Introduction

Change out the entire display assembly, including the inverter, Airport antennas, hinges and casing.

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  • Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery, and lift the battery out of the computer.

Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process

rpbetancourt - Reply

If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)

Adam - Reply

Quote from Adam:

If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)

Thank you very much!

Evgeniy - Reply

When I did this, I used a empty egg carton to store my screws. I wrote the steps where I removed screens in Sharpie on the bottom of the "egg cup" and then dropped the screws in as I went. Then I just worked backwards to put it all back together.

mark93 - Reply

Quote from rpbetancourt:

Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process

I Generally just use a piece of paper with a rough sketch of the system and locations of the screws with prestik.

Tarn Alcock - Reply

Image 1/1: Make sure to record which sets of screws came from where. This will help when re-assembling.
  • Remove the three identical Phillips screws from the memory door.

  • Make sure to record which sets of screws came from where. This will help when re-assembling.

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  • Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

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  • Remove the two Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch.

Getting these screws in and out is difficult because most screwdrivers are longer then the battery compartment is deep and so will be slightly off plumb. When you go to re-assemble the computer, getting these screws to seat is one of the hardest parts of the re-assembly. It's very important to be gentle and not to strip the threads.The screw should tighten and come to a stop after 3-4 turns. If you turn 6 or more turns and don't feel it grab, then back off and try again, making sure that everything is in alignment.It might be easier to start with the left screw, because it is further away from the latch mechanism.

dalphotography - Reply

Image 1/1: Two 10 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.
  • Remove the following 6 screws:

    • Two 10 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.

    • Four 14.5 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.

A T6 worked but was too small. A T7 was better.

Nelson R Pardee - Reply

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  • Remove the four Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.

Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.

Scott Rose - Reply

by Scott Rose Jan 4 @ 11:12 PM

Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.

To keep this from possibly happening, I placed 2 pieces of tape over the DVI connector pin holes.

rpbetancourt - Reply

Be careful in step 4, these two screws are shorter than the four screws in step 6, dont mix them up!

brendantully1 - Reply

If you still have the DVI to VGA adapter that came with the computer plug it in to the plug and screw it tight, that way you will not put one of the screws into the holes.

netdude21 - Reply

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  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.

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  • Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.

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Image 1/1: Lift up at the rear of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case. This stage can be quite tricky. Over the DVD reader are 4 tabs set back which pull out vertically.
  • Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.

  • Lift up at the rear of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case. This stage can be quite tricky. Over the DVD reader are 4 tabs set back which pull out vertically.

  • Note that the two small tongues on the left hand front of the upper case may bend while you remove the upper case. When re-installing, you may need to bend them back to fit in the grooves in the lower case.

there are 2 push buttons inside the harddrive bay which release the front of the upper case.

mforgie - Reply

this is an annoyingly difficult step. it is VERY hard to get the front part off without bending the unit improperly. Would be great to know where the two "push buttons" are.

lessig - Reply

On my MacBook, there were no pushbuttons. Rather, two mini phillips screws were holding the case on inside the battery bay. The two screws are under two ball-bearing-like nubs that help hold the battery in the bay.

khank - Reply

Quote from khank:

On my MacBook, there were no pushbuttons. Rather, two mini phillips screws were holding the case on inside the battery bay. The two screws are under two ball-bearing-like nubs that help hold the battery in the bay.

I just realized these were the screws mentioned in Step 4, which I missed originally. Did you miss step 4 too?

khank - Reply

I discovered that I didn't need to take the case off completely. I just propped it up with a small screwdriver and was able to remove the airport card and replace it with a new one fairly easily.

schemedream - Reply

That's not so difficult step. you shoul know , that front edge of upper case holding only on 5 plastic "locks" 4 in front edge upon the superdrive, 5-th near the "sleep light, open laptop button"

just lift up the rear edges of upper case to 35-40 degrees

Hofmann78rus - Reply

[I d just say carefule on the prising open - these are fragile screw tab fixings joined to the uppercase. - Patience and gentle pressure and all works fine .

daithid - Reply

Getting the top case off, especially right above the optical drive slot was a @#$%^. !^$%. Was finally able to work it loose by twisting in the budger. Be careful.

Archhawk - Reply

the two push pins are in the battery area behind the front of the open button

mykeylynx - Reply

Quote from Archhawk:

Getting the top case off, especially right above the optical drive slot was a @#$%^. !^$%. Was finally able to work it loose by twisting in the budger. Be careful.

I agree! It was really very difficult just ROCKING the front panel. NOT done! Do not pry it from the front of the unit, as the soft metal edge gets scratched! I turned the unit upside down and slowly pried the keyboard apart left-to-right from INSIDE the Battery Bay, slipping a plastic pen to keep it apart. When I finally looked at what was holding it down, it was these 5 grey&black plastic SNAP slots, and 4 of them were behind the DVD slot.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=40...

Mario da Silva - Reply

I found I had to push with a little force from underneath the battery compartment where the touch pad is located to free the bottom edge of the case. The case came away with two loud snaps. At first I thought I'd broken something, but then it appeared that it was just the plastic above the slot loading super drive that was held in very tightly and needed some encouragement.

Joshua May - Reply

There are several clips along the front of the case in front of trackpad and above the optical drive slot. These need to be gently levered open (eg using an old credit card), and clipped closed on reassembly. Start at the left hand side. Take care not to bend the aluminum top. When reassembling, check the top panel for kinks/bends and straighten by hand before reassembly.

cheongi - Reply

The way I did it was to lift the back to about 45% (the ribbon cable is long enough) and then used the spudger to force the 4 snap tabs in front of the optical drive to separate, working from the right edge towards the middle (they will 'pop'), ending with the last tab to the left of the sleep light.

Hilal Malawi - Reply

After reading all the step 9 comments I was prepared for it to be very difficult. The two bendable tabs on the left front of the case were no bigger than 1/4 inch wide each and caused no trouble taking it off or putting it back on. Lifting the cover off happened before I knew it. I was carefully lifting the cover from side to side and 'poof' it was off and the yellow ribbon attaching between the case and the keyboard was so old and brittle it parted ways without my permission so that took care of step 10 right there but no problem.

Being prepared, reading the guide, printing the guide, taping each screw to the right place on the guide made it all easy. I'm amazed it went so smooth on the first run-through. Thanks iFixit!

Sally - Reply

Image 1/1: Remove the upper case.
  • Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

  • Remove the upper case.

not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..

-urdus.

urdus - Reply

I found that the ribbon connecting the top part of the case to the logic board wasn't long enough and the connector did have to be disconnected.

Joshua May -

Quote from urdus:

not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..

-urdus.

Excellent tip! Thanks, this allowed me to skip steps 10 and 11 (any unnecessary tinkering with the logic board is recommended).

rpbetancourt - Reply

Image 1/1: The white antenna cable connects to the left side of the Airport Extreme card.
  • Disconnect the two antenna cables attached to the Airport Extreme card.

  • The white antenna cable connects to the left side of the Airport Extreme card.

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  • Deroute the Airport antenna cables from their channel in the left speaker.

These were hard for me to get back on.

mowzer11surf - Reply

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  • Disconnect the iSight, inverter, and left fan cables from the logic board by gently pulling in the direction of each cable.

The ISight inverter did now want to come out. The grey cloth on top pulled off.

mowzer11surf - Reply

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  • Disconnect the display data cable from the logic board.

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  • Remove the silver T6 Torx screw securing the ground loop on the display data cable to the casing.

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Image 1/1: Two 9.5 mm silver T6 Torx screws with threads on only part of the shaft on the inside of the display hinges.
  • Support the display with one hand while removing the following 3 screws:

    • Two 9.5 mm silver T6 Torx screws with threads on only part of the shaft on the inside of the display hinges.

    • One 9.5 mm silver T6 Torx screw with threads on the entire shaft on the outside of the left hinge.

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  • Grasp the display assembly on both sides and lift it up and out of the computer.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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