Introduction
Apologies for the state of this guide, it was created in minutes, though I hope it can be of help, please feel free to improve it!
What you need
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The LED should be green when it is connected, here it is completely off.
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The device does not show up at all in the device manager and windows does not react in any way when connected.
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This involves prying and will probably scratch the shell.
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Start at the cable side using a sharp prying tool or similar
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When the lid has been removed, there are two tiny Phillips #0 screws that need to be removed.
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At the side facing down, close to the cable connector there is a fuse (located by the red arrow)
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The blue lines shows the circuit that is usually closed if the fuse hasn't blown.
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Measure the resistance of the fuse, if it is higher than 1000 ohm ( in my case 20 kOhms) consider it to be faulty
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I used a piece of LED - leg and bent it properly to create a perfect short-wire.
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Be careful when you solder, you do not want lead anywhere else!
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I used double sided molding tape (red), in the upper and lower part of the chassi.
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Put the screws back and align the board properly.
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Using glue is an alternative, though troublesome if you would ever want to reopen it.
I don’t know much about debugging circuits, but I checked the connection on the shown locations, and there was no connection, and once soldered it now works perfectly again. Thanks a lot for the guide, you just spared me 30€. <3
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18 Comments
This worked for me, thank you! I must have blown the fuse plugging it into my USB hub port that provides 2.4Amps. Although I never used a short wire, just enough solder to bridge the gap.
What type of fuse is it however? Because now its working but no more fuse, so I’m worried if I plug it into a high amp port again it will fry the device.
Thanks! I would have preferred to replace the fuse, but since I didn’t have a replacement fuse or a setup in which to work on such a small board I just soldered over the blown fuse to short it and it worked.
Worked perfectly. Any wire suffices for this.
hey someone can tell what fuse i need to buy spec thanks :)
the fuse is rated for 250 mA
This worked perfectly for me. Thanks a lot for that great tutorial.
Soldering was a bit difficult but I managed to do it taking my time.
Can anyone explain to me the point of that fuse ? The fuse must be protecting something ? If it’s protecting the receiver by destroying the fuse, what’s exactly the point ? Is fuse replacement supposed to be covered by warranty ?
I guess I don’t understand the whole point of this fuse that is clearly not user replaceable and apparently a fairly common defect.
Just bypassing that fuse works. Thanks so much! My hero!
Thank you so much! Worked for me, did it exactly as you have explained.
Worked like a charm! And it’s really not that hard. However, bear in mind that screws are extremelly small, smaller than tiny, so you’ll need a special screwdriver, because they are also quite tight. Big thanks to THE Author of this method, you saved my day :^)
Thanks for posting this. I have successfully revived my receiver. I just tried soldering over the fuse. My poor soldering skills resulted in the fuse exploding, but regardless of that it still worked.
You're a lifesaver. Turns out these things are impossible to find to buy now, so the only other option was to buy a new controller, instead of using the 5-ish Xbox 360 controllers I still have sitting around collecting dust.
I may have gotten lucky as I kinda globbed solder all over the area but the thing still worked somehow. Thanks a bunch.
I noticed my Microsoft Xbox 360 Wireless Receiver was dead (for no apparent reason), and found this iFixit article. Sure enough this turned out to be the problem. All I did was scrape the fuse off with a small jeweler's screwdriver, and solder across the area where the fuse used to sit. Works like new again. No need to use a wire.
Made it about 12 years ago) still works!
