Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery and lift the battery out of the computer.
  • Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery and lift the battery out of the computer.

Before upgrading to a larger HD, you'll want to "clone" your original HD using the donation-ware program "Carbon Copy Cloner" (http://www.bombich.com/). Put the new HD in an external case; clone the original; test the clone (by starting up with it), then take apart the MacBook to put the new HD in the MacBook, and the original in the external case for use as a backup, etc. (You can't just drag the contents of the original HD to the new HD, and expect it to work; not since the days of OS 9 and before.)

amiller770 - Reply

Can I put more than two gigabytes of RAM in?

Noah Nsangou - Reply

mine has 2g*2=4 gb ram in. you should be fine

on mac forum it suggested to put 4gb and a 2gb in a1261.

david -

I made the mistake of wanting to do a clean install of OS and start fresh after installing a SSD. Now I can't install most browsers on OSX Leopard. Does anyone know what is the most current version of OS I can put on this system? (disk or download) Can I get to Snow or Lion?

2006 17" MackBook Pro Model#A1151

2.16 GHz Intel Core Duo

Memory: Two 1GB 667 MHz

Hard Drive: Corsair Force GS: SSD 128GB

scannon - Reply

You can install OS X 10.7 LION and no later version. Although LION runs ok with 2GB RAM it does help to get 1GB + 2GB = 3GB. Even if you install 2 X 4GB you will only utilize 3GB. Installing a SSD seems to make no difference since the SATA bus is only 1.5GB/s. A good 5400rpm disk is good enough. I even run BootCamp and Windows 7. Works fine. Not fast but fine. My A1212 refuses to die :-)

asle -

There seems to be some discrepancy about whether or not installing a SSD will help. See Phil's earlier comment from October 2015: there, *he* claims that having an SSD increases the load times significantly, (even though -- of course -- 1.5Gbps is not ideal)...

His quotation, (re-)cited integrally:

Just replaced my old HD with a Corsair Force LX SSD (which is SATA 1-3 compatible as required by this model) with success now my old 'outdated' laptop has super fast loading times and is postively flying faster than the speed of 'sound'. Thanks for the guide. Only problem I faced was replacing the top panel which after a few minutes of panic realised the rubber mounted Mic next to the left speaker had risen up when I had removed the top panel so after carefully pushing it back into place the panel fitted back how it should, so beware of this possible problem.

Phil - 10/07/2015

at0gjm -

Remove the four identical Phillips 3.4 mm screws from the memory door.  These screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.
  • Remove the four identical Phillips 3.4 mm screws from the memory door. These screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.

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Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.
  • Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

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Remove the three Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch. Apple was nice enough to tilt these screws at a slight angle to make them easier to remove.  On the A1261 these screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.
  • Remove the three Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch. Apple was nice enough to tilt these screws at a slight angle to make them easier to remove. On the A1261 these screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.

One of the screws here wouldn't bite going back in. I'm 100% certain it's the same screw that came out of it but it wouldn't bite going back, neither would any of the other two in this section in that particular hole.

Damon B - Reply

Remove the following six screws:
  • Remove the following six screws:

    • Two 14.5 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.

    • Four 3.4 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.

Note for re-assembly: For the hinge use the longest four Phillips screws.

R L - Reply

The Philips screws in Step 5 are longer than the other Philips screws. Would be better if the instructions differentiated them. Otherwise it is possible to use the wrong screws in Step 7 when reassembling.

Alex - Reply

These instructions are actually wrong. The 14.5 mm screws are for along the hinge, the 2 on either side of the RAM slot are about 10 mm.

Andrew Patterson - Reply

Remove the four 3.4 mm Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.
  • Remove the four 3.4 mm Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.

When reassembling, please be careful not to screw into the wrong spot. I accidentally screwed into the DVI port and it was hard to remove the screw after that. I had to disassemble the whole thing again, only to find that I couldn't remove the screw from within as it was encased. After much scraping and prodding with a sewing needle, I was able to get that screw out. Phew!

isotope434 - Reply

Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.
  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.

Screw on the right is shorter

mikefal - Reply

The screws on mine were exactly the same size.

Quote from mikefal:

Screw on the right is shorter

Chris - Reply

What are these two screws called?

ian - Reply

Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.
  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.

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Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.
  • Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.

  • Lift up the back of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.

WOW this step is very hard!!! its a serious suction cup..

nya - Reply

Once the upper case is free...Carefully tilt the upper case from the front towards the screen as their is a ribbon cable directly beneath the keyboard and trackpad that will need to be removed in the next step.

Troy - Reply

Be very careful not to bend the screw tabs on the top case the perimeter screws attach to. Bending them causes them to quickly fatigue and potentially break off. When reassembling the top case, be sure the tabs are all *inside* the case before reseating it. If you get resistance, pull the case back up, check the tabs and reseat the top case again.

Sheldon Carpenter - Reply

Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board.
  • Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board.

  • Remove the upper case.

Disconnecting this cable is optional, if instead you tip up the top case ~75 degrees, propping it up with something non-metalic (wedged in or by the battery compartment). Unplugging a connector from the main circuit board always carries slight additional risk.

amiller770 - Reply

It's not really necessary to disconnect the trackboard/keyboard ribbon cable. You can simply lean the upper case against the LCD.

Russ Greene - Reply

how reconnect this cable?

anatole - Reply

I did this with and without step 10 (removing the upper case with detached cable). Removing the cable is risk, putting it back on was not so easy. But then, leaning the keyboard part against the LCD while replacing the hard drive is also risky.

tobybaier - Reply

Disconnect the orange SuperDrive ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.
  • Disconnect the orange SuperDrive ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

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Remove the following three screws:
  • Remove the following three screws:

    • Two black 4 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the SuperDrive.

    • One 8.7 mm silver (black in some models) T6 Torx screw at the back of the drive near the speaker.

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Use one hand to pull back the speaker cable and use your other hand to lift the optical drive up and out of the computer.
  • Use one hand to pull back the speaker cable and use your other hand to lift the optical drive up and out of the computer.

  • If you have a CD or any other object jammed in your optical drive, we have an optical drive repair guide.

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Disconnect the ten indicated connectors from the logic board. If you have a MacBook Pro 17" Model A1229 or A1212, the connectors have different positions and are highlighted in the second and third pictures. If you have a MacBook Pro 17" Model A1229 or A1212, the connectors have different positions and are highlighted in the second and third pictures.
  • Disconnect the ten indicated connectors from the logic board.

  • If you have a MacBook Pro 17" Model A1229 or A1212, the connectors have different positions and are highlighted in the second and third pictures.

For model A1229, you have to disconnect the two additional connectors. Both are small with a black and grey cable, like the one in the top middle on the photo.


The first is located between the large display data cable and the fan connector, the second is located near the two connectors marked at the top left of the picture.

Waldbaer - Reply

OK...connectors come out, but they are not going back in easy...is there a special way they get reattached?

David Merritt - Reply

Rotate the large display data cable to the left and disconnect the small right thermal sensor cable beneath.
  • Rotate the large display data cable to the left and disconnect the small right thermal sensor cable beneath.

  • If you have the A1261 model, the right thermal sensor cable is located next to the right fan connector.

Skip step for model A1229

Jordan - Reply

Remove the single black T6 Torx screw securing the clear plastic shield over the right ambient light sensor.
  • Remove the single black T6 Torx screw securing the clear plastic shield over the right ambient light sensor.

  • Lift the clear plastic shield off the right ambient light sensor.

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Peel up the orange Kapton tape securing the right thermal sensor cable to the logic board.
  • Peel up the orange Kapton tape securing the right thermal sensor cable to the logic board.

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Remove the following twelve screws:
  • Remove the following twelve screws:

    • Seven 6.5 mm T6 Torx screws.

    • Two 7.6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the battery connector to the lower case.

    • Three 7.8 mm T6 Torx screws.

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Lift up the left side of the logic board and disconnect the multi-colored power connector from the bottom of the board.
  • Lift up the left side of the logic board and disconnect the multi-colored power connector from the bottom of the board.

i can put board back in but getting the power plugged back in is difficult to see let alone know if it is fully seated.

David Merritt - Reply

Grasp the logic board at the left side and at the thin section near the right fan, and rotate the logic board out of the lower case.
  • Grasp the logic board at the left side and at the thin section near the right fan, and rotate the logic board out of the lower case.

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If the right speaker assembly remains attached to the logic board, hold the logic board with one hand and slide the speaker up slightly to free it from the logic board.
  • If the right speaker assembly remains attached to the logic board, hold the logic board with one hand and slide the speaker up slightly to free it from the logic board.

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Release the tabs on each side of the RAM chip at the same time.  These tabs lock the chip in place and releasing them will cause the chip to "pop" up.
  • Release the tabs on each side of the RAM chip at the same time. These tabs lock the chip in place and releasing them will cause the chip to "pop" up.

  • Pull the chip directly out from its connector.

  • If there are two RAM chips installed, repeat the above procedure for the second chip.

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Disconnect the multi-colored battery connector from the logic board.
  • Disconnect the multi-colored battery connector from the logic board.

  • To properly reassemble your MacBook Pro, you'll have to clean off and replace the thermal compound from the three chips shown here. Use our Applying Thermal Paste Guide to prepare the processor and heat sink surfaces.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

93 other people completed this guide.

iRobot

Member since: 09/24/2009

1 Reputation

726 Guides authored

7 Comments

I haven't tried this (yet). However, one note that might be useful:

Note the heat sink compound on the tops of the CPU, video chip, and whatever the third chip is. You're going to need to clean that off the chips and the mating surface and carefully replace it with new compound. Mac's run hot, so it's important to do this carefully (for better heat conduction.

Buy a good quality thermal grease like "Arctic Silver" or "OCZ Freeze Extreme" (my favorite because its almost as good and easier to use). The instructions assume that you're putting the heat sink down on the CPU, but here you're putting the CPU down on the heat sink, so adjust accordingly.

craigster0 - Reply

Tried that. Rather helpful, but a few suggestions.

Step 18: I would suggest to avoid losen the screws that that fasten the heatsink to the board - unless your intention is to really replace the board or the thermal paste. It is possible to get the board in and out with the heatsink attached, but you may have to remove the fans first. Do not losen the five srews marked red towards the back.

Step 19: the mentioned coloured cable is not always coloured (it is not in my model), do not mistake that cable with the cable to the battery, which is also couloured and also connected to the bottom of the board. It may also be better to remove the left speaker assembly and the WLan card to get to the other end of that cable and disconnect it there.

Andreas Hofmeister - Reply

If I Buy The Whole Logic Board Why Would I Have To Apply Thermal Compound To The Three Chips? The Logic Board Come With It Already Attached Right?? (17" Macbook Pro Model # A1229 Santa Rosa 2.6GHz) Or Did I Missed Something?

Pete - Reply

Would it be possible to replace the logic board of an A1212 with the logic board of an A1261?

David Schembri - Reply

Look at Step 14, the connectors seem to be different, at least at first sight. Why do you want to take that risk, by the way?

Waldbaer -

The logic board's not working, and since it's an old computer I figured I could use this opportunity to upgrade the logic board itself to something that could cope better with today's apps etc. It might also be easier to find a replacement logic board for a more recent model.

David Schembri -

Are there any new logicboards for a Powerbook g4 model a1212 obtainable?

Grtz Charlie

Charlie - Reply

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