iPad Mini CDMA Battery Replacement

Replace the Battery in your iPad Mini CDMA.

Use this guide to replace the battery.

Edit Step 1 iOpener Heating  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

Edit Step 1 iOpener Heating  ¶ 

  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

Image 1/1: The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Edit Step 4 Front Panel  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

Edit Step 4 Front Panel  ¶ 

  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

  • Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

  • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

  • Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you may risk cracking the glass.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

  • Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Reheat and reapply the iOpener.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  • Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

Image 1/3: If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

  • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

Image 1/3: If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

  • If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener.

  • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

Image 1/3:

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

Image 1/3: The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

  • The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

Image 1/3:

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

  • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

  • Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

Image 1/3:

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

  • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.

  • Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

Image 1/3:

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

Image 1/3:

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every two minutes.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.

    • Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every two minutes.

  • Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

  • Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

  • There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:

    • Antennas

    • Home button cavity

    • Digitizer cable

  • The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

Image 1/3: With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

  • With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

    • Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

    • If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

  • Leave the pick in place before moving on.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button.

  • Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable.

  • Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.

  • Again, be sure to only slide the pick toward the center of the iPad when it is fully inserted; otherwise you may damage the antenna beneath the glass.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

Image 1/2: At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.

  • At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.

  • If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, stop twisting. Leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas, and run a pick through the sticking point one more time.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it.

  • Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.

  • Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.

Edit Step 31 LCD Assembly  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Use tweezers to peel up and remove the rectangular piece of foam tape covering the top right LCD screw.

Edit Step 31 LCD Assembly  ¶ 

  • Small pieces of foam tape cover the top and bottom right-hand screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

  • Use tweezers to peel up and remove the rectangular piece of foam tape covering the top right LCD screw.

  • Remove the triangular tape covering the lower right LCD screw.

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

Image 1/2: If the tape is present, use the flat end of a spudger to pry the tape up and away, exposing the LCD screw beneath.

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • The top left LCD screw may be covered by adhesive tape from the front panel.

  • If the tape is present, use the flat end of a spudger to pry the tape up and away, exposing the LCD screw beneath.

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 3.9 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

Edit Step 34  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape connecting the LCD frame to the right speaker.

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Use a pair of thin tweezers to pull up the top of the foam tape surrounding the LCD.

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • A thin strip of foam tape on the LCD frame is covering a piece of tape connecting the LCD to the panel beneath it. To proceed, you'll have to break and peel up some of the foam tape to expose the tape hidden beneath.

  • Use a pair of thin tweezers to pull up the top of the foam tape surrounding the LCD.

    • Be careful not to touch the LCD with the tweezers, as you may damage the display.

  • Use the tweezers to peel the foam tape up to expose the top of the LCD.

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Slide the spudger along the space between the LCD frame and tape, separating the tape from the LCD frame.

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

  • Insert the tip of a spudger between the LCD frame and the tape on the top of the LCD.

  • Slide the spudger along the space between the LCD frame and tape, separating the tape from the LCD frame.

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Insert a guitar pick into the gap between the LCD and rear case, near the top of the left side of the LCD.

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • The LCD is glued to the metal LCD shield plate behind it along the top, left, and right edges. In order to safely loosen this adhesive, you'll be using a guitar pick to shift the LCD a couple of millimeters left and right several times.

  • Insert a guitar pick into the gap between the LCD and rear case, near the top of the left side of the LCD.

  • Bend the pick slightly away from the iPad, just enough to spread the gap between the LCD and rear case.

Edit Step 38  ¶ 

Image 1/3:

Edit Step 38  ¶ 

  • Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case.

Edit Step 39  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Repeat this and the previous step a few times, until the LCD is easily moved left and right.

Edit Step 39  ¶ 

  • Now switch to the right side of the LCD, and pry with the guitar pick in several places along the side to shift the LCD back to the left.

  • Repeat this and the previous step a few times, until the LCD is easily moved left and right.

Edit Step 40  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and the metal backing plate.

Edit Step 40  ¶ 

  • In the next few steps, you'll be sliding a spudger between the LCD and the metal backing plate to fully separate the LCD from the adhesive beneath.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and the metal backing plate.

    • Be sure to get the spudger between the LCD frame and backing plate, and not beneath the plate. Prying up on the plate will damage it, because it is screwed down to the rear case beneath the LCD.

Edit Step 41  ¶ 

Image 1/3: The goal is to separate the adhesive, not to pry the LCD up, so keep the pointed tip of the spudger as low as possible to prevent bending the LCD.

Edit Step 41  ¶ 

  • Starting at the top right of the device, slide the spudger in between the LCD frame and metal backing plate, which will separate the adhesive as you push.

    • The goal is to separate the adhesive, not to pry the LCD up, so keep the pointed tip of the spudger as low as possible to prevent bending the LCD.

  • If inserting the spudger causes the corner of the LCD to bend up, repeat the steps with the guitar pick to further loosen the adhesive.

Edit Step 42  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD frame and metal backing plate and gently push the spudger in across the top of the device, separating adhesive.

Edit Step 42  ¶ 

  • Repeat the previous procedure along the top of the LCD.

  • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD frame and metal backing plate and gently push the spudger in across the top of the device, separating adhesive.

Edit Step 43  ¶ 

Image 1/3: At this point the LCD should be loosened from the adhesive holding it. If it is not, re-insert the spudger on the right side or top to fully free the LCD.

Edit Step 43  ¶ 

  • Continue with the left side of the LCD: insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD and shield plate and insert the spudger as far as it will go.

  • At this point the LCD should be loosened from the adhesive holding it. If it is not, re-insert the spudger on the right side or top to fully free the LCD.

Edit Step 44  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 44  ¶ 

  • Lift the LCD up a couple inches from the rear case to ensure it's free from the adhesive.

Edit Step 45  ¶ 

Image 1/2: While holding the LCD with one hand, Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between this tape and the left speaker.

Edit Step 45  ¶ 

  • Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers.

  • While holding the LCD with one hand, Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between this tape and the left speaker.

  • Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers while rotating the spudger outward to separate the tape from the speaker.

Edit Step 46  ¶ 

Image 1/2: While pulling the LCD away from the speakers, rotate the spudger outward, widening the gap and releasing the tape from the speaker.

Edit Step 46  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of the spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the LCD tape.

  • While pulling the LCD away from the speakers, rotate the spudger outward, widening the gap and releasing the tape from the speaker.

Edit Step 47  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Do not attempt to remove the LCD from the iPad, as it is still connected by its data cable.

Edit Step 47  ¶ 

  • Flip the LCD over and rest it on top of the front panel glass.

  • Do not attempt to remove the LCD from the iPad, as it is still connected by its data cable.

Edit Step 48 LCD Shield Plate  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00

Edit Step 48 LCD Shield Plate  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad:

    • Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00

    • Thirteen 1.7 mm Phillips #00

    • One additional 1.7 mm Phillips #00 on some devices.

Edit Step 49  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Pry up on the spudger to free the plate from the sides of the rear case.

Edit Step 49  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the center of the LCD shield plate from the bottom end of the iPad.

  • Pry up on the spudger to free the plate from the sides of the rear case.

Edit Step 50  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 50  ¶ 

  • Remove the LCD shield plate from the iPad.

Edit Step 51 Battery Connector  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Be sure to not substitute these three screws with any other screws, specifically the screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad. Any slightly longer screws may strip the screw holes and result in irreparable damage to the logic board.

Edit Step 51 Battery Connector  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the connector shield to the logic board.

  • Be sure to not substitute these three screws with any other screws, specifically the screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad. Any slightly longer screws may strip the screw holes and result in irreparable damage to the logic board.

Edit Step 52  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 52  ¶ 

  • Use a pair of tweezers to grasp and remove the connector shield from the iPad.

Edit Step 53  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Edit Step 53  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Edit Step 54 LCD  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.

Edit Step 54 LCD  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the LCD connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.

Edit Step 55  ¶ 

Image 1/3: While holding the LCD with one hand, insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD and tape on the iPad's right side.

Edit Step 55  ¶ 

  • The LCD is still connected to the rest of the iPad by two wide strips of adhesive tape that run up from the inside of the rear case to the front bottom LCD frame.

  • While holding the LCD with one hand, insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD and tape on the iPad's right side.

  • Slide the spudger outward, separating the tape, while gently lifting up on the LCD to pull it away from the tape.

  • It may help to twist the spudger, to spread the gap the rest of the way and separate the LCD from the tape.

Edit Step 56  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and tape, and slide outward while gently lifting up on the LCD.

Edit Step 56  ¶ 

  • While still holding the LCD up with one hand, move on to the iPad's left side and repeat the previous step's procedure to separate the second piece of tape.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and tape, and slide outward while gently lifting up on the LCD.

Edit Step 57  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 57  ¶ 

  • Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini.

Edit Step 58 Front Panel Assembly  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Be very careful to pry evenly on the connector, and not on the socket at all. The socket and connector are very delicate and if you damage either, your digitizer won't work.

Edit Step 58 Front Panel Assembly  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the digitizer connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to pry evenly on the connector, and not on the socket at all. The socket and connector are very delicate and if you damage either, your digitizer won't work.

Edit Step 59  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 59  ¶ 

  • Gently pry the digitizer cable board up from the rear case.

Edit Step 60  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 60  ¶ 

  • Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad.

Edit Step 61 Battery  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than one minute.

Edit Step 61 Battery  ¶ 

  • Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for one minute.

    • Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than one minute.

  • Place the heated iOpener on the back of the iPad, along the center. Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive.

  • Move the iOpener to the right of the back of the iPad (the side opposite the rear-facing camera), and let the iOpener sit for another 90 seconds.

    • If the iOpener cools significantly between sittings, reheat it for another minute.

Edit Step 62  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Flip the iPad back over and insert a plastic card between the top left battery and the rear case.

Edit Step 62  ¶ 

  • Throughout the following procedure, you'll be sliding thin plastic cards between the battery and rear case of the iPad, to separate the adhesive securing the battery in place. Be careful to keep the cards as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.

  • Flip the iPad back over and insert a plastic card between the top left battery and the rear case.

  • If you encounter significant resistance, re-heat the iOpener and repeat the previous step to give the adhesive more time to soften.

Edit Step 63  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 63  ¶ 

  • Press the card in further, breaking as much of the adhesive holding in the battery as you can.

Edit Step 64  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 64  ¶ 

  • Remove the plastic card and reinsert it underneath the top right corner of the battery.

Edit Step 65  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Leave this card in place to prevent the adhesive from resetting.

Edit Step 65  ¶ 

  • Again, press the card in further, to break more of the adhesive behind the battery.

  • Leave this card in place to prevent the adhesive from resetting.

Edit Step 66  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 66  ¶ 

  • Insert a second plastic card beneath the bottom left corner of the battery.

Edit Step 67  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 67  ¶ 

  • Slowly push the card in further, breaking more of the adhesive between the battery and the rear case.

Edit Step 68  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 68  ¶ 

  • Remove the card and reinsert it, beneath the bottom right corner of the battery.

Edit Step 69  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 69  ¶ 

  • Push the card further underneath the battery.

Edit Step 70  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Peel slowly and try to keep the battery as straight as possible.

Edit Step 70  ¶ 

  • Grasp both cards and slowly pull the right side of the battery up about two inches from the rear case.

  • Peel slowly and try to keep the battery as straight as possible.

Edit Step 71  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 71  ¶ 

  • While lifting the right side of the battery up with one hand, use a plastic card to cut any adhesive still holding the battery down to the rear case.

Edit Step 72  ¶ 

Image 1/3:

Edit Step 72  ¶ 

  • Lift and remove the battery from the iPad.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Now that you've finished, share your repair story with others.

Write a story

52 Comments

Add a comment

I'm sorry, but I started laughing uncontrollably at this point! It's like something out of a Conan or Fallon sketch for the all but non sequitur of microwave use, but it's clearly what needs to be done for the glue. I came from a 2007 MBP, and personally replaced the battery multiple times (one step). I was curious about how it was done with my new 2014 model. 32 steps might as well be a punch line...

JeffH - Reply

Never get a job in IT support... I kid you not, earlier I had to instruct someone on how to plug the power jack into their laptop.....

daveoline -

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

A hairdryer works well - hot to the touch is enough to soften the glue to allow it to come off.

Gavin -

They do not use glue to attach the glass. It is very strong double sided 3M tape.

Odus182 -

If I can't find the new screen how would I fix it. Where can I find the brand new screen.

Crissel Largo - Reply

There are screen replacements on eBay but it appears that you can only buy the digitizer glass. Is it difficult to separate the glass from the LCD screen? Some apple products are rather difficult while others already come separate.

loveofthegame441 - Reply

No, super easy, the LCD and glass are actually not adhered to each other, the glass sits in the moulding about 1 or 2 cm above the LCD.

Brice -

Hi. I need the same. Did you solve it? I find the spare parts: the external crystal and the glue (adhesive stick) but I have some doubts: How separate brocken cristal from usable lcd and how Stick the new crystal with lcd.

domenico sicignano -

for the screen, there's a place in Huntsville Alabama called LCDcycle. they have grade a parts

livinginthegump - Reply

Could some one help me please im changing the wifi antenna on my ipad air an don't knoew how to activate the glue on the growding strip. I would think it heat. any ideas thank you.

danielalanreed - Reply

I don't own a microwave... Is there an alternative way you can recommend heating up the iOpener?

margo - Reply

Yes, buy a microwave. They cost about the same as an iOpener!!

seaniepie -

I use a heat gun and work fine for me.

Danilo -

My rear glass is broken what will be the price of thr rear glass..???can i order it from ifixit suggest me some thing.....!!!!i m from india....help me out plz...!!!

Abhishek Dutta - Reply

Any rear glass for any phone is cheap. They generally cost around $5-$20 to get the part depending on which phone. For this one it doesn't cost much at all.

Ben -

Always isolate the battery before removing the LCD, and don't reconnect the battery till the LCD is back in place.

You can screw up a few different things by inadvertently turning on a device while the LCD is disconnected.

Also, skip the neck warmer/microwave, get a hot plate or hair drier/heat gun and be careful. (I use a duel sensor digital temp hot plate)

David - Reply

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

This repair isn't possible as far as I know. I have done three glass only repairs now with the same results. After professionally separating the glass and LCD, then re-attaching the AMOLED screen to the NEW digitizer/glass assembly with OCA tape the touch would no longer work... strange since I tried a new digitizer on each Apple Watch I was repairing. I started looking a little closer to the broken digitizer and I removed the silver chip cover to reveal the touch/digitizer controller IC. This extremely small BGA chip is epoxied directly to the flex cable, so removing the chip is a one time thing as you can't remove epoxy chemically after it cures. Each touch/digitizer controller IC is INDIVIDUALLY MARKED with a number, for example #1510. I believe each touch IC is LINKED to each Apple Watch, but it is possible that each IC is linked only to the LCD screen. I can not confirm that is the case because I do not have access to a full LCD/digi/glass to try replacing on a broken apple watch.

Don - Reply

I have same problem as Don...touch doesn't work after changing

romnaum -

Any update about the touch not working after replacing the screen?

Matt Jones -

The repair is possible but it is a hard one. I just finished it (again). Use ALOT of heat to remove the glass. Take your time not to break the LCD. Separate all the parts before the removing the battery. The repair is hard, not impossible.

mattost -

Hi. Do you suggest to change both part to avoid that? I mean, I have only the external part broke and I think to buy only that, but after reading your comment, I realize that maybe is better to change both of screen+LCD at once. It is right?

domenico sicignano -

How can you reprogram the watch to accept a new digitizer? Is there a way?

DeJaNeal Brown -

Can anyone verify that the part sold on ifixits website will work? I bought a digitizer/glass only from eBay and no touch response from it. Other people here are claiming the IC chip is programmed to either the watch CPU or the amoled itself.

Here is the part on ifixits website:

Apple Watch (42 mm) Front Glass Digitizer

greg - Reply

Dont buy it from ifixit. Nothing wrong with ifixit though. The glass and LCD is infused together. You will not be able to separate the broken glass from the LCD. Do whatever, heat, more heat, dance or any other stunt it doesnt come off. Even if it comes off i don't think just by putting in another digitizer it will start working as it will not be infused with LCD. so net net. the video is good and stylish but it doesnt work.

Suresh Iyer -

I already separated it successfully and have all the tools to reassemble professionally including OCA and a autoclave.

greg -

In case of broken glass, here are some hints:

- I prefer 3M "3350" tape; a metalized polypropylene tape with an acrylic adhesive. It's a very thin, silvery HVAC tape, not your standard duct tape.

- Test your tape to make sure it sticks really well to the glass.

- Use isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel to remove fingerprints and other dirt to help the tape stick to the screen.

- Use the widest tape you can find, and apply it evenly, without trapping bubbles, without crinkles: This greatly improves your chance of success with the suction cup later.

- Cut tape pieces long enough and go over the (rounded) edge; afterwards carefully run a scalpel alongside the edge (between bezel and glass) to trim off any excess.

- Don't overlap edges of the tape: butt-join them instead.

- If needed: repeat in other direction.

- If needed: Cut square piece of tape (size of suction cup) and place it where you want to lift the glass, so that the suction cup doesn't cover any butt-joins.

Good luck, you brave person!

volty - Reply

I worked at it for over 2 hours before deciding to microwave the opener for 45 seconds at a time. That seemed to do the trick.

jaromhyde - Reply

This step is totally pointless if you have a shattered screen. The suction cup is rendered useless. Any tips on what to do if you can't get any suction due to a shattered screen?

robloomis - Reply

just pick out the glass shards if it is cracked that bad you are better off scrapping the digitizer

Ethan Chow -

for shattered screens I cover the screen with tape. I find packing tape works best for me.

George - Reply

In my case the 4 screws are not the same. One is 4mm, and 3 of 3.5mm, or better 2 x 3.5mm and one 3.45mm. I put the longest one at the left edge at left of the LCD flat cable.

mitja

Mitja Jankovic - Reply

Hi Mitja. I just checked the measurements with an electronic digital caliper. I got 3.9 mm for all four screws. Are you sure it was the same model? Thanks.

Walter Galan -

The top left screw is longer than the other 3 - iPad mini Retina Wi-Fi.

sandro - Reply

At the iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are only 7 screws.

sandro - Reply

On my iPad Mini (Gen 1 WiFi; A1432), these are not #00 screws, but #000 screws. They're much tinier than the first four screws that held the LCD tabs in place. The #00 driver sorta works, but requires a lot of force to get traction. The #000 driver works like a charm, though.

volty - Reply

Note: These three screws are smaller than the rest of the screws holding the larger LCD shield although they look similar. If you substitute the larger screws, you will pop a screw bracket which can damage the board on both the mini original and mini 2 retina. I just wrote a blog post about how this happens: http://mendonipadrehab.com/entries/gener...

jessabethany - Reply

Hi jessabethany. Thank you for the warning. I read your blog post and found it to be very informative. Thanks for adding the warning to the step. It will most definitely help others avoid any damage to the logic board. Thanks!

Walter Galan -

Be careful: At iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are thw short and one longer screw! Don't mix them!

sandro - Reply

Make sure you disconnect the battery. If not and ipad is still on you can have problems with the LCD backlight. To fix that problem you have to solder

Mattis - Reply

I may be experiencing the backlight problem you mentioned. What connection needs to be soldered?

Grillwrecka -

Have an issue - heard that if you don't disconnect the battery a fuse is blown. I need help to fix the blown fuse.

Andrew Kivell -

There is an extensive thread in Answers about iPad mini backlight problems.Screen stays black after digitizer replacement

jessabethany -

After unplugging the battery place a guitar pick in-between the two connections.

While continuing to work on the iPad you may inadvertently cause the two connections to touch.

Michael Vovaris - Reply

Putting the iPad back together: While plugging the LCD Connector back in, take your time finding the socket on the logic board. Do no use pressure until you are certain it is seated properly. Trust me, if you take your time you will know its seated correctly.

Michael Vovaris - Reply

Removing this tape and such to take the LCD off completely is unneccessary when replacing just the glass and digitizer, the digitizer cable is easily removed without further work to the LCD

Nick Hughes - Reply

Be careful not to dislodge any of the surface mount components next to the connectors. This is sometimes a reason for the digitiser not working.

Simon - Reply

== After step 55 ==

Before installing your new digitizer (front panel), make sure to put the necessary bends on the new digitizer's ribbon cable. Look at the old panel that you've removed to see the bends that you'll need to make. Without doing this, once you are at the last step of laying down the digitizer, the cable may bunch-up in between the glass and the iPad's aluminum frame. Thus, it will not allow that corner to sit flush and glue down. If you didn't make the bends, you can use the tweezers at that point to situate the cable. It is just easier to do this beforehand. Do not make the bends as if you were folding paper. You run the risk of damaging the ribbon by doing so. You just want enough pressure to make the cable retain a bend. Again, look at and copy the cable from your old panel.

Good Luck!!!!

Mike - Reply

If your panel is shattered, you may want to have some canned air to get rid of all those pesky little glass pieces that fly everywhere. I used a Giottos air blaster because that is all I had at my disposal.

Mike -

Where can I get a battery?

Mike Munn - Reply

Hi as a novice i found this page absolutely BRILLIANT...

there are so many tiny screws and components that i would of buggered something for sure if i didnt have your instructions

can you advise when you reinstall everything does the tapes have to go back on ( most are not sticky now. some seem to have a metallic surface ????

if so what is the name of the tapes and can i get in New Zealand?

or do you sell??

thanks again

BRILLIANT.

Richard New Zealand

Richard Sutton - Reply