MacBook Pro 15" Unibody 2.53 GHz Mid 2009 Microphone Replacement

Regain recording functionality by replacing a faulty microphone.

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the lower case and set it aside.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

3 Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

Image 1/1: If you don't have a Pentalobe driver, a 1.5 mm flathead screwdriver can be used in a pinch. Be sure the head of your flathead screwdriver fits snugly across two of the five "points" of the screw head before trying to break the screw free, as a loose fit will easily strip the screw head. If the head of your screwdriver fits too loosely, find a bigger bit and file it down until it fits snugly before proceeding.

3 Edit Step 3 Battery  ¶ 

  • Three Pentalobe screws secure the battery to the upper case. They can be removed with this special driver.

  • If you don't have a Pentalobe driver, a 1.5 mm flathead screwdriver can be used in a pinch. Be sure the head of your flathead screwdriver fits snugly across two of the five "points" of the screw head before trying to break the screw free, as a loose fit will easily strip the screw head. If the head of your screwdriver fits too loosely, find a bigger bit and file it down until it fits snugly before proceeding.

  • You do not necessarily have to follow steps 3-7 to remove the battery in order to replace the hard drive. However, it is recommended to remove all power sources from electronics before working on them.

2 Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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2 Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Remove the two exposed five-point Pentalobe screws along the top edge of the battery.

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to bend back the finger of the "Warning: Do not remove the battery" sticker while you remove the five-point Pentalobe screw hidden underneath.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case.

  • Do not try to completely remove the battery just yet.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Tilt the battery back enough to access the battery cable connector.

  • Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case.

Edit Step 8 Fan  ¶ 

Image 1/3: It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

Edit Step 8 Fan  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the fan cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

  • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the three identical T6 Torx screws securing the fan to the upper case.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Lift the fan out of the upper case.

Edit Step 11 Logic Board  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Hold the end of the cable retainer down with one finger while you use the tip of a spudger to slightly lift the other end and rotate it away from the camera cable connector.

Edit Step 11 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Apple sticks a small strip of clear plastic with adhesive applied to one side to the logic board behind the camera cable connector to keep it in its socket. When moving it out of the way, be sure not to break any surface-mount components off the logic board.

  • Hold the end of the cable retainer down with one finger while you use the tip of a spudger to slightly lift the other end and rotate it away from the camera cable connector.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board, not straight up.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the camera cable by pulling the male end straight away from its socket.

  • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board, not straight up.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive cable connector up off the logic board.

2 Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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2 Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the subwoofer connector straight up off the logic board.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive/IR sensor cable connector up off the logic board.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Lift the cable cover out of the upper case.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips screws securing the cable cover to the logic board.

  • Lift the cable cover out of the upper case.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to pry the trackpad flex ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the keyboard ribbon cable retaining flap.

  • Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Use a spudger to pry the battery indicator ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

Image 1/2: This screw may remain captive in the display data cable ground loop. If replacing the display, be sure to transfer this screw to the new unit.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 7 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable retainer to the upper case.

  • This screw may remain captive in the display data cable ground loop. If replacing the display, be sure to transfer this screw to the new unit.

  • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-in side of the computer.

  • Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.

  • Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board, not straight up from its socket.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the keyboard backlight ribbon cable retaining flap.

  • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Eight 3.5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws:

    • Eight 3.5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • Two T6 Torx screws securing the DC-In board to the upper case.

  • Do not remove the logic board yet! There are connectors attached to the underside of the logic board that must first be disconnected.

3 Edit Step 24  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Do not entirely remove the logic board yet!

3 Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Carefully lift the logic board assembly from the left side and work it out of the upper case, minding the port side that may get caught during removal.

  • Do not entirely remove the logic board yet!

  • Ensure that the logic board is free from all connections to the upper case (except the battery connector) before proceeding.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Slide the logic board away from the port openings and lift the assembly out of the upper case.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Lift the logic board enough to gain clearance and use a spudger to pry the microphone up off the upper case.

  • Slide the logic board away from the port openings and lift the assembly out of the upper case.

  • Before reinstalling the logic board, it is easiest to press the microphone down into its housing in the left speaker to keep it in place.

Edit Step 26 Left Speaker  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26 Left Speaker  ¶ 

  • If present, peel up the tape covering the left speaker connector.

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up off the logic board.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

Image 1/1: If necessary, use a spudger to lift the microphone out of its housing in the left speaker.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws securing the left speaker to the logic board assembly.

  • If necessary, use a spudger to lift the microphone out of its housing in the left speaker.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Lift the left speaker assembly out of the logic board.

Edit Step 30 Microphone  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 30 Microphone  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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10 Comments

It really depends on how thick the 1.5 mm flathead screwdriver is. I tried a low-cost tool and almost destroyed the screw. So be carefull

Paul - Reply

Unfortunately, when I added a second hard drive via these instructions, all went well but Bluetooth is now MIA. Can anyone help?

Peter Payne - Reply

I agree...

I have bought a used MacBook Pro, when problems arise, opening Corps was trying to turn the screw, but with poor quality could not turn a screwdriver, only to ruin the screw. Try to buy ifixit Screwdriver set. Good luck to all and thank you ifixit team for such assistance as ifixit.com. Thank you.

remjok - Reply

The screws holding my battery were all worn out since an earlier removal. So instead of ruining them even more I put some saran wrap on the tip of my pentalobe driver and gently unscrewed them.

magnus - Reply

I have a problem with these screw. They a completly warn and I need some new ones to fix the new Battery.

Does anyone know which thread it is and which length?

alexanderleith - Reply

Be very careful to not get under the connector base on the logic board. You can pull it off. It is only secured by weak surface mount solder.

jimmarsen - Reply

I second that sentiment. The connector base is slightly elevated off the logic board, and it is easy to get your tool under that instead of the male plug you're trying to disconnect. I pulled mine off, and for now the speakers are tinny.

Gruberg - Reply

I,ve done everything up to this step but my logic board still seems to be connected (by glue i think) to the black plastic underneath and the black frame that can't be unscrewed. Any idea how to get past this?

Josh - Reply

For step 24, the same thing happened to me as did to Josh. The heat pipe had bonded with the plastic film which protects the back of the keyboard. By using a spudger i was able to pry at the area where the two were attached. I don't think this is intentional, they just melt together.

Matt -

Same happened to me. Matt is right. I gained extra clearance by removing both RAM modules. Then used the spudger. Sounds cracky but it´s all fine.

Diego Trueba - Reply