You can install hard drives up to 9.5mm thick.

  1. Lay your iBook upside down on a flat surface.
    • Lay your iBook upside down on a flat surface.

    • Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

    • Lift the battery out of the computer.

  2. Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.
    • Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.

    • If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw 180 degrees in either direction and try again.

    • Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.

    • Remove the four silver Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.

    • Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.

    • Make sure that you reconnect the keyboard cable before replacing the RAM shield.

    • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

    • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

    • Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.

    • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

    • Remove the three hex screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.

    • The shorter screw is in the center of the computer.

    • Remove the two 4.5 mm Phillips screws on either sides of the battery contacts.

    • Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.

    • Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

    • There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

    • Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

    • Continue to run the spudger around the front right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.

    • There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.

    • The front and sides of the lower case are now free.

    • Turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free.

    • It may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down.

    • Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.

    • Have patience and follow the directions, the end result is up to you. In my case it worked. But I was a Technician TRW Automotive. and worked on Air Bag modules that was returned from customer's that needed them analyzed. I just retired after 26 years.

    • Remove the following 4 screws from the bottom shield:

      • Two 3 mm Phillips.

      • Two 7.5 mm Phillips.

    • Lift the bottom shield off.

    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the DC-In board, removing tape as necessary.

    • Deroute the cable from around the optical drive, removing tape as necessary.

    • Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board and angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.

    • Remove the two 3 mm Phillips screws inside the left edge of the battery tray.

      • Three 3 mm Phillips around the battery compartment.

      • Three 4.5 mm Phillips along the optical drive bezel. (a magnetic screwdriver may help to lift these screws out)

      • One 12 mm Phillips in the lower right corner.

      • Four 14.5 mm Phillips.

    • We recommend placing the computer on a soft cloth from this point on to prevent damaging the logic board.

    • Turn over the computer and open it.

    • Use the flat side of a flathead screwdriver to remove the small magnet covering a screw near the middle of the computer.

    • The shorter screw goes in the lower left corner.

    • Remove the following 7 screws from the edges of the keyboard area.

      • Three 2 mm Phillips along the right edge.

      • One 4.5 mm Phillips underneath where the magnet was.

      • One 6 mm Phillips with a small head in the lower left corner.

      • Two 6 mm Phillips with large heads, one in the upper left corner and one in the middle.

    • Before you can yank the upper case off, you must disconnect the trackpad connector, the blue and white power cable, and speaker cable as described in the next steps. Be especially careful with these cables; never pull directly on the cables, but use a spudger to pry up the connector directly.

    • Carefully lift the upper case slightly and move it toward the front of the computer to reveal the trackpad connector. Use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab.

    • After disconnecting the track pad connector, carefully rotate the upper case away from you and rest it against the display.

    • The connectors at the ends of the following cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.

    • Use the sharp end of a spudger to disconnect the speaker cable connector.

    • Using the sharp end of a spudger, disconnect the connector for the blue and white power cables. Again, be careful to pry up only on the connector.

    • It is very easy to break the connector from the board, so be careful.

    • The key is to apply force in two directions, down to keep the surface board connections intact, up to release the connector.

    • The upper case is now free and can be removed from the computer.

    • Remove the fifteen 3 mm Phillips screws securing the top shield to the computer.

    • Remove the following 16 screws:

      • Thirteen 3 mm Phillips.

      • One 3 mm Phillips. (actual screw not present in image)

      • Two 4 mm Phillips.

    • Be sure to fit the screw near the left hinge through the loop in the display data cable, securing the cable to the upper case.

    • Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner, which may catch on the metal framework.

    • Remove the metal hard drive retaining bracket from the computer.

    • Remove the four Phillips screws securing the hard drive to the metal framework.

    • Slightly lift the hard drive from the free end and pull the hard drive straight away from the connector.

    • Remove the hard drive brackets from the left and right sides of the hard drive.

    • Remove the two black T8 Torx screws from either side of the hard drive (four screws total).

    • Pull the plastic hard drive connector straight away from the hard drive.

    • This is a bit tricky. Try rocking the connector gently while pulling with even pressure. If you bend the pins, do your best to straighten them, using the hard drive connector as a guide.

    • Hard drive remains.

    • If you are installing a new hard drive, we have an OS X install guide to get you up and running.


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

126 other people completed this guide.

Attached Documents


I did this not just for upgrade but because G4 had been out of service for over 12mths due to what I believed was a faulty logic board. Attempted re-installs of OS (when I found the disc) suggested HDD failure so I ordered a 160Gb replacement from ebay for £40 and have just replaced original 30Gb HDD with a 160Gb following these instructions - I have no previous experience in this type of work but now have a working lap top with fully installed OS up and running and all at a total saving of at least £827 based on new MacBook prices!!!

Dave - Reply

Be SURE to read the comments on the more difficult parts (removing connectors, etc). The comments expound on the care needed in these areas to avoid damaging your iBook. Good luck!

CL Johnson - Reply

Next time I think I'll just use a crowbar or a drop saw to get the hard disk out for data recovery.

Hard disk is located in the front left hand side of the unit.

65+ screws of all shapes and sizes.

What a poorly designed notebook - that's putting it really, really, mildly.

It sucks.

joshAU - Reply

it took me maybe 40 minutes to disassemble but i just wanted to pull the hard drive out before recycling... i was ruthless in my efforts. mission accomplished!

linda - Reply

It looks like someone removed/defaced step 17. Can the original text/picture be restored?

aaron.teplitsky - Reply

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