Introduction
Use this guide to test heating element in your Whirlpool Dryer and replace it if necessary.
A faulty heating element can cause the dryer to overheat, heat poorly, or not heat at all.
This guide is rated Difficult, and while most of the steps are straightforward, the disassembly and reassembly of the heating element can be tricky in addition to the lower front bulkhead and the drum.
This guide will work for most electric Whirlpool dryers. This guide is written with a model WED87HED dryer. If you have a different model, you may encounter some minor disassembly differences, but the overall repair process will be the same.
What you need
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Use a nut driver to remove the screws securing the top panel to the rear panel bracket.
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Grasp the top and slide it 1/2 to 1 inch toward the rear of the machine.
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Lift the control panel up and tilt it away from the chassis to remove it.
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Use a small flat blade screwdriver or a spudger to unlatch both sides of the door switch connector.
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Unplug the connector.
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Remove the upper front panel sheet metal screws.
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Tilt the machine backwards and prop it securely, or have a friend hold it.
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Remove the sheet metal screws on the bottom edge of the panel.
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Pull the bottom of the panel away from the chassis about two to three inches.
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Lift the front panel off the small tabs on the chassis near the top of the panel and remove it.
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Remove the green ground screw.
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Remove the cord terminal block screws.
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Remove the rear panel screws.
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Lift the panel about 1/2 inch and tilt it to the rear to release it from the vent pipe.
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Slide the panel off the vent pipe and remove it.
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Make sure that the vent pipe is fitted into the collar on the panel.
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Make sure the tabs at the bottom are aligned to the bottom rim of the chassis.
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Position the panel so its screw holes match with the chassis.
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Pull the lint filter up out of the lint filter slot to remove it.
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Remove the mounting screws securing the lint filter housing.
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Pull the filter housing outward from the chassis and down to remove it.
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Squeeze the locking tabs on the moisture sensor connector.
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Disconnect the connector.
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Disconnect all of the connectors on the main board front half.
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Remove the sheet metal screw that retains the main board to the main board bracket.
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Lift the rear corner of the main board nearest to the side walls of the chassis.
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Slide the main board toward the front of the dryer to release the tabs securing it to the main board bracket.
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Remove the sheet metal screw holding the main board bracket.
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Lift off the main board bracket from the chassis and turn it so the bottom is exposed.
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Using long nose or slip joint pliers, pinch the locking wings of the harness retainer clamp.
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Separate the harness from the main board bracket and remove the main board bracket.
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Remove the screws securing the upper front bulkhead to the front of the chassis.
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Remove the sheet metal screws securing the top plastic portion to the upper front bulkhead.
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Push the idler arm (the metal upside-down "L") up to relieve the tension on the drive belt.
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Remove the belt from the motor pulley.
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Gently lower the idler arm until it rests parallel to the dryer floor.
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While supporting the drum, lift the lower front bulkhead off of the hooks on the chassis.
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Use the belt to lift the drum a few inches.
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Swing the drum out of the front of the dryer.
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The next three steps show how to disconnect and test the heating element.
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Disconnect the spade connectors attached to the heating element.
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If the heating element has only two terminals, you will just check the resistance between those terminals.
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If there are three terminals (common on newer machines, and shown here), check the resistance between the middle common terminal and each of the element terminals.
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(For three terminal heaters only) Check the resistance between the top and bottom terminals.
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(All types) Check resistance from the each terminal to the heater housing.
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The next four steps show how to disconnect and remove the hi-limit thermostat and inlet thermistor.
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Pull the spade connectors straight off to disconnect the hi-limit thermostat portion of the hi-limit thermostat/inlet thermistor unit.
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Free the inlet thermistor connector by lifting the black locking tab with a small flathead screwdriver or spudger.
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Once freed, pull the connector straight out to disconnect the inlet thermistor.
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Remove the sheet metal screws securing the hi-limit thermostat/inlet thermistor unit.
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Remove the unit by pulling it straight out from the mounting hole.
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The following three steps show how to remove the thermal cutoff switch.
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Pull the two thermal cutoff switch spade connectors straight out of their slots to disconnect them.
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Remove the sheet metal screws securing the thermal cutoff switch.
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Remove the thermal cutoff switch by lifting it off of the heater housing.
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Remove the sheet metal screws securing the heater housing cover.
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Lift the front of the heater housing cover to release the tabs securing it to the inlet housing pipe.
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Remove the heater housing cover.
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Lift the heating element out of the slots in the lower part of the heater housing.
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Remove the heating element.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.
3 Comments
Hi have fitted new thermal cutout new stat and new element still not getting hot
Hi have replaced thermal cutout Thermostat and heating element everything works except heat
Is there no heat on any cycle? I would look at the connections on the main Board, also called the Cycle Control Unit. Unplug and replug all of them especially the ones with heavier gauge wire. Another issue may be the centrifugal switch on your motor. Given that the unit runs properly except for no heat, and you have replaced the heating element, I strongly suspect the centrifugal switch. The centrifugal switch is not easy to check since the best check is to run the machine. I would try to trace the wire from the common terminal of your element to the centrifugal switch on the motor. Then see if you can trace the wire from the centrifugal switch to the electrical supply cord. You may be able to operate the centrifugal switch with your fingers to see if the contacts c;lose properly.Check the switch for continuity when it is in the running mode
An outside possibility is that one side of a 2 pole circuit breaker has tripped. If the "right" one has tripped, the dryer will spin but not heat. Check your breaker.
