Introduction

First you will take apart the lower case of the Nintendo 3DS XL, then the upper case in order to reach the ribbons that attach the Upper LCD screen to the rest of the device.

Unscrew the two 4.2 mm screws that are located at the top of the cover. The screws have locking washers that prevent the screws from falling off of the back cover. Leave these locking washers on the screws, it is not necessary to remove the washers for this repair guide.
  • Unscrew the two 4.2 mm screws that are located at the top of the cover.

  • The screws have locking washers that prevent the screws from falling off of the back cover. Leave these locking washers on the screws, it is not necessary to remove the washers for this repair guide.

Note: If your top or bottom screen was working before disassembly and doesn't work after reassembly, then it's likely that the connector is loose or dirty or damaged or not clipped or PLACED UPSIDE-DOWN. I had this issue with my Super3DS XL(2015) and it turns out that the reason why my top screen wasn't working after put together, was because I had the top LCD connector upside-down. After I correctly put the connector in, It worked again!

justjustintuber - Reply

Hold the device so that the cover is facing up. Using a plastic opening tool, pry off the cover starting at the top right corner.
  • Hold the device so that the cover is facing up.

  • Using a plastic opening tool, pry off the cover starting at the top right corner.

    • Hold the edge of the cover to ensure it does not reattach.

    • Look for the small section below the stylus compartment. Pry off the cover at that point if it is still attached.

  • Take off the cover of the device and set aside.

Note that on the lower side (opposite to the hinges), there are small hooking tabs. These require you to lift the top (screw side) off towards you, then the lower area.

Jordan Kelly - Reply

Insert the plastic opening tool into the opening located on the right side of the battery. Pry off the battery from the lower casing. Lift the battery out of the case and set aside.
  • Insert the plastic opening tool into the opening located on the right side of the battery.

  • Pry off the battery from the lower casing.

  • Lift the battery out of the case and set aside.

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Using tweezers pull out the rubber bumpers that are located at the top of the device on either side of the game cartridge compartment. Using tweezers pull out the rubber bumpers that are located at the top of the device on either side of the game cartridge compartment.
  • Using tweezers pull out the rubber bumpers that are located at the top of the device on either side of the game cartridge compartment.

I found that the rubber bumps don't move easily, you'll likely have to use a lot of upward force to move them.

jconnell85 - Reply

I torn one of the bumpers because I used a needle instead.

luxusmirajane - Reply

You do have a pry a bit. I tore one a little but not that big of a deal.

Christopher - Reply

I think the ease of this step would be subject to the age and condition of the 3DS. Mine came out with minimal leverage using my nails.

infmz - Reply

try twisting upward

Kmi Nguyen - Reply

I used a super tiny metal screwdriver to push the bumper against one side and then used the screwdriver to push it up and out

S Maduras - Reply

I tried tweezers but they were scraping against the plastic and I didn't want to leave any marks. Ended up using a tiny flat screwdriver to get them out like S Maduras said. Once I got them out I noticed there was a tiny bit of glue on the bottom holding them in place.

Anth Rodi - Reply

Remove the six 6.2 mm screws using a Phillips #00 screwdriver Remove the six 6.2 mm screws using a Phillips #00 screwdriver
  • Remove the six 6.2 mm screws using a Phillips #00 screwdriver

#000 ifixit philips screwdriver does not fit the 6.2mm screws. Whats the deal?

sevenethshinobi - Reply

I have a 000 Phillips from tekton and it worked just fine.

Megan -

I stripped a good #000 screwdriver, and found that EVERY screw actually fit perfect and snug with a #00 screwdriver. Zero damage to the screws or the screwdriver with the #00.

Vannicke Trabeitt - Reply

Don't buy the #000 screwdriver from this site! It's poorly made and strips the screws. I had to drill the screws out and replace them, it was very tricky and nearly broke my DS. Get a screwdriver from an electronics store.

sharga - Reply

I bought and used the #00 screwdriver, and it worked perfectly for this.

I had also bought the #000, but I never needed it during the entire operation.

jconnell85 - Reply

All 6 screws are exactly the same so you don't have to worry about mixing them up.

Christopher - Reply

One of the screws in my 3ds XL seems to have its '+' engraving worn off, i can't seem to unscrew it, though the other 5 unscrewed properly. What should I do?

Potato Man - Reply

J000 works better here.

Dom - Reply

Remove the 2.3 mm screw located above the game cartridge slot with a Phillips #00 screwdriver.
  • Remove the 2.3 mm screw located above the game cartridge slot with a Phillips #00 screwdriver.

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With a plastic opening tool pry off the lower case starting at the bottom edge and working around the perimeter. Two ribbon cables connect the case to the circuit board. Be careful to not pull the case too hard and rip the ribbon cables. Two ribbon cables connect the case to the circuit board. Be careful to not pull the case too hard and rip the ribbon cables.
  • With a plastic opening tool pry off the lower case starting at the bottom edge and working around the perimeter.

  • Two ribbon cables connect the case to the circuit board. Be careful to not pull the case too hard and rip the ribbon cables.

Make sure that you have removed your SD card, otherwise that'll keep you from completing this step.

jconnell85 - Reply

Remove the ribbon cables located underneath the left and right bumpers by prying up the base of the cables with a plastic opening tool. Completely remove the lower case from the rest of the device and set aside. Completely remove the lower case from the rest of the device and set aside.
  • Remove the ribbon cables located underneath the left and right bumpers by prying up the base of the cables with a plastic opening tool.

  • Completely remove the lower case from the rest of the device and set aside.

The IR board is facing the wrong way.

Jordan - Reply

Thank you so much for pointing that out, it was keeping my system from starting up and I thought I blew it!

Ryan Hescock -

Yup, that is definitely an upside-down IR board, and will result in a silent post error. It was driving me crazy trying to figure out why the system wouldn't start up.

alexmouravskiy -

That's it!! Thanks so much!! I've tinkered around about one month and couldn't get this thing to work...all because I've followed the guide here and looked the picture up twice so I don't put the IR-Board in the wrong way...

chfreydank -

Hehe. That would explain why it was not working ;-)

boma40 - Reply

Thank you guys so much! I followed everything faithfully and it was DOA on startup. (Black screens, blue light). The IR board was backwards. These pictures need to be fixed. As-is, it shows a broken 3DS.

jtmuehlbauer - Reply

Position the device such that the game cartridge slot is located at the top. Locate the circle pad on the right side of the device.
  • Position the device such that the game cartridge slot is located at the top.

  • Locate the circle pad on the right side of the device.

  • Remove the two 7.5 mm screws on the upper left and the bottom right corners.

This IR is bad side, diode IR must be UP

patholog - Reply

Using a plastic opening tool pop off the circle pad joystick. Do not use excessive force with the plastic opening tool. There is a ribbon attaching the circle pad joystick to the motherboard that will remain attached.
  • Using a plastic opening tool pop off the circle pad joystick.

    • Do not use excessive force with the plastic opening tool. There is a ribbon attaching the circle pad joystick to the motherboard that will remain attached.

  • There is a loose washer located in between the circle pad joystick and the circle pad. Use caution and do not lose this piece.

I found it easy to put my finger ontop of the board and apply a little pressure. When i popped off the board, my finger stopped it flying off.

Chris Ramsay - Reply

Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the retaining flap that attaches the circle pad ribbon to the motherboard. Remove the ribbon and circle pad joystick.
  • Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the retaining flap that attaches the circle pad ribbon to the motherboard.

  • Remove the ribbon and circle pad joystick.

The 'flat head' holds it in place when down, and you can reattach your ribbon cable when it's up, it only needs to be partway in so when you close the flat head, if your joystick board can't move easily in place then you've done it right, it it's too loose, try again to work the ribbon cable under.

jconnell85 - Reply

The ribbon goes into the left side of the "flat head" right? Not the end that clamps down on the right? I'm having a !&&* of a time sliding the end of the ribbon into the little space between the flat head when it's up and the side of the terminal.

Sedroc Djeddi -

For those of you like me, who got stuck after the last step.

To understand how to actually remove the circle pad, continue with these steps at 21.

Nintendo 3DS Circle Pad Replacement

Hope it helps those after me. I almost ripped some cabling inside thinking I had to take out the motherboard.. luckily I didn't.

monk333y - Reply

Just as what monk333y said, follow the Original 3DS steps. They are identical and you don't have to remove anymore big parts. The only annoying part is taking out the circle pad.

luxusmirajane - Reply

I broke the retaining clip. It is not very strong and I used a bit too much force i think in opening the clip or pushing it back down. Thinking of using hot glue or something else to keep the circle pad ribbon in place.

Lawrence - Reply

How do you re attach the ribbons? do the just snap right into the motherboard?

petraogan - Reply

thank you monk333y, the author of this guide needs to correct a couple of things and how hard would it be for her to add steps 21 onward from the other guide?

S Maduras - Reply

step 11, if you're just replacing the button, you don't need to disconnect the circle pad ribbon from the motherboard.

S Maduras - Reply

During re-assemblhy, note that the peg between the joystick mechanism and the circle pad is rectangular, and must fit into the matching rectangular socket on the circle pad.

Dan - Reply

Position the device such that the game cartridge slot is located at the top. Locate the IR board located on the upper right side of the motherboard.
  • Position the device such that the game cartridge slot is located at the top.

  • Locate the IR board located on the upper right side of the motherboard.

    • The IR board is installed upside-down in these photos by mistake. Installing it this way will result in your DS failing to start. Note the orientation of your IR board before you remove it, and reinstall it the same way.

  • Remove the IR board with a plastic opening tool by inserting the tool below the IR board and gently prying up.

The IR board appears to be upside down in this photo.

ealaney - Reply

One assumes they forgot to take the photo before removal and quickly put it back on upside down (accidentally) for the purposes of taking the photo.

Retro Gaming Repair -

Removing the IR board is actually a completely unnecessary step. It's absolutely fine to leave the IR board attached to the motherboard, it's then one less loose piece to go missing ;)

Retro Gaming Repair - Reply

The reason they remove these "easily loosable" pieces is because there's an order to put the board back together or the 3DS won't turn on. This is for replacing the motherboard, which most of the time you will buy and it won't come with the microphone, volume or IR board. Use your head kiddo. If it's so easy to loose these pieces, you should keep better track of them. We might as well just not take out any screws as well because those are very easy to loose

Miles Holiman -

You should add this note to the other uses of this picture; I accidentally knocked that chip off and reinstalled it upside down. I was referencing the photos for replacing the joystick.

Infernal Dalek - Reply

You skipped removing the microphopne.

Mykaila Brown - Reply

In my 3DXL, there was no IR board: the parts were installed directly on the motherboard.

Dan - Reply

Using a plastic opening tool, pry off the Wi-Fi board. The Wi-Fi board will still be connected by a wire and it is not necessary to completely remove it for this step. Simply place it out of the way for this step.
  • Using a plastic opening tool, pry off the Wi-Fi board.

  • The Wi-Fi board will still be connected by a wire and it is not necessary to completely remove it for this step. Simply place it out of the way for this step.

Component on bottom left was taken off, but not mentioned. Not sure what it does it does, and I'm assuming it's unimportant, but I just wanted to note.

Jordan - Reply

The thing on the bottom left in the little black rubber cover is the mic!

Maxwell Alexander -

Why not just seperate the wifi board from the antenna now while in your hands? You're going to do it later anyway...

Retro Gaming Repair - Reply

Locate the volume switch on the right side of the motherboard next to the circle pad joystick. Using tweezers, carefully remove the volume board from the casing. It will still be attached to the motherboard by a ribbon cable.
  • Locate the volume switch on the right side of the motherboard next to the circle pad joystick.

  • Using tweezers, carefully remove the volume board from the casing. It will still be attached to the motherboard by a ribbon cable.

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Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the flap that attaches the volume board ribbon to the motherboard.
  • Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the flap that attaches the volume board ribbon to the motherboard.

  • Remove the volume board and set aside.

This step proved to be unnecessary. It's perfectly fine to leave it attached, and again it's one less small fiddly piece to go missing.

Retro Gaming Repair - Reply

Remove the black plastic pieces from the lower left and right hand corners with either your fingers or tweezers. You can also remove these pieces easily by carefully lifting up the 3DS and holding it upside-down.   They normally fall right out, but don't lose them!
  • Remove the black plastic pieces from the lower left and right hand corners with either your fingers or tweezers.

  • You can also remove these pieces easily by carefully lifting up the 3DS and holding it upside-down. They normally fall right out, but don't lose them!

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Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the flap that attaches the two smaller ribbons to the motherboard. These flaps are located on the top right and bottom right side of the motherboard. Remove the ribbons from the flap.
  • Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the flap that attaches the two smaller ribbons to the motherboard.

  • These flaps are located on the top right and bottom right side of the motherboard.

  • Remove the ribbons from the flap.

For the first picture on step 17, (the one at the top of the board) what does that cable connect to? My clip broke.

Bradly - Reply

MMM as far as I can tell it looks like it's for the touch screen as it plugs into p13 and is the same plug type as p10, p12 and p17 and a couple others. Could be wrong though :)

Connor -

Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the flaps that attach the wider ribbons to the motherboard. For the wider ribbons make sure to lift the flaps from the white side. Remove the ribbons from the opened flaps.
  • Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the flaps that attach the wider ribbons to the motherboard.

  • For the wider ribbons make sure to lift the flaps from the white side.

  • Remove the ribbons from the opened flaps.

Note: the top right wider ribbon is for the camera, the thinner ribbon in the top right is for the speakers and the bottom ribbon is to the upper lcd. You will want to ensure you stack the ribbons appropriately when putting the system back together.

Elaine - Reply

Had some trouble with this: Not exactly sure why, but when after successfully replacing the screen and beginning to resemble, while reinserting the wide ribbon for the lower LCD (p8) it seems that the white locking clip unhinged itself from the connector, and bent some of the pins. The ribbon now won't fully insert.. Can't figure out if I've somehow completely ruined my 3ds. Mostly concerned about my save data that's not on my sdcard.

kbbauer - Reply

Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the flap that attaches the ribbon to the motherboard. For this flap lift from the black side.
  • Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the flap that attaches the ribbon to the motherboard.

  • For this flap lift from the black side.

  • Remove the ribbon from the flap.

    • Reassembly: This wide ribbon is the one with the BLACK STRIPE and goes on the upper (visible) side of the motherboard during reassembly.

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Remove ten 5.5 mm screws that are located around the face of the motherboard. Remove ten 5.5 mm screws that are located around the face of the motherboard.
  • Remove ten 5.5 mm screws that are located around the face of the motherboard.

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The motherboard will still be attached at the top right hand corner so do not completely detach it at this point. Carefully lift the board straight up just enough to clear the two plastic mounts located near the top corners of the cartridge slot.
  • The motherboard will still be attached at the top right hand corner so do not completely detach it at this point.

  • Carefully lift the board straight up just enough to clear the two plastic mounts located near the top corners of the cartridge slot.

  • Gently flip the motherboard over the top side.

Laying it down like this puts too much stress on the ribbon cable. I find it better to release the connector while the board is tilted at a 90 degree angle to the body of the 3DS. Less chance of damage to the top screen cable that way.

Retro Gaming Repair - Reply

Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the flap that attaches the wider ribbon on the upper right side to the motherboard. Make sure to lift the flap from the white side.
  • Using the flat head side of the spudger carefully lift up the flap that attaches the wider ribbon on the upper right side to the motherboard.

  • Make sure to lift the flap from the white side.

  • Remove the ribbon from the opened flap.

  • Set the motherboard aside.

So I tore this wire is this the visual or something?? Please help

linkon king - Reply

I tore this wire too. Am I able to buy it individually?

dobe mon - Reply

How do you get this cable back in? It is way too short...

Luke Miller - Reply

Tweezers, steady hand, and a little luck.

Marcus DeCamp - Reply

Open the device such that the upper LCD is on top. Using tweezers remove the four rubber pieces that are in all four corners.
  • Open the device such that the upper LCD is on top.

  • Using tweezers remove the four rubber pieces that are in all four corners.

I find tweezers can cause damage to the rubber screw covers too frequently. Using a fine sewing needle and prying them up from the corner helps to avoid damage to them seeing as you have to replace them later. You can see the one in the bottom right corner here is damaged. Using an exacto knife or razor blade is also too risky.

Retro Gaming Repair - Reply

I removed the rubber covers and the screws aren't there.

Noah Wilkerson - Reply

pry them up from corner at an angle to get underneath them. you will have a harder time trying to pull them up from the sides.

Kmi Nguyen - Reply

Noah It's possible you saw the shiny part underneath the rubber. They're supposed to come off with the rubber but I screwed up on the last one and didn't get that part out with the rubber. You might be seeing that. It's actually more difficult to get those out :/

Cary Hapeman - Reply

Remove the four 4.3 mm screws located underneath the four rubber pieces with a Phillips #00 screwdriver head. Remove the four 4.3 mm screws located underneath the four rubber pieces with a Phillips #00 screwdriver head.
  • Remove the four 4.3 mm screws located underneath the four rubber pieces with a Phillips #00 screwdriver head.

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Flip over the device and close the hinge. Position your fingers at the top of the hinge and push downwards in order to push the cover downwards away from the hinge. It only moves 2mm (1/8"). Position your fingers at the top of the hinge and push downwards in order to push the cover downwards away from the hinge. It only moves 2mm (1/8").
  • Flip over the device and close the hinge.

  • Position your fingers at the top of the hinge and push downwards in order to push the cover downwards away from the hinge. It only moves 2mm (1/8").

Mine was pretty tight so I had to force my plastic spudger into the opening to get anywhere

Tim T - Reply

Once the top case is loose and unclipped, remove it from the DS.
  • Once the top case is loose and unclipped, remove it from the DS.

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Remove the screw that is holding 3D mechanism toggle button in place. Carefully pull off the ribbons that connect the camera and speakers to the Upper LCD. The ribbons are attached with adhesives so take caution while removing.
  • Remove the screw that is holding 3D mechanism toggle button in place.

  • Carefully pull off the ribbons that connect the camera and speakers to the Upper LCD.

  • The ribbons are attached with adhesives so take caution while removing.

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Remove the two small ribbons located on the upper left corner.
  • Remove the two small ribbons located on the upper left corner.

  • Using a spudger lift up the black hinges that connect the ribbons to the bracket.

  • Pull the ribbons out of the bracket.

The problem with reassembly is getting the LCD Flex cable back and through the hinge. It is very very likely to rip the cable due to the angle of the cable and the wind up "tube" you create to push the cable through the hinge.

Remember if you rip the LCD cable you'll need to get a completely new LCD.

Kneil Kameron - Reply

Open the hinge and carefully pop off the Upper LCD using your fingers. Gently remove the ribbon from the hinge. Do not lose the tiny fabric and rubber water-resistant rectangles that cover the two speakers; they often fall out once the speakers are removed.
  • Open the hinge and carefully pop off the Upper LCD using your fingers.

  • Gently remove the ribbon from the hinge.

  • Do not lose the tiny fabric and rubber water-resistant rectangles that cover the two speakers; they often fall out once the speakers are removed.

  • The screen's cover glass can be replaced or transferred to your new screen. The cover is easily scratched by metal tools; use plastic or your fingernail to separate it.

    • Adhere the cover to the new screen by using thin adhesive around the edges, or by reusing the old adhesive.

I would recommend removing the left side hinge, hard to get to it but it does slide out just like the smaller 3ds. Otherwise you will tear the ribbon cables putting them back thru.

jehusk - Reply

I was very precise in my reassembly which overall did take much longer than 30mins. After recharging, I can power up no problem and both screens come on with backlight! But no operating system starts up. I have lights, power, charging, wifi... But no system startup!! My IR board is correct (upside down from the above pic, I used another video guide) but I do not know what else could cause this?? Any ideas of what could be loose/missed connection causing this??

Laurajane - Reply

Don't know if you fixed this but it could be caused by a bad wifi board. Have you tried replacing that?

Retro Gaming Repair -

Sweet buttery babies, removing the ribbon cables through the hinge is the most stressful thing I've done all week. You need to add more detailed pictures of this, the hardest step.

Tom Burke - Reply

Please see my reply, hope it helps. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair -

I found it easier to remove the hinge on the other side (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWmoXDuU... for how) and then do the cables that way, wrapping them (and a touch of tape) around a small screwdriver to help feed through... But holy crap was that the hardest part of this.

Had it not been for that, this would have been a 20 minute repair, instead, first time, 3 hours.... wtf

rdewalt -

Why has nobody posted explaining how to seperate the middle sections? It's actually pretty simple to do. Open the remaining parts of the 3DS XL to the 2nd widest setting (not 180 degrees, just before that). Once done, in the right hinge there is a shiny black piece with a gap in it. Through this gap you can see the white of the hinge. Use a small flathead screwdriver to nudge the hinge towards the center of the 3DS XL. Be gentle, it will slide far enough so you can almost seperate the top half. If you do it right it will be just shy of clearing, so gently bend the right hinge just a millimetre or two and you will be able to pull the barrel hinge side clear. Don't go nuts, as you still have to carefully thread the ribbon cables out through the slit of doom, making sure not to get them caught on the wifi cable. Continued in reply...

Retro Gaming Repair - Reply

Once free, gently pry the top screen out (it's stuck with an adhesive strip round the front of the screen) and flip it downwards. Pull the wifi cable through the ring and away from the ribbons, then roll your 3 ribbon cables up tight and gently pull those too though the ring. Don't forget to remove the black adhesive strip and plastic screen lens to put onto your new screen. Follow the directions in reverse to put your 2 halves together and follow the rest of this guide in reverse to get your 3DS XL working as good as new again. I hope this helps someone, if I get time one day I will take some photos to show how to do this. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair -

I was wondering why I can't seem to get upper lcd cable to go in properly it's always setup upside down when I roll the three ribbon cables together? You have any input on that? Thanks

Tony Azarian -

Thank u, very good to explain how to extract these ribbons. Need some photos to update this tutorial...

Frederic Morelli -

Your comment saved this project for me. This guide, as written, woefully underportrays the difficulty of not damaging any of the ribbon connectors for this step. You are MUCH better off separating the hinges (The Retro Gaming Repair, paired with YouTube videos, are a great resource) and working the ribbons through the metal hinge liner and the wide slot than trying to worm the new screen ribbon through the hinge liner and much smaller hole while still connected.

Jesse Espe -

This is ridiculous. Tore the ribbon trying to get it through the hinge. New screen is toast.

ben_chronister - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

85 other people completed this guide.

Charlene Donlon

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47 Comments

Any good ways to get the ribbon cable back through the hole?

Timothy Levonius - Reply

did u find a solution?? i need help.

David Mancini -

Carefully just have a pre-twist to it....good luck

Stephen Hernandez -

Note: If your top or bottom screen was working before disassembly and doesn't work after reassembly, then it's likely that the connector is loose or dirty or damaged or not clipped or PLACED UPSIDE-DOWN. I had this issue with my Super3DS XL(2015) and it turns out that the reason why my top screen wasn't working after put together, was because I had the top LCD connector upside-down. After I correctly put the connector in, It worked again! :)

justjustintuber -

Try a Bobby hair pin.

Jesse James Cantu -

As with the original 3ds you need to roll it up together with the other 2 cables and feed it through, I use a pair of rubber tipped tweezers, it can be a pain and will take time to get it right, go slow so you don't rip the cables.

john husk - Reply

How do you put the ribbons back properly?? i cant get them to go in!!

David Mancini - Reply

You should edit the images that show the IR board to at least identify that that piece is backwards in your photos and also to highlight the mic in the bottom left.

Ryan Hescock - Reply

I struggled with getting the ribbon back through the hinge. I even ripped it on my first try and had to order another screen.

In the end, I used a straw, like the kind you'd drink a coke with, and cut a 1/4 inch section from it and wound the ribbon in that straw piece and pushed it through the hinge with no problem.

You will need something like a soldering holder or clamps to hold the 3DS XL itself while you do this, no way you can hold the screen, the ribbon/straw and the 3DS XL at the same time.

jason s - Reply

Says 30 minutes on time to complete. I'd say you're looking at more like 2-3 hours with a success rate of 50% due to the difficulty of threading the display ribbon back through the hinge. That part alone took me 2-3 hrs.

jason s - Reply

Just a note, I FINALLY managed to unhinge the 3DS found a youtube video with a comment that helped lead me in the right direction. It's a huge pain to get off but makes threading the ribbons easier and lowers chance of dmg.

To remove the hinge go to t he hinge that does NOT have the ribbons. Beside there is a piece of plastic that sits on top of the LED power light, look for a small opening, if you look carefully you should see white plastic. Make sure to close the 3ds carefully and push the piece of plastic towards towards the middle of the case (this can require a lot of force). The hinge should now detach be careful. Once the white plastic is far enough in, the plastic piece surrounding the LED plastic should come up quite easily.

Now you can thread the ribbon cables on the other hinge through quite easily.

Connor - Reply

Just a note, it does take a LOT of force to remove it, AND to replace it, and the piece that slides out easily that holds the hinge in place as well as the clear Streetpass LED piece. I had mine half together when I realized a little clear piece was sitting on my table, and had to take it apart to find where it came from, and found it after taking the hinge apart again ... the last thing to do.

Vannicke Trabeitt -

Thanks for your comment! I think the hinge part is the most difficult part for tackling top screen replacement/ replacing speaker cable (in my case).

timyip3 -

For the record the barrel hinge (white part) slides out of the way much easier if you open the 3DS XL halves to the second 'click' before trying to nudge it. Not quite 180 degrees. Once done it slides out much more easily, just remember to put it back in the same way. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair -

I did it! I did it!

- But a few notes: The ribbon cable is 1000x easier to put through the slot in the plastic on the case if you remove the hinge piece, as noted by Connor (Thank you!)

- I had ripped the ribbon on the cracked screen I had been trying to pull it out, and UNHINGING THE TWO HALVES of the 3ds makes the ribbon part MUCH EASIER.

- Also, I destroyed a #000 philips head on the fourth screw. A #00 fit perfectly, and there was no more damage to screws.

Result: My Zelda Edition 3DS XL is now repaired, but it took 3 hours, not 30 minutes, and destroyed a #000 screwdriver in the process. I recommend using a #00.

Vannicke Trabeitt - Reply

Just have patience and be careful as with any repair....sorry yall had so much trouble....

Stephen Hernandez - Reply

********Note: If your top or bottom screen was working before disassembly and doesn't work after reassembly, then it's likely that the connector is loose or dirty or damaged or not clipped or PLACED UPSIDE-DOWN. I had this issue with my Super3DS XL(2015 New3DS XL) and it turns out that the reason why my top screen wasn't working after put together, was because I had the top LCD connector upside-down. After I correctly put the connector in, It worked again! :) ********

justjustintuber - Reply

Hi

I am a attempting a hinge repair by replacing the full shell. I have an issue when I have come to step 23 and 24. After removing the rubber for the four screws, the screw heads are not shown, instead a metal plate is present. Any ideas ??

ngrafton - Reply

It's just a foil like material if you haven't figured that out by now. Cut a little deeper but not all the way around, you can use a small amount of adhesive to put the black screw covers back in place, otherwise you'll be staring at screw heads every time you open the 3ds xl.

jehusk -

i can't open the top screen

Christopher Hunter - Reply

Be careful ! this guide is not finished ! there is a lake of informations about how to extract the LCD top screen and how to open the hinge.

My first LCD top screen replacement for a 3DS XL was very difficult. Hard if you are a beginner.

Frederic Morelli - Reply

Warning: if you are a beginner, don't attempt this. I have taken apart many ds lites and put them together and I found this challenging.

Megan - Reply

This was so IRRITATING Not enough description in step 29

Cody Rozema - Reply

Please see my comment in step 29. I hope it helps. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair -

The upper LCd ribbon when u put it in does the contact side of the ribbon go towards the motherboard or does the contact Side face up

Dave - Reply

OK so I got the upper screen and hook everything back up hit the power button an the bottom screen flashes then the power light turns off anyone know what I could have done wrong

Dave - Reply

Hello all ok I got it together I hit power button light comes on lower screen flashes then powers off anybody know what I could have done wrong

Dave - Reply

One of your cables isnt fully connected

Patrick Wulfe -

Sounds like top screen cable may have been damaged, or the ribbon cable for it isn't seated properly in the connector if you haven't fixed this already.

Retro Gaming Repair -

For anyone having problems removing or re-installing the ribbon cable, see this video for a technique that could hopefully ease the pain:

https://youtu.be/OAUEms0X5TQ

djrpascu - Reply

I put the new upper screen in an it won't power on blue light just flashes for a second

Dave - Reply

Don't know if you'll see my other reply but if your bottom screen flashes white for a second then there's a problem with the top LCD. Either the ribbon cable is damaged, or its not properly fitted into the connector (hanging out or wrong way round). If the cable is damaged (tears can be very difficult to spot) then you'll need a new top LCD. Hope this helps. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair -

Totally wrecked the plastic covers and the foil covers mentioned in step 23. Find an easier workaround than tweezers unless you want to be seeing screws every time you open your DS.

Ari Aviles - Reply

I use a fine sewing needle, dig it down the corner of one of them as far as you can before levering the screw cover up, that way you're less likely to destroy them :) James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair -

The cable that feeds through the hinge on my ads xl is ripped, what should i buy to replace it?

Don Bittle - Reply

Depends which cable is ripped. If it's the black one that's the camera. The thinner orange one is speaker flex cable. The thicker orange is the top LCD. Hope this helps. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair -

My lcd ribbon cable when twisted and put through the hinge it's always upside down? Is there a method to get it the right side up?

Tony Azarian - Reply

what would cause the bottom LCD display to not work? the touch function does but i can't see anything

Steve Taylor - Reply

If the outer screen is not cracked and the sound still works do you need to buy those parts too?

mercenarywarlord - Reply

I have replaced the top screen, it receives power but doesn't display content, anyone have any ideas?

kyle1986 - Reply

Hello, somebody had problems with the top case reinstall?. Thanks.

hernanlopezpardo - Reply

The IR board is kinda obvious which way it should point. This was not an easy repair in my opinion. It had me cussing and swearing through out the entire repair. But I was surprised when it all worked properly! I was sure I had torn a ribbon cable, forgot something or put something in backwards. Not sure I would do one again.

pwatton2003 - Reply

I have a 2015 3DS XL and the top screen needs to be replaced. I noticed there are multiple top screens replacements out there, does anyone know the correct top screen I need to order? Or where I can find a model # to match against?

3dsdj - Reply

I have the 2013 3DS XL Mario and Luigi Dream team edition, not sure what screen to order

Kfalls fan - Reply

Where did this guy find the screwdrivers? Cause i need those, one day i will do a teardown.

Santi12008 - Reply

Ottima Guida.

Seguendo i passi si riesce a completare il lavoro perfettamente.(occhio a rimontare il modulo IR al contrario di come rappresentato in foto, altrimenti quando si accende la Ds non visualizza niente a schermo; c'è scritto anche sulla nota a fianco della foto.

Le difficoltà maggiori sono nel far passare il cavo flat del nuovo LCD che deve essere attorcigliato attorno al cavo verde antenna.

Buon lavoro e grazie Ifix.

Gianluca - Reply

Hey there. Just followed the guide and finished the replacement of the top screen. Current predicament is that the system is charging (orange LED comes on) but it will not turn on. I tried reseating the wifi board, resat most of the ribbon cables, and double checked everything again. I do not have the pop sound that some others have been having. When I push the power button, the screens stay black but the orange charging light does turn off for a moment before coming back on.

I know that this 3DS XL turned on before starting the upper LCD replacement.

Nools McSpanner - Reply

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