Introduction

This guide is a prereq only.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the right fan connector out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the right fan connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

Of course, this is not the right fan but the left in the picture.

maccentric - Reply

Managed to break off a fan connector. Really poor mistake there, as it really is not too hard. Follow exactly like the picture and realize that it lifts up! But good news, I managed to break one of the least important parts and the computer still runs fine!

Sam - Reply

Remove the three 3.4 mm (3.1 mm) T6 Torx screws securing the right fan to the logic board. Lift the right fan out of its opening in the logic board.
  • Remove the three 3.4 mm (3.1 mm) T6 Torx screws securing the right fan to the logic board.

  • Lift the right fan out of its opening in the logic board.

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Pull the camera cable out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Pull the camera cable out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Don't lift upward on the camera cable as you disconnect it. Pulling upward on the cable may damage both the cable and the logic board. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

One can see how to remove the cable in this picture: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

Better than pull is to push it with something like a screwdrive at the small angle left and right.

Alex Nevell - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth connector up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth connector up from its socket on the logic board.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the optical drive connector out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the optical drive connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Mine had a little adhesive strip behind the connector. Pull gently

nicholasmcroberts - Reply

Disconnect the hard drive/IR sensor cable from its socket on the logic board by lifting up from beneath its connector.
  • Disconnect the hard drive/IR sensor cable from its socket on the logic board by lifting up from beneath its connector.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the subwoofer/right speaker connector out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the subwoofer/right speaker connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Pry up from beneath the wires.

Be really, really careful detaching this connector - make sure it's lifted from the cable side. I managed to remove the whole lot from the logic board by accident. On mine it was disguised under a lump of rubber foam.

To replace it, I removed the socket, held it in place against the solder pads and ran a 750degF soldering iron across the pads. It's definitely reattached it, I'm not sure how good the electrical contacts are yet.

afoster - Reply

There is foam on the top of this connector. Do not pry up from under that. Instead, put your spudger underneath the red and black wires themselves and pry up. Very little resistance.

Alex Grayson - Reply

Remove the two 1.5 mm ( 1.2 mm ) Phillips screws securing the keyboard/trackpad cable cover to the logic board. Lift the cover off the logic board and set it aside.
  • Remove the two 1.5 mm ( 1.2 mm ) Phillips screws securing the keyboard/trackpad cable cover to the logic board.

  • Lift the cover off the logic board and set it aside.

Be sure to use the right size screwdriwer, as these screws might be hard to remove. I ended up having to cut the metal cover and bend it away as the screws wouldn't come loose.

That works too however..

dmitri - Reply

I ended up using a #000 phillips screwdriver instead of the #00. I was able to get this piece up without issue.

Dave Bruhn - Reply

I bought ph#00 screwdriver and it doesn't work for all phillips screws. Just buy #000 phillips screwdrive for all phillips screws.

ozhan - Reply

Can I get it work with PH#00?

Utsav Dusad - Reply

I was able to skip this step, along with 16, 17, & 18, and complete the repair successfully. Instead of fully removing the logic board as described in step 22, I lifted the left edge and then wiggled it left until I could lift it from the hinge edge; this gave me plenty of room to see what I was doing while removing and replacing the DC-in board.

Sarah Dunlap - Reply

@Sarah Dunlap. Yes, I did the same, it entirely possible ( although fiddly ) to complete this repair without fully removing the Logic board and instead lifting it out of the way taking care not to put too much tension on the keyboard ribbon cable.

bill borez - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

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Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

Need a better picture of the zif connector. You lift the lock from the side farthest from the flat cable, and it lifts toward the cable. When reinserting be sure to get the cable all the way or you may have only half the keyboard working.

Jim - Reply

I could use some advice on reinserting the ZIF cable firmly in its socket. I can get it started, but getting it far enough in to make contact is difficult, given its flexibility. Any tips on manipulating it?

CJ Attias - Reply

I used a piece of sticky tape that I attached to the ZIF cable, then pulled firmly on the tape (attached to the cable) to get the ZIF cable to seat properly. The tape held to the cable, the ZIF cable seated properly, and the keyboard worked.

robertemcgee -

getting the cable back in was leaps and bounds more difficult than this entire replacement job! be very very careful and note that it goes alllll the way in. i bent the ribbon like crazy, but the keyboard still seems to work fine!

shmianco - Reply

REINSERTING THIS CABLE WAS ABSOLUTELY THE MOST DIFFICULT STEP IN THIS WHOLE PROCESS!

Key points:

•Make sure that it's inserted evenly. It's tempting to get one edge in, and then the other, but that approach will prevent it from seating properly.

•The cable goes all the way in. There is maybe 1/16" of the little grooves showing, but not much more.

•Once the cable is properly seated, use a piece of tape to pull it all the way in, and keep the tension on the tape as you use a sprudger to flip down the retaining flap.

•It's a fragile connection, and if you break the cable it's a top-case or keyboard replacement, which is either expensive or a PITA, so patience is key.

Kyle - Reply

It's very easy to do this step incorrectly. Make sure to use your fingernail and pry gently. This was the only step I felt didn't have a great explanation and damaging the part could easily happen.

tgphotosales - Reply

I messed up and broke the connector. Here is part of a video showing in close-up how to remove it properly (different model Mac, same connector). Wish I had seen it before I tried it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

wizzart - Reply

Thank you for posting that video link. You saved me a lot of frustration!

disneyfunteacher -

Thanks for posting the video. Made it much clearer how to disconnect and save damage!

Gareth Aschenbrenner -

When they say "retaining flap", they are referring to a square plastic clip that hinges to the clip on the board. Starts at 7:15 in the video.

kevicoll409 -

Thanks a lot! Great video

Sean Kandel -

I needed that video. Thanks

Justin Brisotto -

Thank you to everyone who commented about this step. I did not have any trouble doing this but I could have. Also for all the excellent clarification especially the tips on reinserting the ribbon cable which I have yet to do after I hopefully fix the logic board

Peter Newman - Reply

When they say "pull" the cable, they mean to "slide" it. Do not lift and pull.

kevicoll409 - Reply

Attaching a small piece of tape and pulling parallel to motherboard did the trick.

Brian Blair - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery indicator connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery indicator connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

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Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

The metallic flap controlled by the plastic handle looks like it could easily break... a safer route is to grab the shielded cable after rotating the metal flap out of socket and gently pry it out of the socket by applying force parallel to the logic board. It will probably take a few minutes but you could save yourself some gray hairs.

This is the hardest step IMO

brbulic - Reply

Indeed this s the hardest step.its not clear from the instruction that there are two elements to this component. The connector and also a metal retaining clip that needs to be rotated off the connector first.

mail - Reply

this was the hardest part of the dismantling for me. it's not super obvious in the pictures that there is a hinge and the metal piece, attached with tape, swings over and towards the DC-in.

shmianco - Reply

I found it easiest to grab the connector where the hinged metal piece connected to the body.

Replacing this connector was a bit fiddly, as you have to make sure it's lined up exactly before pushing it in, and because pushing it in requires a bit of force.

Kyle - Reply

"Pull the cable straight" means to slide the connector out, do not lift and pull. Also, check for a square locking clip attached to the plug, if it won't come out.

kevicoll409 - Reply

I really advise you to remove the cable retainer (one 8.6 phillips, you can see a photo in the display replacement tutorial) BEFORE unplugging the cable, to have more freedom of movement (to plug it in back it's even more important). Those are REALLY flimsy (i just broke one without being brutal and believe me you don't want to change it).

Bonachera - Reply

I found it helpful to remove the bracket for the display cable to allow more movement of the cable when attempting to reassemble

Justin Brisotto - Reply

Really great site!! replaced a LB in an mid 2010 MBP with kernal panic crash. Fixed! No issues with detailed procedure and comments. So I'll add one for this step. This was the simplest step really. Additional clues. (Wish I could post a pix). Look at the gold conn in the pix above. Note that the cable mates with the conn with the 2 tabs each side showing full insertion. The silver retainer pops up, bar away from the cable. Using my custom tool, a small screw driver, filed really small as I don't have a #000 Phillips, release the retainer, then carefully wedge open the tab on each side, inserting your "tool" in the slot. Neatly and slowly, the conn comes apart. Putting it back together, once the conn is alligned, just push alternately on each tab. Doesn't take much effort, better that pushing on the cable. I also appreciate the comment that removing the clamp, both clamps with one screw actually, makes this easier.

Bruce Rayner - Reply

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are flipping up the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are flipping up the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

Connector slides out, do not lift and pull.

kevicoll409 - Reply

any replacement parts available for this? I pulled up instead of sliding cable :(

Allen Jenkins - Reply

This step would benefit from a macro view of hinged retaining flap and clarification. The instruction about flipping up the hinged retaining flap is misleading people into trying to flip out the ribbon.

Frank Wilson - Reply

Remove the following nine screws:
  • Remove the following nine screws:

    • Seven 3.4 mm ( 3.1 mm) T6 Torx screws on the logic board

    • Two 8 mm T6 Torx screws on the DC-In board

Remove T6 (smaller) screws first, that was the last screwdriver that you used (for smooth workflow).

kevicoll409 - Reply

Carefully lift the logic board assembly from its left side and work it out of the upper case, minding the optical drive cable and the I/O ports that may get caught during removal. If necessary, use the flat end of a spudger to separate the microphone from the upper case. Pull the I/O port side of the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove the logic board assembly.
  • Carefully lift the logic board assembly from its left side and work it out of the upper case, minding the optical drive cable and the I/O ports that may get caught during removal.

  • If necessary, use the flat end of a spudger to separate the microphone from the upper case.

  • Pull the I/O port side of the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove the logic board assembly.

I had a little difficulty pulling the motherboard before the battery. I'm not sure why you would want to do it in the order listed here, but doing steps 23 and 24 first helped the board come out easier.

maccentric - Reply

The thing that caught me on this step was that, at least on mine, the speaker box was glued/taped to the case, and so I got rather nervous trying to remove the logic board as it wouldn't move until said adhesive was pried apart. Thank goodness I knew the difference between the sounds of "board breaking" and "adhesive separating", but this step was still rather harrowing for me.

Joseph Sikorski - Reply

The microphone cable was easy to pry off the logic board for disassembly. For re-assembly, I was having a heck of a time getting the connector to connect to the logic board. There just isn't enough room to get your hands and tools in there and still see what you're doing (unless you're a dentist and you're used to that kind of thing). Anyway, I finally got brave and pulled the round, rubberized microphone from the case. I connected the short cable to the logic board, set the microphone in the made-for-the-microphone housing on the logic board, hoping it would stick itself back to the case once the logic board was in position, and I was back in business. In this case, simply stating "reverse these steps for reassembly" wasn't very forthcoming.

robk64 - Reply

Pulling the microphone off the case is key to reassembling. Place the mic back into the cut-away in the speaker housing and plug the connection into the backside of the logic board

Justin Brisotto -

When I did this step the microphone was REALLY STUCK to the upper case, it actually stayed stuck to it and disconnect "itself" from the mother board while I was lifting up everything.

Finally, there was no damage : I separated the microphone from the upper case while reassembling, then connected it back to the mother board and put it on its housing.

Greg - Reply

Count the number of connectors as you remove the board, so that when you put it back one does not get lost under the board and you can't figure out why it won't go in. You should do this.

kevicoll409 - Reply

If you laptop was getting hot when charging then be extra careful in this step because the foam pad under the logic board my have started to fuse to the casing. If the pad seems stuck then use a knife to gently pry it up.

Jereme Shaver - Reply

I wish I'd read the comment on the items being stuck to the surface below

Mazo - Reply

I have the same case with Joseph Sikorski - it's hard to pull out the mother board because the speaker is glued that I thought their are remaining screws that hook in to it. Better use flat spudger to pry the right side that is stuck when you pull the left upward first.

Auldz Buss - Reply

Repairing a friend’s laptop… I wonder if the “glue” between the speaker and case is actually juice or soda, lol

Sarah Ybarra - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

One other person completed this guide.

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