the computer and set it aside.
  • Use a spudger to disconnect the two antenna cables from the AirPort card.

  • Remove the AirPort card from the computer and set it aside.

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Image 1/1: Optical drive removal is not necessary for this step.
  • De-route the antenna wires from above the heat sink, around the RAM socket, and below the optical drive.

  • Optical drive removal is not necessary for this step.

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Image 1/1: Disconnect the inverter cable from the logic board and deroute it from the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.
  • Turn the computer over.

  • Disconnect the inverter cable from the logic board and deroute it from the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.

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Image 1/1: Use the black plastic loop to disconnect the display data cable from the logic board.
  • Turn the computer back over.

  • Use the black plastic loop to disconnect the display data cable from the logic board.

  • Deroute the microphone and display data cables from the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.

The 1.42GHz iBook display cable is different from the 933MHz display cable. They both fit but if you are replacing a 1.42Ghz screen with a 933MHz screen you will need to leave the modem off so you can bend the display cable to fit properly.

Nick - Reply

Image 1/1: Disconnect the microphone cable at the front of the computer, between the left side of the hard drive and the metal framework.
  • The cable you're about to remove is very fragile - do not pull directly on the wires. Instead, try to pry up the connector directly, using a spudger or a small flathead screwdriver if necessary.

  • Disconnect the microphone cable at the front of the computer, between the left side of the hard drive and the metal framework.

  • Deroute the microphone and display data cables from the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.

I would remove the HDD and then remove the microphone cable as it is very easy to break the plug on the logic (system) board.

Grizz - Reply

Image 1/1: The screws go in the outer holes on each side (you can see the threads in the correct hole).
  • Support the display with one hand and remove the single Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two screws total).

  • The screws go in the outer holes on each side (you can see the threads in the correct hole).

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Image 1/1: Be sure all cables connecting the display to the computer are free before completely removing the display.
  • Lift the display up and tilt it backwards, freeing it from the two metal alignment posts holding the hinges in place, and slide it away from you.

  • Be sure all cables connecting the display to the computer are free before completely removing the display.

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Image 1/1: If you don't have a 1.5 mm hex driver, you can probably get these screws out with a T6 Torx screwdriver. However, if you use a T6 Torx driver you'll be more likely to strip the screws.
  • Use a 1.5 mm hex screwdriver to remove the two hex screws on either side of the display (four screws total).

  • If you don't have a 1.5 mm hex driver, you can probably get these screws out with a T6 Torx screwdriver. However, if you use a T6 Torx driver you'll be more likely to strip the screws.

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Image 1/1: It is helpful to hold the opposing corner of the display stationary to aid in flexing the rear bezel away from the display.
  • Use your thumbs to slightly separate the rear bezel from the front bezel.

  • It is helpful to hold the opposing corner of the display stationary to aid in flexing the rear bezel away from the display.

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Image 1/3: Rotate your spudger until it is parallel to the front face of the display. Image 2/3: Run the spudger around the perimeter of the display to separate the rear bezel from its retaining clips. Image 3/3: Run the spudger around the perimeter of the display to separate the rear bezel from its retaining clips.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the front and rear bezels.

  • Rotate your spudger until it is parallel to the front face of the display.

  • Run the spudger around the perimeter of the display to separate the rear bezel from its retaining clips.

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Image 1/1:
  • Lift the rear bezel off the display.

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Image 1/2: Carefully remove the aluminum tape covering the display data cable connection. Image 2/2: Carefully remove the aluminum tape covering the display data cable connection.
  • Remove the pieces of readily removable tape from around the perimeter of the display.

  • Carefully remove the aluminum tape covering the display data cable connection.

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Image 1/2: Use the tip of a spudger to remove the small washer under the screw you just removed. Image 2/2: Use the tip of a spudger to remove the small washer under the screw you just removed.
  • Remove the single screw inserted through the piece of EMI tape near the bottom edge of the display.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to remove the small washer under the screw you just removed.

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Image 1/1: It is not necessary to peel the tape off the thin steel LCD cover.
  • Peel the aluminum/EMI tape off the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.

  • It is not necessary to peel the tape off the thin steel LCD cover.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing each side of the LCD to the clutch hinge frame (four screws total).

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Image 1/1:
  • Lift the thin steel LCD cover off the LCD.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the second of the two Phillips screws securing the clutch cover to the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.

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Image 1/3: Keep track of the two covers that close the ends of the clutch cover. The third picture shows their correct orientation on the clutch cover. Image 2/3: Keep track of the two covers that close the ends of the clutch cover. The third picture shows their correct orientation on the clutch cover. Image 3/3: Keep track of the two covers that close the ends of the clutch cover. The third picture shows their correct orientation on the clutch cover.
  • Pull the clutch cover away from the front of the display.

  • Keep track of the two covers that close the ends of the clutch cover. The third picture shows their correct orientation on the clutch cover.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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