Introduction
The residual moisture sensor in Miele dryers is very often implemented using carbon contacts, which wear out over time and have to be replaced. The exchange is not a big problem and should be done prophylactically every 3000 hours. If the machine indicates that the laundry is dry, but the laundry is not dry then this can be a sign that the sensor needs to be replaced. In extreme cases, when the carbon contacts have worn down too much, a regular beating can also be heard.
The instructions will probably also be suitable for some other Miele dryers.
Please read the instructions completely once, as depending on the chosen path, other spare parts or tools are required.
What you need
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The noises that can be heard here arise when the contact carbon brushes have been ground off too much. The brushes should be exchanged much earlier.
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Here is a comparison of new and used carbon contacts. The old contacts were in use for far too long because the plastic in the middle has already worn off.
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As a spare part, you can either replace just the brushes or the complete carrier. The brushes cost about 10 EUR, the complete carrier just over 50 EUR.
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Replacement of complete carrier: I gave 2 part numbers for the carrier, my spare part was packed in a bag with the number 4 490 382, this bag was in a bag with the number 5 153 702. Only one spare part is needed, under which number it is led is somewhat unclear.
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Replacing the carbon brush: The carbon brushes alone should have the part number 6 597 490.
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Use a small screwdriver to remove the white covers on the right and left.
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Completely remove the Torx screws behind these covers.
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The front of the lid should now lift up. It is pivoted on the back and cannot be lifted there. Pull the cover forward at a 45° angle to remove it completely.
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If the cover cannot be lifted, press something into the screw hole with a small screwdriver so that the counterpart is pushed back a little.
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These pictures are only intended to give an overview of what the part to be exchanged looks like.
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A weight is latched onto the boom, under which the cables run. See red mark. The same clip is also on the opposite side.
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The weight is only pushed in at the orange mark. Release both red mark clips and then slide the attachment away from the orange mark.
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The holder of the carbon brushes is only clamped and must be removed.
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The cable connections for the two carbon brushes must be separated with side cutters. Regardless of whether only the brushes or the entire carrier is replaced.
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The recommendation would be to separate where the uninsulated area merges into the insulated area.
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The cable colors can be different on other machines and the cables of the spare part can also have a different color.
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ATTENTION: Please note which cable runs on the right and which on the left side.
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Only carry this step out if only the carbon brushes are to be replaced and not the complete carrier!
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The individual parts are attached to an axle. There is an opening at one end of the axle, the axle is not round but flattened in the opening so that it can be removed in a certain position. Slightly lift the axle on the side, then pull it out.
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When the axle is removed, the carbon brushes can be exchanged, then reassemble the axle.
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Depending on the spare part, it could be that the new cable is a bit thicker than the old cable. Please check carefully whether the new cables fit through the cable guides.
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If the new cables are too thick, the cable guides can be enlarged with a small arrow.
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The carbon brush cables must be reconnected to the cables that remained on the device. Here everyone has to consider which is the best method, depending on the available tool.
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In the following I have taken cable lugs that have to be squeezed onto the cable with pliers.
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Strip the cable and attach cable lugs correctly to the cable ends. Check that the cable lugs are firmly seated.
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When connecting the cable ends, make sure that the cables are not mixed up.
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After the connection is made, the cable lugs must be insulated in case they touch other metallic objects, especially the other connection.
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In the picture you can see that I used insulating tape for electricians, but there are also other options such as cable lugs with insulation, shrink tubing, etc. If the complete carrier is exchanged, there are black boxes that can be brought over the connection. I found this to be unwieldy and did not use it.
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The two running surfaces of the carbon brushes should be cleaned with a little benzine or isopropanol. Simply dampen a cloth and wipe the surfaces. Do not tip the cleaner directly onto the machine. Turn the drum by hand once so that you can reach the entire area.
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Now mount the cover plate again and plug in the mains plug.
Now mount the cover plate again and plug in the mains plug.
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6 Comments
Super beschrieben, habe gestern auch das Klopfen bei unserm Trockner Miele T8861 WP ED 111 festgestellt und nachgesehen was es ist, genau das was du beschreibst, muß die Kohle gewechselt werden. Maschine ist nun 9 Jahre gelaufen da sollte man nicht mekern. Eine Anmerkung noch !!!! Achtung im Netz werden 2 Kohlen zum Preis von dem ganzen halter angeboten AUFPASSEN. Kohle kostet um die 12 Euro und nicht um die 50 Euro
Richtig, der komplette Halter etwas über 50 EUR, Kohlen etwas über 10 EUR. Ich hatte bei ebay beim Händler Eddies-Elektro dieses Satz https://www.ebay.de/itm/352146602025 gekauft. Da mein Plastik abgeschliffen war, war es mir so lieber. Danke für das positive Feedback für die Anleitung, freut mich dass es geholfen hat. @sintra
Anleitung ist sehr verständlich. Nachdem ich mir zusätzlich alles im Trockner angesehen habe, habe ich mir die Kohlebürsten bestellt.
Vielen Dank ast050
Super Diagnose Beschreibung und perfekte Anleitung, um den Trockner innerhalb von 20 Minuten wieder zu reparieren. Danke! Es reicht völlig aus, die Kohlen zu wechseln. Auch wenn der Halter schon erste Schleifspuren hat. Das hat mich jetzt zehn Euro gekostet, anstelle das 100 fache für einen neuen Trockner auszugeben.
