MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Subwoofer & Right Speaker Replacement

Replace the subwoofer & right speaker in your Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody.

Is the right side of your MacBook Pro mute? Use this guide to replace the subwoofer & right speaker assembly.

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 7.4 mm Y1 Tri-Wing screws securing the battery to the upper case.

  • Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not remove the battery, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified.

  • You do not necessarily have to follow steps 3-6 to remove the battery in order to replace the hard drive. However it is recommended to remove all power sources from electronics before working on them.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of your finger to carefully peel back the corner of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-Wing screw.

  • Remove the last 7.4 mm Y1 Tri-Wing screw securing the battery to the upper case.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case.

  • Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Tilt the battery away from the logic board enough to access the battery cable connector.

  • Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case.

  • Pull the battery cable connector away from the center of the logic board.

Edit Step 7 Optical Drive  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7 Optical Drive  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the camera cable by pulling its connector away from the socket (toward the optical drive) on the logic board.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector up off the logic board.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth board housing.

  • Carefully rotate the AirPort/Bluetooth board housing (with AirPort/Antenna cables still attached) out of the lower case.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case:

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips screw securing the optical drive bracket to the upper case near the fan.

    • Two 2.5 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case near the optical drive opening.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Lift the optical drive near its connector and pull it away from the upper case to remove it from the computer.

Edit Step 13 Subwoofer & Right Speaker  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13 Subwoofer & Right Speaker  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive/IR sensor cable connector up off the logic board.

  • Peel the hard drive cable up from the channel within the subwoofer and right speaker.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the subwoofer connector straight up off the logic board.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Remove the following six screws securing the subwoofer and right speaker to the upper case:

    • Two 3.2 mm Phillips screws.

    • Two 12.3 mm Phillips screws.

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips screw.

    • One 8.3 mm Phillips screw.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Lift the subwoofer and right speaker assembly out of the upper case.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Before securing the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket to the upper case, be sure the small plastic tab on its left edge is inserted into the small void cut into the black plastic optical drive opening.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Y1 Tri-wing Screwdriver

$7.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Magnetic Project Mat

$19.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

$59.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

Bizarre much?

Will, · Reply

It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

Andrew Janke,

I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

leonie, · Reply

Great advise! Love it! :)

Ririds,

@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

Roger, · Reply

Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

wresnick, · Reply

Hi,

Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

H Stahl,

MacBookPro8,2

Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

Mountain Lion

May someone help me?

I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

Piero, · Reply

Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

- zerø K

zeroK, · Reply

for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy

mindful, · Reply

A 1/16th flathead screwdriver easily removes the tri-wing screws in this step. I could not find a Y0 Tri-wing driver at any local stores.

Jon Daniels, · Reply

I'd like to add that for me, a 1/16th flathead screwdriver did NOT allow me to remove the tri-wing screws holding the battery in place. After several careful attempts, it became obvious I was perilously close to stripping the screw(s), so I abandoned the attempt to unscrew the tri-wing screws with a flathead screwdriver altogether. As it turned out, I didn't need to remove the battery to do what I needed to do (keyboard replacement), but it would have been a whole lot easier had the battery been easily removable.

dave, · Reply

The Tri-wing screw driver is impossible to find in retail, amazon and ebay are great bets but they vary wildly in quality... I ordered two, and both were so cheap, and barely got the job done. It could be worth getting it here. When you do get it, make sure you push, the Y0 screws were very tight in my macbook, pressing hard prevents you from stripping the Y screw.

Abe, · Reply

I believe they are Y1 screws, no?

Mark,

Short of taking out the battery is there something else I can do to protect the motherboard?

Bruce Bell, · Reply

Is removing the battery necessary?

bname, · Reply

It is not strictly necessary. As mentioned above, removing the battery is the only way to be sure that no parts of the logic board are electrified. It is very easy to replace the hard drive without removing the battery, but it is safer to remove the battery first.

Daniel Brauer,

Note: removing the battery can cause a hitch with OS X 10.9 Mavericks installation to a blank drive, or at least it did for me.

Disconnecting the battery makes the hardware clock reset to something like Jan 1, 2000. This causes the Mavericks installer to fail its self-check with the error message: "This copy of the Install OS X Mavericks application can't be verified. It may have been corrupted or tampered with during downloading."

To fix this, you need to open up Terminal from the Utilities menu in the bootable OS X installer environment and use the `date` command to set your Mac's clock back to the correct time before proceeding with the "Install OS X" menu selection, as described here: http://blog.mconserv.net/2013/10/install...

Andrew Janke, · Reply

Thanks for that warning, Andrew.

Max Fenton,

Happened here too, thanks for the tip!

Franco Bianchi,

As a note, my Mid-2010 Unibody Macbook did not have this third screw, just two to remove the battery.

Max Fenton, · Reply

Can anyone answer this question. I cannot afford the entire 80 dollar repair kit listed here and the tools needed only list a spunger t6 and a phillips...it appears from some of these comments there are more drivers needed. I am afraid to do this anyway but not having the right tools off the bat will just make things more difficult while waiting for an order to come in...can someone list the exact tools I would need ? Any help would be appreciated...I am ready to order this but want to put in one order....ifixit, can you clear this up perhaps ?

laurie, · Reply

Answered my own question ... the list at the top of this page is dif from the list when you order the part.....

laurie, · Reply

Taking the battery out is the easiest part once you have the Tri-Wing screwdriver

http://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Y1-Tri...

Tao, · Reply

And yes, taking the battery out does naturally make the hardware clock reset.... It's easily fixed. See Andrew Janke's comment above.

It's a small hassle, compared to needing to possibly replace your logic board because a surge from your battery fried it.

Tao, · Reply

Ne trouvant pas de tournevis Y1, j'ai utilisé avec succès une pince électrique à bouts fins pour déserrer la vis puis j'ai terminé avec un tournevis plat très fin (1.5x35)

Ivan Keller, · Reply

This step is optional. If the cable is to hard to remove, you can just leave it connected and just make sure the cable stays on the side while you remove de optical drive.

Bernak, · Reply

Be extremly carefull while unscrewing these screws. They are made from a more delicate metal than the ones on the outside of the Mac. If You bought the 54 piece set available on Ifixit - be warned - the phillips screwdriver caps do not do the job, and You should have a "shallower" phillips screwdriver here.

michalwoloszanski, · Reply

Hi guys - this is the second last remaining screw (last one is underneath the board housing at the far corner as seen in Step 11) that's in my way before I can remove the CD-drive.

I believe I've used a wrong Philips screwdriver and now the screw itself has lost it's groove.

Problem is - the screw is really tight (first time opening up this particular MBP) - is there a way in which I can "extract"the screw?

Thanks.

theimperialdragon, · Reply

These screws actually use a #000 Phillips bit. The kit for this repair comes with everything you need *except* that. The difference between the two bits is night and day. I'll bet some—maybe even most—people can unscrew them with the included #00 bit, but mine were seated pretty firmly. With work, I got two of the three out. I nearly stripped the last one beyond use before I went out and bought a new bit to try. I'm not sure how to suggest adding that size bit to this guide, but I think that should maybe happen.

When getting back to this step for re-assembly using the dual HD housing, just know that the screws might not actually fit. I found that the heads of the screws were actually too big to fit flush against the housing. So I only used two of the three screws to re-mount. One of them is at a bit of an angle, too.

Overall, I am still happy with this whole setup.

dentondon, · Reply

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