Very important!

Before disassembling, make sure to disconnect from power!

Furthermore, I recommend documenting well where each screw belongs so that there are no problems during reassembly!

Depending on how long the fan has been in use, more or less dust will have accumulated inside, so having a vacuum cleaner on hand is a good idea ;-)

First, I recommend removing the stand

it is attached to the tower with 3 screws, and

the power cable is then secured with 4 additional screws

after that, the stand only needs to be threaded off over the power cable

The latter can be removed at the earliest from step 5

Now it is the turn of the stainless steel cover on the upper side next to the control buttons

it is secured with 2 screws

to expose these, the Trisa logo which is glued on must be removed.

Afterwards, the side stainless steel cover can be removed

it is hooked in at the upper side

therefore, the simplest solution to remove the cover is to slide it upwards

can then also simply be pressed back onto the housing during reassembly, only having to slide the last few millimeters with the hook into the final position; here, also absolutely ensure that the hook is flush with the housing!

Now the plastic housing can be disassembled.

It is held together on the outside by 5 screws.

2 of them are hidden at the top in the niche where the remote control can be inserted.

3 others are hidden in the lower part behind plastic covers; to remove these, I recommend a thin screwdriver for prying.

After removing the screws, the housing is now only held together by the snap-fit connectors.

These can be separated relatively easily by prying them with a screwdriver.

I started at the bottom and worked my way up to the top for this.

Now the internals should be exposed, such as:

the wiring

the motors

the circuit boards

the rotor blades

This means there is effectively nothing left in the way of cleaning / troubleshooting

In my case, the reason for the issue was the lower bearing of the rotor blades, which had already partially broken through, ultimately leading to a significant imbalance.

In the next step, I will explain how to remove the rotor blades and how I solved the problem in my case.

The rotor blades are only supported at the top and bottom at the ends,

the bottom bearing is merely fastened with a screw directly to the motor shaft and

the top bearing is fastened with 3 screws to the inside of the housing.

From here on, I will explain the problem with the bottom bearing and how I solved it for myself.

As already mentioned, it had already partially broken; more precisely, the plastic part which was glued onto a metal sleeve, which in turn was screwed onto the motor shaft.

Since the plastic part was already beginning to disintegrate, I removed it as best I could and finally found a reasonably suitable plastic part in my parts bins (very likely from the plumbing sector) which I shaped into the desired form using a utility knife and countersink drill bit.

Ultimately, I was able to get the fan running again with the trimmed plastic part, which will hopefully extend its service life for a few more years.

Side note: frankly, I find it somewhat dubious that the load-bearing component at the most critical point consists only of plastic from the factory, especially where the rotational and shear forces occur due to the weight of the rotor blades. In my eyes, it is a component with a foreseeable expiration date...shame on them...

If everything works again now, reassembly is basically just the reverse order of the disassembly ^^

If you have removed the rotor blades, I would like to point out here that it is very important to tighten the screw of the lower bearing at the flattened spot ("chamfer") of the motor shaft to ensure the best possible power transmission! I did not notice any special features regarding the upper bearing.

For the plastic housing, I highly recommend making sure that the internal connectors really close cleanly and flush, as later corrections are de facto impossible! After that, the 5 screws in total can be driven back in; in my view, the order was not important.

Now the stainless steel covers

First, the side one must be put back on. To attach it quickly, simply press it onto the plastic housing, it is important here that the hook is on the upper side and to let it stick out a few mm over the housing, in order to then just slide the cover the last few mm into position

With the side one in its final position, the cover on the upper side can now be screwed back on

Finally, the base. Here I recommend placing the tower upside down on a carpet, for example, ideally with a few extra helping hands so it is not too wobbly.

To now correctly screw the base back on, I used the power cable routing as a guide; it was then relatively clear in which position the base should be. As soon as the 3 screws are sunk back into their places, only the 4 that secure the power cable are missing.

Now that everything is screwed back on tight, your little tower should purr again just like on the first day; that was the case for me, at least =)

At this point, I can only hope that I was able to help you out with this ;-)