What you need
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The dishwasher outputs error messages using blink codes. I found the following listing:
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1 flash: NTC error
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Flashes 3x: Error in the heating system
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Flashes 4x: pumping error
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Flashes 6x: Water tap closed
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Flashes 7x: Flow meter error
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Flashes 8x: Water level error
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Flashes 9x: constant water supply
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In general, the machine should be disconnected from the power supply before any work. It is also advisable to close the water supply tap.
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Lower the rear part of the machine using the plastic part marked in red (6 mm Allen key, turn clockwise).
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Prefer the machine so that it is free and you can work on it easily. It may also be connected to the kitchen worktop with additional screws.
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Then loosen the four screws (Torx 15) of the lower front cover and remove it
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Then loosen the left side panel, a total of six more screws (Torx 15) have to be loosened: three covered by the front flap (one marked in blue as an example), two on the back and one on the side. The latter has a different thread and must end up in the same position again when reassembling.
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On the left is the flow meter (flow sensor). The machine uses it to determine the amount of water flowing in.
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To do this, part of the water is diverted past a small turbine. There is a magnet on the turbine. If the turbine rotates, a reed contact (marked red) is switched through with each rotation.
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If the machine reports an error on the flow meter, either the turbine is stuck or the reed contact is defective.
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The reed contact is soldered onto a small circuit board that can easily be pulled out of its holder.
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It can be tested with a multimeter. In the initial state, the resistance between the two terminals should be "infinity". If you hold a magnet close, the resistance should be close to zero.
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If the reed contact does not work as desired, you can unsolder it and exchange it for another one. During operation, there are approx. 20V on the circuit board, the reed contact does not have to be able to withstand more switching voltage. For example, KSK 1A663 2025 from Reichelt works as a replacement.
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With a bit of searching you can also find the complete circuit board as a spare part. However, the repair is then considerably more expensive.
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Follow the steps in reverse order to reassemble your device.
In order to replace other parts, e.g. the circulation pump, the heater or the inlet valve, further parts of the paneling may have to be unscrewed.
It is also worth checking the cable duct on the lower part of the front flap (you can see it from below if you lie on the floor). This seems to break easily, which can lead to cable breaks.
Follow the steps in reverse order to reassemble your device.
In order to replace other parts, e.g. the circulation pump, the heater or the inlet valve, further parts of the paneling may have to be unscrewed.
It is also worth checking the cable duct on the lower part of the front flap (you can see it from below if you lie on the floor). This seems to break easily, which can lead to cable breaks.
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