MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2012 Upper Case Assembly Replacement

Replace the Upper Case in your MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2012.

The battery, keyboard, trackpad, and upper case are all stuck together. If you break one of these components, you will need to replace the entire assembly. Follow this guide to do so.

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.0 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

  • Set the lower case aside.

Edit Step 3 Battery Connector  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3 Battery Connector  ¶ 

  • Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

Edit Step 5 AirPort/Camera Cable  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5 AirPort/Camera Cable  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

  • Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.

  • Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

  • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

Edit Step 9 Rubber Hinge Covers  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9 Rubber Hinge Covers  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rubber hinge covers up off the left and right hinges.

Edit Step 10 Display Assembly Screws  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10 Display Assembly Screws  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge covers to the upper case.

  • Remove the two aluminum hinge brackets from the MacBook Pro.

Edit Step 11 I/O Board Cable  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11 I/O Board Cable  ¶ 

  • Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board connector from its socket on the I/O Board.

  • Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.

Edit Step 12 Right Fan  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12 Right Fan  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the right fan cable to free it from the logic board.

  • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.

Edit Step 17 Left Fan  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17 Left Fan  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.

    • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board.

  • Lift the left fan out of the device.

Edit Step 20 SSD  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20 SSD  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 22 I/O Board  ¶ 

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Edit Step 22 I/O Board  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the I/O board data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board.

  • Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.

Edit Step 24 Logic Board Assembly  ¶ 

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Edit Step 24 Logic Board Assembly  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board

  • Be sure to pry on the cable head, and not on the socket itself. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near to the MagSafe 2 connector.

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.8 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 5.2 mm Raised Head T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.5 mm Silver T5 Torx screw

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.

  • Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.

Edit Step 34  ¶ 

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Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.

Edit Step 35 Upper Case Assembly  ¶ 

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Edit Step 35 Upper Case Assembly  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the left rubber hinge cover in place.

  • Slide the hinge cover out of its bezel, then lift it up and out of the device.

  • The screw in the right hinge cover should already have been removed.

  • Slide the right cover out of its bezel, then lift it out of the device.

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

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Edit Step 36  ¶ 

  • Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool underneath the upper microphone.

  • Slide the blade of a plastic opening tool along the bottom of the upper microphone, releasing the adhesive.

  • Be careful when releasing the adhesive holding the cable down, as these cables have been known to tear easily.

  • In a similar manner, release the adhesive underneath the lower microphone.

  • Lift the cable out of the device.

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

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Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.

  • Slide the MagSafe DC-In board towards the right free it from its recess within the upper case.

  • Lift and remove the MagSafe DC-In board out of the upper case assembly.

Edit Step 38  ¶ 

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Edit Step 38  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws securing the headphone jack to the upper case assembly.

  • Slide the headphone jack away from the upper case.

  • Lift and remove the headphone jack out from its recess in the upper case.

Edit Step 39  ¶ 

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Edit Step 39  ¶ 

  • Remove the following three screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

  • Lift the left speaker out of the upper case and set it aside.

Edit Step 40  ¶ 

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Edit Step 40  ¶ 

  • Remove the following three screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

  • Remove the right speaker from the MacBook Pro.

Edit Step 41  ¶ 

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Edit Step 41  ¶ 

  • Remove four out of the six 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display to the upper case.

  • We purposely have you leave two screws attaching the display to the upper case to aid in future steps.

Edit Step 42  ¶ 

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Edit Step 42  ¶ 

  • Open the device between 90 and 100 degrees, then rest it on its side.

  • While supporting both halves of the device with one hand, unscrew the upper 5.3 mm T8 Torx screw.

  • Repeat the same process for the identical bottom screw.

  • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with one hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

Edit Step 43  ¶ 

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Edit Step 43  ¶ 

  • Grip both halves of the device. Firmly put one hand on the top center of the upper case (left) and one in the same place on the display assembly (right).

  • While holding the display assembly in place, slowly push forward on the upper case, releasing it from the display assembly.

Edit Step 44  ¶ 

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Edit Step 44  ¶ 

  • Upper case remains.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2012 device page.

Required Tools

TR8 Torx Security Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T5 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Magnetic Project Mat

$19.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

$59.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

How Can I clean a coffee spill on the retina macbook pro? which alcohol to use to clean the logic board and I/O board? Will I get all the necessary tools to open it in Home Tech toolkit?

Neeraj Saini, · Reply

Please note a T8 Torx Screwdriver is needed in this guide for the display screws.

rfoppen, · Reply

-It would be cool a 3rd party battery manufacturer to make a spare battery without the glue.

-Ony needed to remove the glued one (no prob. if damage it.. it is no good anyway, anymore) and put in place a new one with no glue held in place just by the lack of space inside the case, or some tiny spongy strips to help remove any play.

-The thing is who would manufacture a spare like this.

-Even Apple could supply spares like this.

kriss13, · Reply

I have always turned to iFixIt for repair guides. This particular repair, listed as "difficult," was one that I was apprehensive about undertaking. But I was successful!

I have a brief blog post about it here:

http://www.hightechdad.com/2014/12/22/ho...

And, for those who are going through this guide, I have a LONG (30 minute) video that walks through the repair using the iFixIt guide:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ODfFSMs...

Hope it helps!

-HTD

HighTechDad, · Reply

To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

lantzero, · Reply

In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

Christian Mohr,

The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

Sam Lionheart,

will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

drscottgreenwell, · Reply

Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

cloughenough,

This works for rMBP 2012 late

iyeori,

Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

didierma, · Reply

If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

iyeori, · Reply

Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

Epifanio, · Reply

It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

floyd, · Reply

Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

Emilio Mejia, · Reply

Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

jamiegan835, · Reply

For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

iyeori, · Reply

are the 3 cables identify ?

darryll, · Reply

will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

Oleg Babko, · Reply

If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.

Delta, · Reply

These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

Alvin Chua, · Reply

I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!

is there a way to replace the antenna?

Fabian Schweinfurth, · Reply

unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

Arn Custodio, · Reply

The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

joey, · Reply

I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

Sergey, · Reply

I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

Alvin Chua, · Reply

check if screw marking here is right

night4cat, · Reply

One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?

best regards,

Seth

sethroot, · Reply

This step could use an image showing the cable lock in the "up" position, releasing the connector. It is hard to see how it works in the "down" position. I think this is the actual connector - there are images in the PDF linked here:

http://www.ddknet.co.jp/English/products...

My MBP has an intermittent connection in this keyboard cable. It would be good to know where to buy a replacement!

Rich, · Reply

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