Introduction

Use this guide to help you replace a damaged, broken, or faulty right fan.

Note that the right fan is on the right of the machine while you're using it, and on the left while you're working on it.

Remove the following pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
  • Remove the following pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.1 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

anonymous 1286 - Reply

Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

anonymous 1286 - Reply

Removing the screw will void warranty?

Test Application - Reply

Ok, so here is what I discovered. There is no mobile application for these instructions, while having them on a computer is nice but when the computer you have is the one you are changing the battery on these instruction are of no use. I advise coping them and then paste them in PDF and print them out. Or you better have a photographic memory. I’m just saying.

Kenny Kyle - Reply

Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
  • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

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  • The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange).

  • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.

pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

jamiegan835 - Reply

The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

Aaron Freidus - Reply

  • Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.

You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

Aaron Freidus - Reply

  • Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

Lawtay - Reply

@lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board, and bend them up and out of the way.

    • The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

    • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

I seriously hate this step - it is pretty much the only difficult part of the job. Reconnecting these microscopic stinkin connectors is a monumental PITA…

T Rowe - Reply

Guys, be very carefull with these 3 cables.. If you are not going to replace the whole display, just be careful as much as possible.

Adi - Reply

When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)

If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.

Aivar Kavshevich - Reply

I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.

Abhishek Kathuria - Reply

ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…

Antochny - Reply

  • Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

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  • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

  • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

  • On reassembly, there should be enough adhesive still on these cables to stick them back down to the fan.

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  • Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.

why is this needed for upper assembly replacement?

Andrew Chu - Reply

  • Remove the left connector cover.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

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  • Remove the right connector cover.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

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  • Peel the top I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.

  • Remove the cable.

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  • Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

    • One 4.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a wide head

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

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  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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  • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

    • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

  • Remove the fan.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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One Comment

Great tutorial. I did not notice the screw length in the beginning. Thanks. :)

Strange noise came out of my mac. I found a screw on my right fan fell off and got stuck in the right fan.

James Bond - Reply

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