MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2012 SSD Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace the SSD in your MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2012.

Time for a storage upgrade? Possibly your SSD has become tired in its old age? Use this guide to replace the SSD.

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.0 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

  • Set the lower case aside.

Edit Step 3 Battery Connector  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3 Battery Connector  ¶ 

  • Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

Edit Step 5 SSD  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5 SSD  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Slightly lift the leftmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2012 device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

T5 Torx Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Magnetic Project Mat

$19.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

$59.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

Hi people, thanks for this great tutorial! But how and where can I find the replacement of 1TB PSCIe flash drive? I don't know what to type in Amazon for example to try and find exact part :(

Thanks!

johnny8, · Reply

Apple m'a informé que le SSD est soudé dans le rétina. Ce n'est pas notifié dans ce tutoriel...

J'ai un MACBOOK PRO rétina de mi-2012, pouvez-vous m'en dire plus ?

GWENC2964, · Reply

To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

lantzero, · Reply

In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

Christian Mohr,

The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

Sam Lionheart,

will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

drscottgreenwell, · Reply

Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

cloughenough,

This works for rMBP 2012 late

iyeori,

Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

didierma, · Reply

If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

iyeori, · Reply

Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

Epifanio, · Reply

It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

floyd, · Reply

Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

Emilio Mejia, · Reply

Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

jamiegan835, · Reply

I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

This is a "PC" habit.

On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

kriss13, · Reply

For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

iyeori, · Reply

Retirez la seule vis Torx T5 de 3,1 mm, qui fixe le SSD à la carte mère.

Berthier, · Reply

Can this be done for early 2013 macbook pro retina 15"?

Barry, · Reply

This was rather easy, however, I had problems disconnecting the battery and in other forums people were saying you don't actually need to disconnect the battery, so I ended up not disconnecting it which worked great. Be careful not to damage anything when trying to disconnect the battery!

Rafi, · Reply

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