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Introduction

The camera tie bar mounts the front and rear cameras as well as providing additional mounting support for the right and left speakers. It also connects to the motherboard via a small ribbon cable.

  1. Before you begin, discharge the Surface Pro's battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally damaged during the repair.
    • Before you begin, discharge the Surface Pro's battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally damaged during the repair.

    • The display is strongly glued to the frame of the device.

    • To remove the display, first soften the adhesive by applying heat. You can use a heat pad, heat gun, or iOpener. In a pinch, a hair dryer can also work.

    • Be careful when using a heat gun, as too much heat can permanently damage the display and/or battery.

    • Steadily and evenly heat the perimeter of the display until it's too hot to touch, and try to maintain that temperature for several minutes.

    Also shutdown the device and try to avoid touching the on button - very easy to do - I did towards the end but was still able to shutdown again before going further

    wahr42 - Reply

  2. Use a suction cup or an iSclack to pull up on the glass and create a slight gap between the glass and the metal frame. If your display is badly cracked, a suction cup may not adhere. It may help to first cover the display with a layer of packing tape. Alternatively, you can superglue your suction cup to the display. Insert an opening pick into the gap.
    • Use a suction cup or an iSclack to pull up on the glass and create a slight gap between the glass and the metal frame.

    • If your display is badly cracked, a suction cup may not adhere. It may help to first cover the display with a layer of packing tape. Alternatively, you can superglue your suction cup to the display.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • Slide the pick around the sides and bottom of the display to cut the adhesive. Apply more heat as needed.

    • Work carefully—the glass is thin and will crack easily if you try to force it.

    • Separate the top edge last. There are antennas on both sides, so be careful not to damage them. Use more heat or a bit of isopropyl alcohol to help weaken the adhesive.

    The screen switch out took me over 8 hours of slow, meticulous, work, for this being my first time attempt at such a fix. As suggested here, my broken screen shattered even more despite taking care and taping it to reduce or prevent more shattering which added greatly to the time needed to fix. I found it helpful to work to separate the screen from the adhesive so that the adhesive remained behind and acted as a protective layer for the antennae. Once the glass was off, I went back and removed the glass shards from the adhesive with a plastic spudger and only replaced the adhesive that I had removed adding new adhesive to the gaps which worked well.

    Lauren Alvarado - Reply

    I just couldn’t get this method to work with an unbroken screen. However much I applied heat with a heat gun and heaved on the suction cup, it just wouldn’t move. What did work was applying a more gentle heat and sliding a razor blade along the edge until it was loose enough to get a plastic pick in. I was able to remove the screen intact but unfortunately it was already damaged by the extreme heat I had used to begin with.

    Hugh Coleman - Reply

    I did end up on the wrong side of an antenna, but was still able to separate it from the old screen and firmly stick it back in position, works just as good as before.

    wahr42 - Reply

  3. Pry up the metal shield covering the smaller ribbon cable port using the plastic opening tool. Disconnect the smaller ribbon cable by prying up with the nylon spudger.
    • Pry up the metal shield covering the smaller ribbon cable port using the plastic opening tool.

    • Disconnect the smaller ribbon cable by prying up with the nylon spudger.

    Be very careful here. The ribbon cables are quite fragile.

    Hugh Coleman - Reply

    instead of removing the cables, it saves 2 steps to turn over screen down and just move the bottom edge down, then undo the shields and then carefully lever the small plugs off. then these don’t need to be replugged as well, saving any shorting or connection woes.

    wahr42 - Reply

  4. Pry up the metal shield covering the larger ribbon cable port using the plastic opening tool and remove. Disconnect the larger ribbon cable by prying up with the nylon spudger.
    • Pry up the metal shield covering the larger ribbon cable port using the plastic opening tool and remove.

    • Disconnect the larger ribbon cable by prying up with the nylon spudger.

    There is a small battery logo near the battery on the motherboard , it looks like a battery out of juice logo, you want to short the two parts of the logo together (so that the red led next to it turns off) so that the battery isnt powering the motherboard anylonger so that you dont blow backlight or any other circuts

    aaron stevenson - Reply

    I’d love for this to be true, but I’ve searched very thoroughly and I don’t see it. Checked the Surface Pro 4 and SP6 as well. AFAIK there’s no way to disconnect the battery. Just wasn’t designed to be serviced at all.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s there and it works! Thanks!

    Jay Bremner - Reply

    • Remove the screen from the rest of the device .

    • To replace the adhesive securing the screen, carefully remove any old adhesive from both the device and the back of the display. Clean and prep the surface with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth, swiping the cloth in one direction (not back and forth). Apply a strong double-sided tape, such as 2 mm Tesa 61395.

  5. Pry off the protective metal shield covering the main processor using either the nylon spudger or the plastic opening tool.
    • Pry off the protective metal shield covering the main processor using either the nylon spudger or the plastic opening tool.

  6. Remove the four silver Torx T5 x 3mm screws holding the heat sink onto the main processor.
    • Remove the four silver Torx T5 x 3mm screws holding the heat sink onto the main processor.

  7. Remove the remaining five black Torx T4 x 3mm screws holding down the heat sink assembly. Remove the remaining five black Torx T4 x 3mm screws holding down the heat sink assembly.
    • Remove the remaining five black Torx T4 x 3mm screws holding down the heat sink assembly.

    Wait why is the fan missing all of a sudden?

    Michael Hoadley - Reply

  8. Remove the heat sink from the device by grabbing one of the copper bars with your fingers and lifting straight up.
    • Remove the heat sink from the device by grabbing one of the copper bars with your fingers and lifting straight up.

    • Avoid touching the thermal paste that is on the back of the heat sink and on the front of the CPU. If you get thermal paste on your hands, wash it off with mild soap and water.

  9. Remove the Torx T5 x 6mm screw connecting the black tie bar to the power button/volume control/speaker assembly.
    • Remove the Torx T5 x 6mm screw connecting the black tie bar to the power button/volume control/speaker assembly.

  10. Remove the remaining three Torx T5 x 4.5mm screws holding down the camera tie bar.
    • Remove the remaining three Torx T5 x 4.5mm screws holding down the camera tie bar.

  11. Disconnect the small ribbon cable connecting the camera tie bar to the motherboard by pulling up with tweezers.
    • Disconnect the small ribbon cable connecting the camera tie bar to the motherboard by pulling up with tweezers.

  12. Lift the camera tie bar off of the device.
    • Lift the camera tie bar off of the device.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

One other person completed this guide.

Paul Manzer

Member since: 10/02/2017

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3 Guides authored

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Cal Poly, Team S15-G3, Livingston Fall 2017 Member of Cal Poly, Team S15-G3, Livingston Fall 2017

CPSU-LIVINGSTON-F17S15G3

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2 Comments

Do you really need to remove the heat sink shield and the heat sink to disconnect the tie bar small ribbon cable ?

Tamanaco Francisquez - Reply

round rubber?

MANUEL - Reply

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