Introduction

Use this guide to remove or replace the solid state drive, SSD, in your MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2013.

Image 1/1: Two 2.3 mm Pentalobe screws
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm Pentalobe screws

For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

Carlos - Reply

Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

hello -

Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

Alex Birkett - Reply

Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

addvariety -

the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

Edison - Reply

I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

marketing - Reply

Image 1/1: Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.
  • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

  • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

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Image 1/2: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips. Image 2/2: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
  • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

  • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

wrbandllm - Reply

This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

addvariety - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

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Image 1/2: Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, '''not''' the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board. Image 2/2: Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, '''not''' the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

jramsey21 - Reply

I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

salvatorebarbera -

Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

andrehedegaard -

Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

Steve - Reply

Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

Vadim Gribanov -

When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

Ethan Tarquin - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

sebasgaes - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Only lift the end of the SSD enough to allow you to pull it out—about 1/4". Image 2/3: Only lift the end of the SSD enough to allow you to pull it out—about 1/4". Image 3/3: Only lift the end of the SSD enough to allow you to pull it out—about 1/4".
  • Lift the free end of the SSD up slightly and pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Only lift the end of the SSD enough to allow you to pull it out—about 1/4".

Transcend 960GB JetDrive 720 SATAIII 6Gb/s Solid State Drive Upgrade Kit for MacBook Pro 13" with Retina Display, Late 2012 - Early 2013 (TS960GJDM720) - Is this compatible with the Macbook Pro 13" Retina - Mid 2014?

Jess - Reply

Según el fabricante no, me puse en contacto con ellos y dicen que estan en desarrollo. Yo ya pregunte en este foro por que otro unidad de ssd cambio la original y nadie responde...

According to the manufacturer no, I got in touch with them and say they are developing . I already ask at this forum by another unit ssd change the original and nobody answers ..

Antonio -

Manufacturers that don't say it's compatible, just haven't tested it. You just have to pay special attention to the notch(es) on the connector. I had a 512 GB SSD lying around, but it had two notches at 1/3 and 2/3 (M.2 B & M notches) instead of the MacBook's notch that's somewhat in the middle and is NOT a standard of the M.2 format.

addvariety -

No. But OWC now sells a higher capacity SSD for the 2015 MBP's

robert Seith - Reply

Great guide!

Daniel - Reply

Why do I need to disconnect the battery?

David DelMonte - Reply

To prevent damage on motherboard while connecting/disconnecting SSD.

Fedor Zhuromsky -

What are your recommendations for transferring the data to the replacement flash drive?

ari - Reply

Before changing hard drive, back up data via Time Machine. After hard drive replacement, restore Time Machine backup onto new hard drive.

William -

no other brand sad, for MacBook RD mid 2014?

iCalfixit - Reply

Can i swap my macbook pro 13" (late 2013) 128gb ssd with macbook air 13" 512gb ssd...? Would it work like that or they don't work with this combination...?

VVK - Reply

Can i use 1T ssd in macbook Retina Mf840 ??? change 256 to 512 or 1T :/

Pedram BehzadiFar - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

51 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

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9 Comments

So… can I just buy the new PCIe SSDs and use it in the 2013 rMBP? I'm very confused about these PCIe SSDs.

Timothy Brown - Reply

Anyone know where I can buy PCIe SSD for Late MB Pro Retina 13"? I've checked Google, did not find a replacement for purchase.

Any information would greatly be appreciated.

Bobby - Reply

There is a link in this article for buying one from ifixit: MacBook Pro 13" and 15" Retina (Late 2013/Mid 2014) SSD. They are not cheap, but they are cheaper than a new MBpro

Kostas Anagnostakis -

My retina 15" got the logic board damage and fix it is just stupid. Now in the mean time the new ones come up next quarter, I'm using my macbook pro 2011. Now, because the 2011 is no Retina, SSD and all the other good stuff in it (crying in silence) I did some research to make the 2011 better and I found out I can upgrade to 16 ram and a SSD. Now I check and is not that expensive at least for a SSD 128. BUT this morning it hit me, and I want to ask and make research about this idea. Guys I was wondering, can I take the SSD from my Retina that is actually SSD 256 and put it in my 2011? And save in the SSD? I mean, if possible of curse, if not I would go to buy it how I plan in the first place. Anyway guys any suggestions, ideas or advice are all welcome. I want to know whats best to improve the 2011 meanwhile the new ones get the upgrade. Thanks in advance! :)

tane883 - Reply

I have macbook pro late 2013 model...my 256gb ssd crahed ..can i upgrade or downgrade my ssd...if so which company's ssd is compatible with my mac because i have no idea what to do..

zubi zubair - Reply

Can I use an Intel SSD 540s SSD M.2? Intel says it doesn't support NVMe. Does it need to or would that just add extra performance?

3PL - Reply

Can you also please put a link how to reinstall mac os after installing a new hardrive? thanks

Joseph Grigoletti - Reply

Can i swap my macbook pro 13" (late 2013) 128gb ssd with macbook air 13" 512gb ssd...? Would it work like that or they don't work with this combination...?

VVK - Reply

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