iBook G3 14" Top Shield Replacement

  • Author: iRobot
  • Difficulty: Difficult

The metallic top shield protects the logic board from electromagnetic interference.

Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Battery  ¶ 

  • Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

  • Lift the battery out of the computer.

Edit Step 2 Keyboard  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2 Keyboard  ¶ 

  • Pull the keyboard release tabs (highlighted in red) toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.

  • If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw 180 degrees in either direction and try again.

  • Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • If your computer does not have an AirPort card installed, skip to the RAM shield removal step.

  • Push the wire clasp toward the AirPort card and pull it up to free it from the RAM shield.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Grasp the clear plastic tab on the AirPort card and pull toward the right.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Hold the AirPort card in one hand and use your other hand to remove the antenna cable.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Grasp the metal bracket on top of the RAM shield and pull upward to remove the shield.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.

Edit Step 9 Lower Case  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Use a pin to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Remove the three hex screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.

  • The screw in the center is shorter than the other two.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.

  • Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place.

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case.

  • Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner.

  • There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound out port.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Once the front and sides of the lower case are free, turn the computer so that the back is facing you.

  • Pull the lower case up and toward you until the back tabs pop free.

  • It may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.

Edit Step 20 Upper Case  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20 Upper Case  ¶ 

  • All of the screws in the following step have small heads - the screws with larger heads hold the bottom shield on.

  • Remove the following 9 screws on the bottom of the computer:

    • Three 3 mm Phillips around the battery compartment.

    • Three 5 mm Phillips on the left and bottom edges.

    • Three 14.5 mm Phillips on the top and right edges (you may have to peel back the foil tape to reveal the screw near the security lock slot).

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Turn over the computer and open it.

  • Pry up the magnet covering a Phillips screw near the middle of the computer.

  • You may need to peel back the serial number sticker to access the magnet.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 3 screws on the edges of the keyboard area:

    • Two 6 mm Phillips underneath the keyboard area.

    • One 9 mm Phillips above the keyboard area.

  • On some models, there may also be a screw under the magnet you just removed. If so, remove the screw at this point.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • This is a diagram of the ribbon clamp connectors you will disconnect in the next step.

  • With your fingernails, grasp the locking bar on either side and pull up a small amount (about 1/16" or 2 mm).

  • After disengaging the locking bar, slide the cable out of the connector.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Loosen the trackpad connector by pulling the top piece up slightly, freeing the trackpad ribbon.

  • Slide the orange trackpad ribbon out of the connector.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Use a straightened paperclip to open the optical drive tray, and pull it out about halfway.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Don't lift the upper case off the computer yet as there are still two cables left to disconnect.

  • Lift the upper case from the left side and use your other hand to pull out the right side in order to clear the power receptacle.

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • The connectors at the ends of the cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.

  • Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board.

  • Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connector from its socket.

  • Make sure you are pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Lift the upper case off completely and disconnect the red and black speaker cable from the logic board.

  • Make sure you are pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

Edit Step 29 Top Shield  ¶ 

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Edit Step 29 Top Shield  ¶ 

  • Remove the following 16 screws:

    • Five 3 mm Phillips (these have smaller heads than the others).

    • Three 5 mm Phillips.

    • Eight 6 mm Phillips.

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • If you have already removed the yellow tape, skip this step.

  • Peel back three strips of yellow tape in the bottom, left corner.

  • Peel back one strip of foil tape near the audio-out port, one near where the trackpad connects to the logic board, and one near where the screen latch used to be.

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner, which may catch on the metal framework.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iBook G3 14" device page.

Required Tools

TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Flathead 3/32" or 2.5 mm Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Coin

$2.95 · 11 In stock

Related Products

iBook G3 14" Top Shield

$4.95 · 11 In stock

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Comments Comments are onturn off

Mine didn't have a screw under the magnet.

TekMac, · Reply

Quote from TekMac:

Mine didn't have a screw under the magnet.

I don't mean that a screw was missing, I'm saying that there is no screw or screw hole installed on my 14" in that location. The other steps were dead-on though.

TekMac, · Reply

No magnet, screw or screw hole on my upper case either.

randy3833, · Reply

Not all G3 Dual USB iBooks have a screw underneath the magnet, so the magnet need not be removed in these cases and will not hinder the removal of the top.

Brett Fox, · Reply

Some iBooks like the 16 VRAM model have the magnet but there is no screw behind it.

Alex , · Reply

Check to see if your model has a screw under the magnet first. If you can lift up the area around the magnet there is no screw to deal with.

James Scanlan, · Reply

There is a forth screw underneath the magnet: top center of keyboard area.

tkn77, · Reply

hello...while i was at step 27 i pulled the connector too much and i broken the socket from the logic board!! I used a glue to put it back but now doesen't turn on the computer...any idea??? :)

Fabrizio, · Reply

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