Introduction

Brittle, old injector return lines can leave you stranded when they split and leak fuel all over your engine.

You'll need to keep an even closer eye on them if you run biodiesel. If you use 99% biodiesel they may only last a year. Biodiesel literally dissolves rubber!

Learn to replace them now, and keep some spare in your trunk for emergencies.

Image 1/3: And then they stop with a plug at the rearmost injector, closest to the firewall. Image 2/3: And then they stop with a plug at the rearmost injector, closest to the firewall. Image 3/3: And then they stop with a plug at the rearmost injector, closest to the firewall.
  • As shown here, the injector return lines go from one injector to the next.

  • And then they stop with a plug at the rearmost injector, closest to the firewall.

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Image 1/1: These lines were fairly stiff, but not brittle yet. However, it's a good time to replace them. Once they become brittle the can become very hard to remove. They will break off at the nipple and they will need to be cut off with a razor blade, very carefully, to avoid scoring the metal nipples.
  • The lines should simply pull off of the injector nipples.

  • These lines were fairly stiff, but not brittle yet. However, it's a good time to replace them. Once they become brittle the can become very hard to remove. They will break off at the nipple and they will need to be cut off with a razor blade, very carefully, to avoid scoring the metal nipples.

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Image 1/1: As the lines become brittle they seal less well at the nipples due to this.
  • Notice how much larger the opening at the end of the old injector return line, left, is than the one on the right, which is new.

  • As the lines become brittle they seal less well at the nipples due to this.

  • Now, cut a length of new line to approximately the same length as the old line. You can err on the side of being a bit too long to make it easier to install.

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Image 1/2: It can help to do just one at a time, so you don't mix up which line goes where. Image 2/2: Another helpful tip is to use a small needle nose plier to start the line on the injector nipple when the space if too tight for your fingers.
  • Installation is simply the reverse; push the new line down on to the nipples on the injector.

  • It can help to do just one at a time, so you don't mix up which line goes where.

  • Another helpful tip is to use a small needle nose plier to start the line on the injector nipple when the space if too tight for your fingers.

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Image 1/2: It starts here at the front-most injector. Image 2/2: And connects here at the filter housing.
  • Don't forget to replace the long piece of line that runs from the front-most injector to the secondary fuel filter housing.

  • It starts here at the front-most injector.

  • And connects here at the filter housing.

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Image 1/3: The one removed from this car was a braided line with a metal plug in it. Image 2/3: The one being installed is a special rubber plug that only has one opening. Image 3/3: You can also make one yourself, using a short piece of regular return line and a tightly fitting screw that can be securely inserted in one end of the short line.
  • Also, be sure to change the plug on the rear-most injector nipple.

  • The one removed from this car was a braided line with a metal plug in it.

  • The one being installed is a special rubber plug that only has one opening.

  • You can also make one yourself, using a short piece of regular return line and a tightly fitting screw that can be securely inserted in one end of the short line.

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Conclusion

Once you're done priming, start the engine and let it run momentarily to ensure it's primed properly.

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Nicolas Siemsen

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