Introduction

Replacing the metal bottom case.

Image 1/1: Lift the battery out of the computer.
  • Use a coin to turn the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

  • Lift the battery out of the computer.

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Image 1/1: Slide the memory door away from the memory compartment.
  • Remove the four Phillips screws from the memory door.

  • Slide the memory door away from the memory compartment.

I recommend that you have several (ie 10-12) little cups nearby with a pen and some small scraps of paper to write on. As you remove screws, step by step, place that step's screws into one cup and label it "Step #X". That way, when you're putting everything back together, you won't have to guess as to which screws were for which step. I did this, on a recommendation of a friend who did this very same repair, and it made the reassembly even easier.

beil - Reply

Better still is to print out these instructions. Then as you remove screws, scotch tape them to the instruction sheet right on the place where it says to remove them. The tape keeps them from getting lost and the order can't be screwed up.

Lavatop - Reply

These were such great directions!! It was no harder than baking a cake. I didn't have a spudger, but a thin plastic chopstick worked fine. I took lavatop's tip to print out directions and tape the screws in order. It was great advice. Thanks IFixit!

Karen Ann - Reply

I found that a plastic ice cube tray works best in these situations.

kostas16673 - Reply

Image 1/1: Two 3 mm Phillips in the battery compartment, on either side of the battery contacts.
  • Remove the following 8 screws:

    • Two 3 mm Phillips in the battery compartment, on either side of the battery contacts.

    • Two 12 mm Phillips on either side of the memory compartment.

    • Four 16 mm Phillips along the hinge.

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Image 1/1: Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws.
  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees clockwise, so that the power receptacle faces you.

  • Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws.

  • When replacing these screws, you must place each screw in the correct order. Begin by installing the screw closest to the display hinge, and go out from there.

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Image 1/1: Remove the bottom 5 mm Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two total).
  • Turn the computer 90 degrees clockwise so that the hinge faces you.

  • Remove the bottom 5 mm Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two total).

By "bottom", it means the top ones (if the computer were right-side-up), i.e. the ones closer to the lid.

colleenthompson - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws.
  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees clockwise, so that the ports face you.

  • Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws.

  • When replacing these screws, you must place each screw in the correct order. Begin by installing the screw closest to the display hinge, and go out from there.

Don't be hasty! I've seen 2 laptops with a forlorn screw trapped in a video port screwhole, from where it's very difficult, if not impracticable, to remove it.

colleenthompson - Reply

Quote from colleenthompson:

Don't be hasty! I've seen 2 laptops with a forlorn screw trapped in a video port screwhole, from where it's very difficult, if not impracticable, to remove it.

I've done that. Was not fun extracting the screw. I had to use a a large speaker magnet to get it out.

Dan - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the two 1.5 mm hex screws in either corner, next to the display (a T6 Torx driver will work, but repeated use will strip the screws).
  • Turn the computer over and open the display.

  • Remove the two 1.5 mm hex screws in either corner, next to the display (a T6 Torx driver will work, but repeated use will strip the screws).

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Image 1/1: Lift the back of the case up and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.
  • Grasp the back corners of the upper case and pull up. Do not pull the upper case off yet; you still need to disconnect the keyboard and trackpad cable.

  • Lift the back of the case up and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.

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Image 1/1:
  • Rotate the upper case up and toward the screen, so that the upper case rests against it.

By "rotate" they mean tilt... You tilt the upper case (which contains the keyboard" up so that it rests against the screen. If you happen to have a helper nearby, get them to gently hold the upper case, when it's tilted up, in place so that you can do step 10.

beil - Reply

For this stage I found Step 9 and Step 10 in the guide for Hard Drive replacement were helpful in expanding on removal of top cover. See link here : PowerBook G4 Aluminum 15" 1-1.5 GHz Hard Drive Replacement

Alastair Gill - Reply

Image 1/1: Disconnect the trackpad ribbon from the logic board.
  • Remove the orange tape securing the trackpad ribbon to the logic board.

  • Disconnect the trackpad ribbon from the logic board.

  • Remove the upper case from the computer.

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Image 1/1: Remove the small 3 mm black Phillips screw from the bottom of the board.
    • Remove the 9.5 mm silver Phillips screw from the top of the right ambient light sensor board.

    • Remove the small 3 mm black Phillips screw from the bottom of the board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Lift the right ambient light sensor board from the computer.

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Image 1/1: Lift the speaker away from the logic board and place it aside
  • Remove the two black Phillips screws from the right speaker.

  • Lift the speaker away from the logic board and place it aside

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Image 1/1: Slide the modem cable from its connector.
  • Use your fingernail to flip up the black plastic flap locking the modem cable in place.

  • Slide the modem cable from its connector.

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Image 1/1: When re-installing the board, make sure the two small connectors at the right hand side are above the board before inserting the screws.
  • Disconnect the 13 indicated cables, removing tape as necessary.

  • When re-installing the board, make sure the two small connectors at the right hand side are above the board before inserting the screws.

Is it possible for the various connectors to be labeled/identified? I'm trying to test a lower half but I don't know what exactly is missing, trying to figure it out by what's not plugged in.

djfriar - Reply

Image 1/1: Three 6.5 mm in the upper left corner.
  • Remove the following 8 Phillips screws from the logic board:

    • Three 6.5 mm in the upper left corner.

    • Five 4.5 mm around the edges.

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Image 1/1: Use a spudger to gently (very gently) pry up the left side of the logic board.
  • Two cables still connect to the logic board and must be removed before pulling the board entirely out of the computer.

  • Use a spudger to gently (very gently) pry up the left side of the logic board.

  • If the logic board does not immediately come free, it may be necessary to soften the thermal paste between the logic board and heat sink. You can soften the thermal compound using a hairdryer. Move the hairdryer back and forth between the two fans about one inch above the logic board for one minute. At this point, the logic board should now come free easily.

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Image 1/1:
  • Disconnect the DC-In connector from the left side of the logic board.

It may be easier to disconnect the DC-in connector from the DC-Sound board end of the connector rather than from the logic board side of the connector

Charles Fuller - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Disconnect the battery cable from the front, left corner of the logic board.

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Image 1/1: Once the logic board clears the ports, slide it out to the left.
  • Grasp the logic board at the left edge with one hand and at the thinnest section with the other hand. Lift the left edge of the board up to approximately a 30 degree angle (if you don't have your protractor handy, just lift until the DVI port clears the right hinge).

  • Once the logic board clears the ports, slide it out to the left.

Great guide! Fantastic idea in the comments to print the instructions and then tape the screws by the step as you go. I found that it was easier to remove the screen and hinges before taking out the logic board. It made it much easier to remove and replace the right side of the logic board.

wemerson - Reply

Image 1/1: To properly reassemble your PowerBook, you'll have to clean off and replace the old thermal compound. Use our [guide|744|Applying Thermal Paste Guide] to prepare the processor and heat sink surfaces.
  • Important: when you reinstall a logic board, you'll need to replace the thermal paste that goes between the processor on the logic board and the heat sink. Failure to remove the old paste and apply a new layer can cause the computer to overheat and sustain damage.

  • To properly reassemble your PowerBook, you'll have to clean off and replace the old thermal compound. Use our Applying Thermal Paste Guide to prepare the processor and heat sink surfaces.

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Image 1/1: When replacing the logic board, make sure all cables are routed around and above - not under - it, and to connect the two cables that do go beneath before pushing the board into place.
  • Use a firm plastic edge to scrape the thermal material off the processor.

  • When replacing the logic board, make sure all cables are routed around and above - not under - it, and to connect the two cables that do go beneath before pushing the board into place.

  • Place the logic board back in the computer, trying not to move it around once the processor has come into contact with the newly-applied thermal paste.

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Image 1/1: Lift the left ambient light sensor board out of the computer, removing tape as necessary.
  • Remove the two 3 mm black Phillips screws from the left ambient light sensor board.

  • Lift the left ambient light sensor board out of the computer, removing tape as necessary.

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Image 1/1:
  • Deroute the Bluetooth and RJ-11 cables from around the left side of the speaker.

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Image 1/1:
  • Disconnect the speaker cable from the DC/Sound card.

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Image 1/1: Remove the 3 mm black Phillips screw from bottom left corner of the speaker assembly, to the left of the battery compartment.
  • Remove the 4 mm hex nut from below the left speaker.

  • Remove the 3 mm black Phillips screw from bottom left corner of the speaker assembly, to the left of the battery compartment.

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  • Lift the speaker assembly (including the right speaker) out of the computer.

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Image 1/1: Next the two 6.8 mm shouldered screws go on the right side of the card cage.
  • Remove the two 4.2 mm silver Phillips screws from the left corners of the PC card cage.

  • Next the two 6.8 mm shouldered screws go on the right side of the card cage.

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Image 1/1: When replacing the PC card cage, make sure you attach it to the post on the metal eject button.
  • Lift the PC card cage up and remove it from the computer.

  • When replacing the PC card cage, make sure you attach it to the post on the metal eject button.

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  • Remove the two 4.2 mm silver Phillips screws from either side of the large orange Airport ribbon.

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Image 1/1: Deroute the antenna cable from the side of the card, removing tape as necessary.
  • Lift the Airport card out of the computer and slide a spudger between the card and the antenna connector to disconnect the cable from the card.

  • Deroute the antenna cable from the side of the card, removing tape as necessary.

  • You don't need to remove the Airport card entirely. We're just trying to free up the Airport antenna cable.

Under the Airport card there's some glue

Ferex - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Using a spudger, pry up the Bluetooth board from the cavity in front of the battery compartment.

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Image 1/1:
  • Disconnect the Bluetooth antenna cable from the Bluetooth board.

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Image 1/1: Remove the remaining Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two screws total).
  • Close the display and turn the hinge side of the computer to face you.

  • Remove the remaining Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two screws total).

These are the bottom two screws when the computer is positioned as shown

Charles Fuller - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the 10 mm T8 Torx screw closer to the display on either side of the hinge (two screws total).
  • Open the display and turn the computer so the screen faces you.

  • Remove the 10 mm T8 Torx screw closer to the display on either side of the hinge (two screws total).

  • When replacing the display, make sure that the right screw pins down the ground loop from the display data cable.

Ground loop goes on T8 Torx screw nearest the display

Charles Fuller - Reply

The ground loop attaches with the T8 Torx screw nearest the display

Charles Fuller - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the longer 13 mm shouldered T8 Torx screw remaining on either hinge (two screws total).
  • Be sure to support the display with one hand while removing the final two screws.

  • Remove the longer 13 mm shouldered T8 Torx screw remaining on either hinge (two screws total).

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Image 1/1:
  • Lift the display off.

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Image 1/1: Four 4 mm silver screws.
  • Remove the following 7 Phillips screws from the heat sink:

    • Four 4 mm silver screws.

    • Two 5 mm black screws.

    • One 9 mm silver screw in the upper left corner of the left fan.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the heat sink from the case, minding the left corner, as it tends to catch in the case (the fans will come out with the heat sink).

When the heat sink is removed, notice that there are two, black plastic spacers on the upper side and two more on the lower side. These are located about 1.5" (3.5cm) inboard of the two fans, on the edge nearest the hinge. You can see the upper ones in the photo. I believe they are glued in place but then glue can break and the spacers fall out. You need to put them back in.

Charles Fuller - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Disconnect the 4-pin power cable and orange ribbon cable from the DC/Sound card.

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Image 1/1: Remove the 5 mm standoff that secures the DC/Sound card to the lower case using a nut driver or pliers.
  • Remove the T8 Torx screw from the RJ-11 board.

  • Remove the 5 mm standoff that secures the DC/Sound card to the lower case using a nut driver or pliers.

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Image 1/1: Lift the DC/Sound card out of the computer and turn it over.
  • Do not pull the DC/Sound card out entirely. You will be disconnecting the Bluetooth cable in the next step.

  • Lift the DC/Sound card out of the computer and turn it over.

  • Disconnect the Bluetooth cable from the DC/Sound card, removing tape as necessary.

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Image 1/1: The DC/Sound card should now be free.
  • Use your thumbs to slide the RJ-11 board away from the sound card in the same direction you would disconnect a cable. This is your chance to get out some aggression, as the board will most likely be very tight and requires a good deal of force to remove. Don't get carried away though - don't hold onto the power connector and don't put too much actual force on the card itself.

  • The DC/Sound card should now be free.

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Image 1/1: Remove the retaining bracket.
  • Remove the three long silver Phillips screws from the retaining bracket on the left side of the optical drive.

  • Remove the retaining bracket.

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  • Lift the hard drive up from the right side and remove it from the computer.

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Image 1/1: Disconnect the RJ-11 cable from the bottom of the modem.
  • Deroute the RJ-11 cable from along the front of the computer and lift the part out of the computer.

  • Disconnect the RJ-11 cable from the bottom of the modem.

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  • Before going on, remove the loose parts left in the computer. The Airport card and PC card eject button should both be free. Just remove these parts from the computer and set them aside.

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  • The Bluetooth board and cable should also be free, wedged in the cavity next to the battery compartment. Remove these and set them aside.

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Image 1/1: Remove a third Phillips screw near the front of the computer that pins down a ground loop.
  • Remove the two silver Phillips screws from the battery connector.

  • Remove a third Phillips screw near the front of the computer that pins down a ground loop.

  • Remove the battery connector.

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Image 1/1: Remove the modem.
  • Remove the two Phillips screws from the modem.

  • Remove the modem.

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Image 1/1: Remove the optical drive and attached PRAM battery.
  • Remove the single black Phillips screw from the front right corner of the optical drive.

  • Remove the optical drive and attached PRAM battery.

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Image 1/1: Remove the right USB board.
  • Remove the two Phillips screws from the right USB board.

  • Remove the right USB board.

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Image 1/1:
  • The lower case should now be clear of all major components except for the sleep light.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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iRobot

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