Introduction

The LCD screen assembly is composed of the digitizer (screen glass) and LCD. By completing all of the prerequisite guides, you will be left with your device's LCD screen assembly.

Image 1/2: Use your plastic opening tool to wedge between the seams around the sides of the device. Pry open each side, one at a time. Image 2/2: Do not pry near the USB port at the base of the device as you may crack the rear panel.
  • Power down your device.

  • Use your plastic opening tool to wedge between the seams around the sides of the device. Pry open each side, one at a time.

  • Do not pry near the USB port at the base of the device as you may crack the rear panel.

I had a heck of a time doing this, spent ten or twenty minutes carefully prying, and I STILL cracked the case. At least on mine, the case was held in VERY well and required prying pretty much everywhere before it would let go. The tools I bought from iFixit really helped, but still a royal pain to open.

pacmanmaster - Reply

a couple of obscure things that might help in opening:

guitar pick. get a few; they are cheap.

a prying device made for the sign industry: its called"lil' chizler". I have found that this to be the most helpful opening tool.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/16184595677...

also

https://www.qualitylogoproducts.com/trad...

you can use the broken screen unit to test.

Len Gorsky - Reply

Add "remove the sim tray"...

Iain Lennon - Reply

Image 1/1: Be careful around the corners. The body of the device can be fragile.
  • Work fingers around the seam between device and back cover. Use your plastic opening tool and fingers to separate each side until device and back cover are completely apart.

  • Be careful around the corners. The body of the device can be fragile.

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Image 1/3: Using the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail, flip up the thin portion of the connector (opposite of the side where the cable inserts) to release the cable from its socket. Image 2/3: DO NOT PRY the socket on the side where the cable inserts, or you may break the entire socket off the motherboard. Image 3/3: Slide the cable out of the ZIF socket.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the clear protective flap on the ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Using the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail, flip up the thin portion of the connector (opposite of the side where the cable inserts) to release the cable from its socket.

    • DO NOT PRY the socket on the side where the cable inserts, or you may break the entire socket off the motherboard.

  • Slide the cable out of the ZIF socket.

Flip up on the WHITE part, facing away from the cable. I sort of struggled with this part, but fortunately didn't do any serious damage.

yuguoxiong - Reply

This is the correct way to do it. Flipping up the white part is what you have to do. I tried flipping up the black part and some of it broke off.

Ryan -

I found that I had to flip up on the black part here. I broke a section of the white trying to flip it up.

pattylanter - Reply

This comment saved me on this step. Indeed the secret is to flip up the black part of the connector, located opposite the side where the cable inserts.

Hannah Cirimele -

This is wrong, these comments should be deleted so as to not confuse more people.

Jeff Andrews -

It's possible there's more than one color variation in production on these Nexus 7 ZIF sockets. To complicate matters, it looks like the guide's original author/photographer may have simply yanked the ribbon cable out without opening the socket, so there's very little visual clue here as to which is the right section to flip up. Based on these photos, I'd say Hannah's tip is probably correct—you want to flip up the thinner portion of the socket, opposite the cable (regardless of its color scheme). If someone who has successfully completed this step could supply a better photo, that would be super helpful!

Jeff Suovanen -

I revised the text so there's no long any mention of the coloration of the socket.

Jeff Suovanen -

I believe I broke the ZIF attached to the mobo at this step; is there any other way to reconnect it during reassembly or will I require a new mobo?

Neil Reed - Reply

This was my first time with this kind of ZIF socket and found these instructions/pictures ambiguous. In hindsight I see what was being described (actually used the replacement daughterboard as my guide). May I suggest this phrasing:

The ZIF clamp hinges on the side opposite of where the cable in inserted. Using the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail, flip the thin portion of the connector up and away from the insertion side of the connector.

charles fineman - Reply

Correction of Charles' Oct comment: The ZIF clamp hinges on the same side as the cable is inserted, the side towards the battery. The cable runs over the battery and into the thick connector, with contacts both on the side closest to the battery and on the side away from the battery. Beyond the contacts on the side away from the battery is the thin part to be lifted. Using the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail, flip the thin portion of the connector up and towards the insertion side of the connector. You can leverage gently against the big copper-covered area on the side away from the battery, in lifting the thin (white in the current picture) part of the connector.

tballou - Reply

You can leverage gently against the big copper-covered area on the side away from the battery, in lifting the thin (white in the current picture) part of the connector, using a motion similar to the described in step 5 below for removing the orange ribbon connector.

tballou - Reply

some better macro photos of the zif socket would help a lot, in closed and open states

Iain Lennon - Reply

For anyone like me who has only experience with metal connectors similar to iPhones, this is a "switch-on/switch-off" connector.

The cable doesn't pop out by itself, you have to pull it out yourself.

Light to moderate pressure required.

Jason - Reply

Please make the pictures clearer as Iain Lennon said. I too was a fool to not read the comments and broke the connector off of the motherboard.

Yumi Blesh - Reply

Image 1/1: The ribbon connections should now be fully visible, with the plastic tabs exposed.
  • Peel protective foil cover back top of mother board to expose orange ribbon connection.

  • The ribbon connections should now be fully visible, with the plastic tabs exposed.

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Image 1/3: Using the plastic opening tool, pry upward under the orange ribbon connector. It will pop right out of place. Image 2/3: Using the plastic opening tool, pry upward under the orange ribbon connector. It will pop right out of place. Image 3/3: Using the plastic opening tool, pry upward under the orange ribbon connector. It will pop right out of place.
  • Using the tweezers, peel back the silver protective foil on top of the orange ribbon connector.

  • Using the plastic opening tool, pry upward under the orange ribbon connector. It will pop right out of place.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Now that the two main ribbons are disconnected, fold and hold them back with your fingers, or place the tweezers or a light object on the ribbons to keep them in place.

How called is the left one ? I broke it and i will buy it but cant find it..

Timo Dohmen - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use the #0 Phillips Screwdriver to remove the four silver 3 mm Philips #0 screws from around the battery housing.

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Image 1/1:
  • Insert the plastic opening tool under the side edge of the battery connector, and gently pry upward to disconnect it.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the battery from your device by applying pressure at the base of the battery and lifting it out.

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Image 1/2: Be aware that this action will void your warranty. Image 2/2: Be sure to store the seal in a place where it will not get dirty and can retain its stickiness.
  • Remove the gray seal covering the top center screw on the daughterboard.

  • Be aware that this action will void your warranty.

  • Be sure to store the seal in a place where it will not get dirty and can retain its stickiness.

I couldn't get a grasp on the sticker enough to peel it off, so just punched through it with the screwdriver. I don't know the point of removing the sticker, since the warranty is voided anyway by either time or the mere act of disassembly.

yuguoxiong - Reply

How come the battery is still in place in the picture? I couldn't get the battery out until I'd removed another 3 screws...1 on the daughterboard (step 11) and 2 on the motherboard (step 16).

Mark Birbeck - Reply

Both hidden screws were holding the battery tray in place. I was not able to remove the battery as described in step 9 before removing the screw from this step

coutureg - Reply

Image 1/1: Use the same Phillips #0 screwdriver to remove the two silver 3 mm sized screws from either side of the micro USB.
  • Using the Phillips #0 screwdriver, unscrew the 5 black 2 mm sized screws from around the edge of the daughterboard.

  • Use the same Phillips #0 screwdriver to remove the two silver 3 mm sized screws from either side of the micro USB.

Is there a reason you suggested removing the screws at this point? I found it to be more of a hassle having the board moving around as I did the next several disconnects. Unless there's a good reason, I would suggest leaving the screws in until the foam and the connectors have been detached.

charles fineman - Reply

Image 1/2: Be gentle in this step as this connector can be fragile. Do not pull upwards. Image 2/2: Be gentle in this step as this connector can be fragile. Do not pull upwards.
  • Use the tweezers to unplug the speaker connector from the daughterboard by pulling sideways.

  • Be gentle in this step as this connector can be fragile. Do not pull upwards.

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Image 1/1:
  • Slowly peel off the cover adhered to the pin connector with the tweezers.

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Image 1/2: When disconnecting the ZIF sockets flip them outwards to the edge of the board/towards the cables respectively. Image 2/2: Be careful not to damage the pin connector. Pull parallel to the device, not up.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail to carefully flip up both retaining flaps one each of the ZIF sockets.

    • When disconnecting the ZIF sockets flip them outwards to the edge of the board/towards the cables respectively.

  • Be careful not to damage the pin connector. Pull parallel to the device, not up.

  • For more info on how to disconnect ZIF connectors, check out the Recognizing & Disconnecting Cable Connectors guide.

Flip up on the WHITE part, facing away from the cable. I sort of struggled with this part, but fortunately didn't do any serious damage.

yuguoxiong - Reply

Image 1/1: '''Use care during reassembly.''' This daughter board is a  very sensitive part. It is easy to fry the digitizer part of this board if connections are made in the wrong order. Complete all other cable connections '''before''' connecting battery power.
  • The daughterboard will now lift easily up and out of the device.

  • Use care during reassembly. This daughter board is a very sensitive part. It is easy to fry the digitizer part of this board if connections are made in the wrong order. Complete all other cable connections before connecting battery power.

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Image 1/1: Make sure to store the seal in a place where it will not get dirty and will retain its stickiness.
  • Use the tweezers to peel the seal sticker off of the center screw that is closest to the battery.

  • Make sure to store the seal in a place where it will not get dirty and will retain its stickiness.

I couldn't get a grasp on the sticker enough to peel it off, so just punched through it with the screwdriver. I don't know the point of removing the sticker, since the warranty is voided anyway by either time or the mere act of disassembly.

yuguoxiong - Reply

the stickers are probably put there for insulating purposes. i have found that discarding them has no bearing on nexus' operation.

Leonard Gorsky -

Image 1/1: Do not pull upwards. Doing so may warp or damage the connector.
  • Using the tweezers, or carefully with your fingers, disconnect the speaker from its motherboard connection by pulling directly sideways.

  • Do not pull upwards. Doing so may warp or damage the connector.

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Image 1/1: For more info on how to disconnect ZIF connectors, check out the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+%26+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s64969|Recognizing & Disconnecting Cable Connectors guide|new_window=true].

The front panel assembly I got from iFixit didn't have this ribbon cable for power and volume, so I had to peel it off the old one. To remove it, work the spudger underneath and gently loosen it from the adhesive. There should be enough residual adhesive to stick it in place on the replacement panel assembly.

yuguoxiong - Reply

your amendments are much appreciated. definitely helpful. THank YOU!

Leonard Gorsky -

I also had to remove the old ribbon cable here. I used a credit card to slide behind the adhesive.

pattylanter - Reply

why in the world that part isnt included is beyond me. MUCH NEEDED COMMENT!!

gocaps25 - Reply

Image 1/1: Using the #0 Philips head screwdriver, remove the five silver 3 mm screws holding the outer edge of the motherboard in place.
  • Using the #0 Philips head screwdriver, remove the three black 2 mm screws holding the inner edge of the motherboard in place.

  • Using the #0 Philips head screwdriver, remove the five silver 3 mm screws holding the outer edge of the motherboard in place.

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Image 1/2: While the camera is connected directly to the motherboard from the bottom and might lift out of the tablet with the motherboard, it also might not. In this case, as shown, you'll need to use the tweezers to pry the camera out of its spot. Image 2/2: Removing the motherboard will reveal the top speaker that was being held down. If you are planning on replacing the top speaker, you may now simply pick it up out of the device.
  • Carefully lift the motherboard up from its edge and remove it from the tablet casing.

  • While the camera is connected directly to the motherboard from the bottom and might lift out of the tablet with the motherboard, it also might not. In this case, as shown, you'll need to use the tweezers to pry the camera out of its spot.

  • Removing the motherboard will reveal the top speaker that was being held down. If you are planning on replacing the top speaker, you may now simply pick it up out of the device.

Careful when comparing to this picture. Actually, the camera which can be seen on the left oh the housing in this picture is connected to the board.

Thomas Isele - Reply

Removing the camera is necessary, as it is impossible (with any tool I have, anyway) to reconnect the camera to the motherboard while it is still in the housing. However, doing so was quite a pain on my machine as it not only did not "lift out of the tablet with the motherboard", but it also was stuck in there so tightly I wondered if it might be glued. I needed to spend several minutes gently prying it out with pliers.

pacmanmaster - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use Phillips #0 screwdriver to remove two screws from either end of the speaker.

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Image 1/1:
  • Carefully lift bottom speaker from the device.

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Image 1/1: Depending on your replacement, you may need to separate the housing frame from the LCD/digitizer.
  • Once you have removed the back cover, battery, daughterboard, motherboard, and speakers, the LCD assembly will remain.

  • Depending on your replacement, you may need to separate the housing frame from the LCD/digitizer.

  • To remove the LCD/digitizer, carefully heat the edge with a heat gun and use a thin blade to separate from the adhesive. Go slowly, and heat often, as the glass cracks very easily. Work around all of the edges and carefully pull the LCD/digitizer from the housing.

how is the frame attached to the LCD panel? I cracked my screen and looking at replacement LCD and digitizer, but I figure that the frame should be removed from the original screen as well

csabaholman - Reply

The frame is attached to the LCD/Digitizer by a layer of double-sided adhesive tape, essentially, or more accurately several pieces of tape. It's very important, once you get to the last step, to HEAT the edges (I used a hairdryer on high) and SLOWLY pry more and more away using proper plastic spudges. I learned the hard way that you can easily shatter the screen if you rush this step. You can still remove all the bits, but it's time consuming, and if you simply accept going slowly, you will actually save time.

Jason Baker -

If you get the front panel assembly part, it is the entire front glass, frame, and LCD panel. Which is good, because I can't imagine having to replace those pieces separately on top of everything else.

yuguoxiong - Reply

I've just separated the frame from the front glass using a domestic hairdryer and a butter knife.

I removed the ribbon cable (peel black sticker from housing, flip black part of ZIF connector, slide ribbon out) the power /volume button thing (tweezers, from connector end, it's stuck on with tape) and gold/silver sticker you can see on photo.

I then covered the middle section on the glass side with electrical tape, anything without plastic underneath and the camera holes. I evenly heated glass side on hottest setting of hairdryer, moving the hairdryer around and slid the knife under the middle sides and corners opposite the camera end. I reheated it a couple of times more. A few bits around the edges stuck to the adhesive, but were easily pulled off with the tape.

Suggest wearing latex gloves and glasses as a few shards flew up, but it was easier and quicker than getting the back of the tablet off!

nikkishaw - Reply

VERY IMPORTANT! Do you see that large orange ribbon cable in the picture. Dont expect to get that from the ifixit replacement part. You will need to remove it and replace it along with that small cable with the adhesive along the side. Both these notes should be in the guide. Also be careful that when you are pulling up that small piece of electrical tape that you dont pull that tiny lock lever off the connection. I managed to reconnect it...but a heads up on this would have been helpful. I would READ all the comments before attempting this repair.

gocaps25 - Reply

Good tip on the orange ribbon cable, it does not typically come with the spare part when purchasing the LCD/Digitizer replacement.

Jason Baker -

this step was a total MOTHERXXcker!!! i would strongly advise just to have the part that has the plastic housing. ok assembly starts now!

Yael Dakar - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Jillian Brown

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This provided a nice overview to replace the front panel assembly, but there were a couple items not covered or that could have been more clear (see my comments on Steps 3, 10, 14, 16, and 18).

yuguoxiong - Reply

Excellent guide. I wasn't confident I could do it but I'm writing this using the new screen now...

Bob - Reply

As far as "Flipping up the White part"....the author HAS clearly included links for this if you are unfamiliar....To me....Very well written!!...and no...I'm not the author, nor do I know him....Nice job!

Craig Robichaud - Reply

Worked for me, thanks very much.

jamesstrowger - Reply

So there is no way to replace just touch screen digitizer separate of still functioning LCD screen in 2nd generation NEXUS 7 released in 2013?

Jaroslaw Solak - Reply

The digitizer and LCD are fused together at the factory with industrial adhesives. While it is theoretically possible to separate them and re-adhere an unbroken digitizer to the LCD screen, in practice this requires specialized tools, and is seldom worth the cost to pay those who do have the tools and expertise, as the repair would cost as much as the device. Replacing the LCD/Digitizer is the most economical, but replacing the entire display assembly including the frame is apparently possible and avoids the step of heating the adhesive tape securing the display unit to the frame.

Jason Baker -

Hello,

Many thanks for the guide. Could you tell if would be a good thing to have a guide with the compatible displays across different devices, tablets, phones ?

Eg. Would be possible to use the nexus 7 display on the Samsung Tab7.0 Plus or the display of the Galaxy tab A 7.0 on the Tab 7.0 Plus? Or would be possible to exchange the tab 7.0 plus display with a better compatible 7.0 inch display from a diferent tablet ?

Thank you,

George

George F. - Reply

Luckily I have a pro standard heat gun. Set to 150oC and gentle blow, the glue releases enough to slide a swiss army knife blade around the edges; the old screen cracks as it comes away .. but it was cracked anyway.

The problem then is fixing the new screen ..it comes pre-glued with strong contact adhesive and there is also glue on the old frame; as soon as it touches, it's stuck. I got mine very slightly off centre and when I tried to push it into place the new screen cracked.

Back to square 1. Worth another £27 for another go? Not sure.

!&&* if this is a 7/10 for repairability, I'm glad I wasn't trying to mend a Microsoft Surface pro!!

Nick Arran - Reply

Good clear instructions here. The hardest part I can confirm was removing the old, damaged screen from the frame. I hadn't realised that the screen was attached to a frame and I had just ordered the replacement LCD digitiser. It was a pure pain in the back side but using a hairdryer I eventually got the old screen off by basically heating and prying all the screen of. It broke into loads of pieces but i just systematically worked my way around the frame. Luckily there was enough glue residue left on the frame to stick the new one in place and its holding well. Back up and running with my excellent NEXUS. Thanks guys for the guide. Invaluable!!!!

Iain McIntyre - Reply

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