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Whirlpool Washing Machine Top Panel Removal

Video Guide
This guide was transcribed from a YouTube video.

What you need

    • Unplug the washer, and keep the cord out of the way so it can’t be accidentally plugged back in.

    • Turn off the water supply valves if you’ll be moving the washer far enough to strain the hoses.

    • Pull the washer forward to get comfortable access to the rear of the cabinet.

    • Wear work gloves to protect your hands from sharp sheet metal edges.

    • Gather a 1/4 inch nut driver, a putty knife, and an optional flathead screwdriver.

    • Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the two 1/4 inch screws at the rear of the top panel.

    • Support the top with your free hand as you loosen the screws so it doesn’t shift suddenly.

    • Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the 1/4 inch screw securing the wire harness cover.

    • Lift off the cover plate after removing its screw.

    • Open the washer lid.

    • Pull the whole top panel forward and try to lift it up.

    • Stop if the top lifts a little but catches and won’t come free, because this cabinet uses hidden metal latch tabs.

    • Note that many earlier Whirlpool top-loaders (roughly 2009–2021 styles) often release after rear screws and a forward slide, but this newer style may not.

    • Locate the two hidden metal latch tabs near the front edge of the top, one on the left and one on the right, between the top panel and the cabinet frame.

    • Diagram (top view): FRONT EDGE → [ left latch tab ] —— lid opening —— [ right latch tab ].

    • Slide a putty knife or a very thin flat screwdriver into the seam at the front corner to reach a latch tab.

    • Use the tool to bend the metal latch tab up and out of the way while pulling the top panel forward.

    • Repeat for the latch tab on the other side until the top panel slides forward and feels liberated.

    • Caution: Don’t force a thick tool into the seam, because prying can deform the metal and make future removals harder.

    • With the top slid forward, lift the top panel up toward the wall.

    • WARNING: Make sure the lid top is secured to the lid chassis so it can’t swing into the console and crack the glass.

    • Watch for the two small fingers in the chassis at the rear that the top panel slots into during installation.

    • Check for small metal lips on each side of the chassis that can catch the top panel when you pull it forward.

    • If someone previously jammed a screwdriver in the seam, those lips or catches may be displaced, and the top panel may be warped from damage.

    • Push the lid and top assembly toward the rear of the cabinet before inserting a putty knife or thin screwdriver.

    • Insert the putty knife, push the tool downward to pivot the top panel up and over the catches, and use the tool to help pull the top forward while avoiding the lips.

    • Diagram (side idea): tool pushes down at the seam to lift the top over a catching lip on the chassis edge.

    • Lower the top panel and align it so the rear of the top slots into the two small chassis fingers.

    • Slide the top panel toward the rear until it sits flush and the front latches re-engage.

    • Reinstall the wire harness cover plate and its 1/4 inch screw.

    • Reinstall the two 1/4 inch screws at the rear of the top panel.

    • Plug the washer back in only after all panels are secured and your hands are clear of pinch points.

Conclusion

If the top won’t release with gentle latch-tab bending, inspect the seam and chassis edges for bent catching lips or a warped top from prior prying, then reposition the lid fully rearward before trying again with a thin putty knife.

Ben Schlichter

Member since: 01/21/25

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