Introduction

Use this guide to replace the Retina display, which includes the display glass and iSight camera assembly.

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm Pentalobe screws

For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

Carlos - Reply

Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

Fredrik -

Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

Alex Birkett - Reply

Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

addvariety -

the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

Edison - Reply

I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

marketing - Reply

Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
  • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

  • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

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The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
  • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

  • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

wrbandllm - Reply

This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

addvariety - Reply

If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
  • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

jramsey21 - Reply

I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

salvatorebarbera -

Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

andrehedegaard -

Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

Steve - Reply

Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

Vadim Gribanov -

When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

Ethan Tarquin - Reply

If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

Parth Gudhka - Reply

Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.
  • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

sebasgaes - Reply

I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

LaymanLab - Reply

That’s a great idea!

David Lilliebridge - Reply

Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits
Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into the fan duct slots. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into the fan duct slots. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.
  • Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink.

  • The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into the fan duct slots. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.

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Insert the tip of a spudger under each of the antenna cables near their connectors and pry up to disconnect them from the AirPort board. The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly: Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.
  • Insert the tip of a spudger under each of the antenna cables near their connectors and pry up to disconnect them from the AirPort board.

  • The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly:

    • Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.

    • The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.

    • The remaining cable has no sleeve, and connects in the last empty socket, next to the fan.

I struggled with reconnecting these, and in the process accidentally ripped the connector away from the wire. Is there anything I can do to reattached it?

Vanessa schroll - Reply

This is most difficult and time consuming portion of this entire procedure. Make sure to lift the connectors straight up - not to damage them. The reconnection of the contacts may take several tries. USE CARE AND BE PATIENT! You will eventually get them to connect.

Darius - Reply

does anyone have advice on what is the best tool to use for reconnecting? this is definitely the hardest step to reassembly

M N - Reply

When reassembling, I used tweezers to line them up and the spudger to push them down.

Joshua Johnson - Reply

thank you Joshua, this helped me get them. they do take a bit of patience but it’s worth taking your time.

Kevin Lynch -

everything else was easy... I still haven't managed to figure this step out... good luck in your repair

M N - Reply

I got it! line the wire up; push the top part of the metal and give it firm pressure; they should snap in and connect

M N - Reply

You'll get 'em in. Work gently. Make sure they're exactly over top the bottom pins. Press down with a flat smudger. It took me a lot of gentle work to get them in.

Kent - Reply

I saw the sleeves on these.. and when looking at the replacement display saw they matched exactly and took the chance it was intentional. The only thing that got me.. was the bottom panel screws.. didn't know there were 3 types.. (should have known though, I mean right?! LOL Apple (rolls eyes) They could do like Samsung and use one screw for everything.. but oh no.. there is some OCD engineer that just likes SCREWING with people!

Tim - Reply

Pro Tip: When reassembling, do not screw on the metal tab attached to these connectors (part of step 15) until after you have all 3 connected. This gives you uninhibited range of motion for the 3 wires. Go slow as other commenters have said. Start with the shortest wire first. Once all 3 are connected, screw on the metal tab with those 2 screws. Finally double check that all 3 are still connected.

D B - Reply

Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

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Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing. Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing.
  • Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing.

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Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. During reinstallation, be sure to fully reseat the display connector tab. During reinstallation, be sure to fully reseat the display connector tab.
  • Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • During reinstallation, be sure to fully reseat the display connector tab.

This is pulled straight out to the side of the Macbook, not up.

nmackaron - Reply

Thanks for adding this comment !

jrbhome - Reply

Please use a nylon black stick to lift the lock bar up and push the connection apart reason being is the lock bar should not be pulled on and by pulling on it like shown may cause damage to the MLB/DISPLAY connection and then you’re into not just a display repair but a MLB on top of it!!!

Dutchie - Reply

Remove the rubber hinge covers from the right and left display hinges. Remove the rubber hinge covers from the right and left display hinges. Remove the rubber hinge covers from the right and left display hinges.
  • Remove the rubber hinge covers from the right and left display hinges.

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Remove the two 4.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge brackets on either side of the Macbook. Remove the two 4.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge brackets on either side of the Macbook.
  • Remove the two 4.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge brackets on either side of the Macbook.

I found these to be very tight and wasnt able to move them with the ifixt screwdriver kit, i had to get a t-handle torx 9 bit to move them

harveyhalfpint - Reply

Yes they were tight but I managed to shift them with the iFixit screwdriver set

Steven Fillingham - Reply

This is 1 screw on each side (not 2 on each side). They are circled in red.

nmackaron - Reply

The T5 in the set I bought from LaptopScreen.com was too big and started to strip these screws. Got an Ace Hardware brand one instead and it worked great.

Brian Hultin - Reply

Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges. During reassembly, the vertical portion of the bracket should be in line with the aluminum rail in the center of the Macbook. During reassembly, the vertical portion of the bracket should be in line with the aluminum rail in the center of the Macbook.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges.

  • During reassembly, the vertical portion of the bracket should be in line with the aluminum rail in the center of the Macbook.

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Remove the four outer 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case. Some models may use T9 Torx screws rather than T8.
  • Remove the four outer 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case.

    • Some models may use T9 Torx screws rather than T8.

Does these three screws are the same size? Can i mix use these screws during the installing process?

Michael Kwok - Reply

Open the MacBook Pro a little wider than 90 degrees, and place it on end on the table, as shown. While holding the display with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.
  • Open the MacBook Pro a little wider than 90 degrees, and place it on end on the table, as shown.

  • While holding the display with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.

  • Be sure the display and upper case are balanced and will not fall, potentially damaging each component.

  • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

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Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly clockwise, toward the top of the display, so the display brackets clear the edge of the upper case. Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case. Pull the display away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.
  • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly clockwise, toward the top of the display, so the display brackets clear the edge of the upper case.

  • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

  • Pull the display away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

When replacing the display assembly with a new one, the new hinges may be very hard to move into the 90 degree position. We found it helpful to loop a paperclip into the screw hole of the hinge to facilitate pulling open the hinge.

Eric - Reply

Yes also found the hinges to be extremely tight, could not move them with from their initial position with fingers, ended up using a pair of pliers to rotate them enough to get fingers under them

Steven Fillingham - Reply

Are there any cheaper replacement screens? If so I need to know. My parents still haven't found out and I don't make a ton of money...

Haley Hildreth - Reply

The paper clip is a great tip. I also used the spudger flat end under the hinge and the metal side of the case as leverage to push it up.

D B - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

85 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

Member since: 10/18/2012

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27 Comments

Dear Ifixit. I just order a display from a mid2014 macbook 13 inch retina, for a friend of mine. Guys congrats. nice support and custumer services. hassle free. Thanks. These is why companies grow huge. Keep it up. I will try to put another other during the week. Thank for everything. I will post my experience with the product as soon is here.!!!!!! Go Ifixit!!!!

Carlos De Bernard - Reply

Shipping to Sweden was super fast. The display assembly was in perfect condition and I am typing this on my repaired MacBook Pro! Whoohoo, thanks ifixit!

conradchristensen - Reply

Thanks for the easy to follow guide! Worked perfectly on my Early 2015 MacBook Pro! Saved me so much money.

strauchler - Reply

sorry your macbook pro is ealy 2015? I run the screen of 2014?

teofilodavid -

Great service, great list of tools required, great advice.

I completed this repair in an hour with the step by step guide. I'm a fairly mechanical guy who usually fixes his own appliances and automobiles, so this seemed simple enough up front. The guide made the entire repair straightforward and without any gaps or questions along the way.

bcarlb7 - Reply

For an unknown reason, a small crack appeared in the bottom right corner on my macbook screen. At first colorful lines started showing up but eventually turned into a black band two inches high across the bottom and on the left side a vertical band cutting off an inch reducing my screen from a 13" to a 10.5". I chose to replace the lid assembly after research because it was the simplest, least risky, and most cost effective, even including purchasing the ifixit toolkit. And now I have the tools to fix more stuff.

This guide was very easy to follow forward through disassembly and back through the assembly. Thank you for additional notes for assembly. The pictures and directions made this very easy to execute and prevent causing more damage.

Thank you,

Bryan McIntyre - Reply

Ordered a screen and tools, received them in the Netherlands in only 2 days. Excellent!

Completed this repair, within 50 mins. Guide was very clear. Battery did not need removal. Two minor issues... despite buying the more expensive A quality screen, there is visible and drop damage on the corner of the outside cover.

Secondly, one of the WiFi antenna wires had been removed slightly uncarefully, meaning that it required some finessing before it could be fitted to the WiFi board antenna connector.

Peter van Es - Reply

Thanks for the comment Peter! We have passed your comment along to the iFixit Customer Support Team. An iFixit representative will be reaching out to you shortly regarding the issue. If you need to contact our support team in the future, you may reach them here: help.ifixit.com

Christopher Fernandes -

Hi, I just bought a used MacBook Pro on eBay, which is in perfect condition apart from 3 small chips in the display, which considering that the machines main use is photography, they can make pixel level image adjustments difficult.

I was looking into getting the used part from iFixit and am a bit confused. With the cable in the iSight camera which is glued to the fan, would there be replacement adhesive on the 'A grade' used part?

Thanks!

Henry Alekna - Reply

With my "A-stock" display there was no adhesive on the camera cable. It wasn't a problem though, because there was some slight adhesive left on the fan shroud from the original cable I pulled off. Doesn't seem to get in the way of anything either way, just lets Apple keep things tidy.

Brandon Goranson -

Thanks Brandon, I will keep that in mind when I do the repair. Thanks for mentioning that you had scratches on an A stock part, from what I have read recently, it further supports my decision to look elsewhere for the part as the postage from America to Australia isn't cheap.

Henry Alekna -

Hi Henry,

I've read your comments and I'd like to ask you if you are considering selling the screen you'll take out of the computer?

Kalman Benics -

Hi Kalman,

Probably best not to, my one actually got knocked against the seat in front of me on a flight a few days back, and it now occasionally gets parallel lines running down the screen, which is one of the first warning signs of failure. I probably won't have the time to replace it until next month anyway, so hopefully it holds out until then.

Henry Alekna -

Guide was great, fixing my display was easy.

That said, the screws in steps 15 and 16 were T9 for me, not T8. Not great if someone buys just the tools they need, and not a kit like I did. (Kit's fantastically amazing, by the way!)

Main bummer: bought an "A-stock" display from iFixit and it has a 5 inch scratch on the back. Still works but I would have expected that to be B-stock.

Brandon Goranson - Reply

Hi Brandon - would you please share what exactly the model of your MBP was? I'm preparing to open mine, and wondering if I should prepare a T9 instead of T8.

kwaya -

MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Mid 2014)

I don't know if yours would be the same but one thing to consider is if you don't plan on keeping the screwdriver/bit then maybe go with the T8 to be safe. It will turn the T9 screw, just not a perfect fit. I don't think it would strip it so long as you're careful. It's a pretty solid screw and torx aren't prone to stripping.

Brandon Goranson -

I followed all the steps to replace my MacBook display, but after installing the new display, when I turn on my mac the screen is all black and won't show anything. The MacBook makes the turning on sound but nothing shows. I connected an hdmi from my tv to the Mac to make sure it wasn't anything that got messed up in the process. Every came up on the tv perfectly but nothing on the screen. Could it be a cable that I didn't connect properly or is it the display that came with problem?

I purchased the screen on eBay and followed the instructions written here.

Algenis Feliz - Reply

I would definitely crack it back open and check the connectors. Could be the display unit but it's worth checking for sure. Good luck.

Brandon Goranson -

I did, it ended up being the display that came damaged. I already returned it and ordered a new one from ifixit, just waiting for it to get in the mail.

Thanks

Algenis Feliz -

Is this P/N: 661-8153? Came from the Apple Service Center with a humongous quoted repair price. I'm looking at replacing it myself. Thanks.

goodspeed1 - Reply

I don't know the Apple part number unfortunately, but you'll find the correct part linked at the top of the guide.

Jeff Suovanen -

I dropped and damaged the lower right corner of the display of my mid 2014 iBook pro 13 inch.The damage resulted in a malfunctioning display. I ordered the A-stock replacement and used overnight shipping. The display was packed well and arrived on time and as described, in perfect condition. I found the repair guide to be comprehensive and easy to follow. I appreciate the wonderful guides you provide and the excellent part service. Besides saving some money, I was able to get up and running within 24hrs and have the fun and satisfaction of repairing it myself!

kskinner - Reply

Great guide had it done in 16 minutes.

John Pastor Jr - Reply

Thank you ifixit. Just replaced the screen on my 14 year old granddaughters MacBook Pro Retina. She is going to be so happy since the screen has been cracked since November of 2016. Your instructions were very easy to follow and makes me look like a genius. (:

James Brichta - Reply

Sam, congrats to these instructions ! You could not have done any better. Feels like magic - its so easy. And its really fun to repair things

following your excellent steps!! Thank you very much !

Oberschrauber - Reply

Absolutely good and informative instructions.

One add-on: screws in Step 15 and 16 may be very tight to remove, need a T8 Torx screw with a large handle, or some gripping treatment to avoid slippery.

Xun - Reply

My display was cracked but still worked. I followed these instructions to replace it and it was very simple, however the screen did not turn on. I double checked the connections and it still would not display. I thought maybe I just purchased a bad display. I reattached my old display and it will no longer turn on. Any ideas?

Gonzo Neko (KitiClub) - Reply

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