MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 Logic Board Replacement

Replace a fried logic board on your Early 2011 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody.

Use this guide to completely replace the logic board.

Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Lower Case  ¶ 

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

  • Remove the lower case.

Edit Step 3 Battery Connection  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3 Battery Connection  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

Edit Step 5 Fan  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5 Fan  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a spudger to gently pry the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

  • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the logic board:

    • One 7.2 mm T6 Torx screw

    • Two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Lift the fan out of its recess in the logic board, minding its cable that may get caught.

Edit Step 8 Logic Board  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case.

  • Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.

  • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Pulling the cable upward may damage the logic board or the cable itself.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the following four cables:

    • AirPort/Bluetooth cable

    • Optical drive cable

    • Hard drive cable

    • Trackpad cable

  • To disconnect the cables, use the flat end of a spudger to pry their connectors up from the sockets on the logic board.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Edit Step 16  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16  ¶ 

  • Remove the following nine screws:

    • Five 3.6 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 4.3 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 7.2 mm T6 Torx screws

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 5.5 mm Phillips screw

  • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.

  • Without flexing the board, maneuver it out of the upper case, minding the flexible connection to the DC-In board that may get caught in the upper case.

  • Remove the logic board.

Edit Step 20 Left Speaker  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20 Left Speaker  ¶ 

  • De-route the microphone cable from its slot molded into the left speaker enclosure.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Remove the small piece of black tape covering the left speaker connector.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pry up from beneath the wires.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Carefully pry the left speaker off the foam adhesive securing it to the logic board.

  • Remove the left speaker.

Edit Step 24 Logic Board  ¶ 

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Edit Step 24 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Remove the piece of black tape covering the microphone connector.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

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Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Pull the microphone cable upward to lift its connector out of the socket on the logic board.

  • Remove the microphone.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Pull the MagSafe DC-In board cable toward the heat sink to disconnect it from the logic board.

  • Remove the DC-In board.

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Remove the three 8.4 mm #1 Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

  • Don't lose the springs held under each of the screws.

  • Carefully remove the heat sink from the processor.

  • If the heat sink seems to be stuck, it may be helpful to gently pry it off the processor with a plastic spudger. Be careful not to break any surface mount components on the processor while prying.

  • Be sure to clean off the old thermal paste and apply a new layer before you reinstall the heat sink. We have a guide that makes it easy.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Pull the two RAM retaining arms away from the center of the RAM chip.

  • The RAM chip should "pop" up slightly from its socket.

  • Pull the RAM stick out of its socket.

  • Repeat this process to remove the second RAM chip.

  • Logic board remains.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Early 2011 device page.

Required Tools

Arctic Silver ArctiClean

$7.95 · 50+ In stock

Arctic Silver Thermal Paste

$8.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #1 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Phillips #00 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Magnetic Project Mat

$19.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

$59.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

it doesn't matter if my logic board have other serial number, if itrs de same year and same GHZ?

jaime, · Reply

Does void the warranty?

jfondeur, · Reply

No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically: http://eshop.macsales.com/Search/display...

oakdragon12, · Reply

How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

gunes314, · Reply

Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?

Carlos Duarte do Nascimento, · Reply

I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.

John Adam Wickliffe, · Reply

Hey guys,

this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!

I posted some pictures on your facebook page..

renatumb, · Reply

Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

Robert Wacker, · Reply

Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.

kschmesk, · Reply

I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?

Alex, · Reply

The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch

. Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard

I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one

brian whittle, · Reply

Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

manodh, · Reply

yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

khull,

This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.

Steven Layton, · Reply

My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!

Diego Hernandes,

Rather than be careful of the corners of the connector i would say don't use the spudger anywhere near the corners. While the corner looks like the obvious place to begin to pry it up from, it will break. Levering from the sides as the instructions suggest works well.

ausmkv, · Reply

wonder why apple does not recommend it?!

Peter, · Reply

I would recommend it, one careless short and the whole board is dead......

John, · Reply

simply remove the battery rather than disconnecting the cable

toiu, · Reply

Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...

fasthans, · Reply

What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore

Diego Hernandes, · Reply

The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).

The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.

One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.

Great guides. Thanks!

timgunkel, · Reply

Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.

Sal Ergrapes, · Reply

These are T5 screws

dbell316, · Reply

I think so too, (maybe on a certain batch?) tried a T6 and its too big

billytalentlovexo,

No they are T6

tweakland, · Reply

Nope just tried a T6 and its too big, don't have a T5 but it's gotta be one

billytalentlovexo,

The camera cable head has bump at both sides. Just use two spudgers to pry it out.

townbull, · Reply

Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks

Derek Cowan, · Reply

I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.

David, · Reply

David, thank you so much for the tape suggestion! A little Scotch tape just ended 15 minutes of eyes-widening frustration. :)

simolinic, · Reply

if the zif socket got fried which parts must be replaced?

Jacob, · Reply

2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.

starf1970, · Reply

2 of the 7 (the two red ones on the right side in the image) seem really hard to remove. Is there something I'm missing, or do I just need to try harder?

rubenwiersma, · Reply

I am stuck here. When I lift the logic board, it doesn't come out. I don't want to force it out by fear of breaking it. Please help

Jean F, · Reply

I had the same issue. After wiggling the logic board back and forth and slowly applying more force, just up the threshold where I felt uncomfortable, it came out. The problem appeared to be caused by glue on the heatsink barcode sticking to the layer underneath.

Shaun, · Reply

Same experience here. I used a longish spudger slipped under the logic board to carefully separate the black backlight shield from the underside of the logic board. I suspect the processor and/or the GPU sticks the two together. Be careful and patient separating the backlight shiled...it is delicate..go slow and use minimal force...

fasthans, · Reply

It is heat not glue that caused the sticking...

fasthans, · Reply

Need to remove the heat sink for the GPU as well.

Albert, · Reply

Are there only 2 springs?

Egor Kalachev, · Reply

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