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SteelSeries Arctis Pro Plus GameDAC Volume Control Wheel Replacement

What you need

  1. SteelSeries Arctis Pro Plus GameDAC Volume Control Wheel Replacement, Headset Ear Cushions: step 1, image 1 of 2 SteelSeries Arctis Pro Plus GameDAC Volume Control Wheel Replacement, Headset Ear Cushions: step 1, image 2 of 2
    • Lift the edge of the cushion and pull out slightly.

    • Work your way around the cushion until it comes off completely.

    • Repeat for the other cushion.

  2. SteelSeries Arctis Pro Plus GameDAC Volume Control Wheel Replacement, Headset Circuit Board: step 2, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the three 5mm screws with a Phillips #0 driver head on the headphone with the microphone.

  3. SteelSeries Arctis Pro Plus GameDAC Volume Control Wheel Replacement: step 3, image 1 of 1
    • Lift the speaker off the headset to expose the circuit board.

    • Be careful not to lift the speaker too quickly or too forcefully to prevent the wires from being pulled out of their connections.

  4. SteelSeries Arctis Pro Plus GameDAC Volume Control Wheel Replacement: step 4, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the three 5mm screws using a Phillips #0 driver head.

  5. SteelSeries Arctis Pro Plus GameDAC Volume Control Wheel Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 1
    • Lift the circuit board out of the plastic housing.

    • Press in on the volume wheel while pulling on the circuit board to help maneuver the circuit board out of the housing.

  6. SteelSeries Arctis Pro Plus GameDAC Volume Control Wheel Replacement, Headset Volume Control Wheel: step 6, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the 5mm screw using a Phillips #000 driver head.

  7. SteelSeries Arctis Pro Plus GameDAC Volume Control Wheel Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 2 SteelSeries Arctis Pro Plus GameDAC Volume Control Wheel Replacement: step 7, image 2 of 2
    • Pull on the wheel to remove it from the circuit board.

  8. SteelSeries Arctis Pro Plus GameDAC Volume Control Wheel Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 2 SteelSeries Arctis Pro Plus GameDAC Volume Control Wheel Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 2
    • Flip over the circuit board and desolder the five pins to remove the wheel mechanism from the circuit board.

    • For help desoldering connections, follow this useful guide on How To Solder and Desolder Connections.

    • Use caution when soldering. The heated tip may cause damage to the board or burn you.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

6 other people completed this guide.

Kyle Chang

Member since: 01/24/19

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Team

Cal Poly, Team S18-G1, White Winter 2019 Member of Cal Poly, Team S18-G1, White Winter 2019

CPSU-WHITE-W19S18G1

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6 Comments

What is the part number of the replacement potentiometer?

Srijal Poojari - Reply

What is the part/model number of the potentiometer? I want to replace mine since it’s having issues.

Wantei - Reply

For anyone having static noise or discontinuity when you’re moving the volume wheel, it might be due to oxidation inside the potentiometer.

I managed to fix mine with some electrical contact cleaner (such as DeOxit, I used something available locally though). First make sure your headphones are turned off!

What you can do is, get a cleaner with a fine tip nozzle and point it at the sides of the potentiometer (see step 7 pic 2) that is the joint between the metal and the top plastic. Once that is done, out on the scroll wheel and move it around to make sure the solution spreads. Then take off the scroll wheel again (and keep it somewhere safe!), let everything completely dry up.

Once it’s dry you can put everything back together again, or if there’s some residue on the PCB, you can clean it up using some 90% isopropyl alcohol. Once you make sure that everything is completely dry you can try turning it on again and check if your problem has been fixed.

Wantei -

For anybody who did this, I’m curious about the wheel. From the pictures it seems that the inside of the wheel is some rigid plastic, and it locks onto the potentiometer with those straights sides. The outside of the wheel seems like some kind of rubber enclosing the inner wheel. On my headset, I keep accidentally forcing the wheel when handling the headset, and at one point I turned the wheel ‘up’ beyond its max position. Since I see here that the inner plastic locks onto the potentiometer, I don’t think I managed to turn that (since it would probably break the thing), and instead I turned the outer flexible rubber around the inner rigid plastic. I’m a little apprehensive about this, it really doesn’t inspire high build quality because of this, I’m afraid I can accidentally break it. So what do you guys think about simply setting the potentiometer to the max position, and removing the wheel altogether. Do you think this poses a risk, leaving that wheel hole empty like that?

andrei.nitu - Reply

I was able to follow the instructions and used it to tighten the potentiometer as it was loose. The circuit board is slightly a pain to get out and in.

Brendon Perkins - Reply

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