Introduction

The fuel sending unit works off resistance as a float moves up and down a fragile set of wires inside the float tube that makes up the body of the unit. If your fuel sending unit has damaged lines, a stuck float, etc. you will likely want to remove it to replace it with a good used part, a new part, or to attempt to clean it or repair it. This guide will help you remove the part so you can proceed.

Tools

Parts

No parts required.

Image 1/1:
  • Before being able to proceed you will need to remove the first aid box. This guide does not cover this step, but basically, when you remove the first aid kit you will see several Phillips screws in the bottom of the box. Remove those and the first aid box lifts out.

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Image 1/1: On top of the sending unit is a large black plastic plug for the wiring that goes to the fuel gauge. Start by removing this (not pictured) by pulling straight up on it.
  • With the box out, you will see the top of the sending unit where it screws in to the fuel tank.

  • On top of the sending unit is a large black plastic plug for the wiring that goes to the fuel gauge. Start by removing this (not pictured) by pulling straight up on it.

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Image 1/2: Optionally, you can use a large adjustable wrench or channel locks though when using tools like this there is always the potential for damaging the top of the fuel sending unit. Having the correct size socket is always preferable. Image 2/2: Optionally, you can use a large adjustable wrench or channel locks though when using tools like this there is always the potential for damaging the top of the fuel sending unit. Having the correct size socket is always preferable.
  • Use your large socket (1 and 13/16") and a ratchet to unscrew the fuel sending unit.

  • Optionally, you can use a large adjustable wrench or channel locks though when using tools like this there is always the potential for damaging the top of the fuel sending unit. Having the correct size socket is always preferable.

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Image 1/3: Before removing it all the way, let the fuel in the unit drain out. You should hear it slowly draining as you pull it up. The more fuel that is in your tank the longer it will take to drain the unit. Image 2/3: Once it's drained you can remove it all the way to service it or to proceed at installing your replacement part. Image 3/3: Once it's drained you can remove it all the way to service it or to proceed at installing your replacement part.
  • You can now begin to pull the fuel sending unit out. Do it slowly.

  • Before removing it all the way, let the fuel in the unit drain out. You should hear it slowly draining as you pull it up. The more fuel that is in your tank the longer it will take to drain the unit.

  • Once it's drained you can remove it all the way to service it or to proceed at installing your replacement part.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Nicolas Siemsen

Member since: 12/06/2013

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2 Comments

while soundproofing my 84 300d i removed the box and covered the hole with sheet metal. thanks to you i will be removing the metal and trying to remember if i kept the box. the lid was already missing. good stuff thanks p.s. i think i will weld a 1/2" drive socket onto my 1 13/16" socket. i have extras

Chris Yeyna - Reply

11.2.16

For Diesel cars, the sender often has fungus lurking inside it and it's easy to take apart and clean if *VERY*DELICATE* .

Use some small delicate pliers to pinch the soft plastic surround protecting the special nut and unscrew it then it all comes apart easily .

Work over a clean light colored cloth and use electro - contact cleaner or aerosol starting fluid to clean the funky black fungus ~ you need to get every bit of it out, use a soft toothbrush on the bottom part .

Test easily by tipping the sender up and down with the plug attached and the key on .

-Nate

vwnate1 - Reply

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