Introduction

Restore balanced sound to your laptop by replacing the right speaker.

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  • Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery and lift the battery out of the computer.

Before upgrading to a larger HD, you'll want to "clone" your original HD using the donation-ware program "Carbon Copy Cloner" (http://www.bombich.com/). Put the new HD in an external case; clone the original; test the clone (by starting up with it), then take apart the MacBook to put the new HD in the MacBook, and the original in the external case for use as a backup, etc. (You can't just drag the contents of the original HD to the new HD, and expect it to work; not since the days of OS 9 and before.)

amiller770 - Reply

Can I put more than two gigabytes of RAM in?

Noah Nsangou - Reply

mine has 2g*2=4 gb ram in. you should be fine

on mac forum it suggested to put 4gb and a 2gb in a1261.

david -

I made the mistake of wanting to do a clean install of OS and start fresh after installing a SSD. Now I can't install most browsers on OSX Leopard. Does anyone know what is the most current version of OS I can put on this system? (disk or download) Can I get to Snow or Lion?

2006 17" MackBook Pro Model#A1151

2.16 GHz Intel Core Duo

Memory: Two 1GB 667 MHz

Hard Drive: Corsair Force GS: SSD 128GB

scannon - Reply

You can install OS X 10.7 LION and no later version. Although LION runs ok with 2GB RAM it does help to get 1GB + 2GB = 3GB. Even if you install 2 X 4GB you will only utilize 3GB. Installing a SSD seems to make no difference since the SATA bus is only 1.5GB/s. A good 5400rpm disk is good enough. I even run BootCamp and Windows 7. Works fine. Not fast but fine. My A1212 refuses to die :-)

asle -

There seems to be some discrepancy about whether or not installing a SSD will help. See Phil's earlier comment from October 2015: there, *he* claims that having an SSD increases the load times significantly, (even though -- of course -- 1.5Gbps is not ideal)...

His quotation, (re-)cited integrally:

Just replaced my old HD with a Corsair Force LX SSD (which is SATA 1-3 compatible as required by this model) with success now my old 'outdated' laptop has super fast loading times and is postively flying faster than the speed of 'sound'. Thanks for the guide. Only problem I faced was replacing the top panel which after a few minutes of panic realised the rubber mounted Mic next to the left speaker had risen up when I had removed the top panel so after carefully pushing it back into place the panel fitted back how it should, so beware of this possible problem.

Phil - 10/07/2015

at0gjm -

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  • Remove the four identical Phillips 3.4 mm screws from the memory door. These screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.

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  • Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

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  • Remove the three Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch. Apple was nice enough to tilt these screws at a slight angle to make them easier to remove. On the A1261 these screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.

One of the screws here wouldn't bite going back in. I'm 100% certain it's the same screw that came out of it but it wouldn't bite going back, neither would any of the other two in this section in that particular hole.

Damon B - Reply

Image 1/1: Two 14.5 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.
  • Remove the following six screws:

    • Two 14.5 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.

    • Four 3.4 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.

Note for re-assembly: For the hinge use the longest four Phillips screws.

R L - Reply

The Philips screws in Step 5 are longer than the other Philips screws. Would be better if the instructions differentiated them. Otherwise it is possible to use the wrong screws in Step 7 when reassembling.

Alex - Reply

These instructions are actually wrong. The 14.5 mm screws are for along the hinge, the 2 on either side of the RAM slot are about 10 mm.

Andrew Patterson - Reply

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  • Remove the four 3.4 mm Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.

When reassembling, please be careful not to screw into the wrong spot. I accidentally screwed into the DVI port and it was hard to remove the screw after that. I had to disassemble the whole thing again, only to find that I couldn't remove the screw from within as it was encased. After much scraping and prodding with a sewing needle, I was able to get that screw out. Phew!

isotope434 - Reply

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  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.

Screw on the right is shorter

mikefal - Reply

The screws on mine were exactly the same size.

Quote from mikefal:

Screw on the right is shorter

Chris - Reply

What are these two screws called?

ian - Reply

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  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.

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Image 1/1: Lift up the back of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.
  • Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.

  • Lift up the back of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.

WOW this step is very hard!!! its a serious suction cup..

nya - Reply

Once the upper case is free...Carefully tilt the upper case from the front towards the screen as their is a ribbon cable directly beneath the keyboard and trackpad that will need to be removed in the next step.

Troy - Reply

Be very careful not to bend the screw tabs on the top case the perimeter screws attach to. Bending them causes them to quickly fatigue and potentially break off. When reassembling the top case, be sure the tabs are all *inside* the case before reseating it. If you get resistance, pull the case back up, check the tabs and reseat the top case again.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the upper case.
  • Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board.

  • Remove the upper case.

Disconnecting this cable is optional, if instead you tip up the top case ~75 degrees, propping it up with something non-metalic (wedged in or by the battery compartment). Unplugging a connector from the main circuit board always carries slight additional risk.

amiller770 - Reply

It's not really necessary to disconnect the trackboard/keyboard ribbon cable. You can simply lean the upper case against the LCD.

Russ Greene - Reply

how reconnect this cable?

anatole - Reply

I did this with and without step 10 (removing the upper case with detached cable). Removing the cable is risk, putting it back on was not so easy. But then, leaning the keyboard part against the LCD while replacing the hard drive is also risky.

tobybaier - Reply

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  • Disconnect the orange SuperDrive ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

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Image 1/1: Two black 4 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the SuperDrive.
  • Remove the following three screws:

    • Two black 4 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the SuperDrive.

    • One 8.7 mm silver (black in some models) T6 Torx screw at the back of the drive near the speaker.

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Image 1/1: If you have a CD or any other object jammed in your optical drive, we have an [guide|772|optical drive repair guide].
  • Use one hand to pull back the speaker cable and use your other hand to lift the optical drive up and out of the computer.

  • If you have a CD or any other object jammed in your optical drive, we have an optical drive repair guide.

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Image 1/3: The connectors have different positions for the four MacBook Pro revisions covered by this guide, and their locations are highlighted in the three pictures on this step. Image 2/3: The connectors have different positions for the four MacBook Pro revisions covered by this guide, and their locations are highlighted in the three pictures on this step. Image 3/3: The connectors have different positions for the four MacBook Pro revisions covered by this guide, and their locations are highlighted in the three pictures on this step.
  • Disconnect the ten indicated connectors from the logic board.

  • The connectors have different positions for the four MacBook Pro revisions covered by this guide, and their locations are highlighted in the three pictures on this step.

this being one step seems daunting to a first-timer... also, my board looks a little different (macbook pro 17" core 2 duo)

zeroasterisk1 - Reply

Also - no thermal sensor (step 15) on my macbook pro 17" core 2 duo

zeroasterisk1 - Reply

The logic board screws can strip very easily. I had 3 do so using a brand new T6 hand screwdriver.

I was able to get them out eventually by pushing a T7 very hard into the grooves and essentially rocking the screw. What I mean is, just trying to get it to make that crack sound that the screw came loose. Pushing hard down and trying to twist just a little, and repeat. Eventually they all cracked loose and came out.

Good luck and be careful. My MBP is able to play Hulu videos now without overheating and stuttering!

Joe Mattiello - Reply

How to disconnect the connectors? Slide the metal one on the upper left corner out (to the left) with your fingernails or spudger. Pop the black plastic ones out by gently wedging the spudge under from the wire side. Slide the other plastic connectors out with fingernails on each corner in the direction of the wires.

rgwc - Reply

Quote from zeroasterisk1:

Also - no thermal sensor (step 15) on my MacBook Pro 17" core 2 duo

Same with mine - no sensor.

rgwc - Reply

A1261 also does not have the thermal sensor cable. Also, did anyone else notice the unused socket to the right of the RAM?

sudowork - Reply

Image 1/1: If you have the A1261 model, the right thermal sensor cable is located in between the right fan connector and display data cable.
  • Rotate the large display data cable to the left and disconnect the small right thermal sensor cable beneath.

  • If you have the A1261 model, the right thermal sensor cable is located in between the right fan connector and display data cable.

My Model A1212 did not have a thermal sensor cable connected.

James Rybolt - Reply

Image 1/1: Lift the clear plastic shield off the right ambient light sensor.
  • Remove the single black 4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the clear plastic shield over the right ambient light sensor.

  • Lift the clear plastic shield off the right ambient light sensor.

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Image 1/1: If you have a MacBook Pro 17" Model A1229, this is the middle thermal sensor.
  • Peel up the orange Kapton tape securing the left thermal sensor cable to the logic board.

  • If you have a MacBook Pro 17" Model A1229, this is the middle thermal sensor.

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Image 1/1: Seven 6.5 mm T6 Torx screws.
  • Remove the following twelve screws:

    • Seven 6.5 mm T6 Torx screws.

    • Two shanked 7.6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the battery connector to the lower case.

    • Three 7.8 mm T6 Torx screws.

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  • Lift up the left side of the logic board and disconnect the multi-colored power connector from the bottom of the board.

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  • Grasp the logic board at the left side and at the thin section near the right fan, and rotate the logic board out of the lower case.

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Image 1/1: To properly reassemble your MacBook Pro, you'll have to clean off and replace the thermal compound from the three chips on the underside of the logic board. Use our [guide|744|Applying Thermal Paste Guide] to prepare the processor and heat sink surfaces.
  • If the right speaker assembly remains attached to the logic board, hold the logic board with one hand and slide the speaker up slightly to free it from the logic board.

  • To properly reassemble your MacBook Pro, you'll have to clean off and replace the thermal compound from the three chips on the underside of the logic board. Use our Applying Thermal Paste Guide to prepare the processor and heat sink surfaces.

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Image 1/2: The cable with the gray shielding attaches to the left side connector, while the cable with the white shielding attaches to the right side. Image 2/2: For the A1261 model, The cable with the black shielding attaches to the left side connector, while the cable with the blue shielding attaches to the right side.
  • Disconnect the two antenna cables attached to the AirPort Extreme card.

  • The cable with the gray shielding attaches to the left side connector, while the cable with the white shielding attaches to the right side.

  • For the A1261 model, The cable with the black shielding attaches to the left side connector, while the cable with the blue shielding attaches to the right side.

  • If you have a MacBook Pro 17" Model A1229 or A1212, there are three antenna cables attached to the AirPort Extreme card instead of two.

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  • Remove the single black 4.3 mm T6 Torx screw from the top right corner of the AirPort Extreme card.

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  • Lift the AirPort Extreme card up and slide it out of its connector.

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Image 1/1: The magnet in the MagSafe connector may pull the upper screw towards it after the screw has been freed.
  • Remove the two silver T6 Torx screws from the top left 8 mm and bottom right 10 mm corners of the left speaker assembly.

  • The magnet in the MagSafe connector may pull the upper screw towards it after the screw has been freed.

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  • Lift up on the left speaker assembly and rotate it slightly. It is not possible to entirely remove the speaker yet, as it is still connected to the left I/O board beneath.

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Image 1/1: Lift the left speaker out of the upper case.
  • Disconnect the two cables securing the left speaker to the I/O board.

  • Lift the left speaker out of the upper case.

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Image 1/1: Lift the right speaker assembly out of the computer.
  • Disconnect the cable connecting the right speaker to the left I/O board (to the right of the left speaker cables disconnected in the previous step).

  • Lift the right speaker assembly out of the computer.

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  • Use a spudger to pry up the PRAM battery from its housing on the left speaker assembly.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

One other person completed this guide.

iRobot

Member since: 09/24/2009

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