Introduction

This guide will teach you how to remove the buttons.

  1. Remove the battery pack cover.
    • Remove the battery pack cover.

    • Remove batteries.

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  2. We recommend using a nylon spudger for this step. A metal spudger is shown.
    • We recommend using a nylon spudger for this step. A metal spudger is shown.

    • Grip the controller firmly to remove the side handles, wedging a spudger into the seam between the front and handle plates.

    • Pry the side plate away from the front plate by moving the spudger back and forth. You will need to do this all the way around the side plate's seam.

    Start prying the side plate off underneath the trigger, this makes it easier to disconnect the other clips connecting the side plate to the backplate.

    Brandon - Reply

    One you take it off, is it possible to click it back in?

    Aiden Bear - Reply

    As long as you don’t exceed the couple tons you need to take it off you should be able to put it back.

    Brandon -

    • There is a hidden screw located in the middle of the controller behind the label.

    • Use a screwdriver and punch a hole directly in the center of the label.

      • You may also lift the label if you do not want to puncture it.

    • Remove the five 10mm screws located on the back of the controller using the T8 Security Torx Screwdriver.

    i damaged my screws. how do i get the screws out?

    tenzin - Reply

    wait. i just watched a video guide on ifixit's youtube channel about damaged screws. i'll try those methods.

    tenzin - Reply

    It's a t8 or t9 security bit btw, I got the top two out with a regular T8, but the bottom two and middle needed a T9 Security bit.

    David Loper - Reply

    All five faceplate/backplate screws in the controller I disassembled were T8 security fasteners.

    John Dziedzic - Reply

    Am I doing something wrong because I got the tool it said I needed and got the middle screw out but the others have a bump or something in the center of the screw and it won't fit.

    kolton77 - Reply

    The T8 is only good for the middle screw on my One S controller. The others require something bigger

    Matej Skelo - Reply

    These requires SECURITY Torx bits (they have a cannulated hole in the driver). I don't believe the iFixIt branded driver is cannulated but you can buy a set of bits from DeWalt DWAX200 which is overkill but has what you need.

    jhighsmith - Reply

    The driver that iFixIt sells is cannulated.

    jhighsmith -

    where do you get this dumb ass screw driver

    Jake Zweier - Reply

    iFixit Store #IF145-027-3

    VauWeh - Reply

    You can bypass it with a 1.5mm flathead.

    Marianne Sandling - Reply

    thank you for this. worked for me

    Mr Anderson (Evolluisionist) -

    • Remove the backplate.

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    • Remove the faceplate.

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    • You may let the rumble motors hang freely out of their sockets.

    • De-solder the soldered joints while holding the red and black wires down on the top motherboard.

    • De-solder the black and gray wires that are attached to the top motherboard.

    • Remove the rumble motors and set them aside.

    • Be careful while using the soldering iron not to damage other components or hurt yourself.

    • For information on how to solder, click here.

    Steps 6-8 aren't completely necessary, and are very risky if you aren't good at soldering. It would seem the only reason to remove the motherboard and mess with all this soldering is just so you can reach both screws on the trigger in step 10. However, you can reach them already with a small-bodied screwdriver. Although you might have to rest the screwdriver on the black square processor to reach the bottom screw, it shouldn't damage the processor or motherboard to jimmy that screw out.

    Robert Rapier - Reply

    like mentioned by ‘Robert Rapier’ you can skip the de-soldering in most cases,

    for example cleaning or changing the buttons is doable, but the grey and black wires are pretty short

    and wired through the inner case so it can get a bit fiddly and you have to be careful not to damage them in the process.

    If you have a soldering station around i would still recommend using it.

    yKekS Yzz - Reply

    • Unscrew the two 7mm T6 screws located near the rumble motor sockets.

    Are these just T6 screws or Torx security T6 that is cannulated?

    Kenan Vickstrom - Reply

    • Firmly grip sides of motherboard near the middle.

    • Lift upwards while slightly wiggling the motherboard forward and backward.

    • Lifting the motherboard will require some force.

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    • Remove the six T6 Torx screws located on the bottom motherboard.

    Where can I find the connectors at for the motherboard??

    lillarrypimp1993 - Reply

    This guide completely skips the part about removing the trigger buttons. There are 2 screws per trigger that need to be removed so there are actually 10 T6 screws to remove.

    Navy Vet 2015 - Reply

    There’s also 2 small rumble packs under the trigger buttons that no one mentioned. Someone got lazy when writing this step.

    Navy Vet 2015 - Reply

    Hey @jasonasnes good catch! It looks like maybe they forgot to add the trigger/trigger rumble motor prerequisite, so I went ahead and added that in there. That guide makes no mention of how the rumble motors are attached, but I think they’re soldered to the motherboard, so I added a note to desolder those wires prior to removal. I think you could probably also just desolder those wires and leave the triggers in place when removing the motherboard, but I’m not certain! Hope that helps!

    Sam Lionheart - Reply

    @sam I was able to complete this with the missing information but thank you for updating it for those to come in the future. Minus these couple of discrepancies and it’s a great guide. Yes, all 4 of the rumble motors are soldered onto the upper motherboard. Step 6 actually highlights this with the exception of mentioning the 2 small rumble motors in the triggers. You bring up a good point, it might be possible to leave the triggers in place during this process. I used this guide as a teardown instead of as a replacement so I could refurbish the plastic shell and clean the interior of my day one controller so I completely stripped mine. However, I believe that the triggers could remain in place if your goal is to get to the lower motherboard.

    Navy Vet 2015 - Reply

    • Remove the bumpers by prying them off of the pegs that secure them, using a spudger. They are located on the front and back of the controller.

    • A standard nylon spudger is recommended for this step. Using a metal spudger near the motherboard as shown risks damaging your device.

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    • Lift the piece surrounding the Home button off of its pegs.

    • Pry it off of the other side, using a spudger on the pins.

    • A standard nylon spudger is recommended for this step. Using a metal spudger near the motherboard as shown risks damaging your device.

    • Removing this piece may require a lot of force.

    2 things missing in this step:

    1) You will have to press down on the power button in order to release the plastic retaining piece.

    2) The button that syncs the controller to the system completely separates from the plastic frame. If you're not careful you could lose the thing.

    Navy Vet 2015 - Reply

    Thanks NavyVet2015!

    The sync button fell out on me and I was pondering what it was for a while.

    Nothing is holding that little guy in so watch it!

    CrazedCanuck18 - Reply

    • Remove the bottom motherboard.

    That’s the TOP motherboard.

    Ken D. - Reply

    • Remove the rubber backing to the buttons.

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    • With the buttons facing down, push them up out of their housings, and remove.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

47 other people completed this guide.

Garrett George

Member since: 01/22/2015

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22 Comments

do you have a URL for the repair parts (rubber pads) ect. for the wireless controllers

kendixon69 - Reply

For all of my Xbox One controllers, I needed the tamper-resistant Torx bits. They're the ones with the hole in the center, like these: http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-13pc-Tam.... Any tamper-resistant or Torx security bit set should do as long as it has the sizes listed in the Tools section of this FixIt article.

Frank Wilson - Reply

Just an FYI you can use a flat screwdriver against the post and side and it will either work or break the post which is what happened to me and allowed me to use a normal torx screwdriver.

sid f -

Looking to replace the switch on the right bumper, can't find any parts or numbers. Looking for help please.

sid f - Reply

you could buy a broken controller and take it a part to use that bumper. Just make sure to get it out and put it in carefully because you could break that.

David Gardner -

Has anyone else had trouble with keeping the sync button in place while trying to do step 11 in reverse? I think I'll never be able to use the sync button, but I've got the A button functioning again!

Derrek James - Reply

So I have these tiny white square pieces that fell out while I was trying to remove the bottom mother board to clean out the buttons and I don't know where they go... help?

JRellevant - Reply

I gotcha brotha,

The little white rubber pieces sit in the small square slot behind the "tact switch"

*borrowed picture, not mine.*

http://m.imgur.com/gallery/ZAHh4

Hope that helps

SUBRWHO -

Link to image was bad so I found this one for anyone wondering what the white square bits are supposed to go

https://goo.gl/images/nuS3rt

Floyd Fernandez -

I just tore my controller down and can't get the buttons out. It's like they are superglued. Which is why I took it apart in the first place. Any ideas?

Jd - Reply

Use a qtip and some peroxide on them. Then just slowly push them out. Kinda like you would with liquid wrench on a tough nut. Just broke mine down because a friend spilled a beer on it. Works like new now. Just clean it several times. And don't forget to clean the heck out of the faceplate openings where the buttons sit too.

Mishka -

WOW.. Thanks for this. Just took mine apart to clean out a coffee spill. I can say that this was a little on the difficult side as I didn't unsolder everything, so it can be done without the soldering - unless you are changing a board.

Now to test it to make sure it works!!

Rob - Reply

I can confirm That this procedure is spot on and it can done without much difficulty WITHOUT any soldering/unsoldering on Both Xbox one and Xbox One S wireless controllers.

I've just done button replacements on 3 ONE S Controllers and 1 Xbox One controller this week without unsoldering anything. All are working fine. The One S controllers have a bit more slack in teh soldered cables than the gen 1 controller so they were easier but basically you can twist the top board in place without straining any connections and have plenty of room to remove teh motherboard screws and do the button swap. The big trick here is controlling teh Rumble motors. I just used some Painters tape to hold them in their receptacles while i worked to keep them from falling out and straining the soldered connections.

Also regarding the time estimate the first one took me about 30 minutes by itself but once I had the process down it was a 15 minute process to tear down and reassemble.

John Poniske - Reply

I wish I would have read this first. My right rumble motor fell and snapped wires as I was tightening last motherboard screw before housing…..

Melissa Roth -

Perhaps you can answer this for me i have a similiar problem in most elite controllers from what i understand my rb and lb bumpers broke basically in a months time anyway i also have a xbox one s controller that looks exact to the elite. What i want to know is can i take the bumpers from the one s controller and trade them out with the elite. Thanks

john Noneya - Reply

you can not swap them out. The controller bumpers are different. The S bumpers are their own separate buttons with no bar connecting the two like in the elite. I just tried that and it was easy to take apart but they are two separate types of buttons.

Jesse Richardson -

Hey, thanks for this guide. I think I must have done something wrong, though. My xb buttons press just fine, but my at buttons are super stiff. Do you possibly know where I went wrong? Tighten the screws too much or something?

Cheyanna - Reply

Most likely the buttons didn’t line back up quite right. Happened with my x button the first time I started to reassemble. They have a set of groves and tabs that line up to get them to sink into the holes perfectly if they are even off by a little they won’t go in right.

Melissa Roth -

I Just tore mine down and replaced the buttons and now the thing will not turn on. When i use the battery I get nothing, when I plug it in USB the light just flashes. Any thoughts?

Preston Holder - Reply

There is a connection between the two boards, it's a plug type, black in the second generation controllers. If it isn't reconnected then you can see the issues you're experiencing.

Bryse Taylor -

I attempted this tear down to clean up a sticky sauce spill and got all the way to the end of reassembly without soldering at all. Then the two of the wires came off their place as I started to put the outer housing back on. Can it be done without soldering/desoldering? Yes but have an iron handing Incase what happened to me happens to your remote. I dont have a good one and as the one I’m repairing is the one linked to my account I’m not about to risk completely ruining it so this repair is going to take a while.

Melissa Roth - Reply

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