Potentially Dangerous
Injury may result if this procedure is not followed properly. Use caution and follow all warnings.


This simple guide will point you to the faulty relay, a 5$ part, that will fix your oven.

Be careful and always unplug the oven from the wall outlet when working on it.

I didn't plan on making this guide prior to fixing the oven so don't hesitate to ask questions if needed.

This may apply to other ovens as well.

  1. This won't show you how to diagnose or open the back of your oven, you need enough skill to get here.
    • This won't show you how to diagnose or open the back of your oven, you need enough skill to get here.

    • The relay you need to replace is the big black one, circled in yellow, the T9AV5L12-12.

    • Disconnect all the cables from this assembly, they are all locking connectors so take your time.

    • You can remove the whole clock assembly by unscrewing the 4 screws marked in green.

    • Then remove the PWR board by removing the clips circled in red. Be careful, you have to pull out "locking" clips with pliers before you can press in the other locking clips. Once you see them you'll figure it out quickly.

    • Now desolder your old relay and solder the new one in. For my problem there was even a melted solder joint on one contact on the relay.

    • Reassemble and test your oven.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

2 other people completed this guide.


Member since: 01/20/2016

176 Reputation

1 Guide authored


Do they have fuses?


OK so lets say that I am new to replacing a relay on a board. I get the concept but have never done it.

Is this something that can be done somewhat easily? or do i risk damaging the rest of the board?

I would appreciate if you have time to respond.

Also what was your problem with the stove initially?

BJ Magone - Reply

My oven was not heating up, only the convection element worked (it's on 120VAC).

No 240VAC was present at either the bake or broil element. All elements tested good at 14-25 ohms.

It’s easy to replace the relay, just some good soldering work and nothing else can be damaged. Also the relay solder points are large, you wouldn’t need any magnifying equipement that you would need for smaller work.

patricelaroche - Reply

Patrice, thanks very much for your article. I just fixed my oven control board, and I’d like to add a couple of points for other people who find this page.

(1) On my stove only two of the white connectors were locking. The others just needed wiggling out.

(2) The spade lug feeding L1 was a major pain to get off. The socket is of the locking kind, and in the end I had to open up the top halves of the socket to pull the supply wire away from the board. That was the hardest part of the job (for me today).

(3) I also had one melted joint. I replaced the relay (since I had it now anyway) but I tested the old relay after taking it out and it checks out OK.

I suspect had I just re-soldered the melted connection it would have been fine. (The melted connection is the common 220V leg of the relay, and given how small the 220V pins are, I am guessing that there is too much current through too small a pin and the solder just melts away eventually. A bad part choice by the control board designer, IMHO.)

Jim - Reply

will this solve a run away oven??????

Colton J Loberg - Reply

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