MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement

Prerequisite Only

Prerequisite Only

Please note that this guide is only a prerequisite for other guides.

Logic Board prereq.

This guide is a prereq only.

Edit Step 1 Logic Board  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the right fan connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 3.4 mm (3.1 mm) T6 Torx screws securing the right fan to the logic board.

  • Lift the right fan out of its opening in the logic board.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Pull the camera cable out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Don't lift upward on the camera cable as you disconnect it. Pulling upward on the cable may damage both the cable and the logic board. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the optical drive connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the hard drive/IR sensor cable from its socket on the logic board by lifting up from beneath its connector.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the subwoofer/right speaker connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Pry up from beneath the wires.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.5 mm ( 1.2 mm ) Phillips screws securing the keyboard/trackpad cable cover to the logic board.

  • Lift the cover off the logic board and set it aside.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery indicator connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are flipping up the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Remove the following nine screws:

    • Seven 3.4 mm ( 3.1 mm) T6 Torx screws on the logic board

    • Two 8 mm T6 Torx screws on the DC-In board

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Carefully lift the logic board assembly from its left side and work it out of the upper case, minding the optical drive cable and the I/O ports that may get caught during removal.

  • If necessary, use the flat end of a spudger to separate the microphone from the upper case.

  • Pull the I/O port side of the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove the logic board assembly.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Early 2011 device page.

Comments Comments are onturn off

Of course, this is not the right fan but the left in the picture.

maccentric, · Reply

Be sure to use the right size screwdriwer, as these screws might be hard to remove. I ended up having to cut the metal cover and bend it away as the screws wouldn't come loose.

That works too however..

dmitri, · Reply

Need a better picture of the zif connector. You lift the lock from the side farthest from the flat cable, and it lifts toward the cable. When reinserting be sure to get the cable all the way or you may have only half the keyboard working.

Jim, · Reply

I could use some advice on reinserting the ZIF cable firmly in its socket. I can get it started, but getting it far enough in to make contact is difficult, given its flexibility. Any tips on manipulating it?

CJ Attias, · Reply

I used a piece of sticky tape that I attached to the ZIF cable, then pulled firmly on the tape (attached to the cable) to get the ZIF cable to seat properly. The tape held to the cable, the ZIF cable seated properly, and the keyboard worked.

robertemcgee,

getting the cable back in was leaps and bounds more difficult than this entire replacement job! be very very careful and note that it goes alllll the way in. i bent the ribbon like crazy, but the keyboard still seems to work fine!

shmianco, · Reply

REINSERTING THIS CABLE WAS ABSOLUTELY THE MOST DIFFICULT STEP IN THIS WHOLE PROCESS!

Key points:

•Make sure that it's inserted evenly. It's tempting to get one edge in, and then the other, but that approach will prevent it from seating properly.

•The cable goes all the way in. There is maybe 1/16" of the little grooves showing, but not much more.

•Once the cable is properly seated, use a piece of tape to pull it all the way in, and keep the tension on the tape as you use a sprudger to flip down the retaining flap.

•It's a fragile connection, and if you break the cable it's a top-case or keyboard replacement, which is either expensive or a PITA, so patience is key.

Kyle, · Reply

It's very easy to do this step incorrectly. Make sure to use your fingernail and pry gently. This was the only step I felt didn't have a great explanation and damaging the part could easily happen.

tgphotosales, · Reply

The metallic flap controlled by the plastic handle looks like it could easily break... a safer route is to grab the shielded cable after rotating the metal flap out of socket and gently pry it out of the socket by applying force parallel to the logic board. It will probably take a few minutes but you could save yourself some gray hairs.

This is the hardest step IMO

brbulic, · Reply

Indeed this s the hardest step.its not clear from the instruction that there are two elements to this component. The connector and also a metal retaining clip that needs to be rotated off the connector first.

mail, · Reply

this was the hardest part of the dismantling for me. it's not super obvious in the pictures that there is a hinge and the metal piece, attached with tape, swings over and towards the DC-in.

shmianco, · Reply

I found it easiest to grab the connector where the hinged metal piece connected to the body.

Replacing this connector was a bit fiddly, as you have to make sure it's lined up exactly before pushing it in, and because pushing it in requires a bit of force.

Kyle, · Reply

I had a little difficulty pulling the motherboard before the battery. I'm not sure why you would want to do it in the order listed here, but doing steps 23 and 24 first helped the board come out easier.

maccentric, · Reply

The thing that caught me on this step was that, at least on mine, the speaker box was glued/taped to the case, and so I got rather nervous trying to remove the logic board as it wouldn't move until said adhesive was pried apart. Thank goodness I knew the difference between the sounds of "board breaking" and "adhesive separating", but this step was still rather harrowing for me.

Joseph Sikorski, · Reply

The microphone cable was easy to pry off the logic board for disassembly. For re-assembly, I was having a heck of a time getting the connector to connect to the logic board. There just isn't enough room to get your hands and tools in there and still see what you're doing (unless you're a dentist and you're used to that kind of thing). Anyway, I finally got brave and pulled the round, rubberized microphone from the case. I connected the short cable to the logic board, set the microphone in the made-for-the-microphone housing on the logic board, hoping it would stick itself back to the case once the logic board was in position, and I was back in business. In this case, simply stating "reverse these steps for reassembly" wasn't very forthcoming.

robk64, · Reply

When I did this step the microphone was REALLY STUCK to the upper case, it actually stayed stuck to it and disconnect "itself" from the mother board while I was lifting up everything.

Finally, there was no damage : I separated the microphone from the upper case while reassembling, then connected it back to the mother board and put it on its housing.

Greg, · Reply

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