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MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Mid 2014 I/O Board Replacement

Written By: Sam Goldheart (and 4 other contributors)
  • Comments: 67
  • Favorites: 4
  • Completions: 14

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

23

Time Required

45 minutes - 2 hours

Sections

5

Flags

0

Introduction

Replace the I/O board, which includes the SD card slot, the HDMI port and the right USB port.

This guide requires the removal of the heat sink. Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.

  1. Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
    Tool used on this step:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.99

    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    Edit

  2. Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

    Edit

  3. The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    Edit

  4. If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

    • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

    Edit

  5. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

    Edit

  6. Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

    • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

    Edit

  7. Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.

    • Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink.

    • The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.

    Edit

  8. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws. Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.

    Edit

  10. Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board:

    • Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board:

    • Four 2.6 mm T5 screws

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips #000 screw

    Edit

  11. Remove the heat sink from the laptop. When reassembling your computer, follow our thermal paste application guide to reapply the thermal paste.
    Edit

  12. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

    Edit

  13. Peel the iSight camera cable off the fan housing to fold it out of the way. Peel the iSight camera cable off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.

    • Peel the iSight camera cable off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.

    Edit

  14. Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector. Carefully pull the fan cable straight out of its socket. Carefully pull the fan cable straight out of its socket.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector.

    • Carefully pull the fan cable straight out of its socket.

    Edit

  15. Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws

    Edit

  16. Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case. Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case. Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case.

    • Lift the end of the fan closest to the display hinge and remove the fan from the upper case.

    Edit

  17. Insert the tip of a spudger under each of the antenna cables near their connectors and pry up to disconnect them from the AirPort board. The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly: Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.

    • Insert the tip of a spudger under each of the antenna cables near their connectors and pry up to disconnect them from the AirPort board.

    • The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly:

    • Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.

    • The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.

    • The remaining cable has no sleeve, and connects in the last empty socket, next to the fan.

    Edit

  18. Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable bracket. Remove the I/O board cable bracket.

    • Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable bracket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable bracket.

    Edit

  19. Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the I/O board. Be careful to only pry up on the cable connector, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your I/O board. Push the I/O board cable up to bend it out of the way.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the I/O board.

    • Be careful to only pry up on the cable connector, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your I/O board.

    • Push the I/O board cable up to bend it out of the way.

    Edit

  20. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

    Edit

  21. Remove the following screws securing the I/O board to the upper case:

    • Remove the following screws securing the I/O board to the upper case:

    • One 3.5 mm T8 Torx standoff screw

    • One 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    Edit

  22. Lift the I/O board cable end of the I/O board and pull toward the logic board to free the ports from the upper case. Remove the I/O board. Remove the I/O board.

    • Lift the I/O board cable end of the I/O board and pull toward the logic board to free the ports from the upper case.

    • Remove the I/O board.

    Edit

  23. Remove the single 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort board to the I/O board.

    • Remove the single 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort board to the I/O board.

    Edit

  24. Lift the free end of the AirPort board up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the I/O board. Lift the free end of the AirPort board up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the I/O board. Lift the free end of the AirPort board up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Lift the free end of the AirPort board up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the I/O board.

    Edit
Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

14 other people completed this guide.

Author

with 4 other contributors

Sam Goldheart

Member since: 10/18/2012

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4 Comments

very good instructions—easily followed —-thank you so much for this !!!!!

Matthew Beyer - Reply

Thank you very much Sam Goldheart! Following your impeccable instruction and armed with Ifixit instruments, I managed to replace the logic board of my MacBook pro without an issue.

Viktor Simeonov - Reply

Greetings folks, (I have heard of something stupid, but would give it a try.)

Question where is the HDMI Chip on this board located? I have heard from Heise comments that, when you desolder this chip, theoretically, your MacBook Pro retina 2014 mid 13”/Late2013 13” which was bricked due to the Big Sur Upgrade will functioning again.

I would test it in a few months, if there is no other solution besides a replacement board.

(source https://www.heise.de/forum/heise-online/... )

Tommy - Reply

Hi, thank you very much for the guides, great helps! So, I’ve just finished swapping what I thought was a faulty IO board and cable out, and it seems like that may have not been the problem as still none of my outputs work on the right side; HDMI, USB, or SD. What do you think could be the potential cause of the problem, if it wasn’t the IO board as I had originally thought? TIA

RickyBobby - Reply

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