Image 1/3: Have patience! These are held in with glue and can take time and a few attempts to remove. Image 2/3: Using a PH00 screwdriver, remove the 5.8mm screws found beneath each rubber cover (4 total). Image 3/3: Using a PH00 screwdriver, remove the 5.8mm screws found beneath each rubber cover (4 total).
  • Using your spudger or metal tweezers, work the rubber screw covers out of their sockets, found on each of the four corners of the back cover.

  • Have patience! These are held in with glue and can take time and a few attempts to remove.

  • Using a PH00 screwdriver, remove the 5.8mm screws found beneath each rubber cover (4 total).

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Image 1/3: Starting near the charging port, work in one direction around the perimeter of the device. Image 2/3: Do not insert prying tool deeper than is necessary to separate back cover. You may damage other components! Image 3/3: Lift off back cover to reveal the interior of the device.
  • Using the flat end of your prying tool, work the back cover away from the rest of the gTabet.

  • Starting near the charging port, work in one direction around the perimeter of the device.

  • Do not insert prying tool deeper than is necessary to separate back cover. You may damage other components!

  • Lift off back cover to reveal the interior of the device.

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Image 1/3: There is tape holding several wires in place. This must be removed before the battery can be removed. Peel it gently; you will want to use it later. Image 2/3: There is tape holding several wires in place. This must be removed before the battery can be removed. Peel it gently; you will want to use it later. Image 3/3: There is tape holding several wires in place. This must be removed before the battery can be removed. Peel it gently; you will want to use it later.
  • The battery is the large black square that dominates much of the device interior.

  • There is tape holding several wires in place. This must be removed before the battery can be removed. Peel it gently; you will want to use it later.

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Image 1/3: The white connector(red markup) comes off while the off white connector(orange markup) stays on the motherboard. Image 2/3: The white connector(red markup) comes off while the off white connector(orange markup) stays on the motherboard. Image 3/3: The white connector(red markup) comes off while the off white connector(orange markup) stays on the motherboard.
  • Using a PLASTIC tool of your choice, push both ends of the power cable connector, one at a time, away from its housing. This will slowly wiggle the connector out of place.

  • The white connector(red markup) comes off while the off white connector(orange markup) stays on the motherboard.

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Image 1/3: Pull the camera out of its housing and move it aside. Image 2/3: Be sure to move any wires out of the way before attempting to move the battery, as these are still connected and shouldn't be stressed! Image 3/3: Gently lift the battery up and away from the rest of the device and set it aside.
  • Using tweezers, remove the protective foam backing arch from the front-facing camera.

  • Pull the camera out of its housing and move it aside.

  • Be sure to move any wires out of the way before attempting to move the battery, as these are still connected and shouldn't be stressed!

  • Gently lift the battery up and away from the rest of the device and set it aside.

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Image 1/3: Two additional connections must be undone before moving on. One can be found to the right of the front facing camera housing on the motherboard. It is small; treat it gently. Image 2/3: An identical connection can be found next to the antenna connection of the motherboard, diagonally across from the one you just disconnected. Image 3/3: Now all necessary wire connections have been undone and the motherboard can safely be removed.
  • Disconnect the LCD Video cable, shown to the right of the battery power housing. Gentle application of pliers is acceptable for this extra large connector.

  • Two additional connections must be undone before moving on. One can be found to the right of the front facing camera housing on the motherboard. It is small; treat it gently.

  • An identical connection can be found next to the antenna connection of the motherboard, diagonally across from the one you just disconnected.

  • Now all necessary wire connections have been undone and the motherboard can safely be removed.

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Image 1/3: Two of the screws are different from the others. The majority of them are 3.3mm. The outliers are 5.9mm(orange) & 5.7mm (yellow).  It is recommended that you make a "Motherboard Pile"; a designated area for the screws needed to hold the motherboard in place. Image 2/3: Gently lift the motherboard away from the remainder of the device. Set aside in an anti-static bag if you have one.  If not, avoid placing it on surfaces prone to static shocks (fabric or metal for instance). Image 3/3: Gently lift the motherboard away from the remainder of the device. Set aside in an anti-static bag if you have one.  If not, avoid placing it on surfaces prone to static shocks (fabric or metal for instance).
  • The motherboard is mounted to the chassis by 8 screws, which must be removed.

  • Two of the screws are different from the others. The majority of them are 3.3mm. The outliers are 5.9mm(orange) & 5.7mm (yellow). It is recommended that you make a "Motherboard Pile"; a designated area for the screws needed to hold the motherboard in place.

  • Gently lift the motherboard away from the remainder of the device. Set aside in an anti-static bag if you have one. If not, avoid placing it on surfaces prone to static shocks (fabric or metal for instance).

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Image 1/3: The glue holding this component on is strong; it takes patience to pry off the plastic covering without separating it from the electronics inside.  Pry with a spudger in small increments.  With patience, it will come undone. Image 2/3: Finally, begin removing the chassis of the LCD screen by removing the 6 screws (4.5mm) found around the perimeter of the chassis with a PH00 screwdriver. The sevelth screw, circled in yellow, is stationary and must simply be loosened. Image 3/3: As with the other screw sets, it is recommended you set these screws aside in their own area to avoid confusion.
  • There is another circuit board affixed to the LCD chassis (back covering) that must be removed before the chassis can be unscrewed.

  • The glue holding this component on is strong; it takes patience to pry off the plastic covering without separating it from the electronics inside. Pry with a spudger in small increments. With patience, it will come undone.

  • Finally, begin removing the chassis of the LCD screen by removing the 6 screws (4.5mm) found around the perimeter of the chassis with a PH00 screwdriver. The sevelth screw, circled in yellow, is stationary and must simply be loosened.

  • As with the other screw sets, it is recommended you set these screws aside in their own area to avoid confusion.

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Image 1/3: Lift the LCD screen from the "top" of the device (the long side with the front facing camera). There is a small piece of double sided tape holding it in place on the bottom; continue lifting to free it. Image 2/3: The LCD should still have its video cable attached when the LCD component is removed. In this picture, it is missing. If it is accidentally removed (as in this case) it can be easily reconnected. Image 3/3: The LCD should still have its video cable attached when the LCD component is removed. In this picture, it is missing. If it is accidentally removed (as in this case) it can be easily reconnected.
  • Remove the LCD Chassis. Notice the antenna and accompanying wire stay attached.

  • Lift the LCD screen from the "top" of the device (the long side with the front facing camera). There is a small piece of double sided tape holding it in place on the bottom; continue lifting to free it.

  • The LCD should still have its video cable attached when the LCD component is removed. In this picture, it is missing. If it is accidentally removed (as in this case) it can be easily reconnected.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Cristian

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UMass Dartmouth, Team 4-1, Miles Fall 2014 Member of UMass Dartmouth, Team 4-1, Miles Fall 2014

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