This guide will teach you how to safely remove your SSD from you Surface Pro 3. The guide starts by removing the screen and digitizer and then goes right into removing the SSD. This guide does not include details on how to clone the existing memory on your current SSD onto your new one.

  1. Before you begin, discharge the Surface Pro's battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally damaged during the repair.
    • Before you begin, discharge the Surface Pro's battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally damaged during the repair.

    • The display is strongly glued to the frame of the device.

    • To remove the display, first soften the adhesive by applying heat. You can use a heat pad, heat gun, or iOpener. In a pinch, a hair dryer can also work.

      • Be careful when using a heat gun, as too much heat can permanently damage the display and/or battery.

    • Steadily and evenly heat the perimeter of the display until it's too hot to touch, and try to maintain that temperature for several minutes.

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  2. Use a suction cup or an iSclack to pull up on the glass and create a slight gap between the glass and the metal frame.
    • Use a suction cup or an iSclack to pull up on the glass and create a slight gap between the glass and the metal frame.

      • If your display is badly cracked, a suction cup may not adhere. It may help to first cover the display with a layer of packing tape. Alternatively, you can superglue your suction cup to the display.

    • Carefully insert an opening pick into the gap between the screen and the device to cut the adhesive.

    • Slide the pick around the sides and bottom of the display to cut the adhesive. Apply more heat as needed.

      • Work carefully—the glass is thin and will crack easily if you try to force it.

      • The wi-fi antennas are glued under the screen border along the top edge (on either side of the camera), and can be damaged easily. Use extra care when separating the top edge, and apply more heat if necessary.

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    • Continue to heat sections of the screen with the heat gun.

    • As you make your way around the screen with the heat gun, use the plastic opening tool and the opening picks to pry the screen loose.

    • The screen is extremely thin and very easy to break. Be careful working with broken glass.

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    • Lift the screen up carefully so that no wires are torn.

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    • Remove the 3 mm T3 Torx screw securing the battery connector, and disconnect the battery connector.

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    • Remove the single 4 mm T5 Torx screw securing the display cable.

    • Lift the connector up from the device.

    It's always best to disconnect the battery before disconnecting the display cable. Ensuring there is no power to the device will also ensure you don't damage the backlight components when disconnecting the display. You should also make sure to reattach the display cable before reattaching the battery cable when putting it back together.

    KCrepairguy - Reply

    There is also a tiny little board between the ribbon cable and motherboard. Be sure not to lose it!!! If you do the part is 1631 LCD Contact Shield Plate.

    Joseph Neilson - Reply

    You’ll notice a spring on the back of your old screen. The new screens don’t have that spring so it will need to be transferred over by the heat gun trick.

    Thierry Plouchart - Reply

    On mine this was a T3 screw, not a T5.

    Cresny - Reply

    • Grasp the orange cable connected to the silver connecter.

    • Carefully lift the orange cable up until the connecter pops off.

    • The screen will now be completely disconnected.

    • The replacement display may not include all the parts needed for installation. Save all the parts from the original display, and transfer them to the new display as needed.

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    • Remove the two 4 mm T3 Torx screws securing the SSD.

    Small correction - The screws securing the SSD are 4mm T5 Torx.

    Christopher Ibold - Reply

    • Lift up and pull gently on the SSD to remove it from the black connector.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

23 other people completed this guide.

Erik Snyder

Member since: 10/01/2015

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Cal Poly, Team 12-18, Maness Fall 2015 Member of Cal Poly, Team 12-18, Maness Fall 2015


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How do you replace the screen once the glue is melted?

bbhsascha - Reply

would assume you heat and put the screen back...

Assuming you havent shattered the screen to oblivion in the process...

nyalldavis -

Is there a way to copy the files from the ssd card once removed?

Garry Lincoln - Reply

yes, you would need an adapter to connect the msata to regular sata and connect to another computer.

Dan Wooton -

How's does the glass thickness compare to the Surface Pro 2? I've replaced a screen on a 2 without destroying it. Now I'm looking to replace an SSD on a 3. I'm wondering if I can expect the same type of removal.

jwelch414 - Reply

Don’t expect the same removal. the 3 has thin glass, super easy to crack. i wasn’t able to replace mine without damaging the glass.

Tim Rauls -

Couldn't find a replacement hard drive ... my Surface 3 Pro is now toast ...

James Lindbloom - Reply

Shouldn't be hard to find an m.2/mSATA SSD

Steve Moore -

I'm trying to upgrade mine to a 1 terabyte SSD how do I get a copy of my Windows 10 to make sure I have legit OS in the one terabyte hard drive

joshua ruster-mack - Reply

The product key for Windows 10 is coded into the firmware of the Surface. You just need to use Microsoft’s Media Creation Tool ( ) to create bootable media so that you can install it on your Surface.

Brandon -

Does this  SSD  fit directly into a PC with a MOBO that has a M2 SSD connector? Or are the tablet SSD connectors different?

Joel Hall - Reply

The photos in this iFixit guide show that the screen was destroyed while unsticking it!!! There are cracks all over it during insertion of the plastic shims, and the lifted screen is missing large chunks around the edges. Including one great photo of the spudger picking pieces of the glass off the camera. The “parts required” should probably include a new screen at minimum!

Can someone post a *successful* procedure & photos, for opening this without damaging the screen?

Also, “following the instructions in reverse” is clearly not adequate for putting the screen back on - this was obviously Not done with this guide’s broken screen. Are there adhesive strips we can buy, or Acetone/Iso clean & new glue to apply to reattach the screen?

I would love to know from anyone that has actually done this with success! (20 people have apparently followed this procedure?)

Demis John - Reply

Just did this for a client. The glass is unbelievably thin and the adhesive and crazy strong. I made sure to get a written “OK” from him that I would most likely be destroying the screen in the process. He was fine with it as he just needed the data, but I don’t know if it is possible to do this without actually damaging the screen.

If you manage to get the screen off without cracking it, kudos to you, but I would bet that you are also going to have some heat damage just because of how strong the adhesive is. If you look at the photos in step 3 and 4 you can see screen damage from the heat gun near the top-right. Those are now dead pixels.

Christopher Ibold - Reply

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