Nintendo Wii Bluetooth Board Replacement

Replace the Bluetooth board on your Wii.

Use this guide to replace your Wii's Bluetooth board. Replacing the Bluetooth board requires removal of most components inside the Wii.

Edit Step 1 Faceplate  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Faceplate  ¶ 

  • Use a metal spudger to remove the white plastic screw covers stuck to the lower case near the front of the Wii.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 8.3 mm Tri-Wing screws hidden under the covers you just removed.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw under the controller port door nearest the faceplate.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Use a metal spudger to remove the rubber foot stuck to the side of the Wii near the DVD drive opening.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 5.9 mm Phillips screw hidden under the foot you just removed.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Carefully pull the faceplate away from the front of the Wii.

  • Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the LED cable's plastic connector from the motherboard.

  • Remove the faceplate.

Edit Step 7 Outer Case  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7 Outer Case  ¶ 

  • Open the controller port cover until it is perpendicular to the black controller port bezel.

  • Pull the controller port cover straight up to release it from the outer case.

  • Repeat this procedure for the memory card port cover.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Remove the two remaining 4.1 mm Phillips screws along the top edge of the black plastic controller port bezel.

  • Lift the bezel from the long edge furthest away from the controller ports and remove it from the Wii.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws above the controller ports.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Use a metal spudger to remove the three highlighted screw covers stuck to the side of the Wii.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws:

    • Two 5 mm Phillips screws

    • One 8.2 mm Tri-Wing screw

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Use a metal spudger to remove the two rubber feet stuck to the bottom face of the Wii near the rear ports.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Wing screws hidden under the feet you just removed.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Lift the outer case straight up off the body of the Wii.

Edit Step 15 DVD Drive  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15 DVD Drive  ¶ 

  • Remove the small Phillips screw securing the battery door to the bottom panel.

  • This screw is captive to the battery door.

  • Pull the battery door out of the Wii.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the 8.2 mm Tri-Wing screw that was hidden beneath the battery door.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 8.2 mm Tri-Wing screws securing the DVD drive shield near the controller ports.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Lift the DVD drive shield upward and remove it from the Wii.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Remove the four 9 mm Phillips screws securing the DVD drive to the bottom panel.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Lift the side of the DVD drive opposite the controller ports enough to access the cables on its bottom face.

  • Carefully pull the DVD drive power cable out from under the plastic shroud near the heat sink.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Pull the DVD drive power cable away from its socket on the DVD drive.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the DVD drive ribbon cable socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the DVD drive ribbon cable out of its socket.

  • Remove the DVD drive from the Wii.

Edit Step 23 Motherboard Cover  ¶ 

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Edit Step 23 Motherboard Cover  ¶ 

  • Use a pair of tweezers to lift the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure your tweezers are clamped down on the fan connector, not the socket on the motherboard.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 10 mm Phillips screws securing the fan to the fan shroud.

  • Remove the fan from the Wii.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger or another fine-pointed tool to carefully pry one of the black plastic retaining fingers attached to the fan shroud away from the Wi-Fi antenna board.

  • Lift the Wi-Fi antenna out of the fan shroud.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 10 mm Phillips screw securing the second Wi-Fi antenna to the top of the fan shroud.

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Remove the two pieces of tape securing the second Wi-Fi antenna cable to the plastic bracket near the heat sink.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Carefully de-route both antennas from the frame of the Wii and lay them aside.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 10 mm Phillips screws securing the fan shroud to the Wii.

  • Lift the fan shroud off the heat sink and remove it from the Wii.

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Remove the following six screws securing the EMI fingers to the bottom panel:

    • Four 7 mm Phillips screws

    • Two 11.3 mm Phillips screws

  • Remove both sets of EMI fingers from the Wii.

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Remove the following three screws:

    • One 7 mm Phillips screw

    • Two 10 mm Phillips screws

  • Lift the bracket out of the Wii.

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 10 mm Phillips screws securing the black bracket to the bottom panel near the front of the Wii.

  • Slightly lift the bracket and use your other hand to pull the retaining clip away from where the Wi-Fi antennas enter the motherboard sheild.

  • Remove the bracket from the Wii.

  • Be sure not to lose the small square nut loosely held by the black plastic bracket.

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Remove the nine remaining 7 mm Phillips screws securing the motherboard cover to the bottom panel.

Edit Step 34  ¶ 

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Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • Carefully lift the motherboard cover off the motherboard, minding any cables that may get caught.

Edit Step 35 Bluetooth Board  ¶ 

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Edit Step 35 Bluetooth Board  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingertips to lift up the end of the Bluetooth board nearest the center of the motherboard.

  • Carefully peel the front edge of the Bluetooth board off the EMI foam attached to the motherboard.

  • Remove the Bluetooth board.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the Nintendo Wii device page.

Required Tools

Metal Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Y1 Tri-wing Screwdriver

$7.95 · 50+ In stock

Tweezers

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

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Recommended Tools

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Comments Comments are onturn off

I just used this guide to fix my Wii's bluetooth. Fantastic step by step guide, Wii responds to wiimote now. Thanks for this awesome repair guide. It took full 2 hours to complete the job.

Mitr, · Reply

I was terrified about trying to fix the Wii myself. These instructions were marvelously accurate and easy to follow. In two hours and for about $15 I was able to repair the Wii and go back to my favorite games. Thanks! :)

Danielle, · Reply

Fantastic write up. My wiimote sync'd right up.

Charlie Kilo, · Reply

surprisingly, this was the trickiest step for me. I almost completely mangled the wires when my tweezers slipped as I was attempting to remove the connector.

rbelknap, · Reply

I ended up using needle nose pliars on this step.

Awesome detailed guide made this very easy, thank you author!

Glenn Woodard, · Reply

Can someone direct me to what I need to do? My tweezers slipped and I cut one of the wires on the connector. Where can I find a new Y plug for the wii?

jaredslaweski, · Reply

I also broke my wire trying to use tweezers. I should have known better. I use (normally do) a spudger on one side and my fingernail on the other to gently pry these types of connectors out. I ended up buying a replacement faceplate on ebay.

Tyler, · Reply

This was the hardest part for me. I tried using my fingernails, two different tweezers, and needle nose pliers, but I ended up cutting both the wires. Anyway, I put some electric tape over the exposed wires and just reassembled the system. Funny thing is that the LED still works and I have not noticed any difference. I'm not sure what those wires did, but they seem to not be important.

Nick, · Reply

I also broke off the flimsy wires at the connector. To NOT break the wires, alternate pressing on the right and left sides of the connector with a small flathead screwdriver. Be patient, it will eventually work itself free. There isn't enough to grab onto with the tweezers and you'll only succeed in having them slip off, grab the wires, and yank the wires out.

Good news is that if you do rip out the wires, no worries... I didn't reconnect them and the unit works just fine. I have no idea what those wires are even for. Power LED continues to work no problem.

jasendorf, · Reply

had a little trouble with theses screws. they were just barely too deep for my 54pies bit driver kit to reach. I ended up inserting a small wad of paper into the shaft of my driver so the tri-wing bit stuck out far enough to engage the screw. (I used the tweezers to remove the paper when I was done) :)

rbelknap, · Reply

This step could use at least another picture from the backside so it's clearer what comes up and what stays down.

Jose Vazquez, · Reply

I used a spudger around the edges of the outer case to gently ease it upward since I could not lift it out with my fingers. Then it came right out.

Marko, · Reply

The screw on the battery door of my Wii required a Phillips #000 screwdriver, which is not listed in the required tools.

Ben, · Reply

Note - this screw is a machine screw (e.g. not self-tapping). It screws into a hex nut, and that nut is captive in a slot in the case. When reassembling, ensure that this hex nut is still captive, and has not migrated out to other areas within the Wii.

dyanetti, · Reply

The two left hand screws were very difficult to relocate during reassembly. I was coaching my 8 year old through this, and this was probably the only step that he couldn't do. We dropped these screws several times, and used magnets to retrieve. Miniature needle-nose pliers gripping the 'washer' surface of the screw were too wide. We managed to purchase the 'button head' of these screws with the needle-nose and drop the screws into their hole, and push with the phillips until secure. I would like to hear how others install these screws, please.

dyanetti, · Reply

I had the same problem as you and eventually found an easy way round it. I wrote this to be added to the instructions but it was rejected: "Once the DVD drive has been removed, remove the 4 rubber washers from the screws removed earlier and insert them into your new DVD drive. Because two of the screws are difficult to reach, it is best to insert these two screws into the washers and then slide them into place ready for securing to the base plate".

The rubber washer holds the two screws roughly in position, you can then reach them with your screwdriver through the two holes (about an inch away) and finish tightening them up.

Gary,

For the two screws at the front of the chassis, use a three-pronged parts retriever to lift them out after you unscrew them.

Walter, · Reply

Helpful tip: Use a magnetized screwdriver for the 2 screws nearest the DVD face because they are set in deep sockets

Blake Minghelli, · Reply

During reassembly, it can be tricky to position the recessed screws. To temporarily magnetize your screwdriver, rub the tip against a magnet for 5-10 seconds. (A refrigerator magnet will do.) You should then be able to put the screw on the tip and gently lower it into position.

Matt D, · Reply

Another method for getting the front screws back in is to insert a small pair of tweezers through the DVD slot to guide the screw in. I just dropped the screw in between the tweezers which held the screw just above the hole. Then I was able to use the phillips screwdriver to guide the screw into the hole and screw it in. Done in just a few seconds.

Another option would be to stick a dab of hot glue on the screw to your screwdriver and then when the screw has been driven home either the glue stays on the driver and is easily removed or it stays on the screw and you just pull it off with tweezers or needle nose pliers.

accts4mjs, · Reply

When reversing these steps to reassemble the Wii, at this point it is possible to do a quick test before screwing the drive to the case. This will save you a lot of time if something is wrong.

Don't touch anything you don't have to while the case is off.

Carefully plug the power cable into the back of the Wii, then use a screwdriver to gently press the white button next to the glowing yellow LED on the front. You should hear the DVD drive power up and whir. Then press the white button again, wait for the yellow light to come back, and unplug the Wii.

If you didn't hear the drive start up, most likely one of the two ribbons isn't connected to the drive correctly. Doublecheck the previous 3 steps.

Matt D, · Reply

When reversing this step, be careful re-inserting the connector. The pins are very delicate and if you aren't at the proper angle, you can bend them and ruin the drive.

jisakoff42, · Reply

When reversing this step, make sure the ribbon is all the way in. For some reason I found positioning it with my replacement drive was much harder than with my old drive. The gentlest tug after lowering the brown clip would show that the ribbon was not actually being held tightly. I thought for a while that the clip itself was broken, but eventually I got it to hold the ribbon correctly.

Matt D, · Reply

Some newer models may have the Wi-Fi antenna wires taped to the top of the plastic bracket instead of the front as pictured.

Jabu, · Reply

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