Danger
Potentially Dangerous
Injury may result if this procedure is not followed properly. Use caution and follow all warnings.
Danger

Introduction

This guide will probably only be required in the event the front glass is removed (following the guide found here Samsung Galaxy S III Broken Front Glass Replacement) and the LCD display is cracked.

Alternatively if you want to glue the LCD display to the replacement glass using clear glue you may find it easier to do this with the display removed.

This is not to be attempted by the faint of heart and whilst you won't damage the phone you may damage the display, as such I would only recommend this in the event the display is damaged and not working.

Use the iOpener instead of the heat gun if you have one to remove the front glass, it makes life easier and massively reduces the risk of damaging the phone due to excess heat.

This guide include the steps for the removal of the front glass however SKIP steps 12-15 (the last steps of the front glass) as these detail actually reattaching the front glass which you won't be doing at this point

The following four steps can be accomplished without a plastic opening tool. However, it's recommended to use a  tool to best avoid breaking any clips along the perimeter of the rear case. Insert a plastic opening tool or fingernail into the notch in the gap between the rear case and the rest of the phone, located at the top of the device.
  • The following four steps can be accomplished without a plastic opening tool. However, it's recommended to use a tool to best avoid breaking any clips along the perimeter of the rear case.

  • Insert a plastic opening tool or fingernail into the notch in the gap between the rear case and the rest of the phone, located at the top of the device.

  • Gently twist the opening tool to disconnect the clips securing the top of the rear case.

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Slide the plastic opening tool left along the top edge and repeat the twisting motion to widen the gap between the rear case and the phone. Slide the plastic opening tool left along the top edge and repeat the twisting motion to widen the gap between the rear case and the phone.
  • Slide the plastic opening tool left along the top edge and repeat the twisting motion to widen the gap between the rear case and the phone.

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Continue to move the plastic opening tool around the perimeter of the top left corner, gently prying up along the rear case. Continue to move the plastic opening tool around the perimeter of the top left corner, gently prying up along the rear case.
  • Continue to move the plastic opening tool around the perimeter of the top left corner, gently prying up along the rear case.

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Pry along the top right side, and continue prying down the right side of the rear case. Pry along the top right side, and continue prying down the right side of the rear case.
  • Pry along the top right side, and continue prying down the right side of the rear case.

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Lift up and remove the rear case from the phone. You may need to peel the case up to separate it from any clips still holding it to the bottom of the phone.
  • Lift up and remove the rear case from the phone.

  • You may need to peel the case up to separate it from any clips still holding it to the bottom of the phone.

very easy to follow instructions clear and concise

Deric JONES - Reply

Using your fingernail, push the SIM card slightly deeper into its slot, until you hear a click. After the click, release the card and it will pop out of its slot. For reassembly, push the SIM card into the slot until it clicks in place.
  • Using your fingernail, push the SIM card slightly deeper into its slot, until you hear a click.

  • After the click, release the card and it will pop out of its slot.

  • For reassembly, push the SIM card into the slot until it clicks in place.

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Use your thumb to slide enough of the SIM card out of its slot to grab ahold of it. Grasp and remove the SIM card away from the phone. Grasp and remove the SIM card away from the phone.
  • Use your thumb to slide enough of the SIM card out of its slot to grab ahold of it.

  • Grasp and remove the SIM card away from the phone.

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Using your fingernail, push the microSD card slightly deeper into its slot, until you hear a click. After the click, release the card and it will pop out of its slot. For reassembly, push the microSD card into the slot until it clicks in place.
  • Using your fingernail, push the microSD card slightly deeper into its slot, until you hear a click.

  • After the click, release the card and it will pop out of its slot.

  • For reassembly, push the microSD card into the slot until it clicks in place.

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Use your thumb to slide the microSD card out of the slot. Remove the microSD card from the phone.
  • Use your thumb to slide the microSD card out of the slot.

  • Remove the microSD card from the phone.

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If your phone already has a protective screen applied to it, you are ready to begin.
  • If your phone already has a protective screen applied to it, you are ready to begin.

  • If it doesn't, cut a piece of packaging tape the size of the screen and apply it to the screen. This will help you remove the broken glass later.

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With a plastic opening tool, pry open the back case. It will come out very easily. With a plastic opening tool, pry open the back case. It will come out very easily.

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Take out the battery. There are no cables attached.
  • Take out the battery. There are no cables attached.

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If your provider/version of phone takes a SIM card, remove it by pushing it in a bit until you hear a small click, and then slide it out. Sprint USA does not use SIM card.
  • If your provider/version of phone takes a SIM card, remove it by pushing it in a bit until you hear a small click, and then slide it out.

  • Sprint USA does not use SIM card.

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You need to have lots of patience in this procedure. Take your time.
  • You need to have lots of patience in this procedure. Take your time.

  • Using an infrared thermometer heat the surface to 170-180° F (roughly 70-80° C). This will loosen the glue but not damage the electronics.

  • Hold the gun at about 3 inches from your phone (in this picture it looks like its right on top). With the heat gun set to low, heat up the borders for about 3 to 5 minutes depending on the strength of your heat gun.

  • You must be careful when using the heat gun on this device. If the device is heated up too much then it may melt the digitizer and cause discoloration. If you start to see any discoloration then shut off the gun immediately.

  • If you are working with a hair dryer, it might take up to 1 hour.

  • This melts the glue that holds the glass to the frame and to the display. The glass is glued to them.

Hi, regarding Step 6, I haven't got a heat gun and I'm not going to use a hair-dryer since I would be sitting there for hours. I noticed someone talking about the iOpener cushion(?) and wanted to know if it would be an effective substitute? Since it looks like a pretty wide item and could heat up not just the borders but the entire front?

Also people are saying there is some sort of gel on the actual LCD while others are saying there is only adhesive on the edges? Which is it and what should I do to not damage the actual LCD?

Minesh Patel - Reply

Hi Minesh! I have not tried to open a samsung with te iopener but i do think it would be a safer way to soften up the glue at the borders.

In my experience, the "gel" that goes between the glass and the lcd does need to be heated up so that it loosens up. It feels like a gel but its a layer of a special glue that is used to fill that air gap. That glue comes in layers and it might be a little hard to find and to apply. If you search the comments on the different steps there is a hack that involves putting a screen protector on the back of the glass, Dan Phillips posted it up.

Angela Penaherrera -

Here is the original comment by Dan:

Ive replaced a few of these screens with new glass and the double sided tape. Only issue that has always happed is that the glass will touch the digitizer in the middle once in awhile. This registers a touch that is stuck on and locks up the rest of the touch screen. The only work around is pressing on the glass around the outside of the lcd to release the unwanted touch. Tonight I discovered a great method for curing that problem. I removed the glass and cleaned up very well. Then applied a cut down screen protector for a LG spectrum to underside of the glass to bridge the gap between the glass and the digitzer. Retaped and assembled. This has worked perfect to correct and the screen looks great! Make sure to buy a screen protector that is clear. A protector that is anti-glare would dim the display. With the clear you cant tell its there. Very happy with the results!! Dan

Angela Penaherrera -

Because i had problems and the touchscreen still sticks on the glas, i highly recommend the following video!

It shows how you separate the whole glas - not just the top, edge and side. You have to unglue the the touchscreen too!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANL9MgegX...

Here you can see how the touchscreen unglues from the glas by heating the glas (1:40) (german):

http://youtu.be/icxls5923O8?t=1m40s

ezkay - Reply

I used a meat thermometer (range 0 to 120°C) to watch the temperature (placed the tip of the thermometer directly on the front glass in order to stay within the range of 70-80°C). Worked fine - everthing is working like before the replacement.

WZett - Reply

Dude! good call. As long as you don't hold the thermometer in the hair drier/gun's heat you can easily save $20 by not buying the IR thermometer. That said, I really like my IR thermometer, very handy to have around the house if.

Jon Bosche -

Rather than use the wire mentioned to separate glass from LCD I used dental floss. I'm really curious though as to whether you can actually use the double sided 3M tape that comes with the kit to glue the glass to the LCD, not just the little bit that goes around the edges but the whole LCD. No idea how to get it on though with out it being all bubbly or would reheating it help? any ideas

janferrari - Reply

  • Using a guitar pick or a plastic opening tool, very carefully start to work separating the edges of the glass.

  • Make sure to go from top to bottom.

  • You will need to use the heat gun a number of times as you go down separating the glass. For glasses with lots of damage you will need to go extra carefully as to not damage the LCD with the shattered glass pieces.

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When you start separating the screen, you need to start from the top borders and work your way to the center, ungluing the whole screen from top to bottom. Leave some opening tools in to prevent the glass from bonding again to the LCD.
  • When you start separating the screen, you need to start from the top borders and work your way to the center, ungluing the whole screen from top to bottom. Leave some opening tools in to prevent the glass from bonding again to the LCD.

  • Be extra careful when you get to the bottom because the menu buttons are glued to the glass.

  • Do not pull the glass just yet, you might damage the cables. Pull the screen from the top to the bottom to the point where you can see the menu and return button cables.

I followed these instructions but when I pulled up the digitizer was still attached to the front glass. I don't know what I did wrong. I didn't see any tips in the main article that mentioned this could happen. The digitizer was to thin to detach from the screen after and broke when I gently tried to remove it.

Bryan Gray - Reply

I did the same... Digitizer came up with my front glass. FOR THE UNAWARE (as I was), the digitizer is a rectangle panel that looks like glass and is very easy to accidentally pull up and crack (especially if you are wedging guitar picks and the like in there). The bottom right corner of the phone (where the Back button is located) is where the digitizer ribbon is located. The fat, yellow digitizer ribbon is actually UNDER the digitizer panel, and the black ribbon for the Menu & Back buttons is located between the digitizer panel and the front glass. You will not be able to use your phone if you break the digitizer or its ribbon so bear this in mind when removing the glass. :(

Jess -

I too did the same thing. No where was there ANY mention of the digitizer. Now I need to order a part that's over $100 compared to the $8 for just the screen. Siver lining....learned for future DIY screen repairs...I figured out that using a very thin piece of wire was much easier in seperating the screen from the phone.

Tonya. Nov. 21

Tonya - Reply

Oh, oh, oh my!!! So stinking excited to have found this!!! Ordering a kit on ebay that seems to have all the necessary pieces and supplies. I own a heat gun...Bring on The Geek!!!

Dev Rajhansa - Reply

We followed a different guide (from another site) and didn't know that the button cables were attached......sliced right through it! Now the lcd screen is displaying purple-ish/magenta streaks, anyone else experience this too? If we replace the button cables, is there then a way to "fix" this problem other than replacing the lcd?

Mom of 3 - Reply

I got the same yesterday. It is due to too much heat of LCD. Unfortunatelly irreversible.

Umit Arabul -

hi i changed the screen "plastic" but i have a problem with the display now. it doesn't work at all. how can i check if the display is not working anymore or just the connection with it is lost??????? help pls ASAP!!!!!! THANK YOU! :))))))

bernadettanzik - Reply

Hi, was the display working before you changed the front glass? There is no "plastic", you should had taken out the front glass that was glued to the display. I would recommend checking all the connections to the logic board.

Angela Penaherrera -

Wear safety glasses, set your work area up right, and ensure the area you are working on is a high enough temperature (be patient!). I started with a simple horizontal crack, and because I wasn't working at a high enough temperature the entire top half finely cracked into a fine spiderweb, and accompanied by a rainbow shower of extremely fine glass flakes. The showering glass flakes made me immediately reach for safety glasses, and the spiderweb yielded over an hour of fine tweezer-work and a finely scratched digitizer. I also highly recommend setting up your work area with the heat source suspended at an appropriate distance (so that the maximum temp is not above 200F) above your work area. With the heat source hands-free you can hold the phone with a gloved hand while gently working with your other hand.

Jacob - Reply

Soooo, what do you do if you slice through the return and menu buttons?

Sam - Reply

Extra attention is necessary with this step, don't damage the buttons or cable!  With a spudger, detach the buttons from the inner side of the glass. This might require a little extra heat. Also, the best strategy is to start in the middle, under the black ribbon that connects the two buttons, and then move sideways to separate each one. *Edit* Thanks to the awesome guy or gal who uploaded the missing pics ^__^
  • Extra attention is necessary with this step, don't damage the buttons or cable! With a spudger, detach the buttons from the inner side of the glass. This might require a little extra heat. Also, the best strategy is to start in the middle, under the black ribbon that connects the two buttons, and then move sideways to separate each one.

  • *Edit* Thanks to the awesome guy or gal who uploaded the missing pics ^__^

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Take out the broken glass. I was able to take it all in one piece.
  • Take out the broken glass. I was able to take it all in one piece.

  • If your glass is very shattered you will need to pick up the small pieces with tweezers, one by one or stick tape to the glass before you take it out. You can also use screen protectors.

Hi! Do i need bonding adhesive digitzer to LCD?

service - Reply

Hello,

No, you don't need bonding adhesive =)

Angela Penaherrera -

Removed the front glass off my S3 left with what looks like a plastic sheet what is part of the button ribbon. Should this have lifted? Can this still be replaced?

Karl - Reply

Hi! I would recommend that you post a question and attach pictures of what happened.

Angela Penaherrera -

1st of all folks who are having trouble removing the glass and pulling up the lcd with it you didn't heat it long enough or hot enough the lcd is capable of handling temps of over 100 I use a hot air soldering station and gave it set @ 105 Celsius and if u heat not only the front glass but also the back of the frame this will help the loca adhesive melt also once its hot enough instead of using a pry tool all the down the screen try to get a thin metal wire like the thinnest guitar string or something close to it then wrap each end around your index fingers of each hand and slide it back and forth between the lcd and glass work you way towards the bottom use ur heat gun or blow dryer if it gets hard to move towards bottom in a minute you will have the glass off. This is nearly the same method they use in . A shop expect they heat the screen using a heat table. It much safer then prying your screen up and it will work with a hair dryer or heat gun too.

Dean - Reply

I am also having this kind of problem. I've been following guides to a T and it always seems there is something I am not doing right. I did a good glass swap on a s4 and the touch isn't very responsive. It works for the most part, but instead of being able to press and hold apps in order to move them around, it just opens them.

I began thinking I needed to apply new adhesive to the body of the glass (where your finger would touch) and it looks so incredibly awful I'm to embarrassed to even list it for sale. Works perfectly, but looks terrible.

What am I doing wrong!!??

jeremiahcrosby87 - Reply

Take this small metal piece from your old glass, you will need to put it in the new one.
  • Take this small metal piece from your old glass, you will need to put it in the new one.

Remove the Earpiece Speaker Mesh Cover for Samsung Galaxy S3.

Properly place it in the frame.. Align before installing the new glass!

ross - Reply

Clean up the glue that remains on the borders. A small microfiber with a bit of WD40 or windex can help you take all the glue off.
  • Clean up the glue that remains on the borders. A small microfiber with a bit of WD40 or windex can help you take all the glue off.

    • Be sure to not use too much WD40 or windex.

    • When cleaning out the glue, do NOT attempt to scrap glue out of the cracks between the LCD and the frame. A very small amount of force toward the center or from underneath will crack the LED.

  • Cut up two small 1mm pieces of the sticker tape and glue the buttons to the phone to keep them in place.

    • It's very important to make sure the buttons line up exactly with the picture.

I found that the best technique here (if using the tape shown in the picture) is to cut a piece longer than you need. Leave the backing on the tape. Then, start on one end and place the tape like normal. This will result in extra tape dangling on one side. If you touch the sticky side of the extra tape, it will stick to your finger and separate from the paper. Pull the paper off, and then cut the tape to the correct size.

Christopher Nies - Reply

Great, works perfect.Only comment I have is with the new screen, if you push a bit hard (like when to move a pictogram) the fhone blocks, put him in standby (button right on the fhone) en back ok when you start again. I don't now why, that wasn't before. Possible no gel between the glas and LCD the reason ??

wilf - Reply

Hi Angela, I have fixed about 10 galaxys 3 now. But lately the last two I have, I have been having trouble with the touch screen after I fixed it. But only on certain areas. Like on the bottom right and left corner. Everywhere else its fine. What do you think Im doing wrong? Too much heat? (whats the temp you use?) I use the old adhesive and I apply new adheasive on top? I dont used LOCA glue? any suggestions will help. Thanks

ro1and - Reply

Hi! It could be too much heat, I try to use just enough to separate the glass with a little effort. My heat gun has only 2 temperatures.

"Ive replaced a few of these screens with new glass and the double sided tape. Only issue that has always happed is that the glass will touch the digitizer in the middle once in awhile. This registers a touch that is stuck on and locks up the rest of the touch screen. The only work around is pressing on the glass around the outside of the lcd to release the unwanted touch. Tonight I discovered a great method for curing that problem. I removed the glass and cleaned up very well. Then applied a cut down screen protector for a LG spectrum to underside of the glass to bridge the gap between the glass and the digitzer. Retaped and assembled. This has worked perfect to correct and the screen looks great! Make sure to buy a screen protector that is clear. A protector that is anti-glare would dim the display. With the clear you cant tell its there. Very happy with the results!! Dan"

Angela Penaherrera -

That comment was from Dan Phillips, I would try that out too! ^_^

Angela Penaherrera -

Nice guide. My phone is fixed now and back to normal operation. Thanks :)

Although I would have liked to be informed about that gel layer between the display and the glass cover before. Nobody talked about that. Everybody just talks about the glue. But there is only adhesive tape on the edges ... The main part of the screen is the gel layer to separate. This is not glue. With this procedure you will loose the gel layer and therefore have an air gap between the display and the glass cover. This results in more reflections and might lead to dust particles sitting between the screen and the glass layer as well.

I took some shots of the process ... In the lower right picture you can see the gel layer I am talking about https://www.flickr.com/photos/d5e/138409...

muham3661 - Reply

Tru, this guide doesn't mention the gel layer and it really should cos without that gel leyer the end result is really bad! Faded, washed out screen that will break too easily. Watch this video to find out why: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxQ76Rxe1...

matt -

Hi there,

I recently replaced the front panel glass on Samsung Galaxy S3. I used a heat gun to remove the broken glass. I used isopropyl alcohol to clean the surface underneath the glass. I also used 2mm double sided sticky tape in the borders to sit the new glass down on top. I used an Optically Clear Adhesive OCA Film Sheet to bond the new glass to the LCD screen. You can find more info on the Optically Clear Adhesive OCA Film Sheet at this link http://www.replacebase.co.uk/samsung-gal...

The phone boots up fine. The screen is crystal clear however the screen is not responsive to touch.

Any ideas why this might be ?

Jason McCutcheon - Reply

I found that a small of Goof Off on a cloth worked great for removing the glue.

Gerald Maurer - Reply

Put pieces of the sticker tape along the inner frame of the phone.
  • Put pieces of the sticker tape along the inner frame of the phone.

  • Clean up the digitizer with lint free wipes or a clean microfiber towel. I used some lens cleaner to leave it spotless and smudge free.

hi, i must use LOCA or OCA? i have watched lots of video about this but most of them didnt use LOCA and OCA. Is it problem if i dont use OCA? thx for answer.

Hakan Guzel - Reply

Take out the plastic from the new glass, make sure you dont touch the inner side of the screen.
  • Take out the plastic from the new glass, make sure you dont touch the inner side of the screen.

  • There are thin protective plastic layers on both sides of the glass. Peel them out before placing the glass on your phone.

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Check the glass against the light to make sure it is streak free before applying. If packaging left noticeable marks clean with glass cleaner and let dry before applying
  • Check the glass against the light to make sure it is streak free before applying. If packaging left noticeable marks clean with glass cleaner and let dry before applying

  • Peel off the paper from the sticker tape and put on the new glass. Press on the edges to secure adhesion.

Is it not necessary to use glue for these repairs? I did a S4 and it seems as if the touch isn't working properly.

John Maynard - Reply

I am also having this kind of problem. I've been following guides to a T and it always seems there is something I am not doing right. I did a good glass swap on a s4 and the touch isn't very responsive. It works for the most part, but instead of being able to press and hold apps in order to move them around, it just opens them.

I began thinking I needed to apply new adhesive to the body of the glass (where your finger would touch) and it looks so incredibly awful I'm to embarrassed to even list it for sale. Works perfectly, but looks terrible.

What am I doing wrong!!??

jeremiahcrosby87 -

My S3 the glass is broken but it works perfect i want to replaced it but i don't know where to get the original glass please help

Anna - Reply

I've replaced the glass just fine. Now I find that the touchscreen will go out from time-to-time. The home button works fine but the screen is unresponsive until I restart the phone and then it works fine. Any clues? Has anyone else found this a problem?

Paul - Reply

Yep, have had this problem with both phones I replace the glass on, one of them mine. I often have to reboot to get the screen working again. I once realized that it seems to happen when the glass actually touches the digitizer, as there is a thin layer of air in between. Not really sure the reason, but sure if annoying.

Norman Shafto -

Is there any way to do it if you don't have a heat gun? My brother cracked his screen pretty bad! It still works but was trying to find out if he can replace it himself. Thanks

Cynthia Campbell - Reply

In a pinch you can use a hair dryer. It just takes a really long time. Watch the temperature and DO NOT GO OVER 180 F. You'll need to periodically re-sweep the dryer on the glass to keep it warm as you pry off the glass from the LOCA glue.

Jon Bosche -

Worth mentioning but I have found that LOCA is hard to get in some locations. A possible substitute at own risk is to use uv nail polish filler and do this under a safe light ie red so you don't let the varnish begin to set. Note that using LOCA where it wasn't before is bad and vice versa.

Andre - Reply

Remove the ten 4.0 mm Phillips #0 screws securing the midframe to the front panel assembly.
  • Remove the ten 4.0 mm Phillips #0 screws securing the midframe to the front panel assembly.

What would you use to remove the screws

Curt the heneke - Reply

I used both P#000 and J#00 precision bits to good effect. I tend to prefer the Japanese Standard bits in place of Philips, as the JIS bits seem not to cam out and strip screws as easily.

E West -

Grasp the left side of the plastic midframe with your thumb and forefinger and lift it away from the phone. The midframe lightly snaps in place, and can be removed with very little force.
  • Grasp the left side of the plastic midframe with your thumb and forefinger and lift it away from the phone.

  • The midframe lightly snaps in place, and can be removed with very little force.

There's another piece of the frame that needs to be taken out, but it doens't come out as nicely... unless I did something wrong. It's the part that covers the speaker. I couldn't find a nice way of taking it out.

David - Reply

I had to use a guitar-pick to pry that section off of the frame. Start at the front-facing camera edge and run the pick underneath the plastic cover. The catches should release.

Takashi Alekseev - Reply

I used a pointed prying too to get it started, then the flat one. It took some fiddling but finally came off nicely.

Nick B - Reply

READ ME!

For a guide that takes you step by step on how to remove the SIM and microSD, I'm surprised they didn't mention the top part of this midframe (still attached, in the pictures). This top part of the midframe also needs to be removed before you can take out the motherboard.

You need to disconnect a ribbon not listed in these directions first, then pry that midframe up with the help of a guitar pick. This ribbon is located by the back-camera, next to the digitizer ribbon. This ribbon is connected to the midframe so it is essential you disconnect this before lifting the frame up.

The frame is really snapped in there so don't be afraid to use a little force - for reference, you will use more force to pull this frame off than you did to pull off the back-cover of the phone. Once this piece is off, your phone should look like the picture in step 14.

Jess - Reply

Use the spudger to gently pry the display data cable from the motherboard. Use the spudger to gently pry the display data cable from the motherboard. Use the spudger to gently pry the display data cable from the motherboard.
  • Use the spudger to gently pry the display data cable from the motherboard.

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Using the marvellous iOpener start to loosen the adhesive holding the display to the case.
  • Using the marvellous iOpener start to loosen the adhesive holding the display to the case.

  • This will take time and will require many reheats

    • Ensure you wait 2 mins before reheating the iOpener

  • Start at the top of the screen and work your way down

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Use one of the picks to lift the display in one of the corners Work the pick along the top lifting the display from the case
  • Use one of the picks to lift the display in one of the corners

  • Work the pick along the top lifting the display from the case

  • Slide the plastic card into the top to provide some leverage

    • This will also stop the display from sticking back down to the case while you work down the display

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As you work you will want to reheat the iOpener and put it back on the display to melt the adhesive further down the screen
  • As you work you will want to reheat the iOpener and put it back on the display to melt the adhesive further down the screen

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Keep working down the phone Inserting the picks into the sides to help lift the display as you slide the card down towards the bottom
  • Keep working down the phone

  • Inserting the picks into the sides to help lift the display as you slide the card down towards the bottom

  • If you remove the card and picks and can see the same view as in the second picture then you have the correct separation of parts

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The two touch buttons need to be separated from the case This should already be the case but incase you stuck them down earlier you should carefully pry them so they are loose
  • The two touch buttons need to be separated from the case

  • This should already be the case but incase you stuck them down earlier you should carefully pry them so they are loose

    • Be very careful not to damage the cable or buttons

When we removing glass very difficult.How to do?

kosoehan - Reply

Once you reach the bottom you will want to be careful and remove the bottom left corner before lifting up the right
  • Once you reach the bottom you will want to be careful and remove the bottom left corner before lifting up the right

  • This is due to the connection cable being on the right which passes through the case

  • Use the pick to help pry the cabling away from the case without pulling too hard

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Once all the adhesive is separated lift the display to the right Careful of the cable passing through the case Separate the display from the case pulling the cable through the case
  • Once all the adhesive is separated lift the display to the right

    • Careful of the cable passing through the case

  • Separate the display from the case pulling the cable through the case

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Comparing a new display (in the centre) against the old one (on right) and the case (on left)
  • Comparing a new display (in the centre) against the old one (on right) and the case (on left)

  • Note this replacement does NOT have the touch screen buttons

  • If yours does then skip the next step

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Using a spudger very carefully lift the black lock on the connector Gently pull the cable out of the connector
  • Using a spudger very carefully lift the black lock on the connector

  • Gently pull the cable out of the connector

  • Using a pick very carefully separate the touchscreen cable from the display

  • The chip on the cable at that point is glued to the display but can be easily separated by sliding a pick under it

  • If it is not separating with ease place the iOpener on top this should loosen the adhesive.

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The old/broken display can now be disposed of
  • The old/broken display can now be disposed of

  • Keep the case

  • Keep the touchscreen buttons

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Finally to tidy up the case The adhesive strip (double sided tape) used to attach the old display probably did not come off with the display Use the iOpener to loosen the adhesive
  • Finally to tidy up the case

  • The adhesive strip (double sided tape) used to attach the old display probably did not come off with the display

  • Use the iOpener to loosen the adhesive

  • Use the picks to lift up the edges and then peel the strip off the case

  • This may again take several attempts with heating and picking, be patient, the slower you go the larger the strip you should be able to lift which should make it easier to take the whole thing off in one (or 3) goes

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Before putting the phone back together apply double sided tape to the case to hold the glass to the case
  • Before putting the phone back together apply double sided tape to the case to hold the glass to the case

  • The LCD display should have some serious adhesive already on it. Make sure you remove the protective plastic to reveal it

  • if you're lucky your replacement screen may have custom 3M tape sections

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  • To reassemble

    • Attach the touchscreen buttons to the new screen (Step 14)

    • Slide the cable through the case

    • Stick the display down to the case (apply pressure to make sure its stuck, but not too much you don't want to break the new screen)

    • Follow steps 1 - 5 in reverse to reassemble from the back

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Ollie Freeman

Member since: 05/19/2013

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