MacBook power cord 5 pins Magsafe connector and cable Replacement

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A weakness of the MacBook is it's power cord failure after some times. it become a panicking moment when you cannot charge you MacBook anymore. It brick's it! So at the first sing of little orange or green light not showing when plugged, Just replace it!

  • Author: Pierre Merineau
  • Time estimate: 15 - 30 minutes
  • Difficulty: Difficult

In this guide we will change the part of the charger that connect to the computer. you can find this cable on Ebay.

If the broken part is near the transfo, you could easily use the same cord but a bit shorter and you will have to find a way to make a grommet or reuse the old one.

Edit Step 1 5 pins Magsafe connector and cable  ¶ 

Image 1/1: A decent welding pen

Edit Step 1 5 pins Magsafe connector and cable  ¶ 

  • The Tools:

  • A decent welding pen

  • A wire cutter

  • A lead vacuum pump

  • A big heavy duty spudger

  • A pair of snap-ring pliers installed for external snap-ring. Any long nose would do, this is just perfect for the job if you happen to have a pair :-)

  • Super glue

  • 1 or 2 pair of small clamps

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Insert the pliers and pry slowly

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Open the reeling flaps

  • Insert the pliers and pry slowly

  • The flaps will fall

  • Do the same on the other side

  • Slowly!

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Apply decent force

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Finish it by hand

  • Apply decent force

  • At some point it will crack open.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

Image 1/1: You may find the metallic sheeting to break a little, it's ok!

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Carefully remove the inside from the shell

  • You may find the metallic sheeting to break a little, it's ok!

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • I like to insert a big spudger to give room so I can work.

2 Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Image 1/3: I like to start by removing a bit of lead with the pump

2 Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Make sure you note the position of the positive and negative.

  • I like to start by removing a bit of lead with the pump

  • Separate the cables, it may require some force, but be careful not to break the board.

2 Edit Step 7  ¶ 

Image 1/2: I like to bend it 90 degrees to help insertion

2 Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • The replacement cable should come already soldered

  • I like to bend it 90 degrees to help insertion

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

Image 1/1: It will be tight!

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Carefully put back the transfo in the shell

  • It will be tight!

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Place the cable grommet in the proper position

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Put the flappers back in position

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Avoid the flaps areas and the grommet area

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Put some super glue on the cover

  • Avoid the flaps areas and the grommet area

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

Image 1/3: It will be tight, be patient!

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Keeping the flaps in place put the cover on top.

  • It will be tight, be patient!

  • Make sure the flaps stays in place.

  • You might want to wear gloves, since you are manipulating super glue, you might end up with some on your fingers.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Let it rest for the super glue to set

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • I like to finish closing by clamping.

  • Let it rest for the super glue to set

1 Edit Step 14  ¶ 

Image 1/1: The only clue that you made something there is the cleanliness of the cable :-)

1 Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Like new

  • The only clue that you made something there is the cleanliness of the cable :-)


Apply and repeat to all your friends victim of faulty cable ;-)

Now that you've finished, share your repair story with others.

Write a story


This guide was very helpful in figuring out what needed to be done and how to do it. I don't have access to a lead pump so I ended up removing the old wires and then soldering the new ones on top of the remaining solder. So far it's working just fine!

Wildlife Ecology - Reply

I wasn't able to open my charger, even when using heat, the pliars as shown here and even a knife. As the damage to my cable was a few inches from the charger I just cut the cord and soldered a new one to the end. Cable looks a bit ratty but you could use white tubing to place over the top.

This guide is great and would definitely use it if possible =)

Ben Winkler - Reply

Thank you guys.. this guide was super helpful, without this I would have to spend 73 box unnecessarily.

Thanks again..

Lorenzo Cremisi - Reply

My powersafe adapter(a1436) has broken cable and i want to repair it, do you know how many volts out if you connect the multimeter on the black and white cable? I get 9,77v is that correct?

Fotis Karolos - Reply

Great instructions. No solder pump either but so far it is working. $6.50 for parts instead of $40 for a new unit. Thanks very much!

Frederick D - Reply

Great guide thanks, I bought my replacement lead on eBay for £5 and it's now working a treat.

One word of warning though, careful where you stick your fingers as I got a couple of zaps of electricity from something inside (yes it was unplugged :)

If you don't have a solder pump / solder sucker then I recommend you buy one before you start, it'd be tricky to clear out the holes on the board without one.

Andy B - Reply

On the smaller 45W adapters, it is virtually impossible to desolder the white cable because the solder joint is hidden behind a capacitor.

Tip: Pull with some force on the white cable with the pliers, it should come out clean without causing damage. It is not soldered directly onto the board, there is a receptacle in between which you can pull the cable out of. You can use this receptacle to solder or clamp in the new cable, too.

Matthias Huber - Reply

(on the 45W) Be careful not to pull too hard on the white cable/clamp - I managed to rip a piece out of the PCB. Fortunately, I had another power adapter (with the same cable issue) lying around.

One point that is missing from this guide:

Partially remove the copper shielding to gain access to the white cable.

Do it on the side that does not have the capacitor lead soldered to it.

Simply peel off the adhesive tape, remove the tab out of the slot and peel up the shielding (it will look like a tent) to gain some space to access the 'white' solder spot. Be careful not to put too much strain onto the electrolytic capacitor's lead.

redwoood -

you need to solder those new leads to the board - that part seems to be missing here

deanholdren - Reply

Are you talking about the ends of the cable ?

If it is the case, just strip a little bit no longer than 3/16" of an inch ( like 3mm ) you have to make sure it is not too long; you can see at the step 8, there is no room on the other side of the board.

And heat it to apply soldering on it so it looks like the picture, it is easy to insert and it weld solidly.

Pierre Merineau - Reply

Good articel.

I just repaired the power adapter for my friend's MacBook and it's now working perfectly. The case cracking method is inspired! Never would have thought of using a pair of needle nose pliers that way. I hate that cliche about "thinking outside the box" but it truly applies in this case. Thanks.

BTW,this articel is also very usefull.

hewanyv557 - Reply