Introduction

Replacing a defective fan is pretty easy and will keep your laptop running cool.

Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery and lift the battery out of the computer.
  • Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery and lift the battery out of the computer.

Before upgrading to a larger HD, you'll want to "clone" your original HD using the donation-ware program "Carbon Copy Cloner" (http://www.bombich.com/). Put the new HD in an external case; clone the original; test the clone (by starting up with it), then take apart the MacBook to put the new HD in the MacBook, and the original in the external case for use as a backup, etc. (You can't just drag the contents of the original HD to the new HD, and expect it to work; not since the days of OS 9 and before.)

amiller770 - Reply

Can I put more than two gigabytes of RAM in?

Noah Nsangou - Reply

mine has 2g*2=4 gb ram in. you should be fine

on mac forum it suggested to put 4gb and a 2gb in a1261.

david -

I made the mistake of wanting to do a clean install of OS and start fresh after installing a SSD. Now I can't install most browsers on OSX Leopard. Does anyone know what is the most current version of OS I can put on this system? (disk or download) Can I get to Snow or Lion?

2006 17" MackBook Pro Model#A1151

2.16 GHz Intel Core Duo

Memory: Two 1GB 667 MHz

Hard Drive: Corsair Force GS: SSD 128GB

scannon - Reply

You can install OS X 10.7 LION and no later version. Although LION runs ok with 2GB RAM it does help to get 1GB + 2GB = 3GB. Even if you install 2 X 4GB you will only utilize 3GB. Installing a SSD seems to make no difference since the SATA bus is only 1.5GB/s. A good 5400rpm disk is good enough. I even run BootCamp and Windows 7. Works fine. Not fast but fine. My A1212 refuses to die :-)

asle -

There seems to be some discrepancy about whether or not installing a SSD will help. See Phil's earlier comment from October 2015: there, *he* claims that having an SSD increases the load times significantly, (even though -- of course -- 1.5Gbps is not ideal)...

His quotation, (re-)cited integrally:

Just replaced my old HD with a Corsair Force LX SSD (which is SATA 1-3 compatible as required by this model) with success now my old 'outdated' laptop has super fast loading times and is postively flying faster than the speed of 'sound'. Thanks for the guide. Only problem I faced was replacing the top panel which after a few minutes of panic realised the rubber mounted Mic next to the left speaker had risen up when I had removed the top panel so after carefully pushing it back into place the panel fitted back how it should, so beware of this possible problem.

Phil - 10/07/2015

at0gjm -

Remove the four identical Phillips 3.4 mm screws from the memory door.  These screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.
  • Remove the four identical Phillips 3.4 mm screws from the memory door. These screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.

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Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.
  • Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

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Remove the three Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch. Apple was nice enough to tilt these screws at a slight angle to make them easier to remove.  On the A1261 these screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.
  • Remove the three Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch. Apple was nice enough to tilt these screws at a slight angle to make them easier to remove. On the A1261 these screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.

One of the screws here wouldn't bite going back in. I'm 100% certain it's the same screw that came out of it but it wouldn't bite going back, neither would any of the other two in this section in that particular hole.

Damon B - Reply

Remove the following six screws:
  • Remove the following six screws:

    • Two 14.5 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.

    • Four 3.4 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.

Note for re-assembly: For the hinge use the longest four Phillips screws.

R L - Reply

The Philips screws in Step 5 are longer than the other Philips screws. Would be better if the instructions differentiated them. Otherwise it is possible to use the wrong screws in Step 7 when reassembling.

Alex - Reply

These instructions are actually wrong. The 14.5 mm screws are for along the hinge, the 2 on either side of the RAM slot are about 10 mm.

Andrew Patterson - Reply

Remove the four 3.4 mm Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.
  • Remove the four 3.4 mm Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.

When reassembling, please be careful not to screw into the wrong spot. I accidentally screwed into the DVI port and it was hard to remove the screw after that. I had to disassemble the whole thing again, only to find that I couldn't remove the screw from within as it was encased. After much scraping and prodding with a sewing needle, I was able to get that screw out. Phew!

isotope434 - Reply

Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.
  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.

Screw on the right is shorter

mikefal - Reply

The screws on mine were exactly the same size.

Quote from mikefal:

Screw on the right is shorter

Chris - Reply

What are these two screws called?

ian - Reply

Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.
  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.

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Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.
  • Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.

  • Lift up the back of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.

WOW this step is very hard!!! its a serious suction cup..

nya - Reply

Once the upper case is free...Carefully tilt the upper case from the front towards the screen as their is a ribbon cable directly beneath the keyboard and trackpad that will need to be removed in the next step.

Troy - Reply

Be very careful not to bend the screw tabs on the top case the perimeter screws attach to. Bending them causes them to quickly fatigue and potentially break off. When reassembling the top case, be sure the tabs are all *inside* the case before reseating it. If you get resistance, pull the case back up, check the tabs and reseat the top case again.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board.
  • Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board.

  • Remove the upper case.

Disconnecting this cable is optional, if instead you tip up the top case ~75 degrees, propping it up with something non-metalic (wedged in or by the battery compartment). Unplugging a connector from the main circuit board always carries slight additional risk.

amiller770 - Reply

It's not really necessary to disconnect the trackboard/keyboard ribbon cable. You can simply lean the upper case against the LCD.

Russ Greene - Reply

how reconnect this cable?

anatole - Reply

I did this with and without step 10 (removing the upper case with detached cable). Removing the cable is risk, putting it back on was not so easy. But then, leaning the keyboard part against the LCD while replacing the hard drive is also risky.

tobybaier - Reply

Disconnect the display data cable and right fan cable from the logic board. If you have a MacBook Pro 17" Model A1229 or A1212, the connectors have different compositions and are highlighted in the second picture.
  • Disconnect the display data cable and right fan cable from the logic board.

  • If you have a MacBook Pro 17" Model A1229 or A1212, the connectors have different compositions and are highlighted in the second picture.

  • For models A1229 and/or A1212, carefully wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the right fan cable to pry it up off its socket. Failure to do so may result in the whole socket coming off the motherboard instead of just the cable.

i'm pretty lost at the moment because when I was trying to disconnect the fan cable from the logic board I've detached it !!! :-(

samuelegottardello - Reply

I have tried to added a warning to Step 11, not sure whether it will show though.

I suggest not to carry out this repair on the A1229 without further instructions. When trying to remove the right fan connector, I broke off the pins from the board since I did not know in which direction to pull, push or slide.

Now the right fan has stopped being noisy, simply because it is no longer connected but that's not the idea of a repair!

Stefan - Reply

this is a difficult step with unclear instructions. if you can, take magnifying glass or lupe and have a good close look at the connectors before trying to remove them.

small connector:

* this has the word PUSH on the top side. this means 'push down to connect' so to disconnect it needs to come straight up.

* the connector housing is divided into two parts - a fixed rectangular housing like a box with the top and one long side missing, and the part attached to the wires which looks like it is divided into two - a small part split into four sections adjacent to the four wires, and the part with the word PUSH on it - but is actually one piece.

* to disconnect you need to get in the tight gap between the two parts and gently pry up. i found it easiest to do each side a little at a time until it pops off. i used a scalpel (probably not advisable) but i have a steady hand and the sharp edge is ideal. be warned, if you slip you will likely damage something so take care.

damian - Reply

large ribbon connector

* this slides out sideways, in the direction of the ribbon. obvious when you know, otherwise it looks like the entire connector is just a single metal piece. there are two tabs which stick out at the sides of the moving part closest to the ribbon. the fixed part of the housing - the metal box - stays put.

* it's very tight, so persevere and just do each side a little at a time, it eventually slides out. i have big hands but managed to get the nails of my thumb and forefinger hooked behind the tabs to ease it out.

damian - Reply

Remove the three silver T6 Torx screws securing the right fan.
  • Remove the three silver T6 Torx screws securing the right fan.

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Lift the right fan and its metal bracket out of the logic board.
  • Lift the right fan and its metal bracket out of the logic board.

When lifting out the right Fan.. carefully remove the black tape from the fan casing and leave the side of the black tape stuck to where the fan sits. It might be wise to carefully vacuum the vent where the fan intakes air so as to prevent dust from clogging up the new fan.

Nick Rodrigue - Reply

second the above comment - the tape should stay attached to the part behind the fan. it's fiddly but the best way.

also, if you want to save yourself 50 dollars and the delivery time just take the fan apart - two screws release the housing and the fan itself just pulls out of its bearing. clean off all the dust, apply a couple of drops of penetrating oil (wd40, kroil etc) to the shaft of the fan and reassemble. good as new.

damian - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

80 other people completed this guide.

iRobot

Member since: 09/24/2009

1 Reputation

726 Guides authored

3 Comments

Easy job, super guide, vacuum the the cooling grill when fan is out, changed both fans, because one fan got very loud, it's a 2007 Mac book Pro, so no reason not to change both, went from 6000 rpm to 3000 rpm, nice, big thanx to ifixit…

jjhomann - Reply

-thanks for the tips and prompt delivery to Canada from ifixit.com...took me 5 minutes. Use a tweezer with one hand as I did in the video ( http://goo.gl/3EZ5N5)

-recommend placing he mac on a soft towel to prevent scratches.

-Use precision screwdrivers (http://goo.gl/qRK4IF)

-use a compressed air canister to clean surrounding areas

Works like a charm now...

SRIBULUSU - Reply

do you know if is it needed to change the black tape, how do i replace it?

where can you find the same tape?

i have done that but the fan is no more sticking to anything.. help!

jacopo - Reply

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