Introduction

Use this guide to replace the Retina display, display glass, and iSight camera assembly.

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm Pentalobe screws

For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

Carlos - Reply

Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

Fredrik -

Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

Alex Birkett - Reply

Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

addvariety -

the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

Edison - Reply

I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

marketing - Reply

Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
  • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

  • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

Add Comment

The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
  • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

  • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

wrbandllm - Reply

This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

addvariety - Reply

If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
  • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

Add Comment

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

jramsey21 - Reply

I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

salvatorebarbera -

Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

andrehedegaard -

Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

Steve - Reply

Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

Vadim Gribanov -

When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

Ethan Tarquin - Reply

If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

Parth Gudhka - Reply

Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.
  • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

sebasgaes - Reply

I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

LaymanLab - Reply

Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into the fan duct slots. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct. The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into the fan duct slots. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.
  • Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink.

  • The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into the fan duct slots. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.

Add Comment

Insert the tip of a spudger under each of the antenna cables near their connectors and pry up to disconnect them from the AirPort board. The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly: Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.
  • Insert the tip of a spudger under each of the antenna cables near their connectors and pry up to disconnect them from the AirPort board.

  • The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly:

    • Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.

    • The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.

    • The remaining cable has no sleeve, and connects in the last empty socket, next to the fan.

I struggled with reconnecting these, and in the process accidentally ripped the connector away from the wire. Is there anything I can do to reattached it?

Vanessa schroll - Reply

This is most difficult and time consuming portion of this entire procedure. Make sure to lift the connectors straight up - not to damage them. The reconnection of the contacts may take several tries. USE CARE AND BE PATIENT! You will eventually get them to connect.

Darius - Reply

does anyone have advice on what is the best tool to use for reconnecting? this is definitely the hardest step to reassembly

M N - Reply

When reassembling, I used tweezers to line them up and the spudger to push them down.

Joshua Johnson - Reply

everything else was easy... I still haven't managed to figure this step out... good luck in your repair

M N - Reply

I got it! line the wire up; push the top part of the metal and give it firm pressure; they should snap in and connect

M N - Reply

You'll get 'em in. Work gently. Make sure they're exactly over top the bottom pins. Press down with a flat smudger. It took me a lot of gentle work to get them in.

Kent - Reply

I saw the sleeves on these.. and when looking at the replacement display saw they matched exactly and took the chance it was intentional. The only thing that got me.. was the bottom panel screws.. didn't know there were 3 types.. (should have known though, I mean right?! LOL Apple (rolls eyes) They could do like Samsung and use one screw for everything.. but oh no.. there is some OCD engineer that just likes SCREWING with people!

Tim - Reply

Pro Tip: When reassembling, do not screw on the metal tab attached to these connectors (part of step 15) until after you have all 3 connected. This gives you uninhibited range of motion for the 3 wires. Go slow as other commenters have said. Start with the shortest wire first. Once all 3 are connected, screw on the metal tab with those 2 screws. Finally double check that all 3 are still connected.

D B - Reply

Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

Add Comment

Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing. Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing.
  • Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing.

Add Comment

Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. During reinstallation, be sure to fully reseat the display connector tab. During reinstallation, be sure to fully reseat the display connector tab.
  • Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • During reinstallation, be sure to fully reseat the display connector tab.

This is pulled straight out to the side of the Macbook, not up.

nmackaron - Reply

Thanks for adding this comment !

jrbhome - Reply

Please use a nylon black stick to lift the lock bar up and push the connection apart reason being is the lock bar should not be pulled on and by pulling on it like shown may cause damage to the MLB/DISPLAY connection and then you’re into not just a display repair but a MLB on top of it!!!

Dutchie - Reply

Remove the rubber hinge covers from the right and left display hinges. Remove the rubber hinge covers from the right and left display hinges. Remove the rubber hinge covers from the right and left display hinges.
  • Remove the rubber hinge covers from the right and left display hinges.

Add Comment

Remove the two 4.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge brackets on either side of the Macbook. Remove the two 4.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge brackets on either side of the Macbook.
  • Remove the two 4.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the aluminum hinge brackets on either side of the Macbook.

I found these to be very tight and wasnt able to move them with the ifixt screwdriver kit, i had to get a t-handle torx 9 bit to move them

harveyhalfpint - Reply

Yes they were tight but I managed to shift them with the iFixit screwdriver set

Steven Fillingham - Reply

This is 1 screw on each side (not 2 on each side). They are circled in red.

nmackaron - Reply

The T5 in the set I bought from LaptopScreen.com was too big and started to strip these screws. Got an Ace Hardware brand one instead and it worked great.

Brian Hultin - Reply

Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges. During reassembly, the vertical portion of the bracket should be in line with the aluminum rail in the center of the Macbook. During reassembly, the vertical portion of the bracket should be in line with the aluminum rail in the center of the Macbook.
  • Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges.

  • During reassembly, the vertical portion of the bracket should be in line with the aluminum rail in the center of the Macbook.

Add Comment

Remove the four outer 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case. Some models may use T9 Torx screws rather than T8.
  • Remove the four outer 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case.

    • Some models may use T9 Torx screws rather than T8.

Does these three screws are the same size? Can i mix use these screws during the installing process?

Michael Kwok - Reply

Open the MacBook Pro a little wider than 90 degrees, and place it on end on the table, as shown. While holding the display with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.
  • Open the MacBook Pro a little wider than 90 degrees, and place it on end on the table, as shown.

  • While holding the display with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the upper display bracket.

  • Be sure the display and upper case are balanced and will not fall, potentially damaging each component.

  • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

Add Comment

Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly clockwise, toward the top of the display, so the display brackets clear the edge of the upper case. Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case. Pull the display away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.
  • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly clockwise, toward the top of the display, so the display brackets clear the edge of the upper case.

  • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

  • Pull the display away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

When replacing the display assembly with a new one, the new hinges may be very hard to move into the 90 degree position. We found it helpful to loop a paperclip into the screw hole of the hinge to facilitate pulling open the hinge.

Eric - Reply

Yes also found the hinges to be extremely tight, could not move them with from their initial position with fingers, ended up using a pair of pliers to rotate them enough to get fingers under them

Steven Fillingham - Reply

Are there any cheaper replacement screens? If so I need to know. My parents still haven't found out and I don't make a ton of money...

Haley Hildreth - Reply

The paper clip is a great tip. I also used the spudger flat end under the hinge and the metal side of the case as leverage to push it up.

D B - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

96 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

Member since: 10/18/2012

282,881 Reputation

1,303 Guides authored

Team

iFixit Member of iFixit

Community

127 Members

6,642 Guides authored

21 Comments

I've been browsing guides to this model and I don't get how in this one on Youtube the laptop looks completely different, although it also claims to be A1502. Either one of them is a different model or I'm really missing something?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lL4gpfcb...

Marina Gorobevskaya - Reply

Unfortunately the A1502 number isn't an exclusive model number, several devices share it, the internal differences between them vary. The more telling number is the EMC number, which tends to me more exclusive to unique devices.

Sam Lionheart -

After a closer look they actually seem to be the same, I just got confused by the video being a lot less detailed than this walkthrough. I just replaced the screen of my macbook following this guide (yay!) without any previous experience of fixing macbooks, though I must admit I assembled a few desktops at the dawn of the millennium. The only slight problem I encountered was that the main display cable wouldn't lie flat enough in that corner, it kept sticking out, and even after screwing the lid on the gap at that corner seems to be a tiny bit wider. But the laptop is working anyway.

Thank you Sam for posting this guide! It saved me a lot of time and money. Being in China I bought the display assembly on Taobao for $250US whereas the shop repair estimate that I got was around $400.

If anyone is still having doubts - you can do it!

Marina Gorobevskaya -

The guide is very helpful. I managed to replace my screen within 1 hour. I bought my screen from ifixit too! the product is genuine and in good condition although it says that it has been used before! Highly recommended!

henrycwc - Reply

Can you replace just the LCD without the clamshell bezel and cables?

rickcostel - Reply

Kind of. In most laptops the lcd assembly is a separate unit that can be replaced. In these the top case serves as the lcd assembly.

But you can replace just the lcd polarizer. It is much more difficult than replacing the whole display assembly, as the diffuser panel which is directly behind the polarizer is very fragile.

This video provides a guide on how you can do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOS-rjvn...

elec1cele -

I managed to replace the display assembly pretty smoothly and got a cool video out of it! For anyone interested in watching a 2-minute time-lapse version, you can watch it here: (https://youtu.be/BHhpoG-0_oI)

bexoro - Reply

Great guide. I was able to complete this in 45 mins with a 4 year old running around the table I was working on. Thanks for a thorough guide. Also bought the screen from ifixit and it looks great.

searnold - Reply

Excellent guide! Completed it in about 20 minutes and everything works now!

Vsevolod Kamnev - Reply

Great guide, easy to follow.

Replacement display from iFixit had the brackets folded down towards the screen, had to unfold them carefully with pliers.

Take note - the black hinge cover (the bulge on the display assembly) shifts left and right. Make sure to adjust it dead center when assembling. Also make sure to align display with bottom case perfectly before tightening down the bracket screws.

Leonid - Reply

good guide replaced my screen no major issues, reattaching the three small cables was the trickiest bit and definitely needed care.

nikolas hodges - Reply

To reinstall the new display, do you just follow the instructions backwards?

Tee - Reply

A great guide, I spent around an hour to complete removal and install of new display (from iFixit), its cheaper than getting Apple repaired and results in a great quality fix, my daughter is over the moon. I chose the B grade screen and its great, not sure what scratches they are referring to :)

Steven Fillingham - Reply

Followed this guide and mine turned out AMAZING. So happy I didn't spend the $500-$600 to have someone else fix it. Literally spent less than an hour to do it all. I would highly recommend buying the needed tools for it .

Shane Hennessy - Reply

Am I wrong or it is not possible to replace the front-glass only (without the LCD), on the A1502 Model ? (late 2013) ?

I cannot find the front-glass for this model on the internet... any idea where I can find it ?

Clement Bouchardeau - Reply

I need to replace the hinge connected to the display assembly, would that be possible?

Sokar599 - Reply

Brilliant guide as usual all done in half an hour. Worth noting that I could not adjust the brightness at first but a PRAM reset sorted that out nicely.

Thank you.

MattOckendon - Reply

Just did the same repair.. I am also having display brightness issues but already tried PRAM and SMC resets. Brightness works under Bootcamp but not macOS... any ideas? A third party utility I downloaded allows me to control brightness but I really should be able to use the brightness adjustment keys. Lastly, the 1440x900 display resolution option is gone as well. Stuck with 1024x600 or 1280x800 (default but highest resolution option I have).

Santiago Moreno -

Step 15, Does these three screws are the same size? Can i mix use these screws during the installing process?

Michael Kwok - Reply

Thanks for the very detailed guide. Replacing the screen worked like a charm! But I have a problem: My screen does not turn on. I can hear the start-up sound but the display only shows a black light. By connecting an external screen via HDMI and closing the lid I can boot normally. I tried PRAM and SMC reset, but neither helped. I switched back to the old/half broken screen and it turned on normally. Any idea what I could do next?

Sonopha - Reply

Hi, it’s me again. I managed to make it work. It seems that one of the connectors were not connected in the right way. I did not do anything different but switched once back to the old screen and then to the new one again, and it is working. I suspect the one from step 11. I read in other forums that the display connector can be a problem. Thanks for this wonderful guide!

Sonopha -

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 92

Past 7 Days: 618

Past 30 Days: 2,818

All Time: 73,811