Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the motherboard in your Xbox One.

Note that separating the heat sink from the CPU compromises the original thermal compound. You'll need to clean off and replace the thermal paste with a new application. See this guide for directions on how to do this.

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  • To open your Xbox, you're going to have to cut or peel up this tamper-evident tape. This will probably void your warranty. Have fun!

In the United States the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975 is a Federal Law that states that stickers and clauses are illegal. It says you can open your electronics without voiding the warranty, regardless of what language of that warranty says.

Dustin D'Amour - Reply

Image 1/2: The vent is fairly flexible, and held in place with weak plastic clips—start prying from the back and peel it out. Image 2/2: The vent is fairly flexible, and held in place with weak plastic clips—start prying from the back and peel it out.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry up and remove the plastic vent that surrounds the side USB port.

  • The vent is fairly flexible, and held in place with weak plastic clips—start prying from the back and peel it out.

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Image 1/2: Slide the tab straight back and remove it. Image 2/2: Slide the tab straight back and remove it.
  • There is a small plastic tab that reinforces the front corner of the Xbox.

  • Slide the tab straight back and remove it.

Do u sell that plastic tag I need it

Brandon - Reply

Image 1/2: There is a strong plastic clip connecting the two case halves (the first of many), so you'll need to use quite a bit of force. Image 2/2: Leave the spudger in place until you open the case completely. The clips are very springy and may cause the case to snap shut while you're working.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the upper and lower case where they meet at the rear of the side vent opening.

  • There is a strong plastic clip connecting the two case halves (the first of many), so you'll need to use quite a bit of force.

  • Leave the spudger in place until you open the case completely. The clips are very springy and may cause the case to snap shut while you're working.

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Image 1/2: Insert a plastic opening tool between the upper and lower case to separate the clip over the rear vent. Image 2/2: Insert a plastic opening tool between the upper and lower case to separate the clip over the rear vent.
  • The interface between the upper and lower cases is secured by several clips along the rear and remaining side of the Xbox.

  • Insert a plastic opening tool between the upper and lower case to separate the clip over the rear vent.

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Image 1/2: Make sure the spudger stays in its blocking position—even if the case opens up enough for the spudger to fall out, the remaining clips are springy and may pull the case completely shut. Keep the spudger in the gap to protect your progress. Image 2/2: Make sure the spudger stays in its blocking position—even if the case opens up enough for the spudger to fall out, the remaining clips are springy and may pull the case completely shut. Keep the spudger in the gap to protect your progress.
  • Keep moving along the rear of the Xbox, prying up clips.

  • Make sure the spudger stays in its blocking position—even if the case opens up enough for the spudger to fall out, the remaining clips are springy and may pull the case completely shut. Keep the spudger in the gap to protect your progress.

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Image 1/2: By the time you get to the far edge of the rear case, the top case should be ready to come off. If not, run your plastic opening tool around the corner and pop the clips along the side without the USB port. Image 2/2: By the time you get to the far edge of the rear case, the top case should be ready to come off. If not, run your plastic opening tool around the corner and pop the clips along the side without the USB port.
  • Keep popping clips. It may help to slide the plastic opening tool across the clips.

  • By the time you get to the far edge of the rear case, the top case should be ready to come off. If not, run your plastic opening tool around the corner and pop the clips along the side without the USB port.

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Image 1/3: Use a plastic opening tool to pop any straggler clips that weren't freed. Image 2/3: Do not try to remove the upper case yet, as it is still connected by the front panel button cable. Image 3/3: Lift the upper case slightly and shift it to give access to the front panel board.
  • Starting with the spudger you left in the crack, pry the upper case up to free the last few clips.

    • Use a plastic opening tool to pop any straggler clips that weren't freed.

  • Do not try to remove the upper case yet, as it is still connected by the front panel button cable.

    • Lift the upper case slightly and shift it to give access to the front panel board.

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Image 1/3: Use tweezers to lift the plastic retaining loop over the connector on the board. Image 2/3: Use the tip of a spudger to push the connector's locking tab toward the cable to unlatch it. Image 3/3: Use the tip of a spudger to push the connector's locking tab toward the cable to unlatch it.
  • The front button cable has a unique ZIF connector—pay attention to the next few steps to safely disconnect it.

  • Use tweezers to lift the plastic retaining loop over the connector on the board.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the connector's locking tab toward the cable to unlatch it.

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Image 1/2: Remove the upper case. Image 2/2: Remove the upper case.
  • Use tweezers to pull the cable straight out of the connector on the board.

  • Remove the upper case.

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Image 1/3: Use the flat end of a spudger to free the clips securing the front panel to the upper case. Image 2/3: Remove the front panel from the rest of the upper case. Image 3/3: Remove the front panel from the rest of the upper case.
  • The next 4 steps are directions for reassembly. Skip them to continue with disassembly.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to free the clips securing the front panel to the upper case.

  • Remove the front panel from the rest of the upper case.

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Image 1/3: Line up the clips and press firmly to re-seat them around the perimeter. Image 2/3: Line up the clips and press firmly to re-seat them around the perimeter. Image 3/3: Line up the clips and press firmly to re-seat them around the perimeter.
  • Replace the top part of the upper case.

  • Line up the clips and press firmly to re-seat them around the perimeter.

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Image 1/3: Use tweezers to replace the front button cable in its ZIF socket. Image 2/3: Use the flat end of a spudger to push the ZIF lock to the left to secure the cable. Image 3/3: Use the flat end of a spudger to push the ZIF lock to the left to secure the cable.
  • Support the front panel near the front of the Xbox.

  • Use tweezers to replace the front button cable in its ZIF socket.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to push the ZIF lock to the left to secure the cable.

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Image 1/3: With the front panel at a 45 degree angle, interlock its plastic hooks with those in the lower case. Image 2/3: Push the top of the front panel into the Xbox, like closing a mailbox. Press firmly so that the clips securing the front panel to the upper case lock securely. Image 3/3: Push the top of the front panel into the Xbox, like closing a mailbox. Press firmly so that the clips securing the front panel to the upper case lock securely.
  • The lower edge of the front panel has plastic hooks that interlock with plastic hooks on the front edge of the lower case.

  • With the front panel at a 45 degree angle, interlock its plastic hooks with those in the lower case.

  • Push the top of the front panel into the Xbox, like closing a mailbox. Press firmly so that the clips securing the front panel to the upper case lock securely.

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Image 1/3: Be careful to pull up on the cable's connector and not the connector on the board. It's pretty flimsy and you might accidentally pull it off the board entirely. Image 2/3: Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from the front panel board. Image 3/3: Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from the front panel board.
  • Gently pull up on the speaker cable connector to disconnect it from the front panel board.

  • Be careful to pull up on the cable's connector and not the connector on the board. It's pretty flimsy and you might accidentally pull it off the board entirely.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from the front panel board.

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Image 1/3: Lift the Wi-Fi board straight up from its socket in the upper metal case. Image 2/3: Leaving the Wi-Fi board antenna cable in place, move the Wi-Fi board aside, exposing the screw labeled "C3" that was beneath it. Image 3/3: Leaving the Wi-Fi board antenna cable in place, move the Wi-Fi board aside, exposing the screw labeled "C3" that was beneath it.
  • Remove the two 9.5 mm T9 Torx screws from the WI-Fi board.

  • Lift the Wi-Fi board straight up from its socket in the upper metal case.

  • Leaving the Wi-Fi board antenna cable in place, move the Wi-Fi board aside, exposing the screw labeled "C3" that was beneath it.

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  • Remove the eight 65 mm Torx T10 screws from the top of the upper metal case.

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Image 1/2: The Wi-Fi board interconnect cable connects the upper metal case to the motherboard. Image 2/2: The Wi-Fi board interconnect cable connects the upper metal case to the motherboard.
  • Lift—but do not remove—the upper metal case.

    • The Wi-Fi board interconnect cable connects the upper metal case to the motherboard.

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Image 1/2: Remove the upper metal case. Image 2/2: Remove the upper metal case.
  • Disconnect the Wi-FI board interconnect cable from the motherboard.

  • Remove the upper metal case.

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  • Disconnect the hard drive SATA power and data cables from the motherboard.

I found that it is not necessary to take out the hard drive in order to remove the front panel module. If you can lift the whole metal enclosure a little to get to the right most torx screw, then you do not need to move the hard drive.

Taiji Saotome - Reply

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  • Lift and remove the hard drive tray from the Xbox.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Disconnect the optical drive power and SATA data cables from the motherboard.

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  • Remove the optical drive assembly from the Xbox.

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  • Lift the motherboard assembly out of the lower case.

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  • Remove the three 9.5 mm T9 Torx screws securing the front panel board.

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  • Disconnect the front panel board from its socket in the front of the motherboard.

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Image 1/3: Pinch the arms together and pull the barbs out through the frame to remove the posts. Image 2/3: Pinch the arms together and pull the barbs out through the frame to remove the posts. Image 3/3: Pinch the arms together and pull the barbs out through the frame to remove the posts.
  • Two black plastic screw posts posts are attached to the frame with springy plastic barbs.

  • Pinch the arms together and pull the barbs out through the frame to remove the posts.

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Image 1/2: Remove the white plastic screw post from the frame. Image 2/2: Remove the white plastic screw post from the frame.
  • Remove the 8.3 mm T9 Torx screw securing the white plastic screw post to the lower metal frame.

  • Remove the white plastic screw post from the frame.

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Image 1/1: Remove the following screws from the bottom of the lower frame:
  • Flip the lower metal frame and motherboard assembly over, to rest on the fan.

  • Remove the following screws from the bottom of the lower frame:

    • Four 11.2 mm T10 Torx screws

    • Four 9.5 mm T9 Torx screws

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Image 1/3: Push the two plugs through the lower metal case. Image 2/3: Push the two plugs through the lower metal case. Image 3/3: Push the two plugs through the lower metal case.
  • Two small plastic plugs protrude through the rear metal case—one beneath the side USB port, and another beneath the AC in port. These plugs get caught on the lower metal case and make it hard to remove the motherboard.

  • Push the two plugs through the lower metal case.

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  • Lift the motherboard and heat sink/fan assembly out of the lower metal case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Disconnect the fan cable from the motherboard.

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Image 1/2: Gently rotate the screwdriver, lifting the arm of the X-clamp up and off of the post. Image 2/2: Gently rotate the screwdriver, lifting the arm of the X-clamp up and off of the post.
  • Insert the tip of a small flathead screwdriver between the post and the outer edge of one arm of the X-clamp.

  • Gently rotate the screwdriver, lifting the arm of the X-clamp up and off of the post.

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Image 1/2: Remove the X-clamp. Image 2/2: Remove the X-clamp.
  • Use the same rotating technique to free one more arm of the X-clamp from its post.

  • Remove the X-clamp.

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Image 1/2: When you're reassembling your Xbox, follow our [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Applying+Thermal+Paste/744|Applying Thermal Paste|new_window=true] guide at this point to apply a new layer of thermal paste to the CPU. Image 2/2: When you're reassembling your Xbox, follow our [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Applying+Thermal+Paste/744|Applying Thermal Paste|new_window=true] guide at this point to apply a new layer of thermal paste to the CPU.
  • Lift the motherboard off of the fan/heat sink assembly.

  • When you're reassembling your Xbox, follow our Applying Thermal Paste guide at this point to apply a new layer of thermal paste to the CPU.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Don't forget to apply a new layer of thermal paste to your CPU. Follow this guide to learn how.

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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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One Comment

Quick question. After reassembly do you need to reinstall an operating system or update anything thing or does the hard drive just go oh look new stuff yeah that's fine.

Matt Glenn - Reply

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