Introduction

Save money by replacing just the LCD rather than the whole display assembly. This guide is not applicable for anti-glare displays.

Image 1/1: Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Three 13.5 mm (14.1 mm) Phillips screws.

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

Bizarre much?

Will - Reply

It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

Andrew Janke -

I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

leonie - Reply

Great advise! Love it! :)

Ririds -

I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

Now I use these:

http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

Richard Sato -

I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

Roscoe -

I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

jelimoore -

Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

maccentric -

I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

Nils -

@Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

Roger - Reply

Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

wresnick - Reply

Hi,

Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

H Stahl -

MacBookPro8,2

Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

Mountain Lion

May someone help me?

I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

Piero - Reply

To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

1982sketcher -

Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

- zerø K

zeroK - Reply

for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy

mindful - Reply

These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

Thanks!

Marcos - Reply

During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

kusi - Reply

There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

Print the repair guide.

Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

Same thing with any part you remove.

splashzoneent - Reply

Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

Tommy Kedar -

Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

nclarke36 -

Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

SOME TRICKS -

1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

cheers- Durango CO!

Dgodrummer - Reply

Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

kevicoll409 - Reply

Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out.

Danno - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the lower case and set it aside.
  • Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

After pulling out the lower case and put it back on, the lower case doesn't stick well with the left clip. What should i do now?

Januar Wiyogo - Reply

Image 1/1: Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not remove the battery, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified.
  • Remove the two 7.4 mm Y1 Tri-Wing screws securing the battery to the upper case.

  • Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard. If you do not remove the battery, please be careful as parts of the motherboard might be electrified.

  • You do not necessarily have to follow steps 3-6 to remove the battery in order to replace the hard drive. However it is recommended to remove all power sources from electronics before working on them.

A 1/16th flathead screwdriver easily removes the tri-wing screws in this step. I could not find a Y0 Tri-wing driver at any local stores.

Jon Daniels - Reply

I'd like to add that for me, a 1/16th flathead screwdriver did NOT allow me to remove the tri-wing screws holding the battery in place. After several careful attempts, it became obvious I was perilously close to stripping the screw(s), so I abandoned the attempt to unscrew the tri-wing screws with a flathead screwdriver altogether. As it turned out, I didn't need to remove the battery to do what I needed to do (keyboard replacement), but it would have been a whole lot easier had the battery been easily removable.

dave - Reply

The Tri-wing screw driver is impossible to find in retail, amazon and ebay are great bets but they vary wildly in quality... I ordered two, and both were so cheap, and barely got the job done. It could be worth getting it here. When you do get it, make sure you push, the Y0 screws were very tight in my macbook, pressing hard prevents you from stripping the Y screw.

Abe - Reply

I believe they are Y1 screws, no?

Mark -

Short of taking out the battery is there something else I can do to protect the motherboard?

Bruce Bell - Reply

What worked for me was actually a set of needlenose pliers - the heads on those screws aren't flush, they actually stick out enough that it's possible to turn them from the outside. Caused some scuff marks on the finish of the screws but it's not like anyone's going to see them anyway!

oboewan42 - Reply

A tri-wing screwdriver sold as 'for Nintendo Wii' marked 'HFA 360/ x50' did the job. I replaced the screws with standard-head M2x6mm metric screws (M2 = 2 mm thread, 6 mm length of threaded part). Exactly, I took them out of an old hard-disk (with torx head and slightly shorter).

akronymus - Reply

It says "Note: For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), removing the battery is not necessary but it prevents any accidental shorting of electronics on the motherboard." This is obviously a boilerplate instruction that is not appropriate for a repair guide.

Well, DO you have to remove the battery? IS this one of those repairs where it's "not necessary but prevents accidental shorting"?

Obviously, this instruction is boilerplate text that accompanies almost all the repair guides-- but there shouldn't be boilerplate text there, since this is a specific guide for replacing the Magsafe DC-in jack and not the harddrive.

skat1140 - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the last 7.4 mm Y1 Tri-Wing screw securing the battery to the upper case.
  • Use the tip of your finger to carefully peel back the corner of the warning label to reveal a hidden Tri-Wing screw.

  • Remove the last 7.4 mm Y1 Tri-Wing screw securing the battery to the upper case.

Is removing the battery necessary?

bname - Reply

It is not strictly necessary. As mentioned above, removing the battery is the only way to be sure that no parts of the logic board are electrified. It is very easy to replace the hard drive without removing the battery, but it is safer to remove the battery first.

Daniel Brauer -

Note: removing the battery can cause a hitch with OS X 10.9 Mavericks installation to a blank drive, or at least it did for me.

Disconnecting the battery makes the hardware clock reset to something like Jan 1, 2000. This causes the Mavericks installer to fail its self-check with the error message: "This copy of the Install OS X Mavericks application can't be verified. It may have been corrupted or tampered with during downloading."

To fix this, you need to open up Terminal from the Utilities menu in the bootable OS X installer environment and use the `date` command to set your Mac's clock back to the correct time before proceeding with the "Install OS X" menu selection, as described here: http://blog.mconserv.net/2013/10/install...

Andrew Janke - Reply

Thanks for that warning, Andrew.

Max Fenton -

Happened here too, thanks for the tip!

Franco Bianchi -

As a note, my Mid-2010 Unibody Macbook did not have this third screw, just two to remove the battery.

Max Fenton - Reply

Can anyone answer this question. I cannot afford the entire 80 dollar repair kit listed here and the tools needed only list a spunger t6 and a phillips...it appears from some of these comments there are more drivers needed. I am afraid to do this anyway but not having the right tools off the bat will just make things more difficult while waiting for an order to come in...can someone list the exact tools I would need ? Any help would be appreciated...I am ready to order this but want to put in one order....ifixit, can you clear this up perhaps ?

laurie - Reply

One of the most important tool you should get is the head strap magnifier with lighting, it will make your viewing and capable ability much more confident.

James -

Answered my own question ... the list at the top of this page is dif from the list when you order the part.....

laurie - Reply

Taking the battery out is the easiest part once you have the Tri-Wing screwdriver

Tri-point Y1 Screwdriver

Tao - Reply

And yes, taking the battery out does naturally make the hardware clock reset.... It's easily fixed. See Andrew Janke's comment above.

It's a small hassle, compared to needing to possibly replace your logic board because a surge from your battery fried it.

Tao - Reply

Ne trouvant pas de tournevis Y1, j'ai utilisé avec succès une pince électrique à bouts fins pour déserrer la vis puis j'ai terminé avec un tournevis plat très fin (1.5x35)

Ivan Keller - Reply

I stripped the Y screw! Arghhhh. Any help ideas?

erinandjoy - Reply

new battery drains at the rate of about 10% a minute. i may have received a faulty one but i wouldn't have bought it if i knew what i know now.

aozoren - Reply

Is this a battery from iFixit?

Scott Dingle -

Is all of this necessary if I am just needing to put a new top to my old bottom?

sherry williams - Reply

Image 1/2: Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet. Image 2/2: Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.
  • Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case.

  • Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case.
  • Tilt the battery away from the logic board enough to access the battery cable connector.

  • Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case.

  • Pull the battery cable connector away from the center of the logic board.

I'm having the same problem as previous commenters: the battery now drains much faster. It's the original factory unit—I only replaced the HD, which is working great.

Is there something I am missing with the battery reconnection? Maybe it's loose?

I just want to make sure before I crack open my laptop again.

cmalec722 - Reply

Fast battery drain problems might be due to a corrupted power manager circuit on the logic board. To reset it, remove the battery, press the power button for about 5-10 seconds, then reinstall the battery. I know the problem might have been partly due to removing the battery in the first place, but this is the procedure for resetting what might have gone wrong. It might also help to do a PRAM reset, by holding down Command-Option-P-R at power (not just from a restart), and let the Macbook chime twice after its initial powerup chime.

johnsawyercjs -

The spudger works well for detaching the connector.

skat1140 - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable up off its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/1: Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the optical drive opening.
  • Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the optical drive opening.

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the three antenna connectors up off the AirPort/Bluetooth board.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: De-route the camera cable from its channel in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing. Image 2/2: De-route the camera cable from its channel in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.
  • De-route all three antenna cables from their channels in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.

  • De-route the camera cable from its channel in the AirPort/Bluetooth housing.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: One 3.8 mm Phillips
  • Remove the following two screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth housing to the upper case:

    • One 3.8 mm Phillips

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips

Add Comment

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

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Image 1/2: Remove the antenna/camera cable retainer from the upper case. Image 2/2: Remove the antenna/camera cable retainer from the upper case.
  • Remove the 8.6 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna/camera cable retainer to the upper case.

  • Remove the antenna/camera cable retainer from the upper case.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.
  • Remove two of the three 6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the right side of the display to the upper case.

  • We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Image 2/3: Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Image 3/3: Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.
  • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case. Image 2/2: Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.
  • Remove the 8.6 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable retainer to the upper case.

  • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.
  • Remove two of the three 6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the left side of the display to the upper case.

  • We purposely have you leave one screw attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: Place your opened MacBook Pro on a table as pictured.
  • Open your MacBook Pro so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

  • Place your opened MacBook Pro on a table as pictured.

  • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T6 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.

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Image 1/1: Remove the last remaining T6 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.
  • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

  • Remove the last remaining T6 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case. Image 2/3: Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught. Image 3/3: Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.
  • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

  • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

  • Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

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Image 1/2: Before starting, be sure to clean the display glass with lint-free cloth moistened with a mild solution; it will make the suction cup adhere better, and will make checking for dust on reassembly easier Image 2/2: With the heat gun set to low, start by heating the outer black border near the upper right corner of the glass panel.
  • In the following steps, you will use a heat gun to soften the adhesive securing the outer black border around the underside of the front glass panel to the display. The area the adhesive is applied to is shown in red in the second picture.

  • Before starting, be sure to clean the display glass with lint-free cloth moistened with a mild solution; it will make the suction cup adhere better, and will make checking for dust on reassembly easier

  • With the heat gun set to low, start by heating the outer black border near the upper right corner of the glass panel.

  • Always aim the heat gun away from the soft rubber strip around the display glass. Heating the rubber will cause it to melt slightly, turning its finish from matte to glossy. Touching overheated rubber can cause it to permanently deform.

  • Due to the heat applied, it is normal for a layer of condensation to develop on the inside of the glass panel and/or the outside of the LCD. It can be removed with glass cleaner once the glass is separated from the display.

Another caution is needed - the heat gun is capable of discoloring the LCD panel (giving uneven coloration) if it overheats. This is possible on the low setting. Proceed cautiously, heating in increments until the glass releases.

Alden Stradling - Reply

I was wondering the same, is absolutely necessary to disassemble the screen to change the glass? Can I jump to step 21?

caholzmann - Reply

To change just the glass I used a hair dryer it gives off enough heat to do the job. Stand the computer up on its cover with the key board standing up.start at a corner heat the adhesive as you go along. I Put credit cards in as I went along so the adhesive doesn't stick again. take your time . Its easy.

Robert Lachman - Reply

  • With the panel sufficiently heated, fasten a heavy-duty suction cup near the upper right corner of the display glass.

  • Don't fasten the suction cup on top of the rubber strip around the edge of the display glass.

  • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

  • Slowly and gently pull the corner of the display glass up off the display assembly.

  • If only the top edge of the glass lifts up (as seen in the third picture), repeat steps one and two until you can lift up the corner of the panel.

Sufficiently heated is a meaningless phrase here. Is it two minutes? Three? Fifteen? An hour? I have tried doing this for increasing amounts of time while avoiding doing damage to the machine, and nothing is working. Sufficient heating needs definition.

Keith McComb - Reply

Hi Keith, the key here is that you want to warm the adhesive that's spread thoroughly behind the masked-black area of the glass around the screen to release, but not put enough heat at the rubber gasket that seals the closed top lid to the base. Too much heat, too soon, will deform the rubber. Too much and you'll never get the glass to release. The 2x that I have done this, however, even with sufficient (and significant) heat, I remember the glass taking a surprising amount of leverage to pull clear. A tactic: using your heat gun warm all the sides of the display from the front, in a circulating/racetrack fashion - about 20 rpm. After 30sec, focus on the left and top sides, seesawing from bottom left, to top left, to top right, and back. Do that at the same pace, about 5-10 passes. Then spend about 10 sec waving over the whole top left corner. That should get enough heat to enough places to help the glass separate to start placing picks, and you can continue to heat the margins as you progress.

johnkimmel - Reply

Image 1/3: Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry up the adhesive securing the front glass to the display. Image 2/3: Pry up the glass panel a few inches away from the upper right corner along the top and right edges of the display. Image 3/3: Pry up the glass panel a few inches away from the upper right corner along the top and right edges of the display.
  • Gently lift the corner of the display glass enough to insert a spudger between it and the display assembly.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry up the adhesive securing the front glass to the display.

  • Pry up the glass panel a few inches away from the upper right corner along the top and right edges of the display.

Be careful with the spudger and the soft rubber strip around the glass. Since the rubber strip has been heated up by the heat gun, it is easily smushed and deformed by the spudger.

robcork - Reply

Be patient and work slowly or else you will crack the glass like me.

BillyRachel1 - Reply

I can not get the glass to come up despite two tries and dicsoloring the LCD with too much heat. Why can't I get the glass to budge at all?

bollucks66 - Reply

It is better , instead of using the suction cup , to use small flat end spudger . The suction cup should be used first to detach the window from the gasket , not furthermore as it may brake the glass.

Thierry de Montblanc - Reply

Image 1/2: Attach a suction cup along the right side of the front glass panel. Image 2/2: Pull up on the glass panel while you use the flat end of a spudger to separate it from the rest of the display assembly.
  • Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the right side of the front glass panel.

  • Attach a suction cup along the right side of the front glass panel.

  • Pull up on the glass panel while you use the flat end of a spudger to separate it from the rest of the display assembly.

  • Continue working along the right edge of the front display glass until it is separated from the display.

  • It may be helpful to use a guitar pick or another thin plastic object to keep the upper right corner of the front glass panel from sticking back down to the display assembly.

If you don't have a guitar pick, playing cards works too.

robcork - Reply

I used old credit cards

Robert Lachman - Reply

Image 1/2: Attach a suction cup near the top edge of the glass display panel and use it to pull the glass panel up off the display. Image 2/2: Work along the top edge of the glass panel, carefully using the flat end of a spudger to separate the adhesive if necessary.
  • Use your heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the top edge of the glass display panel.

  • Attach a suction cup near the top edge of the glass display panel and use it to pull the glass panel up off the display.

  • Work along the top edge of the glass panel, carefully using the flat end of a spudger to separate the adhesive if necessary.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Attach a suction cup near the upper left corner of the glass display panel. Image 2/2: Pull up on the suction cup and use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry the glass display panel out of the display assembly.
  • Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip near the upper left corner of the glass display panel.

  • Attach a suction cup near the upper left corner of the glass display panel.

  • Pull up on the suction cup and use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry the glass display panel out of the display assembly.

  • Once the upper left corner has been separated from the display, it may be helpful to use a guitar pick or another thin plastic object to keep the glass from sticking back down to the display assembly.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Attach a suction cup along the left side of the front glass panel. Image 2/2: Pull up on the glass panel while you use the flat end of a spudger to separate it from the rest of the display assembly.
  • Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the left side of the front glass panel.

  • Attach a suction cup along the left side of the front glass panel.

  • Pull up on the glass panel while you use the flat end of a spudger to separate it from the rest of the display assembly.

  • Continue working along the left edge of the front display glass until it is separated from the display.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: If necessary, use the flat end of a spudger to free the bottom edge of the glass display panel from the display assembly. Image 2/2: Before reassembling, be sure to clean both the inside of the glass display panel and the LCD as any dust or fingerprints trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the machine is on.
  • Now that the top, left, and right edges of the glass are free from the display, slowly lift the top edge of the glass panel and gently rotate it out of the display.

  • If necessary, use the flat end of a spudger to free the bottom edge of the glass display panel from the display assembly.

  • Before reassembling, be sure to clean both the inside of the glass display panel and the LCD as any dust or fingerprints trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the machine is on.

If you will be reusing the glass, with new adhesive, then you will want to remove the old adhesive. This is a bit of a pain, as alcohol doesn't work, and you need to be careful to avoid damaging the black screen border, which is black paint on the back (adhesive) side of the glass.

To remove the adhesive, note that it is actually a thin film with rubber cement on both sides. First, use a razor to carefully pull up one corner of the film and gently peel it off of the glass. If you are gentle and slow, the underlying adhesive may also come off; if not, then rubbing with your finger or a hard rubber eraser will do the trick.

griscom - Reply

what to do when new glass starts to peel after a week ?

labig - Reply

If this is a rubber cement based glue, then would rubber solvent / thinner like N-Heptane help the removal process without damaging the black paint ?

Sandman619 - Reply

Image 1/2: Do not forget to stick the camera bracket down to the new front display glass before reassembly. Image 2/2: Do not forget to stick the camera bracket down to the new front display glass before reassembly.
  • Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool between the display glass and the camera bracket, and run it around the camera bracket to separate it from the display glass.

  • Do not forget to stick the camera bracket down to the new front display glass before reassembly.

This step is only needed if replacing the glass. If you are only replacing the LCD, there is no need to do this step

robcork - Reply

Image 1/3: To reconnect the cable, first use the tip of a spudger to remove the piece of foam tape over the camera cable ZIF socket. Image 2/3: Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the ZIF cable retainer on the camera cable socket. Image 3/3: Insert the camera cable into its socket on the camera board and use the tip of a spudger to snap down the ZIF cable retainer, locking the cable in place.
  • During the glass removal process, the camera cable may stick to the adhesive on the glass panel, disconnecting it from the camera board as the panel is lifted. If your camera cable is still connected to the camera board, skip this step.

  • To reconnect the cable, first use the tip of a spudger to remove the piece of foam tape over the camera cable ZIF socket.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the ZIF cable retainer on the camera cable socket.

  • Insert the camera cable into its socket on the camera board and use the tip of a spudger to snap down the ZIF cable retainer, locking the cable in place.

  • Reapply the piece of tape covering the camera cable socket.

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Image 1/2: The clutch cover will move approximately .25" and stop. Do not force it too far to the right. Image 2/2: When reinstalling the clutch cover, be sure to slip it over the components protruding from the lower edge of the display about .25" to the right of its final installed position on the display.
  • Slide the clutch cover toward the right edge of the display.

  • The clutch cover will move approximately .25" and stop. Do not force it too far to the right.

  • When reinstalling the clutch cover, be sure to slip it over the components protruding from the lower edge of the display about .25" to the right of its final installed position on the display.

Do you necessarily need to remove the glass before you can remove the clutch cover?

aye oh - Reply

Image 1/2: Working from right to left, carefully continue to release and lift the clutch along the lower edge of the display assembly. Image 2/2: Lift the clutch cover up off the front bezel and set it aside.
  • Starting at its far left end, rock the clutch cover along its long axis while pulling it away from the clutch hinge.

  • Working from right to left, carefully continue to release and lift the clutch along the lower edge of the display assembly.

  • Lift the clutch cover up off the front bezel and set it aside.

  • When reinstalling the clutch cover, be sure to widen the opening when slipping it over the small black plastic cosmetic cover that fills the open end of the clutch cover when it is in place. The cosmetic cover has very thin and delicate plastic arms that hold it to the right clutch hinge.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the six 2.9 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD panel to the front bezel.

Hey guys, I need to get the part where the screws are on, whats its name or where could I find it? That part on my Computer broke.... Do you guys think its possible to guet it somewhere?

diegoantegr31 - Reply

Image 1/1: It may be helpful to use one hand to feed the display data cable through its channel in the aluminum display assembly as you pull the LCD toward the top edge of the display with the other hand.
  • Pull the LCD toward the top edge of the display to slide the circuitry along its lower edge out of the recess in the aluminum display assembly.

  • It may be helpful to use one hand to feed the display data cable through its channel in the aluminum display assembly as you pull the LCD toward the top edge of the display with the other hand.

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Image 1/1:
  • Peel the piece of tape covering the display data cable connector away from the edge closest to the LCD.

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Image 1/2: Pull the display data cable straight away from its socket on the LCD. Image 2/2: Lift the LCD out of the display assembly and set it aside.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the thin steel retaining clip securing the display data cable to its socket on the LCD.

  • Pull the display data cable straight away from its socket on the LCD.

  • Lift the LCD out of the display assembly and set it aside.

  • If you are replacing the LVDS/display data cable, simply de-route it from its slot cut into the display casing.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

31 other people completed this guide.

4 Comments

Everything in this guide is simple, except for tearing the glass plate off. I tried with a hairdryer (1200 Watt) first, without success. Then I used a hot air gun (at 400 deg. Celcius, about 750 Fahrenheit). It worked like a charm, but my rubber edge is somewhat shiny, and in one area there's a fingerprint now. Nevertheless, this operation saved me 400 Euros and I'm happy I did it.

arnebakker - Reply

I followed the guide and it worked very well. However, after heating the glass for removal I found the lower right corner to be the easiest. Then I used an old credit card to separate the glass from the frame by sliding it around. The hardest part was installing the new LCD panel and glass because of dirt particles and fingerprints. Great tutorial and guide.

RodriguezAlberto - Reply

For each step in the disassembly process, put the different screws into different shotglasses. Don't leave the screws lying around your desk unless you are a pro.

On a piece of paper, write the step #, and place the shotglass on it. If you have cats who might knock over your shotglasses, label them (the shotglasses, not the cats) using a piece of scotch tape. Then put them where they will not get destroyed by mischievous felines like a roll of toilet paper when you forget to close the bathroom door.

Read all comments in this section; they helped me a lot. DISCLAIMER: I am an idiot, and I confused the shotglasses containing cable restraints. I then spent about an hour trying to figure out where I'd gone wrong before I realized that the restraint in the photo was not the one in my hand. No wonder my father always gives me that look of disappointment when he sees me. Good luck!

Robert Burt - Reply

Thank you ifixit for making this sound easy. I just shattered my display.

fatlard1993 - Reply

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