Introduction

I decided to open her up and see it can be repaired - and it could!

Apparently this guide also works for a similar camera, the Lumix Panasonic DMC-ZS10, with the exception that in Step 3 there are 4 extra screws to remove, two on each end.

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • One can clearly see the dust reproduced on the image

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Image 1/1: Electronics Screwdriver set
    • Magnifying Glas

    • Electronics Screwdriver set

    • Cloth and Q-Tips

    • tweezers

    • My Swiss-Army Knife :-)

    • TIP! have a sheet of letter paper to put the parts on as you remove them. You can keep them in removal order so it's easy to reverse the sequence on reassembly.

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Image 1/2: 3 visible in the picture Image 2/2: 2 off screen
  • Remove Bottom screws

    • 3 visible in the picture

    • 2 off screen

    • Only for the DMC-ZS10: there are 4 extra screws to remove, two on each end.

  • Remove front panel

I have a similar camera, the Lumix Panasonic DMC-ZS10, and I found there was 4 extra screws to remove, two on each end.

Alan - Reply

Alan, can you provide an image of the 4 additional screws?

Also, the battery door was removed simply for better handling, there is no other necessitiy. Same goes for the switch, as it is only losely connected and I hate for stuff to fall off and not remembering where it came from :-)

BjoernErik -

1. DMC-ZS10 has only the three pictured screws.

2. The end covers should be popped off after removing the two screws at each end but before removing the front cover.

jeremy5848 - Reply

Image 1/1: slide pin to side
  • This Step is optional and provided simply for better handling.

    • slide pin to side

      • use small pliers to pull or pin to push

    • Caution

      • Don't lose the spring!

    • remove cover

I have a similar camera, the Lumix Panasonic DMC-ZS10, and I could not see the necessity to remove the battery door anywhere in this process, except to get it out of the way.

Alan - Reply

Right. No need to do so.

Pfriemler - Reply

Image 1/3: Remove the switch Image 2/3: It's only secured with a clip at one side and might fall off during handling, if not removed now. However, this step is - optional- Image 3/3: Lift sideways and remove the two PCB connectors
  • Carefully lift the cover slightly upwards

  • Remove the switch

    • It's only secured with a clip at one side and might fall off during handling, if not removed now. However, this step is - optional-

  • Lift sideways and remove the two PCB connectors

    • Best use your fingernail or a soft plastic spudger to gently flip the black plastic on the side of the connector to the right until it flips over

    • Then gently pull the PCB to the left outwards without damaging it or bending it too sharply

  • Remove back cover completely

I have a similar camera, the Lumix Panasonic DMC-ZS10, and there was no necessity to remove the switch, whatever it was. Continued with removing the back cover.

Alan - Reply

In the DMC-ZS10, the view screen can be removed to the side without disconnecting the (3) PCB connectors. This provides enough room to remove the protective cover and then the image sensor. Just be careful not to accidentally bump into the display while it's hanging in the breeze.

jeremy5848 - Reply

Image 1/3: Lift metal clamps gently Image 2/3: Remove metal cover Image 3/3: Remove metal cover
  • Remove screws

  • Lift metal clamps gently

  • Remove metal cover

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Image 1/3: Remove PCB Connector (optional) or simply and carefully flip the assembly over Image 2/3: Now the Chip with its protective cover is accessible Image 3/3: Note: The last two images show the whole imaging subassembly removed - this is NOT required if you only want to access the chip
  • Remove screws holding the Chip assembly

  • Remove PCB Connector (optional) or simply and carefully flip the assembly over

  • Now the Chip with its protective cover is accessible

  • Note: The last two images show the whole imaging subassembly removed - this is NOT required if you only want to access the chip

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Image 1/2: Use a Q-Tip or a lint-free cloth like for glases and check with the magnifier for success Image 2/2: This is a delicate procedure that requires much care and a dust free environment
  • Clean the protective cover (without any cleaning fluid so to not leave residue on the glass)

  • Use a Q-Tip or a lint-free cloth like for glases and check with the magnifier for success

  • This is a delicate procedure that requires much care and a dust free environment

I used a compressed gas "duster" from an office supply store. The dust on my image sensor was easily blown away.

jeremy5848 - Reply

I took the back cover off and just used compressed air in al the small holes around the chip. put the back on and the dust was gone (and it was a lot of dust ). I did it on a panasonic DMC-TZ18 .

thank you ever so much.

Bruce de Groot - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

12 other people completed this guide.

BjoernErik

Member since: 05/03/2010

221 Reputation

1 Guide authored

4 Comments

I just tore open my ZS10, and here are some notes for that model.

- remove the wrist strap if it is attached to the camera.

Step 3: there are only 3 screws in the bottom; as commented by others, there are 2 screws on each side plate. Note that each side plate slides in at the top.

Step 5: there are three PCB connectors; 1 wide, 2 narrow. NOTE: one of the narrow ones (on mine) had the gold connector side facing down, the other 2 had the gold facing up. (I learned this the hard way after putting all with gold up, reassembling the camera, and the screen did not work.)

Step 5: the display screen did not stay with the camera back when I removed the back; it is clipped into the body. There is some black sticky gasket material around most of the inside of the back piece; a small part of this pulled away from the back piece, so I used a tiny amount of glue stick to stick it back down. I figure this helps keep dust out.

General notes:

(see next comment - I'm at the character limit)

Paul Fishman - Reply

(continued from previous) a. the side piece screws had some thread lock on them, and were very difficult to remove. I resorted to using a small pliers on the jewelers screwdriver while pressing down to break each one loose. Be careful. (I also used a teeny amount of locktite on each one when I put it back together.)

b. Once I had the camera reassembled, I noticed a very small piece of grey foam that had fallen out. I have no idea where it goes, so it is not back in the camera.

c. Some instructions for these jobs suggests a bulb-type air blower to get dust out. I used a rubber ear irrigator bulb that I happen to have - just be certain that it is dry inside!

I have some pix of this repair; if you want them, let me know how to upload them.

Thanks folks - this is a terrific resource.

Paul Fishman - Reply

I did a dust remove on a similar camera for a friend. It is a DMC-TZ-20.

From outside it looks very similar to the TZ-10 pictured here. I encountered the same problem with the narrow PCB connector as Paul Fishman. It was quite hard to stick it back into the connector. The golden side is also facing the other way.

Also the side plates need to be removed for this camera.

Jens - Reply

Thx, I did it with a TZ8 and it works with the same mechanical design.

My big dust in blue sky is no more there and I'll enjoy my camera for a couple of month more ;-)

Only one comment about PCB connector, I disconnected it to make it easier but not so easy to replug during reassembling! But it's done. So if you can avoid it, my recomendation is to not disconnect any cable.

Sam Uel - Reply

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