Introduction
Your Whirlpool-made dryer that tumbles but won’t heat can have a timer with burned internal contacts, even after the heating element and sensors test good. This guide shows how to access the timer, confirm the failure with a continuity test between the A and C terminals, and refurbish the timer contacts with simple sanding. This is an inexpensive, temporary repair that often restores heat, but it won’t work in every case, and the timer may still need replacement later. This procedure applies to many Whirlpool, Kenmore, Amana, Estate, Roper, and Maytag dryers that use similar timers (including W10186032 and similar variants).
What you need
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Step 1 Prepare for service
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Work in a well-lit area so you can clearly see connector labels and terminal markings.
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Step 2 Remove the rear access cover
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Use a nut driver to remove the six screws securing the rear access cover.
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Remove the black rear cover plate.
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Use the opening to view the back side of the console wiring.
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Step 3 Release the console
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Slide a putty knife under one end of the console to find the hidden spring clip.
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Press the spring clip in, and lift up to separate the console panel.
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Repeat on the other side of the console.
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Push the console forward, wiggle it, and slide it forward until the timer is easy to access.
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Step 4 Disconnect the timer wiring
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Pull the wire harness connectors off the timer terminals.
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Locate the harness with the A, B, and C terminals, because this is the set that commonly causes no-heat issues.
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Use a putty knife to press the locking tab on the motor connector, and pull the connector out.
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Step 5 Diagnose the timer with a continuity test
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Set a multimeter to continuity mode.
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Set the timer to a high heat portion of the cycle so the A and C contacts should be closed.
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Touch the meter probes to terminals A and C on the timer connector set.
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Treat no continuity between A and C as a likely failed timer contact set.
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Step 6 Remove the timer from the console
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Use a nut driver to remove the timer mounting nuts if the timer is held in with nuts.
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Remove the ground screw attached near the timer.
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Pull the timer knob straight off the timer shaft.
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Lower the timer out of the console, and keep the knob for bench testing.
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Step 7 Open the timer housing
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Place the timer on a work surface.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the timer assembly together.
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Lift the motor assembly off, and set it aside where it won’t get lost.
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Remove the knob if it’s still installed.
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Keep the black side down, and lift off the metal housing.
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Step 8 Inspect the internals for common failures
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Identify the three contact points associated with the A, B, and C terminals.
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Rotate the gearshaft out of high heat and into a low or no-heat mode to separate the contacts.
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Inspect the contact surfaces for corrosion, heat damage, or charring.
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Inspect the plastic gear case and shaft, because a stripped or damaged coupling can make the timer unusable.
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Treat a timer that can’t be rotated normally as a likely non-repairable timer.
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Step 9 Polish the burned contacts
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Remove the cam between C and D if it blocks access, and note its orientation for reinstallation.
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Use an emery board to file and polish the corroded contact surfaces until they look clean and shiny.
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Keep filing until the contact surfaces are evenly polished, which can take five to 15 minutes or more on heavily burned timers.
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Step 10 Retest continuity on the open timer
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Rotate the gearshaft back into a high heat mode, which is commonly in the upper-right quadrant of the dial.
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Set the multimeter to continuity mode.
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Test continuity between A and C using the timer terminals, and treat continuity as a pass result.
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Continue polishing the contacts if A to C still reads open in a high heat position.
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Step 11 Adjust the contact travel if needed
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Sand the plastic stop near the A contact if sanding the metal increased the contact gap and the contacts no longer meet reliably.
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Bend the A contact slightly forward with needle-nose pliers if the contacts still won’t touch after sanding the plastic.
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Step 12 Reassemble the timer and check for binding
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Reinstall any removed cams in their original orientation.
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Install the metal face back onto the timer with the black side down.
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Flip the timer over, and seat the motor assembly onto the gear train.
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Advance the timer slightly if the motor won’t sit all the way down, because the gears may need to align.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the two screws that hold the timer together.
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Rotate the shaft or knob by hand to confirm the timer advances without binding.
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Step 13 Bench test the repaired timer
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Reinstall the knob onto the timer shaft.
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Set the timer to a high heat setting, and test continuity between A and C.
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Test continuity between B and C as an additional check.
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Advance the timer to another high heat region such as auto dry, and confirm the continuity result stays consistent.
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Step 14 Reinstall the timer and test dryer heat
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Reinstall the timer into the console, and secure it with its mounting nuts or clips.
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Reinstall the ground screw and the timer knob.
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Reconnect every wire harness to the correct terminal, and confirm each connector is fully seated and locked.
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Slide the console back into place, and press down until both spring clips latch.
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Reinstall the rear access cover and its six screws.
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Restore power and run a high heat cycle to confirm the dryer heats.
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If the dryer heats again after timer contact polishing and adjustment, keep an eye on performance because this repair often restores function temporarily but does not reverse underlying timer wear. If A to C still reads open on high heat after cleaning and adjustment, the timer has moved past a practical refurbish and should be replaced. Repair didn't go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.
